2nd time scope has come loose on my ruger american 450 bushmaster...need help!

[Tripplebeards]

I have 2 RUM's that have never came loose but my 450BM is being a pain.I thought it was the warne rings so I bought leupolds and had a smith professionaly install them with rosin. The optic shifted back wards after about 12 rounds. I checked my action screws and scope mount and rings. All seemed extremely tight. Kept shooting and it moved some more. I used tge same load today. 300 grain lee with the average muzzel velocity around 2, 075fps. So I'm not over killing my rifle as far as I'm concerned. So, rosin didn't work...what's my next step? Do I dare glue my optic to my rings? I'm getting overly frustrated abd running out of ideas.

[dverna]

Maybe try a thin rubber sheet between the rings and scope? You could glue the rubber onto the rings but even that may not be necessary. It seems really strange the scope would move with two different sets of rings!

[ShooterAZ]

Try some rubber cement. I have used it before with good results.

[country gent]

This isn't all that unusual with the AR series rifle, the double recoil bump back and then the forward creates a different harmonics pattern to deal with. The rifle recoils when fired the rifle bumps again when the bolt carrier hits the stop then again when it locks up going forward. The warne rings should have been more than adequate for this. Lapping rings to a true engagement of 1005 on the scope may improve gripping. Some use rosin a light coat on cleaned degreased rings to aid grip. I have heard of blue locktite used also.
Do the rings appear to have been lapped into alignment? If not I would pick up foot of 1" brass round stock and some fine 320 grit lapping compound and lap the rings in to alignment when mounted on the rail. This usually goes pretty quick by hand and gives good gripping surfaces. Work rod in a sliding radial motion so lines overlap. Then a light coat of rosin and tighten it up.

If you have access to the dry powder lapping compounds 400-600 grit will provide excellent grip but may mar scope finish aligning and or if it slips again. The anodizing used on rings can be hard (60-70 rc) and slippery. roughing it up a little with lapping ir if needed for alignment removing it may help.

[pietro]

Lapping rings to a true engagement of 1005 on the scope may improve gripping.

Some use rosin a light coat on cleaned degreased rings to aid grip.




+1 - TCR = "True", "clean" & rosin.


.

[725]

Lap it, lock-tight it, and add a third ring or even a fourth if room permits.

[Tripplebeards]

This isn't all that unusual with the AR series rifle, the double recoil bump back and then the forward creates a different harmonics pattern to deal with. The rifle recoils when fired the rifle bumps again when the bolt carrier hits the stop then again when it locks up going forward. The warne rings should have been more than adequate for this. Lapping rings to a true engagement of 1005 on the scope may improve gripping. Some use rosin a light coat on cleaned degreased rings to aid grip. I have heard of blue locktite used also.
Do the rings appear to have been lapped into alignment? If not I would pick up foot of 1" brass round stock and some fine 320 grit lapping compound and lap the rings in to alignment when mounted on the rail. This usually goes pretty quick by hand and gives good gripping surfaces. Work rod in a sliding radial motion so lines overlap. Then a light coat of rosin and tighten it up.

If you have access to the dry powder lapping compounds 400-600 grit will provide excellent grip but may mar scope finish aligning and or if it slips again. The anodizing used on rings can be hard (60-70 rc) and slippery. roughing it up a little with lapping ir if needed for alignment removing it may help.


It’s not an AR...it’s a Ruger American as stated in my first post. If your not aware of what that is, it’s a bolt action rifle. Not trying to be a smart Alec, just getting frustrated.

I did lap the rings the first time around and also used rosin...and blue lock tite on the screws but not on the rings itself...all of which didn’t help. I have over 70 firearms and have optics on just about all of which I mounted myself. All the rings have been lapped, tourqued, and lock tighten. This isn’t my first rodeo. There is something more going on with this stubborn rifle than meets the eye. Like I’ve said I have mounted rings and optics on my 300 and 375 RUMs that stay put and are rock solid. I’m hoping someone has crossed this bridge with an extremely stubborn recoiling rifle and has thought outside the box to keep it from slipping. All the proper measures that work do not on this rifle. Like I said I even had a gunsmith mount the second optic with Leupold rings. I don’t blame the smith or myself the first time around. Everything was done bythe book the first two times around and it still comes loose. I might have to try rubber cement or painting the inside of my rings with blue lock tite if no other creative ideas surface. I’d love to lock tite it in place.lol I just don’t want to wreck my optics and rings in the process.

I even cleaned off my optic tube,screws and screw holes with a Q tip and rubbing alcoholic/bore scrub to remove any oils. This is the 2nd optic as well. When It came loose the first time the front bell hit the scope ring and wrecked it. I’m using a Nikon pro staff 5. It always feels like to me that there is a smother,slick finish on them than my Leupold optics so I make sure to wipe the tube down with rubbing alcohol before mounting. I think there is just too much recoil and I’m shooting it in my Caldwell lead sled so it coming to an abrupt hault. I shoot my RUMs in the sled and they obviously recoil more and the scopes don’t slide loose.

[MTyotehunter]

ive had gunsmiths tell me to use elmers rubber cement, easy to clean up if you ever pull the scope off.

[Tripplebeards]

Just took it apart. The factory picatinny rail is held on by four screws. The one closest to the bolt was finger loose! They are getting lock tited as we speak. I called al’s gun shop in Michigan who came up with this chambering in the Ruger American and said the RAR in 450BM are notorious for that screw coming loose and having the issues I’ve had. Hard to believe when the other three were rock solid tight.

[jcren]

I have used green penetrating loctite on 22 groved recievers that wouldnt stay put. Used to build commercial bandsaws and we used it extensively on head and band track adjustment bolts after they were dialed in. Will crawl between tightened surfaces and bond, but allows easy removal if needed.

[popper]

I'm surprised that nobody can provide us with the adhesive they use on packaging, to put on scope rings. That stuff works even on plastic without dissolving anything. I tried the blue locktite on the rings but it doesn't work on hard anodized.

[Ateam]

I have used green penetrating loctite on 22 groved recievers that wouldnt stay put. Used to build commercial bandsaws and we used it extensively on head and band track adjustment bolts after they were dialed in. Will crawl between tightened surfaces and bond, but allows easy removal if needed.

I have used this stuff to sleeve barrels, put on sights, etc. Be careful the removal of the part may require a rubber mallet and or heat, its serious ****.

[country gent]

You might check the recoil lugs bedding to the stock a loose fit here can also affect harmonic and screws loosening.

[Texas by God]

I had a Nikon 4x that slipped in Redfield rings on a .450 Marlin. When I switched to a K4 Weaver it never happened again. Perhaps steel on steel made the difference. The Nikon 4x went on an AR15 in cheap lined alloy rings and is problem free there.
Ross Seyfried recommended 3M Electrical Sealant( known as liquid tape) to prevent scope-in ring slippage. I used it on a .300 Wby and an 8mm Rem mag. and it worked. A little dab will do you and be careful with the sticky, messy stuff.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Tripplebeards]

Just put it all back together and never noticed that the whole trigger assembly rattles loosely like a baby rattle when the bolt Is out if it. When the bolt is back in place, cycled, and cocked it’s pretty tight. I called Ruger and they sent me an RMA and a call tag to get back for inspection. I would assume it shouldn’t be loose. It’s like the holes are hogged out where the pins go through the trigger assembly that hold it in place.

[oldracer]

The one thing I noticed was no one mentioned or asked if the insides of the rings were concentric? I have seen gunsmiths who never check that especially if they are the one piece or block type as they figure factory machining will be perfect? If not done already I would use the two "points" in the Weaver scope mount kit to make sure the bored holes line up? The other possibility is to use an "anti recoil ring" like I have on a couple of my long range black powder rifles.
John

[Tripplebeards]

Heres what it looked like under the mount. The rear is where the screw was finger loose. I would assume it vibrated my trigger assembly and hogged out the holes as well. It’s hard to believe it can do this with the other three screws tight as tight. As much as I hate to do it I’m going to remove the scope and rings off it and it back to Ruger. I would assume they will replace the trigger assembly. I want them to measure the action width as well to make sure it didn’t swell or widen from shooting. I’m sure it didn’t but with my luck you never know. I will ask them the check the V lugs in the bedding as well to make sure are snug.

http://i.imgur.com/VdAga9i.jpg

[Tripplebeards]

It’s on its way back...I got a kick out it when I dropped it off at the carrier. The only question they asked is if my package had alcohol in it.lol

I might put a dab of acraglass on the bottom of the base to literally weld it in place to the top of my action when it comes back.

I found a few shooters on line that used GE silicone 2 on their scope rings with good success. They applied it and tightened the rings down and wiped off the excess. I would assume silicone can be removed from the rings and scope pretty easy if needing to remove the optic. It’s at least worth a try for $3.50 since Rosin isn’t working.

Here’s the link I read.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/scope-slipping-in-rings-what-to-do.42157/


I just remembered I have some 3M super 77 spray adhesive laying around I bet would work great as well. I used it to attach some loose seadoo decals. I would have to switch back to my Leupold PRW mounts being my Warne side mount rings are never going to let me adjust the scope back and forth once the halves are together around the optic.

[ipopum]

I have used double face tape inside scope rings . The old Weaver mount with 2 screws on it was famous for twisting resulting in the cross hair being out

of square . The tape usually did the job . It is easy to remove when no longer needed .

[samari46]

I've used the old style electrical friction tape the one with the rough texture. One of my wifes uncles loved the stuff as he did classic cars and that was the style of tape they used way back when. I once did 4 Browning semi auto rifles that a friends boss had bought as gifts for valued customers. Probably 5k or more and all with Leupold scopes. two were 339 win mags and don't remember what the other two were. Just one complete wrap and after alignment and using a bore sighter. He had the fun of shooting to complete sighting in. You'd think after dropping 5K on rifles and scopes the gunsmith working out of that store would have been happy to do it for free. Nope,$50 apeice to mount and bore sight. Frank

[Tripplebeards]

There’s not that much mark up in guns or optics. It’s like a gas station. No money in fuel so their hoping you come in for beer, soda, and candy bars. Or like going in for an oil change and getting talked into all your fluid flushes and an alignment. Gotta keep the lights on and employees paid.

[egg250]

Just took it apart. The factory picatinny rail is held on by four screws. The one closest to the bolt was finger loose! They are getting lock tited as we speak. I called al’s gun shop in Michigan who came up with this chambering in the Ruger American and said the RAR in 450BM are notorious for that screw coming loose and having the issues I’ve had. Hard to believe when the other three were rock solid tight.

I can see where that loose screw would lead to accuracy issues and, possibly, damaging your optics. Could you see where the scope was slipping in the ring mounts? Would you post a follow up as to repairing that loose screw solved the problem?

[Tripplebeards]

It’s sticks out like a sore thumb because of the Rosen I used. Like I said I even tightened down the ring screws after I noticed it at the range to the point I would have stripped or snapped them if I tourqued them any harder and the optic still continued to slide backwards. I might have pics in some of my old posts with the other optic that slid back and cut a huge ring in front bell and granaded the internals.


Here’s a pic of the front and rear with leupold PWR rings. You can clearly see the rosin dust and that it did not help hold it in place.


http://i.imgur.com/zwzsibp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/AyhPIxa.jpg


The more I look at the wear from the picatinny rail I have a feeling the only place it came in contact with on the receiver is were it wore off the bluing. The witness marks on the receiver is telling me it the only place it comes in contact with the picatinny rail. IMO it was barely contacting the receiver mating surface casing it to vibrate loose. Definitely needs bedding.

[Hickory]

3M makes a double stick tape (sticky on both sides) that has worked real well for me and can be removed with Goop.

[Tripplebeards]

When rifle comes back I’ll acraglass the base to the action, use blue lock tite on the screws in the base and scope rings, and spray 3M 77 super adhesive to the inside of the scope rings and let them dry for a few minutes before assembly. I’ll be shocked if it comes loose after doing this. I swear there is a Teflon type coating Nikon puts on it optics causing the slippage. They are the only optic I have had slide loose consistently on other firearms as well.

Here’s a pic of the front of the receiver where the picatinny rail wore off the bluing off the outside where it clamped to. I believe the whole picatinny rail was probably hovering above the mounting holes and just touching/ resting on the outside of the receiver. Not enough mating surface to keep it still.

http://i.imgur.com/eaPo0cQ.jpg

[cwlongshot]

I cannot tell you the number of rifles I have “fixed” bu simply removing the base, cleaning the wcrews and holes!! If I am able Ill also check the bases to the action by lapping them to the top of the receiver. Then ince everything is clean and dry RED LOC TITING the bases to the gun.

Warne steel rings are top shelf. Leupold PRW, are pretty good but not as good as the Warne product.

I have over 500 thru my own RARR and no problems using factory base and warne rings and a leupold VXII 2x7 scope.

Good luck!!

CW

[Tripplebeards]

I have red lock tite as well. Acraglass or red lock tite? Is one better than the other? I would assume acraglass since it will fill in the high areas. I’d rather use the warne rings but dont see how I’m going to get the optic to slide back and forth along with left to right to adjust it to my eye once I spray the 3M in the rings.

[egg250]

Seeing is believing. With all that vibration, I'm surprised the scope wasn't shaken apart. You could use a bedding compound on the rail. You could also lap the rail into the receiver. Is the rail aluminum or steel? There'd be a slight bit of touch up finishing on the metal. Also, check to ensure the rail mounting screws are not bottoming in the holes.

Thanks for the pics.

[Tripplebeards]

The first scope was...and wrecked. I’m going to bed the rail to the receiver when it comes back. I plan on calling Ruger when they get it to see if they have a rail that will mate better to the receiver so I don’t have such a variance. I’ve lapped scope rings many of times but never a rail to a receiver. How is it done? I would assume bedding/gluing it with acraglass is going to hold it rock solid and never move when the process is done and being literally welded in place with the acraglass gel is going to be a more solid fit anyways.

[egg250]

The first scope was...and wrecked. I’m going to bed the rail to the receiver when it comes back. I plan on calling Ruger when they get it to see if they have a rail that will mate better to the receiver so I don’t have such a variance. I’ve lapped scope rings many of times but never a rail to a receiver. How is it done? I would assume bedding/gluing it with acraglass is going to hold it rock solid and never move when the process is done and being literally welded in place with the acraglass gel is going to be a more solid fit anyways.

If the rail is aluminum, I wouldn't bother to lap it. Bed it with epoxy, Loctite or other bedding compound. If the rail is steel, put some lapping compound on the rail and mounting area of the receiver, and move back and forth. Only move about 1/4" so as to limit the area that will need a finish touch up. If the receiver is blued, lapping could be an idea. If parkerized or coated, I wouldn't bother, just bed it.

[Black Powder Bill]

When rifle comes back I’ll acraglass the base to the action, use blue lock tite on the screws in the base and scope rings, and spray 3M 77 super adhesive to the inside of the scope rings and let them dry for a few minutes before assembly. I’ll be shocked if it comes loose after doing this. I swear there is a Teflon type coating Nikon puts on it optics causing the slippage. They are the only optic I have had slide loose consistently on other firearms as well.

Here’s a pic of the front of the receiver where the picatinny rail wore off the bluing off the outside where it clamped to. I believe the whole picatinny rail was probably hovering above the mounting holes and just touching/ resting on the outside of the receiver. Not enough mating surface to keep it still.

http://i.imgur.com/eaPo0cQ.jpg

I take my bases including tang sight base and lay a piece of light wet dry,[pick a grit that looks good not to aggressive]; over the tang or barrel sand side up. Then take the base and slide it back & forth getting the shaped bottom area as close the curve of the barrel, receiver,tang as possible.
Thus creating a greater contact surface. Then everything gets a light coat of loctite to help keep moisture out just prior to screwing the base down. I let that dry for a day. Then I mount the scope.
If , yea usually the rigs need a bit of lapping as well. Clover make a good lapping compound. Or ask your dentist for some fine pumice grit. Mix it with some light oil or grease and lap gently with a rod of proper size.

If all else fails ad another ring to increase friction.

[cwlongshot]

Lock tite for threads. I always use RED on the bases, rarely even lock imtite my rings. No problems.

Last guns I had problems with where my Contenders. I literally sheared off the screws on my 14” 357 Herrett! Upped the screws to #8’s and THEY LOOSENED!! I REALLY THINK i didnt get the holes clean enough. And its. ERY IMPORTANT as oil will act like a release agent and DEFEAT the loctite.
I scuffed the bottom of the base and the top of the barrel and with new screws, accra glassed the base to the barrel AND red locktited it down!! No more issues.

Rubber Cement is simple and easy and most always works. BUT know you need to degrease parts!

Lastly, dot. Rush things! Give/Allow solid 24/48 hrs before use. Longer is BETTER!

I agree, its a problem gun/caliber. Invest in steel base to go with your steel rings.

Good luck!

CW

[CJR]

Tripplebeards,

I had a similar problem with a 375H&H Mag. My original steel scope mount was only a 3-screw and not in complete contact with the receiver. I replaced that mount with a 4-screw Picatinny rail and lapped the Picatinny rail to the receiver so I had complete rail/receiver contact. Steel Picatinny rails are three times stiffer than aluminium Picatinny rails; in other words an aluminium Picatinny rail will deflect three times more than a steel Picatinny rail for the same applied load. During recoil, a receiver bends: the heavier the recoil the more the receiver bends. Therefore using a steel Picatinny rail serves to stiffen the receiver against recoil induced bending. Another option I've used is to increase the size of the screws which in turn increases the clamping force that holds the Picatinny rail to the receiver and prevents any yielding from small screws. Obviously, lapping the rings to increase contact area, between scope tube/rings also helps. And as others have mentioned, adding another scope ring or two helps prevent the scope tube from sliding in the rings but typically does not prevent the receiver from flexing. However in my view, the flexing receiver under heavy recoil is the biggest culprit for loosening screws and/or scope movement/bending. Once you minimize receiver flexing; the screw loosening and scope movement/bending are also minimized.

Best regards,

CJR

[Tripplebeards]

It’s at Ruger right now. I asked them to remove the picatinny rail and inspect for rail damage and fitment while it’s there for loose trigger housing issues as well. Hopefully they’ll replace it with a more flush fitting rail that will need less bedding when I get it back.

[Tripplebeards]

It’s on its way back already! 24 hour turnaround time! They replaced the trigger housing per goodwill even though I polished my trigger per good will. I talked with the smith that replaced it and he said someone diberately hogged out the holes in my triggers housing. I told him I polished the trigger and cut the spring down a coil or two but never removed the trigger housing. I did tell him my action screws came loose from the rail vibrations and IMO probably rocked the trigger holes. He was extremely nice about it. In his original notes when I talked to accustomer service rep said the base screws were like a car and an oil change. It’s maintenance and I was responsible for checking them every so often. I explained that my optic came loose after the first shooting session so the oil change was done right before the car left the factory. We both laughed it off. I did tell him I will bed the rail and lick tite the screws when it comes back because I’m not going to remove my optic every 12 shots to check my base screws and relight it in. He also said that’s the way the rails fit (crappy) but is also sending along the new, long updated picatinny rail also per goodwill that he said is of stronger construction so I can tighten the rings down with more pressure. They tested it with factory Hornady 250 ftx rounds and said it shot one big hole with four shots measuring and outside to outside diameter 3/4” group. He also said the gun/caliber has been wrecking a lot of scopes things have been rattling loose. He suggested to switch to a shotgun scope since their set up to take more recoil. When it comes back I will bed the new rail and scope to the rings, polish the new trigger and remove a coil or two, retest, and report back and let everyone one know if things stayed put. I’d like to add a 3rd or 4th ring to the rail as well if anyone has an extra leupold PRW low or warne medium ring laying around PM me.

[cwlongshot]

Ruger has been good like that for me as well!

Service like that is good business. Things happen, good service mends many fences.

Glad to hear!

CW

[Tripplebeards]

The big thing that’s sticks in my mind is the Ruger tech/smith told me the 450 bushmaster Ruger American is not made for a target rifle to go out and shoot but just as a hunting rifle? I would assume he meant they weren’t designed well enough to hold together like the issues I’m having where it’s rattling a part. Guess they need to go back to the drawing board to design a stouter platform for this caliber.

[redhawk0]

That's an interesting comment. It could be that with such a high recoil it does't do well shooting from a "solid" sled. If shot from the shoulder only your body takes up some of that recoil...meaning it isn't all transferred into the scope/mounts...like on a sled.

Did you ever shoot the original setup (before sending it back) from the bench without the sled? Did you notice the same scope shift?

redhawk

[Geezer in NH]

Double stick tape in rings , lock tight the screws

[Tripplebeards]

That's an interesting comment. It could be that with such a high recoil it does't do well shooting from a "solid" sled. If shot from the shoulder only your body takes up some of that recoil...meaning it isn't all transferred into the scope/mounts...like on a sled.

Did you ever shoot the original setup (before sending it back) from the bench without the sled? Did you notice the same scope shift?

redhawk


No I didn’t but found the base screw loose so would have moved reguardless.

[tomme boy]

Double sided tape is going to dent your scope tube. Use glue, silicone, liquid electrical tape. Or get a set of 3 screw tactical rings and stop messing around with all of this BS of lapping and rosin and glue. The 3 screw rings came out because of this exact issue.

[egg250]

The big thing that’s sticks in my mind is the Ruger tech/smith told me the 450 bushmaster Ruger American is not made for a target rifle to go out and shoot but just as a hunting rifle? I would assume he meant they weren’t designed well enough to hold together like the issues I’m having where it’s rattling a part. Guess they need to go back to the drawing board to design a stouter platform for this caliber.

Wow, I can't imagine shooting a 450 for pleasure. Plus one on the recommendation on the shotgun scope.

[Larry Gibson]

"Or get a set of 3 screw tactical rings and stop messing around with all of this BS of lapping and rosin and glue."

Sage advise. If you're going to dance then pay the band and do the right dance to the tune. I also use Weaver tip off rings on my heavy recoilers which are hell for stout and really secure the scope w/o tape, rosin or glue. I also use small lighter weight scopes such as the lower power 1-4Xs, 1.45-5Xs and fixed of 1.5X, 2X, and 2.5X. Less weight = less inertia in the scope.

[Cap'n Morgan]

What Larry said!

I've seen a couple of European two-lbs monster scopes come loose, one of them wrecking the expensive German "Schwenkmontagen" rings on a 308 Remington Mohawk. When recoil gets tough, I'll take a low-riding, looong eye relief 1" straight tube scope any day...

[rockrat]

Double sided golf club grip tape.

[CJR]

Triplebeards,

"The factory picatinny rail is held on by four screws. The one closest to the bolt was finger loose!"

Here is something to try. I assume the screws, holding the Picatinny rail to the receiver, are 6-48 screws? Typically, these sized screws are torqued to be close to "yield point" of steel, i.e. close to the end of the elastic limit where a screw can stretch slightly under load BUT then return to its original length and maintain its original tightness. When a receiver bends/flexes, during recoil, the stress in a 6-48 screw can increase and cause yielding and the screw will NOT return to its original length but will be stretched/longer/loose. Your 6-48 screws may have been heat-treated poorly and could be softer/lower strength then they should be. Suggestion. Replace all your base mounting 6-48 screws with higher quality ones and see if that helps to stop the screw yielding/stretching. This is inexpensive to try. If the screw loosening persists, I'd recommend upgrading to 8-40 screws and a steel Picatinny rail. The 8-40 screws would give the same grip but would not be as close to the steel's elastic limit yield point. Then during recoil, the 8-40 screw would stretch elastically and then return to its original length to maintain the original grip that was torqued in initially. Likewise, the steel Picatinny rail would significantly stiffen the receiver so that it would not deflect as much.

Best regards,

CJR

[Tripplebeards]

Gun came back today with a new trigger group installed. Horrible travel. I worked all of it out and have it braking at 18 oz again like the first one did. Might have to adjust it a little heavier. The rep said he removed the factory weaver rail, inspected, reinstalled, and torqued it down. He said the gun shot a five shot group all in one big hole at fifty yards. Ruger also sent the updated picantinny rail with it. I removed the weaver rail to get started on bedding the updated picantinny rail and found rear screw was loose again! I don't know if he was messing with me or if I came loose after only five shots at the factory! I acraglas bedded the updated picantinny rail in place and blue loct tighter the screws before installing them into the base. I'm sure some the acraglass probably oozed into the screw holes or at least around the threads so that thing will not be coming loose again. I'm letting it sit up over night and will spray 3M adhesive on the inside of which ever scope ring set I decide to use in the morning.

[cwlongshot]

FYI, Your not doing yourself any justice unless you allow a honest time for the loc tite and acra glass to cure.

:popcorn::popcorn:

Good luck

CW

[762 shooter]

Liquid electrical tape. A tiny dab inside the front and rear ring will solve your problem. 3M is best but expensive. Never had a scope move. Secret of Ross Seyfried.

762

[Tripplebeards]

Thanks for your help guys. Won't be shooting it anytime in the next couple days anyways since its 50 below with windchill today. Acraglass and loct tite will be sitting for a good week Like I do bedding my rifle with the stuff to set up. I had it squish out on all sizes of the base when i tightened down the rail so I know I had complete coverage. I cleaned off the excess glass that squished out with bore scrubber and peroxide and Q tips. I don't have the extra funds right now for scope rings so I will have to make due with one of the sets I have and apply 3M 77 adhesive to the inside of the rings. I did place an add in helping hands trying to see if anyone had one extra medium warne maximum or low leupold PWR ring so I could mount a third ring on it for extra strength. Two will have to do for now with 2 screw rings. I'm pretty sure after the adhesive and bedding it will stay put.

[Tripplebeards]

Masked my rings so when I sprayed the only thing that was getting adhesive on it was the inside of the rings. I scuffed the inside with 600 grit lightly, cleaned the rings, screw holes, and screws with bore scrubber and rubbing alcohol before starting. I sprayed a very light coat of 3M 77 inside the rings and let it dry for a good 10/15 minutes before assembly. I blue loct tited all the screws. I also cleaned off the scope mating surface with rubbing alcohol. I made sure to slide the rings ALL the way forward in the picantinny rail slots before tightening the bases. I was shocked that I could still move the optic to adjust it with a lot less force than I thought it would take. Once I started tightening that optic wasn't moving being the adhesive already was grabbing really good. I decided the warne rings were a lot more heavy duty than my leupold PRW rings so they went on. Got it adjusted to my eye and torqued to 25 inch pounds per warne spec. I wipe my rump harder harder than 25 inch pounds so I slowly raised the torque to 35 in pounds and will test it in a week after giving the glass and glue time to set.

Taped up and sprayed...

http://i.imgur.com/WRdNMu4.jpg

10 min after tape removed..

http://i.imgur.com/sV8zyyv.jpg


Torqued and ready to put aside for a week to set up.....

http://i.imgur.com/jD0eWFz.jpg


I did notice the bolt release pin likes to fall out all by itself as well. Fell out twice when I had the action out of the stock mounting the rail. It just never quits.

The more I google on the net the more I find the loosening of the scope rail screws is a common problem with the ruger American 450 bushmaster. It seems they keep coming loose very quickly even after re torquing. I called Randy's gunshop in Michigan and who ever I talked to was well aware of it. After so many came back loose they now bed and lock tite all the rails on their RAR 450BM's before they leave their shop.

[BS2]

This year getting ready for deer season, giving the guns a last check. My son found the scope on his American 450 was loose. I will have to get an update.

[Tripplebeards]

Bolt release lever kit and new action screws on the way. Ruger took care of me as usual.

[lefty o]

Bolt release lever kit and new action screws on the way. Ruger took care of me as usual.

wonder how many times they have to take care of one item.

[Tripplebeards]

wonder how many times they have to take care of one item.

Good question. When I bought it I sent I back the next day for bluing issues and a scratched and banged up scope rail. There were some large spots where the bluing was either scratched off or just too thin of an application. I swear I can rub the cheap bluing process off on the Americans if I rub hard enough with my finger. The barrel was reblued...probably replaced because it was quicker on their end and a new picantinny rail installed and sent bad in a week. I didn't have my reading glasses with at time of delivery to inspect the rifle or I would have never bought it and had them order in another. A replacement magazine was sent because I had one dropping out and another one after the catch broke on the second. A replacement trigger now since the holes hogged out, an updated picantinny rail and screws, and now action screws, a bolt lever release kit and catch pin. I think that covers it...and I'm sure I'm one of many who have had the same parts replaced. The gun keeps falling apart and Ruger keeps taking care of me. It's just a pain to have to send it back and forth. I've been hoping Ruger would have let me trade up into a different platform like the go wild or scout model with all the issues its had. After the new parts are in I'll take it out next week and run about 40 rounds through it and see if Anything rattles loose again.

[lefty o]

my own take, they arent taking care of you, they have failed you as a customer. they have seen it more than once, by the second time they had the rifle back, they should have gone over it with a fine toothed comb.

[Tripplebeards]

my own take, they arent taking care of you, they have failed you as a customer. they have seen it more than once, by the second time they had the rifle back, they should have gone over it with a fine toothed comb.

Agreed,
It's my third Ruger that's been back for service with them. I like my Rugers but the ruger service techs won't look for and or address anything that is not noted by the customer sad to say. You have to almost be a backyard gunsmith when you buy one now a days sad to say.

They would have never looked over the rail...and left it loose for me afterwards, if I didn't ask them to inspect it and I would have had optics keep comming loose if I didn't check it and then bed the rail and lock tite the screws. I'm sure they still would be scratching their heads if I sent it back a third time for slipping optics and blame it on what ever brand rings I bought.

[Tripplebeards]

Fresh batch of tumble coated clear and blue PC 300 grain FN loaded with 35.5 grains of H110 ready to go for the test.

http://i.imgur.com/w7wfter.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/trbk3kB.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/exmhkCt.jpg

[Tripplebeards]

Well, I was getting ready to clean my barrel and figured I'd cycle a few of my rounds and jinxed myself. I believe Ruger replaced my magazine because on the last round...or if I only have one round in the magazine it jams now. I shortened the AOL to 2.035". Still jammed. I'm done with the Lee 300 FN in my bushmaster. All the magic that made them feed apparently has worn off. It's the only GC .452 mold I own so back to the drawing board.

[Moleman-]

You can use loctite on anodized aluminum by using a primer, which I've never seen in the stores, or by rubbing a new/clean bronze cleaning brush over one of the surface's to leave a little bronze coloring. The bronze coloring left by the brush will act like a primer. I have the warn mount on my 450 and my son has the Leupold. I brushed the back ring on both and put a drop of blue loctite in the bottom of the back ring before putting the scope in. You have to act fast as it will set up much faster than normal. Ended up having to redo mine as it set up before I got the scope level and where it needed to be. Two seasons and at least 500 rounds through them both and they haven't slipped. I did use a torque wrench to install them. The bases that we initially had that have worked great for lighter kicking cartridges were slipping before the end of the first box. If this didn't work they were going to get lapped

[Char-Gar]

Scope mounting rule no. 1: Run each screw that joins the base to the receiver down, all by itself and see if the base moves when the screw is fully bottomed out. If the base moves, the screw is to long, shorten it. If the base does not move, do the same to the next screw and so on. back off each screw before testing the others.

[0verkill]

A bit of an old thread but it highlights my experience with Rugers in general and especially their customer service. I think most people with Rugers that run flawless just don't shoot much. I really want a Super Redhawk in 480, then I remember the trouble I've had.

[W.R.Buchanan]

A bit of an old thread but it highlights my experience with Rugers in general and especially their customer service. I think most people with Rugers that run flawless just don't shoot much. I really want a Super Redhawk in 480, then I remember the trouble I've had.

You'll have more trouble with you hands getting beat to snot than you will with the gun.

Randy

[0verkill]

That might keep me from shooting it the 3 times it would take to break something in it.