Do I need tin? These don't look right. Many pics included

[Just Duke]

I fire up the Lee pots today with a new lot of wheel weight lead and I have not got any good bullets. The bullets pictured are from the 500 S&W 450 grain NEI mould and the 540 grain 45-70 is from a vintage NEI mould. The 500 S&W mould is brand new and I cleaned both moulds thoroughly with MEK and a nylon bristol brush after soaking them.
I am wondering while I was skimming my foundry pot If I had skimmed off all the tin because these are not filling out like my 45-70 in a different lot did. I used a thermometer while smelting and carefully watch the temp of the lead in the smelting pot.
I have tried many different tempertures to see if that would help but no dice. I even tride smoking the mould but got the same results.
Little history about me casting; Until recently post joining here I would melt everything in the pot including the zinc wheel weights as I did not know at the time. I was at anytime able to shoot glass Gatorade bottles one right after another, fast! at 50 to 75 yards with my pistol Custom 1911 .45) with any and all bullets that came out of the soup. That's was back when I could see the sights though. [smilie=1:
TIA,
Duke


http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/EBRSOPMODS/LEVER%20ACTION%20SHOOTERS%20SOCIETY/001-6.jpg


http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/EBRSOPMODS/LEVER%20ACTION%20SHOOTERS%20SOCIETY/002-4.jpg

The third bullet has a fleck of lead on it when it fell over but it brushed off.

[Namerifrats]

Some days you just can't get good bullets. Those don't look that bad to me. Just a couple of small bad spots. I usually toss those back in.

[docone31]

It looks like they just need a good stir.
I might not toss those back, they look ok. Better is in front of you, those are not too bad.
Crank up the heat a bit.

[runfiverun]

duke,
for the big boolits you gotta ladle pour.
it seems that about everything over 400 or so just does better this way.
but those will shoot fine.

[BABore]

Try them again at the same temperature with a ladle. Turn the mold 90 degrees, put the spout tight to the sprue plate, and turn the works upright. I'm thinking your fill rate is too slow. Need to get the lead in there faster. Tin rarely solves more problems than it causes, for me. 700 to 775 F pot, get the mold hot so the sprue freezes in approx. 3 seconds, high fill rate, and a healthy sprue solve most things bad.

[Calamity Jake]

Yap like everyone else, them big boolets needs ladle casten above 750° and I will add one other thing!!!! Before you start casten, Flux the fire out of it, that should take care of the inclusions as in the 4th pic, first boolet on left, bottom groove.
You might loose a little tin with the skim, but it won't be much, just remove the big trash first
then flux good then skim the dirt.

[Just Duke]

Like a RCBS ladle?
I flux religously. ;)

[Wayne Smith]

As above, but flux some more also. I see some dirt inclusions in a few of the boolits.

[docone31]

Another point along with Calamity's pointers.
Flux!!!! Stir! especially the corners. That is where the oxides hide. Stir em loose, and cast your brains out.
I had thought I had really clean melt, then I stirred deep into the pot. Wow! Floating blob of crud. Not large, just a bunch of small ones.
I do it every time I melt up.

[deltaenterprizes]

That is about the best you are going to get with WW that only has 1/2% tin. If you want pretty bullets add enough tin to make it 2%,they didn't put all that tin in linotype to just waste money,it was to get good fill out!
You are starting to get frosting indicating mold is getting too hot also.

[Cactus Farmer]

Ditto to flux and stir + ladle pouring is the way to go IMHO. I shoot sillywets and did no real good shootin' until I got out the ladle.
??? What camera are you using ? sure does great closeups!:holysheep

[Just Duke]

:holysheep
Ditto to flux and stir + ladle pouring is the way to go IMHO. I shoot sillywets and did no real good shootin' until I got out the ladle.
??? What camera are you using ? sure does great closeups!

It's a Nikon D50 with a Aspherical Macro lense http://www.photokina-show.com/0419/sigma/slrlens/sigmamacrolens/ OMF GAWD! I just found out the price the wife paid for it. Ouch! I guess that I need to be there when she goes shopping! :holysheep

[John Boy]

Duke - generally speaking, from the looks of your bullets - the molds needs a good cleaning and the mold pins need lubing (or squeeze the handle tighter).

As for smoking a mold - forget about it. Use Micro-90 which will really clean the mold and no smoking is needed. I haven't smoked one in over 3 years since I found the Micro-90 concentrated cleaner. Use a 2 - 5% solution
Free Sample ... http://www.ipcol.com/shopcontent.asp?type=requestsample and be sure to key in a company name and position title

As for the pin lube ... Permatex Anti-Seize

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

It's a Nikon D50 with a Aspherical Macro lense http://www.photokina-show.com/0419/sigma/slrlens/sigmamacrolens/ OMF GAWD! I just found the price the wife paid for it. Ouch! I guess that

LOL

Dave

[Just Duke]

Duke - generally speaking, from the looks of your bullets - the molds needs a good cleaning and the mold pins need lubing (or squeeze the handle tighter).

As for smoking a mold - forget about it. Use Micro-90 which will really clean the mold and no smoking is needed. I haven't smoked one in over 3 years since I found the Micro-90 concentrated cleaner. Use a 2 - 5% solution
Free Sample ... http://www.ipcol.com/shopcontent.asp?type=requestsample and be sure to key in a company name and position title

As for the pin lube ... Permatex Anti-Seize

Some of those I ran the temp up to :twisted: temp so I know about the flashing. I tested with every temp from 625 to 850 running 20 bullets at each setting.
I did clean the heck out of both moulds 3 times with MEK.

[Just Duke]

This looks like the solvent http://www.ipcol.com/shopexd.asp?id=15
I tried to down load the MSDS safety sheet but link had been dropped. Wanted to see If I could make it up or if was a petroleum distillate base.

[Maven]

Duke, I don't think the problem can be traced to either a "dirty" mold or temperature problems. Rather, I'd try the ladle if you haven't already, add only enough Sn to bring your alloy to 1% Sn, and flux your melt some more. Although it has an undeserved reputation for rusting everything in sight, I'd suggest Marvelux (Brownells): No smoke, no stink, and it does an excellent job removing impurities. Save the black goo that forms and add it to your next smelting operation before you turn the heat on.

[Just Duke]

Duke, I don't think the problem can be traced to either a "dirty" mold or temperature problems. Rather, I'd try the ladle if you haven't already, add only enough Sn to bring your alloy to 1% Sn, and flux your melt some more. Although it has an undeserved reputation for rusting everything in sight, I'd suggest Marvelux (Brownells): No smoke, no stink, and it does an excellent job removing impurities. Save the black goo that forms and add it to your next smelting operation before you turn the heat on.

Yes I'm not sure if I could get the mould much cleaner. MEK is pretty much the same thing as brake cleaner and you know how strong that stuff is.
Yes I have used Marvelux for years but stopped because it gooed up my pots so much )when I was younger) that I had a hard time bringing the lead up to the desired temperture.

[Just Duke]

I just got off the phone with Ranger Rick and he said he uses the Lyman ladle.
The RCBS ladle seems to be bigger though. Here are the reviews.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=283142&t=11082005
Average Customer Rating:



John Kessler of Kansas City, Ks
Date Posted: 7/26/2008Well made cast iron holds heat well and is large enough to make multiple casts on small bullet molds and single casts on large bullets. I drilled out the pour hole a little and now it pours just a little faster, which is what I wanted. Has a good wood handle which hasn't come loose, and is long enough to keep you away from the heat.
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Robert Williams of Westmoreland, Ks
Date Posted: 1/24/2005I drilled, tapped the oppsite side of the dipper and moved the handle for left hand use then I ground the heat fin off because I have a shallow lead pot and have came up with the best dipper I have used yet. I cast various bullets, balls and sinkers. The best thing about this dipper other than it's good quality is that it holds plenty of lead to fill multi cavity molds with out having to dip twice.
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Lee Miller of Shawnee mission, KS
Date Posted: 10/12/2004When I received this dipper I couldn't be happier, it's just larger than my current lyman dipper to make a huge differnce in being able to keep pouring lead on top of the moulds to keep the cut off plate hot to give the cavities lead to draw in as it cools. Buy this one over the lyman dipper, you will be much happier with this one. My bullets come out well filled and sharp cornered.
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Jeff Moore of Harrah, OK
Date Posted: 10/1/2003Very well made! Like the pre-heat fin on the bottom and the ease of pour.
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Michael Pfeiffer of Russellville, AR
Date Posted: 3/10/2002Great lead dipper, especially for deep pots. Holds enough for even my big brown bess .735 lead balls.

[Maven]

Duke, While it's true that Marvelux does form an unappealing deposit in lead pots, it is also true that it can easily be removed with boiling water. Either add boiling water to a cool, empty pot, let stand for 15 mins. or so and scrub the sides with a metal brush; or add water and bring it to a boil in the pot. Repeat either procedure as necessary.

[Just Duke]

Well the good thing is have just thrown all my Boo Boo's back in the pot for remelting and waiting for ladles to arrive. Two, so the wife can help out. ;)

[Just Duke]

I am going to build a sprue cooling fan tomorrow with a PBNO switch so when I set the moulds on it the fan will acuate. Like the Magma has.

[Leadforbrains]

Duke I use an RCBS Ladle and it works great. I get good fillout and my hollowpoints from my Lyman Devastator mold turn out perfect. I did drill out the hole in mine just a touch.

[Blammer]

wehn you flux stir it in a bunch, then flux some more, stirring with a wooden stick helps too.

[shotman]

the adding of tin will help but i dont know what you use for flux The best thing for all alloys is the ALLOY flux you can get it from brownell or your welding supply DO NOT use draino That flux will bring alot of trash up that Bwax or the others dont. The next thing READ the info because it will splater if you dont sprinkle it on top. I took my Lee pot and sand blasted inside put a coat of mold release on it and now it stays clean to the bottom. shotman

[anachronism]

All I can suggest is to go back to basics. Clean the moulds again, smoke the cavities with either stick matches or a butane lighter, I'm not a fan of coatings. Flux, flux, flux. Then ladle cast, one cavity at a time. Let the excess alloy run over the hole in the sprue plate. This slows the freezing of the bullet a bit plus provides plenty of hot alloy in case the bullet draws more alloy in by shrinking a bit as it freezes. Then do the next cavity (assuming multiple cavity moulds). I don't think you have dirty alloy, your inclusions look more like fine air bubbles to me. I had this problem with bottom pour pots and now I only ladle cast.

[Jon K]

Duke,

Wife's helping out?
Nikon D-50?.........Discontinued, might be time for an upgrade? Huh?..................D-200, D-300

Jon

[randyrat]

Are you 100% your not dropping those heavy bullets on a rough dirty cloth when they are very hot. I just did this tonight and one side of the bullet looks like hell and the other side looks perfect. I was using a cloth that was not 100% cotton, rough, dirty. Just an idea.

[w30wcf]

Duke,
+++++++on the ladle. My big. heavy bullets looked similar to yours from a bottom pour pot. Switched to a ladle and viola! nice looking, well filled out bullets.

I disagree about multiple fluxing during a session. I flux once to remove the impurities, then just skim any build up of dross as the session progresses.

Have fun!
w30wcf

[Jon K]

Duke,

Ladle pour/25:1 lead:tin
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l101/Jon_K_2006/DSC_0002-19.jpg

Jon

[wills]

Like a RCBS ladle?
I flux religously. ;)

RCBS or Lyman

http://www.buffaloarms.com/prodimg/RCB80015.jpg

http://www.buffaloarms.com/prodimg/LYM2867790.jpg

[Bullshop]

OH man if I say sumthin its just gonna get folks all riled up. Just remember Duke theres always more then one way ta skin a cat.
I only bottom pour so I guess all you ladle pourers make better boolits then me. Oh dang there I went shootin ma mouth off again. When am I ever goaan learn?
Blessings
BIC/BS

[Bullshop]

Jon K
Is that the best ya got? The bands aint filled out!
OH man I went and done it now! Forgive me?
Blessings
BIC/BS

[PatMarlin]

One set of initals Duke....

CFF


Boys and girls, this is the best $21 you will ever spend on your casting activities!

"I spent yesterday casting and what a pleasure the Flake Flux is to use! My alloy has never looked so clean and my bullets so bright. My pot was even easy to clean out at the end of the session! 20# worth!"

[Bullshop]

OK I am going to give a direct answer to your question, NO you do not need more tin.
Buy me a ticket and I will come show ya how to make perfect boolits with your bottom pour with no tin at all.
Yea so maybe I am being an arogant jerk, but I can do it. It dont mean I make majic it just means I spent enough time at it to learn how. I have tried to share my ways but they seem to go against the flow so dont nobody listen. Thats OK you can make good boolits them other ways too. Still ya gotta learn how and ya know experiance is the best teacher. Sorry for acting such a jerk folks. I am goin back in my cave and not comin out for a few months.
BIC/BS

[Just Duke]

I'm thinking drilling out the orifce on the Lee to a larger diameter might work.

[Bullshop]

Duke
That may not help, may even make it worse. One big differance between bottom pour and ladle pour is splash. This is especailly true with antimonial alloys such as WW.
By splash I mean when the first alloy hits the bottom of the cavity and is still molten it splashis back upward as it begins to cool and harden. All this adjitation causes oxidation which is partly what you are seeing on the surface of your boolits.
In ladle pouring there is little to no splashing because of the way the alloy flows into the mold as the mold and ladle are turned together.
You can prevent most of the splashing with a bottom pour by not pouring directly into the sprue hole. You have to run the alloy and mold hot so the alloy will stay fluid while it is drizzled in. The method is to begin the pour at some point on the sprue plate beside the hole while holding the mold at a slight angle so the stream will run into the hole and down the side of the cavity just as it would when ladle pouring. You have to develop a timeing thing for this because you want to at about two thirds full finish the pour in the hole so you have some pour pressure just as you would by holding a full ladle against the mold.
The big advantage to bottom pouring is speed. Most people feel that equal quality boolits can not be made by bottom pouring but I do not feel that way. Once you learn to make equal quality boolits bottom pouring why not take advantage of the speed of bottom pouring. Its real easy to figure ya know, would I rather get 200 boolits per hour or 300. As long as they are of equal quality there is no question. The reason most go to ladle pouring the big ones is it may be easier to learn but doing things the easy way has gotten our country in a lot a trouble. If you are persistant and understand the why to whats happening and how to prevent you will learn to make excellent boolits with that bottom pour pot. Hope I have been of some help.
Blessings
BIC/BS

[Just Duke]

Duke
That may not help, may even make it worse. One big differance between bottom pour and ladle pour is splash. This is especailly true with antimonial alloys such as WW.
By splash I mean when the first alloy hits the bottom of the cavity and is still molten it splashis back upward as it begins to cool and harden. All this adjitation causes oxidation which is partly what you are seeing on the surface of your boolits.
In ladle pouring there is little to no splashing because of the way the alloy flows into the mold as the mold and ladle are turned together.
You can prevent most of the splashing with a bottom pour by not pouring directly into the sprue hole. You have to run the alloy and mold hot so the alloy will stay fluid while it is drizzled in. The method is to begin the pour at some point on the sprue plate beside the hole while holding the mold at a slight angle so the stream will run into the hole and down the side of the cavity just as it would when ladle pouring. You have to develop a timeing thing for this because you want to at about two thirds full finish the pour in the hole so you have some pour pressure just as you would by holding a full ladle against the mold.
The big advantage to bottom pouring is speed. Most people feel that equal quality boolits can not be made by bottom pouring but I do not feel that way. Once you learn to make equal quality boolits bottom pouring why not take advantage of the speed of bottom pouring. Its real easy to figure ya know, would I rather get 200 boolits per hour or 300. As long as they are of equal quality there is no question. The reason most go to ladle pouring the big ones is it may be easier to learn but doing things the easy way has gotten our country in a lot a trouble. If you are persistant and understand the why to whats happening and how to prevent you will learn to make excellent boolits with that bottom pour pot. Hope I have been of some help.
Blessings
BIC/BS


Well that makes sense. Now I got it.

[Just Duke]

Ok so I'm going to add tin to my 500 lbs of sticky-on WW's and come up with 20-1. The sticky-on's are so close to pure lead I am just going to ignore any other minute materials that might be in it and cast the 540 grain 45-70 Sharps bullets with it and use a .....drum roll........LADLE! :-D
YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN A GREAT HELP!
This is information not found in any text.
It should be renamed "Ladle pour or Fail" and made a sticky.
I will post pics of the ladle poured bullet post aquiring the RCBS ladles.

[Just Duke]

Now those are perfect!!!


Duke,

Ladle pour/25:1 lead:tin
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l101/Jon_K_2006/DSC_0002-19.jpg

Jon

[BABore]

I would recommend the RCBS ladle. It holds more than the Lyman and also has a fin on the bottom for moving dross aside. Check the hole diameter in the spout. Drill it out to 0.160 if necessary. This will get you a high flow rate.

[montana_charlie]

Now those are perfect!!!Three of them look quite good, but the short one on the right has very round corners on the lower driving bands. I think Bullshop noticed that, but he's being sarcastic, this time out.
CM

[deltaenterprizes]

See how purdy a little tin makes them! That 25:1 equals 4% tin,you can get the same tin content with a 50/50 lead/lino mix and you will have some antimony also,that is the alloy I like to use.

[Bullshop]

Your right Charly Sorry! I just had a wild hair last night, apologies to all!!! Forgivness requested.
I think it might have been the cookies the kids made last night. Everything was good until they brought me a couple at the computer.
No offence ment or intended, I just had something inside that I wanted to get out but went about it the wrong way. Dang I wish I could be more like Jesus. Far less than perfect here.
Blessings
BIC/BS

[ktw]

No offence ment or intended, I just had something inside that I wanted to get out but went about it the wrong way.

I have seen you mention your bottom pour casting techniques a couple of times over the years. Bits and pieces, never a comprehensive treatment of the subject.

I am interested in hearing more. How about you start a new thread; a how-to covering the topic in detail. Something destined to hit the "classics and sticky's" section of the site.

-ktw

[Just Duke]

See how purdy a little tin makes them! That 25:1 equals 4% tin,you can get the same tin content with a 50/50 lead/lino mix and you will have some antimony also,that is the alloy I like to use.

Oh yea!

[RANGER RICK]

Duke

Nice chatting with you yesterday.
I told you I use Lyman Thus it is not the truth !! All of my Ladles are RCBS , sorry for the confusion.

RR

[Hipshot]

Your lead is not hot enough (shiny bullets-hotter is better!)

Try keeping your mold further away from a bottom pour pot-the lead gets a little more velocity !

Hipshot

[Jon K]

Daniel,

"Not Perfect.......Just Frogiven"

Sights & parts sent today.

Jon

[Leadforbrains]

Your right Charly Sorry! I just had a wild hair last night, apologies to all!!! Forgivness requested.
I think it might have been the cookies the kids made last night. Everything was good until they brought me a couple at the computer.
No offence ment or intended, I just had something inside that I wanted to get out but went about it the wrong way. Dang I wish I could be more like Jesus. Far less than perfect here.
Blessings
BIC/BS

I think you are conducting yourself like a gentleman with an opinion. Everyone has their own way of doing things. That is a good thing because we all get to learn something new about what we love to do.:castmine:

[leftiye]

"[Daniel,

"Not Perfect.......Just Frogiven."]

Jon"

That's how it's gotta be, or we're all outta luck.

[Just Duke]

Duke

Nice chatting with you yesterday.
I told you I use Lyman Thus it is not the truth !! All of my Ladles are RCBS , sorry for the confusion.

RR

OOPS!!! lol
Yes it was good talking to you too Ranger Rick. The wife and I are looking forward to hunting with you sir.

[Bullshop]

KTW
I think perhaps I am not capable. Its a strugle for me to remain cohearent for just a couple paragraphs. I tend to drift and forget what it was I started out to say.
Maybe if I start jotting down notes when a thought pops into my head. Thats kinda the way it goes for me the thoughts just drift in and out and my efforts to hold them seem of little use. Maybe just bits and peaces is all I am good for.
Sure would be nice though if I could gather up all thats floating arround in my head about casting and put it together so someone else could use it. Takes a life time to learn then you take it with you when you go.
My boys are learning though.
BIC/BS

[ktw]

KTW
I think perhaps I am not capable. Its a strugle for me to remain cohearent for just a couple paragraphs.

Outline the major steps first, then go back and fill in the details about each step.

Or just get started with a paragraph or two and let the questions the rest of us have lead you through the rest of it. It would be helpful to have it all in one thread rather than chasing your posts down all over the site trying to piece it together.


My boys are learning though.

Documenting Dad's casting process would be a good homeschool project for them.

-ktw

[Namerifrats]

I have a Lyman Ladle and have only used it twice. That's twice as in two dips and two pours. I have 800 bullets casted for my 500 S&W and bottom poured them all. I don't agree that using a ladle is the only way. Mine are flawless after the first 4-5 drops and the moulds starts dropping perfect bullets. All bottom poured. I do hold the mould about an inch below the spout and drop directly into a 5 gal bucket of cold water. Maybe that has something to do with it.

[Wayne Smith]

Documenting Dad's casting process would be a good homeschool project for them.

-ktw

From Daniel Jr's posts I haven't gotten the impression he needs homework. That young man seems to keep himself busy. A joint project, however, may just be the ticket to get it all out in a comprehensive way. You and Jr. both do outlines, add to and annotate each others, get all and sundry to comment, and use all that to put together a paper.

Actually, Daniel, you do write rather well. You are not intending to publish this in the New Yorker, after all. Just get the information in readable form, that's all you need.

[Just Duke]

Now I'm just waiting for RCBS to send the ladles. :violin:

[Bret4207]

Duke- My favorite lade for big boolits or big gang moulds, like the 358 Bator, it a 1 lb Rowell lade with the handle shortened. The RCBS would be a close 3rd. #2 you ask? A former soup ladle bent up a bit and with handle attached. Holds about 1 lb too.

You need to clean your molds again. MEK, toxic garbage that it is, is a great cleaner, but sometimes plain old soap and water (boiling) works better. You'll also find that as your pot ages you'll get more garbage floating around. I think it's rust or oxidation from the pot itself. My dross dropped to maybe 20% of what it was when I went stainless for a pot.

Don't worry about "shiney" boolits. Shiney might sell better, but it doesn't make a better boolit. Fill out, low weight variation/lack of voids, and a nice base are the goals. If it's frosted and that bothers you just take a swipe at the boolit with some 4/0 steel wool and it'll be shiney.

Daniel- THAT was nasty????!! Thanks for holding yourself to a higher standard than some, like me for example. I wouldn't worry about it.

[montana_charlie]

Namerifrats,
As you know, the primary focus on this forum could be described as "pour liquid metal in a hot hole, then see what drops out when you split the hole open"
Members pour into a huge variety of 'holes', and shove the results through an equally wide variety of 'tight-fitting tubes'.

Sometimes, they post pictures of how those solidified hunks of metal perform on paper targets. Two guys may post near-identical pictures. Let's say those are two ten-round groups at twenty-five yards...and both are 4-inch groups.
One shows the peformance of a guy's .45 caliber Ruger Vaquero, and the other is from a shooter's .45 caliber Ruger Number 1.

If I didn't mind hurting some feelings, I would commend the pistolero for a fine performance, and ridicule the rifle shooter for sloppy work.

My point is, much of what is posted here appies to a particular area of shooting, but what that area is may not be clear to the reader unless he is paying close attention.
How that point relates to your comment is this...

Most of the people who advocate the use of ladles for casting are pouring bullets as big as your thumb. Those bullets are (mostly) meant to be used in single-shot rifles, where adding a quarter inch to a 100-yard group is an undesireable event...and the need for a follow-up shot while hunting is almost a form of failure.

Some get satisfactory results from the bottom spout when making their 500 grainers...but most do not.
On the other hand a majority of casters, like yourself, prefer to use the 'pot drain' for making a huge range of smaller bullets.
So, when you voice your disagreement with those who prefer to dip, you are basing your opinion on goals which don't relate to those of the 'die-hard dippers'.

Yes, there's more than one way to skin a cat. But there's a difference between house cats and cougars...
CM

[Just Duke]

RCBS lead dippers arrived today. Thanks guys. :-D

[wilddog45]

Nice lookin boolits DUKE. I just bought abought 14lbs of virgin tin and and have a few hundred pounds of pure sheet lead that was taken out of a hospital x-ray room. Did you use pure lead or ww lead. Also how do I get a mold like that NEI 450gr .500 . Always did like the looks of that one. Was that a custom spec deal or what?:drinks:

[Just Duke]

Just call NEI Handtools. http://www.neihandtools.com/ All moulds there are pretty much custom.
My bullets suck though. :(

[AzShooter]

RCBS ladle is definately bigger than the Lyman. I just bought one to use with my 6 cavity moulds so that I don't have to refill during pouring.

If you are refilling you are not using the same temperature lead for all six cavities.

I see a lot of rounded lube grooves. Up the temp a bit and use some tin to fill them out.

Next, let the mould sit a few more seconds. You are ripping the base of the bullet as seen from the edge of a few pictures, before the lead has a chance to cool. Don't break open the mould right when the lead looks frozen from the sprue.

One trick is to put a wet towel on your table and put the sprue side of the mould on the towel before you break them apart. This will insure that the bullet bottoms are clean and flat.

I use two six cavity moulds while casting this way one is sitting on the cool towel while the other is being filled.

Be sure not to get any water into your hot lead pot.

[Just Duke]

I would recommend the RCBS ladle. It holds more than the Lyman and also has a fin on the bottom for moving dross aside. Check the hole diameter in the spout. Drill it out to 0.160 if necessary. This will get you a high flow rate.

Done! and thanks. :-D

[Just Duke]

Duke,

Wife's helping out?
Nikon D-50?.........Discontinued, might be time for an upgrade? Huh?..................D-200, D-300

Jon

Crikey! I could buy another rifle for what that cost. lol
Besides thanks for helping me today with sight. Guess I'll go withe the Soule MVA and be done with it. I'm running out of stuff to sell and for gawd sakes I do not! want to go back to work. I need to sell some properties and I'll be set.

[AzShooter]

Get the D-300. I love mine.

[Just Duke]

Get the D-300. I love mine.

Can I put that on your charge card AZS?

[Just Duke]

So I fire up the pots today and thought I would give this ladle casting a try. I used the same lead (Wheel Weighs) and poured some 540 grainer. Low and behold they came out looking great after the 20'th round. They still had the frosty color as Jon K and I discussed on the phone being they are made of WW's.
But when I mix up my 20-1 with the 50/50 and the sticky-on's they should be a shootable product.
Big thanks to all specialy seeing I have tentetively a third Shapr on the way.
I bought 100 pounds of 50/50 the other day. $260 delivered! Ouch!

[Just Duke]

Get the D-300. I love mine.
I do have a 35mm Reflex Cannon AE-1 and a miriad of lenses and telephoto lens I should sell or trade off.

[dromia]

The RCBS ladles will serve you well, when I need quantity for dipping I find my 1lb Rowel works best.

[montana_charlie]

So I fire up the pots today and thought I would give this ladle casting a try.
A shooter over on the Shiloh forum posted this little dipper casting video.

He is not a competition shooter, but has a long experience with BPCR shooting.
While not evident in the video, several things are (pretty much) guaranteed to be true.
- He is using an alloy that has no antimony.
- His bullets are shiney.
- His pot temperature is well below 800 degrees...maybe below 700.
- His main interest is bullet quality...not quantity.
- He has tried a bottom pour pot...with unsatisfactory results.
(I will attempt to verify these factors if you ask me to.)

http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/Sharps110/BPCR%20SHOOTING%20RELOADING/?action=view&current=CastingGoodBullets.flv
CM

[Meatco1]

Dan (Bull Shop), I for one take your information to heart everytime I read one of your posts.

When a man who cast's for a living speaks, I feel it's time for me to listen.

Respects,

Richard

[Just Duke]

A shooter over on the Shiloh forum posted this little dipper casting video.

He is not a competition shooter, but has a long experience with BPCR shooting.
While not evident in the video, several things are (pretty much) guaranteed to be true.
- He is using an alloy that has no antimony.
- His bullets are shiney.
- His pot temperature is well below 800 degrees...maybe below 700.
- His main interest is bullet quality...not quantity.
- He has tried a bottom pour pot...with unsatisfactory results.
(I will attempt to verify these factors if you ask me to.)

http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/Sharps110/BPCR%20SHOOTING%20RELOADING/?action=view&current=CastingGoodBullets.flv
CM

Thanks a bunch for the video MC. That just confirms that I was doing my pouring right. I read on another forum where a fella uses a scale after the bullets drop out.

http://www.longrangebpcr.com/Part1.htm

[Just Duke]

Ladle poured with WW's.
Much better and thanks all.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/EBRSOPMODS/LEVER%20ACTION%20SHOOTERS%20SOCIETY/575-1.jpg

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/EBRSOPMODS/LEVER%20ACTION%20SHOOTERS%20SOCIETY/576-1.jpg

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/EBRSOPMODS/LEVER%20ACTION%20SHOOTERS%20SOCIETY/574-1.jpg

[Wayne Smith]

I would say that success has visited and is likely to stay.

[Chunky Monkey]

WOW Those are nice Duke!! [smilie=w:

[Just Duke]

Thanks guys! I owe it all to your help! :-D

[Just Duke]

BTT for the new guys. This is some good info I've learned.

[Just Duke]

Can we move this to the BP section mods?