Anyone use bullet blocks for cap and ball?

[fishingsetx]

Just curious if anyone uses bullet blocks to make loading cap and ball rifles easier in the field. I have been working on a design for one for my .32 cal squirrel rifle but havent had a chance to test it out. Here is what I have so far. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181104/9033c942ec90d4b79e9de4c9b7cde73c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181104/0c79e15c6a51bb9ebb6277a25ed2ab94.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181104/87a410c11cb12877a00fc608b9feaecd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181104/4dbc0768dad695700acaaf40af5aa8d1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181104/c5404bf840edffbaf4c849df35b9b689.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181104/9ae1a2c66c86bb6277685526c9f0b985.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181104/8319eac510f8bf5e1a2d567526d16d4c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181104/0758aae12a6c61af2e9f7fc3df4c0dd7.jpg

Guns have only two enemies: rust and politicians!

[country gent]

I use a simple hard wood block with holes for the patched ball and a recess for the muzzle end of the barrel to center. These hold 5-10 balls. The wood is finished with a hard epoxy finish soI can run patched ball or a lubed bullet with out staining the wood.

[fishingsetx]

Yea I thought about making a wood block, but this was easier (3D printer). I also thought about recessing the block in the design but im hoping the ball sticking out of the block helps center it. Trying to make it robust enough to beat around while stalking squirrels but quick enough for fast follow up shots if needed. Its a work in progress for sure.

Guns have only two enemies: rust and politicians!

[country gent]

Maybe add a small blind holes along the edge for the caps also. Since the next step after seating the ball is capping this might be handy also.

[rfd]

i always use ball boards, but since plastic isn't an 18th century material, i use that nifty all purpose substance we call wood. :veryconfu :bigsmyl2:

229868

229869

[fishingsetx]

Maybe add a small blind holes along the edge for the caps also. Since the next step after seating the ball is capping this might be handy also.Thats a good idea!

As for plastic vs wood, i do make my own powder and cast my own round ball, but when im hunting, Ive got rubber boots, a baseball cap, synthetic clothes, blaze orange, plastic water bottle, etc etc. Chances are, my rifle has been chemically blued and ployurathane coated. Dont bother me a bit to have a plastic bullet block! Once perfected, Ill print it with wood PLA, stain and seal it to match my wood stocked crockett rifle! [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

Guns have only two enemies: rust and politicians!

[indian joe]

i always use ball boards, but since plastic isn't an 18th century material, i use that nifty all purpose substance we call wood. :veryconfu :bigsmyl2:

229868

229869

Yup!! and while the printer is foolin around trying to figure out how to turn itself on after old mate pressed the go switch - we would have our piece of wood drilled and ready to go:bigsmyl2:

[Eddie2002]

I've made a bunch of them for my .50 caliber ML's out of walnut. Drilled the half inch holes in some 3/4 x 1 1/4 inch scrap and ripped it down the middle to 3/8 thickness which allows the patched ball to stick out just enough to align in the muzzle. They come in handy doing a wood walk.

[Tom W.]

I made one a looooong time ago. I do believe it's still in the woods somewhere close to Eufaula.....I ended up getting some Butler Creek and I think some Blue & Gray tubes....

[pietro]

Just curious if anyone uses bullet blocks to make loading cap and ball rifles easier in the field.




Just a friendly FYI : In over 55 years, you're the 1st person I've ever heard mention something called a "cap & ball (C&B) rifle" - a term (C&B) usually reserved for percussion repeating revolvers.

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[RogerDat]

Just a friendly FYI : In over 55 years, you're the 1st person I've ever heard mention something called a "cap & ball (C&B) rifle" - a term (C&B) usually reserved for percussion repeating revolvers.

.
What would be appropriate? Cap lock vs Flint lock or just muzzle loader? I noticed that one of the suggestions was for where to put percussion caps on the ball holder so the method of ignition does matter at least somewhat to the discussion. I don't recall hearing the term C & B used with long guns either but it was relevant. Just curious on how to express.

[fishingsetx]

Just a friendly FYI : In over 55 years, you're the 1st person I've ever heard mention something called a "cap & ball (C&B) rifle" - a term (C&B) usually reserved for percussion repeating revolvers.

.Noted so maybe I wont sould like such a newbie.

Being new to the whole muzzleloader game, that was the best way I could come up with to describe a caplock rifle (if that is the proper term). Still uses a percussion cap and a round ball, so technically it is a cap and ball. I do have a pietta repro of 1858 new model army that would be considered a cap and ball!

I also found out a couple years ago that shooting the pistol at an indoor gun range on a busy saturday morning was pretty frowned upon even if you were using smokeless powder! I cant imagine how they would have reacted if I was using my home brew black powder!

The bullet blocks work great both at the range and in the field. Took a couple to the squirrel woods last weekend! I am going to redesign the base with a slot rather than individual holes. That way I can slide the bullet block out to load a ball without having to pull the whole thing apart.

Had a few misfires so now I just gotta figure out a way to make the caps ignite the powder more reliably without having to pour a little powder under the nipple.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181115/5895f59160b2c1fb60a1797bed55466e.jpg

Guns have only two enemies: rust and politicians!

[RogerDat]

Caplock and Flintlock are common ways to describe the ignition mechanism which is reflected in the hammer design.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lock_(firearm)

Funny that Wikipedia page explains where the term lock, stock, and barrel came from. The rifle consists of those three parts. All three are a "complete" unit, thus "bought it lock, stock, and barrel" is a way of saying they bought the whole thing. Much the same as hook, line, and sinker.

Those 1858 new model army revolvers are fun. Indoor range eh? Bet you were one popular fellow. I also like the 3D printed design you have going. There is a technology that is really opening up some possibilities. Nice to see those possibilities applied to shooting sports. And no I don't mean printed guns. I could make better out of scrap metal in the garage. Reloading parts such as powder baffles, or micro charge disks, or guides and hangers for press accessories. Now your round ball loader. Cool beans as they say. Keep us posted as you refine.

[fishingsetx]

Caplock and Flintlock are common ways to describe the ignition mechanism which is reflected in the hammer design.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lock_(firearm)

Funny that Wikipedia page explains where the term lock, stock, and barrel came from. The rifle consists of those three parts. All three are a "complete" unit, thus "bought it lock, stock, and barrel" is a way of saying they bought the whole thing. Much the same as hook, line, and sinker.

Those 1858 new model army revolvers are fun. Indoor range eh? Bet you were one popular fellow. I also like the 3D printed design you have going. There is a technology that is really opening up some possibilities. Nice to see those possibilities applied to shooting sports. And no I don't mean printed guns. I could make better out of scrap metal in the garage. Reloading parts such as powder baffles, or micro charge disks, or guides and hangers for press accessories. Now your round ball loader. Cool beans as they say. Keep us posted as you refine.Thanks and yes, there are a lot of items coming out of the 3d printing world that are pretty innovative! Im a complete novice on that too, but I still dabble in it. The bullet block was my first ground up design, but I have printed a few items that someone else came up with.

I also agree on the 3d printed guns! Much ado about nothing. They have the uncanny ability to self destruct! There are some folks making 10/22 uppers and AR lowers that are getting some serious round counts, but it would be MUCH simpler, cheaper, and safer to just buy an 80% lower and finish it.

A couple other gun related items ive printed (angled fore grips, ammo boxes and speed loader).

Im having some issues with the printer right now, but once I get it going again, im going to do some more modifying on the bullet block. Eventually I want to get to the point where the powder charge, cap, ball, and patch are all in one. Basically you set it up with 10 rounds and all you do is push the load into the bore, ram it down, cap it and fire. Still havent quite figured the powder out but I have some ideas!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181116/1fe0354422e742443e5887234b10486a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181116/0261fb662fae2617068a91424d8a245e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181116/287a101b8a73c6f1df5447fd4d51e9f0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181116/13a709e571f4022aa76155c792389b5a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181116/b0479e3ff0dcd8a47bd7e1d9d2d536e3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181116/dc90fc0f5f87baf085be2283754c4ead.jpg

Guns have only two enemies: rust and politicians!

[RogerDat]

I think the tubes with a charge would be hard to beat but there are a lot of ways to solve the ball, patch and primer issue. With room for improvement and innovation.

The tapered rod used to roll paper cartridges combined with a strip that held caps would be the cats whiskers. People make those rods out of wood dowel sanded down, or there was at one time a brass rod with handle sold as part of a very expensive kit.

Enfield Mandrel shown here. Has fairly straight sides
https://www.papercartridges.com/authentic-cartridges.html

But revolver paper cartridges they have a taper. People do assorted work around or home brew solutions for.
http://www.mathcs.duq.edu/~vergot/civilwar/

Always planned to try paper cartridges one day. Pistol cartridges originally came with a strip of some sort that held primers.

[pietro]

Noted so maybe I wont sould like such a newbie.

Had a few misfires so now I just gotta figure out a way to make the caps ignite the powder more reliably without having to pour a little powder under the nipple




You shouldn't have to put powder under the nipple, unless the main charge doesn't ignite for whatever reason, and you need to get it emptied w/o resorting to a ball puller/worm.

It looks like your rifle's nipple seats into snail built into the breech - which means that the ignition spark has to turn some corners before it reaches the main charge.

Reliable ignition requires a clear/clear ignition channel, the proper cap fully seated on the nipple, and no crud build up in the hammer nose.



I may be preaching to the choir, but since you said you're a newbie...………………………… :)


IME, presuming the ignition channel got properly cleaned when you last cleaned the gun,the best way to load your rifle is:

1) Dump the powder charge downbore w/o (mouth) blowing down the barrel to see it the ignition channel's clear (breath contains moisture - NG for powder/ignition).

2) Before loading the PRB (patched round ball), hold the rifle vertically with the muzzle "up" with one hand and smack the side of the snail area with the other hand to "urge" a little of the main charge to migrate from the powder chamber into the lower part of the snail.

3) Seat the PRB after starting it downbore with a long, steady, smooth stroke until you feel the PRB hit the powder.

4) Perform the final PRB seating while the RR's still in the bore via pressing the PRB down with a hard squeeze (do not pound on the RR)



Now, when you cap the nipple, you should be GTG.



If you're doing multiple shots at a range, I would suggest keeping a small plastic bottle of Windex or T/C's Ox-Yoke #10 bore cleaner (aka: Moose Milk) & a few cleaning patches - so the bore can be wiped every few shots. (slightly wet a patch, then dry the bore with dry patches B 4 loading again)


Please keep us posted on your progress with your ignition issues.

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[Baltimoreed]

I used a circular piece of 1/8 inch rubber gasket material to hold my caps. Just punched undersized holes in it near the edge and pushed the caps in. Hung it on a lanyard with a bigger hole. Also made bullet loading blocks out of oak but had plastic tubes for my powder that lived in a cartridge pouch on my belt with a wood insert that held 6 tubes.

[pietro]

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I've long used an inline cap holder, with a leather thong, for capping my rifles.

https://www.muzzle-loaders.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1200x/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/t/h/thompson-center-209-capper.jpg


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[RogerDat]

I was taught that first thing before loading fire a cap at a leaf, some pulled grass, or a pile of dust lying on the ground. Insures that you have a clear primer channel through to the bore before the powder and ball go in. I think after a bit you would be able to spot the reduced movement of the debris or dirt and know you needed to run a cleaning tool through or wash it better.

Thanks pietro for that well described step by step set of instructions. There were a few take-away items in there for sure. Still learning new stuff about BP firearms.

I know some people change nipples to use a more common percussion cap. Has anyone done a compare of say #11 and musket caps (w/wings) as to which produces more flash?

[fishingsetx]

.

I've long used an inline cap holder, with a leather thong, for capping my rifles.

https://www.muzzle-loaders.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1200x/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/t/h/thompson-center-209-capper.jpg


.That is the same capper I use.

I also fire a cap before loading the first round. The only difference in my loading sequence is I dont tap on the snail before I load the PRB. Makes perfect sense and Ill start doing that. Id say out of 15 or so rounds, I may have 2 or 3 misfire (cap pops but doesnt ignite the powder) and once it misfires, consecutive caps still wont ignite the powder. When this happens, I normally pull the nipple, pour a bit of powder in the snail, reinstall the nipple and it fires.

Guns have only two enemies: rust and politicians!

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

Looks like a pretty creative idea. I use good ol' wood. But maybe if I had a 3-D printer. . .

One thing that I do is I make the blocks thicker-than-caliber. Using a thicker block allows me to push the ball flush into the block, then run a patch knife across to cut the patch material. It's similar to cutting the patch at the muzzle only I do it on the block.

I don't so much have in mind "fast follow ups" as much as the ability to load without removing my gloves/mittens. Big blocks, cappers, lanyards, they all help. If you can load and shoot without ever removing your gloves it is incredible how much more pleasant winter shooting becomes. I actually like my muzzleloaders in winter better than suppository guns.

[Moleman-]

I've always given my hawkens a tap on the lock side with my boot after dumping the powder in similar to what others are doing. Also the best caps I've found are the German made Dynamit Nobel/RWS caps that sound like a 22lr and not like you shot a cap gun.

[toot]

WOW!! that's the cat's MEOW!! i rely like it . you are on the rite track, as far as i am concerned. i for one am going to make up the ball starter. keep it up.

[ogre]

.

I've long used an inline cap holder, with a leather thong, for capping my rifles.

https://www.muzzle-loaders.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1200x/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/t/h/thompson-center-209-capper.jpg


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I'm not into fashion or style so much but wearing a leather thong has got to cause chafing. Am I right?

[bigted]

�� sheesh.

[sharps4590]

Persuckshun....that's what some of us call them newfangled rifles what don't need no flint.

I've made and used some bullet blocks, always of wood and, they work admirably. Probably some 25-30 years ago I went back to loading from the bag. It's a little slower, sure, but I ain't in the woods huntin' squirrels as a speed contest. If I wanted a fast second shot I'd be using the Mod. 74 Winchester I inherited from Dad or even my Jeffrey Rook Rifle.