Release agent?

[bosterr]

I thought I ordered an Accra Glass kit from Brownells and instead I ordered just the resin and hardener without the release agent. Instead of ordering that by itself, what's a fool proof release agent I could use instead? I really don't want to glue my Rem. 700 into my brand new fiberglass stock.

[Nobade]

http://www.scorehi.com/store/#!/1pnt-can-Parting-Compound-Release-Agent-for-epoxy-bedding/p/55180484/category=13633196

[country gent]

I have used pam ( messy) car wax or floor wax. several coats. It used to be the way to do it, bed and tune the rifle then glue it into stock. This was done in High Power, Long range and bench rest guns. It is a good idea to test the release agent before 2 pieces of steel coat one mix a little bedding agent and apply lightly clamp with rubber bands or weight. let cure and see how it comes apart.

[AZ Pete]

Johnson paste wax works very well. I no longer mess with the Brownells release agent.


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[Wolfer]

Johnson paste wax works very well. I no longer mess with the Brownells release agent.


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Same here. The JPW is much easier to apply and in my opinion works better.

[BK7saum]

I've used johnsons paste wax on a few.

[fdrywkr]

I've also have had good results with Johnson's Paste Wax. I've used at least 3 coats buffing the first two.

[Ateam]

I bed with devcon, and have always used JPW.

[bosterr]

The vast majority voted for Johnson's Paste Wax so that's what I'll go with. Thank you all for your help.

[NyFirefighter357]

Shoe polish

[Nobade]

Funny that shoe polish and floor wax is preferred over something specifically designed as a release agent for epoxy bedding rifles. I'll never understand some of this logic.

[IrishFritz]

Don't forget to fill holes and voids with modeling clay where you don't want the glass to go. I like to thin paste wax with paint thinner and paint it on to be sure you get into every tiny area.

[Ateam]

Funny that shoe polish and floor wax is preferred over something specifically designed as a release agent for epoxy bedding rifles. I'll never understand some of this logic.

It works, Its cheap, its readily available.... Whats not to understand?

Thats like saying you cant understand why anyone casts with anything other than lyman #2 because that is what midway sells as "the" casting alloy.

[Nobade]

It works, Its cheap, its readily available.... Whats not to understand?

Thats like saying you cant understand why anyone casts with anything other than lyman #2 because that is what midway sells as "the" casting alloy.The real stuff is also cheap, easily available, and always works. The bullet alloy isn't good logic though. #2 works for some applications but not others. You use what is best for your particular situation.
This whole bedding thing has become a running joke at the shop. It's like the guy who wants a custom rifle to win some type of competition, but refuses to get the caliber everybody else is winning with because he wants to be different. Then complains when he can't win.
I can't count how many rifles I've had to get out of the stock and rebed because somebody was bound and determined that they were not going to use rifle bedding epoxy and release agent designed to work with it. But yes, floor wax will work most of the time. And you can frost a cake with peanut butter but that doesn't mean it is the best choice for the job.

[country gent]

I have used marine tex ( it was popular for awhile). Devcon Plastic steel putty still has a following. Acra glass gel, micro bed, and Bisonite. Of these only the acra glass and bisonte comes with release agent. I keep going back to the Bisonite steel bed epoxy. A little harder to mix ( 10-1 ratio) but is a very hard solid bedding when done. Its preferred when bedding the garands and M14 M1As with limited bedding area.
A few weeks ago I made a little mould for a piece to be poured from JB Weld. Coated the mould with 2 coats Johnsons paste wax letting dry between coats as this has always worked in the past for release with JBs. The new batch of JB bonded to the mould. So either something has changed with the JBs or my can of Johnsons Paste Wax. Why I recommend you test it before going whole hog.

At work we had a couple new epoxies in that would bond thru oil and grease. How they did with waxes I don't know.

[pertnear]

I only use Johnson Paste Wax..... I've had a few "sorta-stucks" in the past with other stuff, but I KNOW JPW works! Use plumber's putty to fill any voids in the receiver.

FWIW

[Nobade]

Marine Tex is a good bedding epoxy. It is also quite toxic and is a strong skin sensitizer. The others are more or less decent for bedding rifles, though they all shrink too much when they cure. The acraglas gel is nylon, and doesn't fully crosslink for around 10 years depending on temperature.
Grease can be a very good adhesion promoter! I still remember a Sako deluxe stock that had to be removed with a hatchet when somebody tried to use silicone grease as a release agent.

[PTCSmith]

I like the spray stuff (AcraRelease?) that Brownells sells. I have also had great results with Hornady One Shot Case Lube. A spray release agent is so easy to use. As a previous poster said, however, stay away from PAM. You will never get the stock cleaned up.

[Larry Gibson]

As mentioned, fill the holes with modeling clay. I then apply a thin coat of LLA and let it dry. After the bedding is complete it cleans off with bore solvent easily.

[waksupi]

Some tips on bedding. On a fiberglas stock, it helps to roughen up the area that is being bedded with a dremel. Use vinegar and paper towels to wipe off excess acragel. If the barreled action is hard to remove after it sets, put a towel on your bench, and give it a good whack of the barrel ahead of the stock to free the metal.

[AZ Pete]

Funny that shoe polish and floor wax is preferred over something specifically designed as a release agent for epoxy bedding rifles. I'll never understand some of this logic.

good old American commercialism. Why recommend a product that is inexpensive and readily available when you can package a product in a container that says "i'm special' and sell it for vastly more per application.


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[Nobade]

good old American commercialism. Why recommend a product that is inexpensive and readily available when you can package a product in a container that says "i'm special' and sell it for vastly more per application.


Sent from my iPad using TapatalkDon't you think that's pretty mean spirited, especially when you don't have your facts straight?

[pietro]

Don't forget to fill holes and voids with modeling clay where you don't want the glass to go. I like to thin paste wax with paint thinner and paint it on to be sure you get into every tiny area.


Undiluted paste wax readily fills any voids/holes or sharp corners that can lock the action into the stock of bedding compound enters them - AND, it's very easy to clean out of those same areas after the bedding's cured.


.

[AZ Pete]

Don't you think that's pretty mean spirited, especially when you don't have your facts straight?

sorry if you are offended. How about elaborating on "the facts"


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[swheeler]

The blue stuff that comes in the box work well.

[Budzilla 19]

When you have to freeze a stuck action to remove it from a stock, you will learn how to apply release agent properly!! Hahaha!! Release agents are simply a barrier, so use what you want to use, just be prepared if it doesn’t do it’s intended job. Plan B sorta stuff, ya know! One thing about sticking one in a stock, if you ever do get it loose,boy it will be tightly bedded!! Good luck.

[JeepHammer]

Funny that shoe polish and floor wax is preferred over something specifically designed as a release agent for epoxy bedding rifles. I'll never understand some of this logic.

There are two reasons...
1. Personal preference.
Some people just 'Like' to do things a certain way...
Some perfer blonds, some perfer brunettes, some are masochistic and perfer redheads...


2. As some of us have found along the way, nearly the exact same ingredients used in waxes/polishes are used in some 'Release' products.
Why pay more money for less product when it's labeled 'Release' instead of 'Polish' or 'Wax'.

A third possibility is consistency.
While 'Release' agents come & go, change formulas without warning,
The old floor wax has been the same formula for 80 years with no sign of changing...
You KNOW where it's going to work and where it's going to try and stick.

[Mr_Sheesh]

I've used PVA in the past (Poly-Vinyl Alcohol) but then I had a bunch from making Fiberglass Canoes etc.

Cleans up with hot water.

Lots of other things work well, too. Best to test the first time you use something as a release with your particular bedding compound.

[Stephen Cohen]

In this country it is hard to get many of the proper products, I find Kiwi neutral boot polish works fine on the many rifles I have bedded with Devcon. I agree that one should test on scrap first when doing substitutes as it is a proper you know what getting an action out of a stock after its been glued in. Regards Stephen

[CamoWhamo]

I saw on one youtube video where the presenter says he uses the Hornady One Shot Case lube (in the aerosol can).

2 coats with drying time in between.

I have not used it to bed a rifle but i have tried it when i bedded a scope base using JB Weld and it worked a treat. The base popped right off with a light blow from my wooden mould mallet.

[gwpercle]

Funny that shoe polish and floor wax is preferred over something specifically designed as a release agent for epoxy bedding rifles. I'll never understand some of this logic.

It's a Redneck thing....I've used Johnson's Paste Wax for release agent, in boolit lube, to wax my guns but have never used it to wax wood floors !
Use two or three coats for a release agent .... put lots on any screw threads that might get glassed

Gary :redneck:

[Uncle Grinch]

I use paste wax also.. applied with a small chip brush.. for two very scientific reasons...

1. It works for me

2. I’ve already got two cans of it.

There!

[KenT7021]

I've used paste wax.It works fine.I currently use the blue liquid that Brownell's sells as release agent works fine as well.Just get a good coverage and let the release agent dry before bedding.I've never had problem with it.

[ipopum]

There is no learning curve with JPW it works every time all the time .

I have used it for years on many glass beds and have never had a problem .

I use an old tooth brush to apply it to the stock cavity and the stock screws .

[fixit]

I have used good old fashioned bearing grease with good success. It's a matter of what you have on hand.

[cwlongshot]

I have used Pam, Spray case lube, JPW, shoe polish and specific release agent and ALL OF THEM work and work very well. (As long as enough is applied and complete coverage is achieved) It makes NO NEVERMIND what the name of the product is. As long as it stops the beddings ability to bond where you have applied your choice of product, your good to go.

As for the beddings, some products are not as hard as others when cured, On a HPR I want a pretty hard bedding so Acra Glass, Devcon aluminum have both worked real good for me. JB also works, but isn't as "glass" hard as previous two. I just bedded my B-Mag using JB mostly cause my Devcon dried up and I didn't have enough Acra Glass left... But also its a rim fire and Im sure that he JB will do a fine long term job.

Good luck to all

CW

[dirtball]

Devcon 10110, and Kiwi neutral shoe polish, 50+ stocks can't be wrong.

Dave

[MrHarmless]

I saw on one youtube video where the presenter says he uses the Hornady One Shot Case lube (in the aerosol can).

2 coats with drying time in between.


That is absolutely hilarious. I would have never thought you could get away with that. I would be way too scared of screwing that up. I've bedded one Boyds stock, and I just used the paste wax that came with it. Three layers with some buffing in between the and action popped right out.

[cwlongshot]

It actually works very well... I use it all the time for small pieces and parts and JB. Tangs or bottom metal fitting. never stuck anything.

NO buffing, no troubles.. Spray let dry, spray again let dry and work...

CW

[marlinman93]

Plain old heavy bearing grease works as good as anything, and easier to get into tight places than paste wax too. The last bedding compound kit I bought had a little tin marked "release agent" and when I opened it inside the tin was axle grease. I chuckled, as I've used that for decades, and never had a stuck stock.

[yeahbub]

My first time using Acraglas, I used the release agent the way the instructions said to. When dry, I thought it was an unnecessarily thick coating and it came off the steel real easy. When I was in the military, we used automotive paste wax on the parts we didn't want to get stuck when doing fiberglass repairs. Just like waxing a car, paste goes on, let dry, buff it to a shine. It's very thin and the Acraglas will even have the texture of the steel surface in it, which is a very close fit. Can't get much tighter a fit than that. I've had a couple that didn't want to come loose at first, but some judicious tapping with a plastic mallet popped them out. If they're more stubborn, put them in the deep freeze overnight. They'll come loose. Just make sure all the correct parts are, in fact, coated.