Hornady Ammo Plant shim question

[stanford]

I have recently been reading about an issue that the ammo plant has that seems to affect me a bit, case tilting etc. I saw a few posts where folks are measuring the distance of the drive hub and something else in order to put a shim in there. I am not completely understanding the posts or their explanations on what they are measuring to get the shim size.

Has anyone had to shim their drive hub on the ammo plant? Can you explain what needs to be measured or even show some pics. I still can't find a video of this at all.


Thanks.

[XDROB]

Following

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[Carrier]

https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/How-to-tune-the-Hornady-Lock-N-Load-AP-progressive-press/42-414607/?page=1

[stanford]

Thats the first thread I read, I still dont understand what they are measuring without actually seeing of what he is doing.

[Blindshooter]

That was the one modification I did to my LnL that kept me from selling it. Fixed the inconsistent primer seat depth, case tipping and most all of the shell plate snap or jump. The link Carrier posted is about as good as it gets. I think I used a .008 shim on my press. You can use feeler gauges to see how much gap you have under the shell plate with the nut tight. I wound up with about .003-.004 from about .012 before the fix. I understand not all presses need shimming, just depends on how much tolerance stacking you have going on. The screws holding the sub plate can be hard to get out, make sure your hex wrench is a good fit to avoid damaging the screws. Good luck

[Carrier]

Blndshooter pretty much explained how to if you don’t have a depth micrometer. My LNL always set primers at .0035 to .004 and with a .003 shim it’s always .004 now.

[stanford]

I agree the link is good but not everyone is a machinist. If you tell me to look at someone face or shoulder I will know where it is. But if you are saying to measure the face to shoulder of a piece of metal then I don't get it (whats the face and whats the shoulder?). I have an idea from one of the pictures what they are referring to, I did pull the drive hub upwards lastnight to see how much play it has and I can see what they are talking about now.

When my shim pack arrives in the mail today I will shim the hub until its flush with the sub plate, which will in turn compress the bearings under the shell plate a bit more to prevent anything from jumping when going from station to station. I have read where others have hammered the bearing into the shell plate a bit more, but that would have to be done to all my shell plates.

// You can use feeler gauges to see how much gap you have under the shell plate with the nut tight. I wound up with about .003-.004 from about .012 before the fix.

That bit of information you mentioned there is defintely a lot clearer for the average user. I can always refer back to what you said right there after I shim and tighten everything.

I appreciate you guys chiming in and explaining this a bit more plus your experiences. This definitely helps..

I don't have a depth micrometer, but I am sure I can use the ruler looking end of my caliper to test the depth.


Thanks.

[Three44s]

Thanks guys for bringing this up!

I know of a couple of LNL’s that will get looked at thanks to this thread and link!!

Best regards

Three44s