Russian "Italian" slug mold help

[Ginsing]

Hey slug casters.
Can any of you fellows that have the "Italian" slug mold give me some advice.
When I cast a slug it releases perfect from the mold but will not come off the pin. It's like it fuses itself on there. The only way to get it off is to dip it back in the pot and melt it off.
I am casting strait clip on wheel weighs. Preheating the mold and pin. Running my lead hot.
I tried polishing the center pin inside and out, put graphite spray on, tried silicon spray, tried smoking it as well.
Have any of you experienced this?
Do you think it could be the alloy I'm using?
Should I run it with pure lead?
Any advice would be very much appreciated
Thanks

[Boolit_Head]

I have not used that mold but have used HP pistol molds that acted like that. Smoke the pin, the carbon will assist with releasing. Run the mold and or melt hotter and see if sitting longer in the mold will allow it to release. Most of my HP molds take several casting sessions to break in and release easier.

[Ginsing]

I did try smoking the mold and pin.
I tried different lengths of time sitting in the mold, no dice.
I'm preheating the mold and pin. Running the lead hot.
Problem is I pour one and it will not release. No way it will come off the pin. So I have to dip it in the pot to melt it off. Then pour another only to have it stick. I'm not talking having a hard time releasing, I'm talking fully fused like it's soldered on there.

[Rcmaveric]

Try using pure lead and run it hot. Preheat the mold aswell. The insert pin needs to be as hot as the rest of the mold.

Shotgun slugs are ment to be used with pure lead. Could be the main problem.

Lol I tried using a Lee Key drive slug mold with wheel weights and a cold mold. Broke that mold getting the slugs out. I was able to fix the mold. Switched to pure lead and preaheted the hell out of the mold. I still have to use vice grips to the first couple slugs off the center pin untill the pin gets hot. Works good now and only loose the first couple slugs. Once its all hot, it runs quick and will empty a pot fast.

I cant get my shotgun slug molds to cast easily with anything other than pure lead.

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[rancher1913]

that mold is a problem child, had the same problem with mine and gave up on it. I have had better luck with the zeverboy frag slug, they drop out ok.

[gpidaho]

Try putting a thin coat of dielectric silicon grease on the pin. That is my choice for lubing pins and sprue plates. I use 2 cycle motor oil on the mould pins, Gp

[Ginsing]

I have put silicone on there. No dice
The pin on this mold is not a solid one. It is bored out. This is where the problem might lie.
I ordered the mold with a solid pin as well and the slug drops off that pin ok. It's the pin for the special tail wad I am having issues with.
I have never had a problem with casting the Lee slugs or the lyman 525 with wheel weights.
I suppose I will have to scrounge up some pure lead and give that a try.
It's a shame, was hoping for a harder slug.

[tomme boy]

Graphite is your friend

[Oily]

tomme boy is right. Coat that pin with # 2 pencil lead and try it. Or try some artist "lead" that has a high graphite content. Works like a champ on all my HP molds

[tomme boy]

Go to the hardware store and get some dry lube. It is powdered graphite. Or it might be labeled lock lube. I have a can that Felpro used to make that is a aresole spray. I used it on dies in a plant I worked at that had to be pressed together under 1K tons of pressure. If you did not use it they would never come apart ever again.

[Ginsing]

I think you fellows didn't fully read my original post. I tried dry lube spray graphite

[rancher1913]

this mold does not work like a regular slug mold with a plug in the bottom, it is almost inverted. I tried all the ideas you guys have suggested and had no luck either. the only thing that I did not try before giving up on it was sanding the pin to smooth it out, you might try that.

[rancher1913]

the zeverboy mold is designed so that you can reclamp the boolit back in the mold and pull the pin, then drop the boolit. had good luck with it and use it instead of the italian.

[Ginsing]

I tried to sand it with 600 grit than Polish with 0000 steel wool. It still sticks
I am gonna try pure lead this week with it. If that still doesn't work I an going to just use the solid pin. With the solid pin however the slug cast much lighter and very thin in the front.
I may try just cutting the solid pin down so it still accepts the tail wad yet remains a solid nose.
Thanks for your input fellas

[W.R.Buchanan]

The Lyman Foster Slug Mould I have (but not for much longer) has the same problem with the slug sticking to the pin. I found that rapping the mould handle hinge a few times would break it loose. Also pull the pin before you open the mould. I was getting 1 relatively good slug about every 5 pours with that mould using Wheel Weights. It is supposed to be ran with pure lead also as is all the big slug moulds.

The alloy may be your problem.

Randy

[dsh1106]

I use automotive anti-seize, just a dab works for a loading session.

Scott

[Whiterabbit]

It's a cavity for the pin to cast a slug mold? Like a hollowpoint pin, but then drilled? Kinda? Is the profile of that tail such that the tip of the tail is fatter than the shank, as if a drill bit chattered at the bottom, and made it so the tail won't release? I don;t know what the profile is, but it almost sounds like a mechanical lock, given how much pain you've gone through already to no avail.

[Ginsing]

I will melt off the slug I have attached to the pin and take a really close look in the bottom of the hole. It didn't look wider at the bottom when I looked yesterday. I did Polish the inside of the bore hole, right at the bottom of the hole there was a slight swirl where the bit bottomed out. I might try and get that swirl smoothed out. It does seem like a mechanical lock yes

[Blood Trail]

Man, I'd never had a problem with mine.

[longbow]

Just had a thought... dangerous times!

I had been thinking about making a D bit reamer to clean up the post hole but maybe lapping would do it... if that is the problem area. Coat everything with thick mould release and hopefully you can get at least one decent slug cast then use that to lap the center post hole. There could be a burr or groove in that hole causing the lock up.

I'd suggest casting very hot and using wheelweight alloy and open the mould as soon as the sprue puddle hardens (not quite solid) so the slug is still a bit soft. It should shake off whatever is holding then you have a decent slug to lap with. If that doesn't work I can likely make a D bit reamer to clean that hole up if it is the suspected problem anyway.

Yeah, KrackenFan69 has the Paradox version and he says his casts beautifully.

Longbow

[Ginsing]

Success
Heated up my casting furnace and topped it up with stick on wheel weights. Had about 1/4 pot full of coww in there already. So about 25/75 mix and they are releasing.
They are a dog to get off still, have to use the mold as a clamp and really pull.
I'm very happy, seems the alloy has everything to do with the release of the slug.
I'm hoping it will get easier as the mold seasons a bit. Maybe some more polishing and clean up the inside of the base pin.
Longbow perhaps I'll get you to give me a hand lapping it or touch it up with one of your reamers.
A big thanks to everyone who helped me out

[longbow]

Good to know you've got some success.

Yes, I can help you out. We'll take a look shortly. Its a bit busy with Christmas coming so it may have to wait a bit but I'll make some time after Christmas for sure, if not before.

I used one of the Paradox slugs KrackenFan69 sent me to size a reamer to make a "post hole" for modifying a Lee slug mould so if your post is the same or similar (should be) it should clean that up. I had no hang ups at all with the modified Lee mould tonight. I started a new thread about that.

I am sure a little clean up will fix it. There is most likely a groove or burr in there somewhere. It doesn't take much!

Longbow

[Ginsing]

Your help and expertise would be greatly appreciated. After Christmas would be just fine by me. The Christmas rush is full tilt in my household.
I'm just super happy to have at least some progress with this mold.

[W.R.Buchanan]

So there are two shotgun enthusiasts in Castlegar BC Who'd a thunk? I was curious and had to look it up on Streets and Trips and it appears to me that you are only about 100 or so miles from Spokane? Seems like a trip down would be a way to get components you need and can't buy in BC?

Ginsing: Try some synthetic 2 stroke motor oil on your mould pin. Since I'm sure all of you have Snowmobiles you probably have some in your garage. It also works well for general mould lubrication.

Randy

[longbow]

Randy:

I used to shop for reloading supplies in Spokane and Colville (Clark's Allsports) but 911 put an end to that. non US citizens can't be in possession of powder, primers, bullets or pretty much any reloading stuff. it is legal to bring it to Canada but it is not legal to be in possession of it in the US and it is not legal for a US citizen to export even empty brass unless you have an FFL. So as restrictive as our gun laws are, it is the US that put an end to my shopping in Washington!

I have to order in most stuff. The local gunshop of which we have one was out of most powders for about a year. Makes it awkward to shoot when you can't reload. Good thing I like archery too!

Longbow

[Ginsing]

I wish we could still go down across the line to get components. In my clay shooting days we used to go down every few months and get all we needed for us and club members. Back then everyone loaded their own. Now it's all cheap factory ammo at the club. Perhaps if I was closer to a distributer could save a bit loading your own, but at $60 for 25 lbs of shot and $35 + per pound of powder it makes it hard to justify.


I do use synthetic 2 stroke oil for my pins and sprue plate but I have never used it inside a cavity. Wouldn't that give a poor fill out on the inside surface of the slug?

[Blood Trail]

I wish we could still go down across the line to get components. In my clay shooting days we used to go down every few months and get all we needed for us and club members. Back then everyone loaded their own. Now it's all cheap factory ammo at the club. Perhaps if I was closer to a distributer could save a bit loading your own, but at $60 for 25 lbs of shot and $35 + per pound of powder it makes it hard to justify.


I do use synthetic 2 stroke oil for my pins and sprue plate but I have never used it inside a cavity. Wouldn't that give a poor fill out on the inside surface of the slug?

Just posted that video on how to roll crimp these on my Facebook page.


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