Cheap Case Induction Annealer Experiment

[texasmac]

Hi guys,

I thought you might be interested in an experiment I ran to determine if I could make a cheap case neck induction annealer. The experiment was not a success but you may learn something from the article which is posted at the following link.

http://www.texas-mac.com/Cheap_Case_Neck_Induction_Annealer_Experiment.html

Wayne

[Bent Ramrod]

That’s an informative article.

If you used the original 2” coil and put a piece of 1-3/4” steel round stock with a 1/2” hole in the center inside, would the steel cylinder generate and maintain sufficient heat so you could stick the case necks in the hole to anneal? Could you turn the current down to control the heat to a given temperature? Or would this setup draw more current and burn the unit up like the smaller coil?

I was always wondering if it would be possible to turn and thread a copper cylinder of the proper size, use it to replace the tip on a heavy-duty electric soldering iron, and put the case neck over the cylinder for sufficient time to see the color change. But what I don’t know about electricity and electronics would fill a volume.

[texasmac]

That’s an informative article.

If you used the original 2” coil and put a piece of 1-3/4” steel round stock with a 1/2” hole in the center inside, would the steel cylinder generate and maintain sufficient heat so you could stick the case necks in the hole to anneal? Could you turn the current down to control the heat to a given temperature? Or would this setup draw more current and burn the unit up like the smaller coil?

I was always wondering if it would be possible to turn and thread a copper cylinder of the proper size, use it to replace the tip on a heavy-duty electric soldering iron, and put the case neck over the cylinder for sufficient time to see the color change. But what I don’t know about electricity and electronics would fill a volume.

Brent,

Thanks. I appreciate your suggestion which is similar to one another guy on this forum that sent me via a PM suggesting I try the 2" coil with a smaller diameter iron or steel rod setting on an insulated base. The rod diameter would be slightly smaller than the inside of the case neck. I plan to try both suggestions & will report the results here.

BTW, with the power supply I'm using there's no way to control the output voltage or current. Also, if either one of the suggestion work I'll most likely have to switch power on & off as the cases are inserted since the metal rod or tube would most likely heat up to the point of melting during an annealing session if the power is not cycled on & off.

Wayne

[jdfoxinc]

Banggoods.com has inexpensive power supplies and ZVS drivers. Just over $100.00 for both that I am getting. I also purchased graphite crucibles so I can melt scrap brass.

I'll be using litz wire to make other coils. Tubing and multi stranded litz wire reduce surface eddy effect. Also adding insulation between the objective and the coil.

[John Boy]

Wayne - interesting read but WAY over my head to assemble & connect all the items ... so, turn the lights down low - propane torch - twist the case with my thumb & index finger and when the case color from the mouth down is bluish/green (625 - 650F) ... drop it on a cotton cloth to air cool :2_high5:

[popper]

The cheapest and most efficient electric annealed would be a ceramic rod of less than mouth ID heated by normal cal rod.

[jdfoxinc]

I'm annealing 9x19 & .40 Smith cases to make j words. I'll experiment with one to 5 drywall screws sticking out of wood with the cases slipped over the screw heads. The steel screws transfer heat to the brass. I'm going to insulate the inside of the coil with one to two layers of aerogel batt. Hoping to extend the cycle time before the coil gets warm.

For annealing rifle case neck ill just stick an uncoated steel screw to nail in the case mouth then hold just the case neck up in the coil.