New to reloading

[joshst2010]

Hello my name is Josh my buddy bubba(Mike) that I work with told me that y'all might be able to help me with getting started reloading.i am very interested in learning how of y'all can help it would be much appreciated for sure. I am new to reloading I'm trying to get my wife more into guns

[Petrol & Powder]

Hello !

Get a reloading manual or two and READ it !

That's the best place to start.

[KMac]

Josh,
Welcome from North Texas. What calibers are you planning to reload for?

[sureYnot]

Hello !

Get a reloading manual or two and READ it !

That's the best place to start.Yup. You won't be able to ask the right questions until you've done that. He's not being snarky. That's the best first thing to do.

I will add though, that pistols are dirt cheap to reload. And that a .223 isn't far behind.
Welcome to the addiction.


Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

[daloper]

Hello from Sparta Michigan. Welcome to this madness. Reloading in one thing. Just wait until you are bitten by the casting bug.

[WRideout]

This is basically an information and advice forum, but having said that, the group here is very generous as well and willing to help a newcomer in any way. I turn to the forum whenever I have a particular problem about guns or reloading, or if I need information on how to load for a cartridge that does not have a lot of published data. If you look at the helping hands sub-forum, there are items that members are giving away. Have a look.

Wayne

[Petrol & Powder]

Hello my name is Josh my buddy bubba(Mike) that I work with told me that y'all might be able to help me with getting started reloading.i am very interested in learning how of y'all can help it would be much appreciated for sure. I am new to reloading I'm trying to get my wife more into guns

I wasn't being snarky and if I came across that way, my apologies.

Seriously, the very best way to get a grasp of the process is to buy a good reloading manual and read up on the topic first. I have been reloading for decades and like most reloaders, have accumulated a collection of manuals over the years. My favorite basic manual is the Speer manual and it's probably as good a place to start as anywhere.

By reading first your will get a "big picture" view of reloading. You'll still have questions but you'll have a much better foundation.

Like all education, you gain a foundation of knowledge and then build upon that foundation.

After you've built up a good base of knowledge, the next step is to actually do what you are learning. Start simple and gain experience. You don't fly the 4 engine jet the first day, you start with the single engine piston powered propeller aircraft and build skills. Reloading is sort of like that.

There is a wealth of knowledge available on this forum and many of the members are happy to share what they've learned.

[CastingFool]

Check your local gunshops, and ask if they know of any reloaders that may be willing to mentor you.

[dverna]

Check your local gunshops, and ask if they know of any reloaders that may be willing to mentor you.

DO NOT DO THIS. Some are idiots and you will not know. Same warning about YouTube

Any good manual will teach you to reload.

Ask questions here as we have some good reloaders here.

[Walks]

I suggest the LYMAN #50 Reloading Manual.
It has reloading info on Rifle & Handgun for J-bullets and Cast BULLETS.

It also has one of the simplest explanations of Casting your own bullets.

[Cast_outlaw]

The only advice I will give is when you start reloading do it alone and away from districtions mistakes can not only be costly but also dangerous

[toallmy]

Welcome to Cast boollits , What cartridge would you like to start with ?

[JBinMN]

Welcome to the CB.GL Forum!
:)

[Three44s]

Another welcome to the forum!

I would suggest taking this one step at a time. This is a cast bullet site and it would be natural for members to usher a beginner into casting prematurely. I would resist that temptation.

Handloading all by itself is a pretty good step. It is not rocket science and not insurmountable what so ever, however adding casting on top of learning to handload would not be wise in my opinion.

I am also a champion for reading all you can about the subject (and here, reading means books). I have been loading since I was age 19 in 1975 and took up casting in about 1990 and I have not stopped reading nor learning yet. BTW, there are a good many shooter/loader/casters with way more experience here than myself.

I would not suggest waiting years to begin casting as I did, a few scant months would be more than sufficient.

Time and money on books is well spent, the internet is a good place to get really confused. There is lots of good advice to be found there but there are also lots of well intentioned opinions that may be biased. Get yourself grounded in the basics before you delve too deep in the shooting forums.

My favorite book for a beginner are the Hornady reloading manuals. Not that they have everything about everything but rather that they have by far the best explanation about head space in bottle neck chambered rifles WITH color drawings. More beginners get sideways and confused about head space than all the other topics regarding handloading put together it would seem and yet ..... headspace is absolutely critical to safety.

The books from Hornady are not my best manuals, none of my many are best, but I consider it the best first in order to get the concept of headspace firmly tucked under your belt right up front.

The number one goal is safety, first and foremost. I have lost track of the folks that have grown an interest in loading, falsely thinking that more speed is attainable through the craft. While there are exceptions to that, the truth is that even matching factory velocity often proves rather a glass ceiling and many handloads are lagging at least advertised velocity. The reason that excessive velocity is unwise with handloading is two fold. One and the most critical towards safety is that your casing is reused. Factory ammunition counts on one firing per casing while handloading to be financially beneficial requires the use and reuse of the cartridge casing as many times as practical. If you damage your brass or hulls, you defeat the purpose of handloading and also degrade safety. The second reason that just loading for speed is not the best path is that the best accuracy is often found at somewhat slower velocities than factory ammunition is loaded at. That is not 100% cast in concrete but it is a rule that pretty consistently across the board, particularily with rifles.

The other myth is that you take up handloading to save money. In rare instances it can happen but the reality is that by far the majority of handloaders take up the hobby and shoot more, much more and thus shoot better, much better. As a result you do not save money in the strictest sense but rather save more per round fired.

You might want to share with us what you are intending to load for and how you are going to use it. That will give us a better idea on how to make suggestions.

Three44s

[lightman]

Welcome Aboard! This is mostly a forum about bullet casting but all here are reloaders and will be glad to answer questions and help.

I suggest first buying a reloading book and slowly reading through it. I like the Lyman book, like Walks suggested. Start by reading and thinking through the process. Then start with one cartridge and master the process. Start with something basic like a 30-30, 30-06, 243 ect in rifles and something like a 38 spl or 44 special or magnum in pistols. Some cartridges are more difficult to master than others. 9mm comes to mind.

If you belong to a club look for an old bullseye shooter or another shooter that looks like he is squared away and see if they would help you get started. There are a lot of Cast Boolit members from Michigan and one of them may even be close to you.

Equipment? There are several brands and none of the choices is a wrong one. Most any of it will last a lifetime.

[jeepvet]

It may sound trivial but you have already gotten some of the very best advice there is out there about reloading. You are off to a great start by asking questions before you make some possibly very dangerous mistakes. Reloading is not hard (not rocket science), but you do have to know what you are doing or it can be deadly. In my opinion, the three best pieces of advice you have received are: 1) Read, Read, Read, 2) Do not get even slightly distracted while reloading and 3) Safety is ALWAYS first.

I reload because to me it is FUN and I can achieve a level of accuracy that I do not get with most factory loads, unless you get into the high priced ammo. After you take the total cost of equipment and supplies, it will take you quite a few rounds loaded to break even on cost, but if you enjoy it, the entertainment value is enormous. It can be a very fun and relaxing hobby or lifestyle.

Welcome to the addiction!

[jmort]

I would get three manuals
Lyman's 50th
Modern Reloading by Richard Lee
Lymans Cast Bullet 4th edition
After reading them, you will have a good idea of the reloading process.
Read this forum and the Stickies
Read this, it is free
http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

[mattw]

Welcome... reloading is almost as fun as casting and shooting. Have been doing all 3 for 30+ years. I have always collected the Lyman load books, over the years they have always seemed to provide the best set of instructions for a new reloader. Pick a cartridge and learn that one well before you move on, please verify loads from anywhere. I still tend to cross loads from powder and bullet manufacturers, just to make sure it makes sense.

[dragon813gt]

I would get three manuals
Lyman's 50th
Modern Reloading by Richard Lee
Lymans Cast Bullet 4th edition
After reading them, you will have a good idea of the reloading process.
Read this forum and the Stickies
Read this, it is free
http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

I will second this and say to read all of them before asking questions. Everyone is willing to help but no one wants to spoon feed someone who hasn’t done any research them-self.

The first edition of modern reloading can be found on archive.org for free. And you can find the 3rd edition of the Cast Bullet Handbook for free if you google it. I prefer actual books but there’s no money expenditure this way and you can decide if reloading is for you.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Check your local gunshops, and ask if they know of any reloaders that may be willing to mentor you.

I totally agree with this bit of advice. There has to be someone in your circle of friends that reloads, do a sit - in with them and learn by example. I learned waaaay back when all by myself the hard way (read alot of books first though). Back then we were still killing wooly mammoths with sharp sticks!Robert

[Bazoo]

Howdy from Kentucky, Im chippewa from the Sault Ste Marie Tribe in the UP.

Anyways, You should start by reading one or two of the modern reloading manuals. Dont read the old manuals until later (if you even want to), when you have a good grasp of reloading. I say this because, while some of them stuff in those old manuals are still relevant, most is not. Lots of the ballistic stuff is still the same, but the tools, powders, terms, techniques, and Ideals that were common back then are not in use today.

Another thing i'd recommend is not to be brand specific. Dont buy all Lee or RCBS or what have you. Buy each tool, used if you can, of the brand that suits you. You'll save money buying each part individually and used, than buying a kit.

I'd suggest for a press, either the lee hand press, or bench mounted C press. You'll need a priming tool for either, the hand press can be purchased with the ram prime as a kit. I didnt see the C press available with it. Cheap yes, but it will hold up a good while until you decided you need more, or it'll work just fine with no "upgrading".

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-90180-Breech-Press/dp/B0050Z5A6E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1544131266&sr=8-3&keywords=lee+hand+press

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SF4X5I/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_2?pf_rd_p=6375e697-f226-4dbd-a63a-5ec697811ee1&pd_rd_wg=aWs0L&pf_rd_r=42041NCAWNSZ9G12HVNC&pd_rd_i=B002SF4X5I&pd_rd_w=iCGTJ&pd_rd_r=8d551d89-c7d2-4de3-a178-14bebc9d992f&ie=UTF8&qid=1544131327&sr=2

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-LP90106-Ram-Prime/dp/B00162UGQE/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1544131376&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+ram+prime

Personally I'd go with used RCBS dies.

Here is the lyman 48. The 49 isnt really got anything in it that the 48th doesnt, except load data for cartridges that werent in production at the time of its publication. I havent gotten ahold of the 50th yet for comparison.

http://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Manuals/Reloading/Reloading%20Manuals/Lyman%20Reloading%20Handbook%20-%2048th%20Edition%20-%202002%20-%20ocr.pdf

Be careful bout learning from someone else without reading the manual first. There are a lot of folks that reload, but dont do it safely. Folks can put ammo together sloppy and get lucky a while, but they always end up hurting themselves, their guns, and others.

Dont be shy about asking questions.

~Bazoo

[Grmps]

joshst2010 - welcome to CB. If you decided to start casting to save money, forget it. You won't, you'll just shoot more.

Pretty Powder Coated boolits (lead bullets), small comfortable to shoot guns like a 380 (also available in several woman-friendly colors) are places to start. You don't want to scare her with something that will buck like a bronco or kick like a mule.
223 is nice but not the best caliber to learn to load on (my opinion:))
Lee equipment IS a good place to start, it is reasonably priced and works well.
If you want to put out a little more to begin with, you'll never go wrong with https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60
and you'll use all if not part of it forever. I started with one, Don't get me wrong, I'm still using most oth the Lee equipment I got many years ago.
Maybe a 357 magnum for you, It will shoot 38 special and is very easy to cast for and load.
Casting boolits (lead bullets) properly is a science, once you know the basics, not a hard science.
There is a lot of good information on CB. The Google search (top right of every forum page) is a gateway to all the knowledge on this forum. IF you can’t find your answer there ask the question (Please be as detailed as possible, pictures help http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?344661-Capturing-amp-Posting-screen-shots I would be very surprised if there wasn’t someone on this forum that could answer ANY (firearm related) question you might have)
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm
1. Boolits need to be cast .0005 to .003 (normally .002) over the slugged diameter of your barrel for accuracy and to avoid leading. If the fit is wrong nothing else will work right.
a. slugging a barrel (it is safer to use a brass rod or a steel rod with a couple of coats of tape to avoid damaging your barrel http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinSlug.htm
b. chamber casting https://www.brownells.com/guntech/cerrosafe/detail.htm?lid=10614
or pound casting http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?356251-Pound-Cast-instructions-(for-rifle-chamber)
2. the right alloy needs to be used for the velocity and purpose of the boolit (don’t fall into the trap of going with too hard an alloy
https://i.imgur.com/FD4XW69.png
Economical way to easily test lead hardness
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?355056-Easier-pencil-lead-hardness-testing
https://i.imgur.com/TrOTWFb.png
Some alloys harden over time
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_3_alloySelectionMetallurgy.ht m
different alloy’s different end hardnesses
https://i.imgur.com/O8uvZ8i.png
https://i.imgur.com/MHPjxfp.png
Lead alloy calculator
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45784&d=1341560870
3. velocity the bullet needs to be pushed hard/fast enough to get the proper spin, have the proper velocity to accurately reach the target but not so hard as to be dangerous or strip the lead off in the grooves instead of spinning the boolit..
The boolit needs to be the right weight for the riffling/twist rate of your barrel
Powders range from fast to slow, you need to choose the right powder for your barrel length & application.
Loading manuals list the best powders for certain calibers and boolit weights.
NEVER use any posted noncommercial load data without first checking commercial load data to see if falls in the safe parameter for your firearm!! There are several firearms out there that can handle much higher pressures than others!!
Link to free online load data
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?337910-CB-load-data-online-sources

[joshst2010]

Hello my name is Josh my buddy bubba(Mike) that I work with told me that y'all might be able to help me with getting started reloading.i am very interested in learning how of y'all can help it would be much appreciated for sure. I am new to reloading I'm trying to get my wife more into guns

Thank you very much to all of you for your help so far I will definitely do these things for sure! I have 1 Taurus g2c and plan on getting another very soon. They are both 9mm rounds just wanting to start off with one caliber then learn as I go I guess you would say. Again thanks to all for advice and help already hoping to become a part of the"addiction"!

[joshst2010]

So I'm having issues really like posting but I want to add that I'm getting into 300 blackout rounds and 357 sig as well as the 9mm rounds too hoping to learn allot from all of you again thanks for all help and advise from y'all

[skeettx]

AND Let this thread know of your needs

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?372115-A-Tumbleweed-Christmas-needs-a-Christmas-gift

[popper]

I would suggest starting with the 300BO first. Cost effective and easy to load, most any bullets will work. About any single stage press will work, die are inexpensive (Lee is fine), you can dipper measure powder - initial cost is therefore low. Just hard to mess up reloading BO. Bolt gun or AR? 9mm factory is so cheap it's hardly worth it and not a good place to start - small case, high pressure, screw ups can be hazardous. Sig is even worse - short neck & all.

[Tom W.]

And please, just one can of powder on the bench at a time.......

[Three44s]

I agree that the 300 BO would be the easier cartridge to begin loading for from your short list of cartridges.

You should invest the added money to purchase in a set of dies with a carbide sizer for loading the 9 mm. You will want to learn to monitor your powder charges quite well with all the cartridges listed but doubly so with the 9 mm.

Neither the BO nor the SIG cartridge will make sense in carbide form. Dillon makes them in 357 SIG but at ball park $150 they are wildly more expensive than a set of steel dies. I do not even know of a 300 BO die set listed as “carbide”. But in any case, bottle necked rounds requires lubrication prior to sizing. So in the face of needing lubing regardless of their construction, why spend 100 bucks more for carbide?

The 9mm is a straight sided case and when sized with a carbide sizer die does not require lube and the cost spread between carbide and steel dies for that cartridge is much much less. Many folks still do lube their straight sided casings sized in carbide but it is a personal choice. I think one could make the argument that much less lube would get a person by with carbide. Also if the loader forgets to lube the session would not end in a stuck case.

Three44s

[granville_it]

Read ++, before you feel comfortable with reloading.

A Lyman book is a good start.

A "good" mentor is a great plus.

For the average reloader, reloading isn't rocket science, unless you want it to be.

Ask questions, this site is great.

Cheers Mark