Is this Lodge cast iron drop biscuit pan good for ingots?

[Russel Nash]

Hi all,

Yeah, just like this one here:

https://secure.lodgemfg.com/storefront/product1_new.asp?menu=prologic&idProduct=3950

I bought one the other day for like $26.

Will it work okay for rough smelting and making ingots?

Said another way.... will the ingots drop out just fine/easily?

I think I have seen here on this forum or maybe another site where guys have used sheet metal biscuit pans and practically had to beat the lead ingots out of 'em, which sounds like a total PITA.

One other question for you all, while I am here....

I have recovered a lot of copper jacketed bullets out of the berms.

When all the bullets are covered with dirt it is kinda difficult to tell the copper ones from the cast lead ones.

If I throw the copper plated ones into my dutch oven and turkey fryer combo for smelting, the lead should just melt out of the exposed base bullets and then the copper jackets will float to the top, right?

If I throw in any fully jacketed bullets, the molten lead has no where else to go, so it stays stuck inside the jacket.

I am guessing I will have to nick them with a file or something like that to get the lead to pour out of the jacket???

Thanks!

[40pa]

Hi all,

Yeah, just like this one here:

https://secure.lodgemfg.com/storefront/product1_new.asp?menu=prologic&idProduct=3950

I bought one the other day for like $26.

Will it work okay for rough smelting and making ingots?

Said another way.... will the ingots drop out just fine/easily?
I would put some water in the cups and let them rust a bit. I have some rusty old tin muffin pans that drop so much better than new non-rusted ones.




One other question for you all, while I am here....

I have recovered a lot of copper jacketed bullets out of the berms.

When all the bullets are covered with dirt it is kinda difficult to tell the copper ones from the cast lead ones.

If I throw the copper plated ones into my dutch oven and turkey fryer combo for smelting, the lead should just melt out of the exposed base bullets and then the copper jackets will float to the top, right?

If I throw in any fully jacketed bullets, the molten lead has no where else to go, so it stays stuck inside the jacket.

I am guessing I will have to nick them with a file or something like that to get the lead to pour out of the jacket???

Thanks!
I just melted down about 15lbs of range lead yesterday and yes, the copper jackets float real nice to the top. I scooped them up with the slotted spoon then kind of shake it around to get any liquid lead out. This drops the dirt back down but it recovers more of the lead. The dirt can be easily removed after all the jackets. As for the solid copper ones that aren't nicked, I have seen other suggestions for using bolt cutters. My last batch only had a few that didn't have the lead melted out, so I am not sure I would go through the hassle, or atleast wait until they're all melted down to find the ones that aren't nicked.

[Pitmaster]

I don't make a huge effort out of it but I save the copper to sell for scrap. I have some access to range lead which helps.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Hi all,

Yeah, just like this one here:

https://secure.lodgemfg.com/storefront/product1_new.asp?menu=prologic&idProduct=3950

I bought one the other day for like $26.

Will it work okay for rough smelting and making ingots?

Said another way.... will the ingots drop out just fine/easily?

I think I have seen here on this forum or maybe another site where guys have used sheet metal biscuit pans and practically had to beat the lead ingots out of 'em, which sounds like a total PITA.


Thanks!

Russel, the ingots will drop out just fine, no pre-rusting necessary(It'll rust by itself, without any help). :-D
The sheet metal biscuit pans have trouble when they're dented. The aluminum ones are so soft, they fold between cups when you try to turn them over.:twisted:
Morgan

[compass will]

I found some Franklin arsenal mold release in those cheep walmart pans works great! No rust needed, and they drop right out. Sure they bend if your not careful, but there almost cheep enough to throw out when your done!

[Bill*]

IIRC the muffin molds you're speaking of that stuck were tin plated so the lead "soldered" itself in! (it was discussed on this forum I believe). .......Bill

[725]

I take the FMJ bullets and smash then on my anvil. Splits the jacket and the lead melts out just fine.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

The mold as pictured and in cast iron should work just fine without any of the lead ingots sticking. That rim lace or border can actually be of benefit as it can be gripped with a pliars and when turned over; the rim(s) can be positioned on two bricks so that the ingots can drop freely into a space below the inverted mold. If you start to cast the ingots too fast then the mold overheats and the ingots start to stick in the mold. (nothing to do with the relationship or interaction between the metals) Some gentle tapping on the bottom of the mold helps, but any harder beating may break something. This sticking can be alleviated to some extent by using some mold release to start with, but the best thing is to let the mold cool off and then cast the ingots slower. Lead will never stick to cast iron or aluminum. On the other question about copper jackets; as long as there is an opening in the jacket, the lead will melt and run out into the melt. Collect the jackets with a ladle and sell them as scrap as the price/value of copper is sky-high. A lot of military jackets are copper plated tin or steel. They're easy to find with a magnet. LLS

[carpetman]

The ingots are too big for my pot---cast iron releases without rusting. For the price you paid you could have bought 2 Lyman ingot molds and been done with it.

[wills]

Hi all,

Yeah, just like this one here:

https://secure.lodgemfg.com/storefront/product1_new.asp?menu=prologic&idProduct=3950

I bought one the other day for like $26.

Will it work okay for rough smelting and making ingots?

Said another way.... will the ingots drop out just fine/easily?

I think I have seen here on this forum or maybe another site where guys have used sheet metal biscuit pans and practically had to beat the lead ingots out of 'em, which sounds like a total PITA.

One other question for you all, while I am here....

Thanks!

Lots of people like the convenience of cornstick pans. Either way, consider haunting garage sales for old used muffin pans. The only one i ever destroyed was a new non stick pan that would not release.

Regarding the virtues of rusty ingot molds.


http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=2809&highlight=leave+rain

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showpost.php?p=31181&postcount=7

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showpost.php?p=31186&postcount=9

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showpost.php?p=31388&postcount=14

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=6344&highlight=rusty+muffin

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showpost.php?p=29467&postcount=20

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=2051&highlight=rusty+muffin

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showpost.php?p=15158&postcount=10

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=1375&highlight=rusty+muffin

[Russel Nash]

Thanks for all of the replies!

carpetman wrote:


The ingots are too big for my pot---cast iron releases without rusting. For the price you paid you could have bought 2 Lyman ingot molds and been done with it.

Oh... okay... thanks.... I still haven't used the biscuit pan yet and it still has the price tag on it, so I should be able to take it back.

My gun club has a dealer's account with one of the distributors and I just looked.

I can get on of those Lyman ingot molds for $13.59, each.

So, hmmn... yeah, I guess I will go that route instead.

I am guessing the Lyman ingots will stack better??

And will fit into my RCBS pot better??

I'm sure I will be back with more, dumb questions later.

Thanks!

[Russel Nash]

Oh.... yeah... I know what I was going to ask:

About making ingots, especially with those Lyman ingot moulds I am going to get...

I bought a new 5 quart cast iron pot labeled "American Camper" (but made in China :( ) .

Do you need a big laddle to fill up those ingot moulds?

Said another way... do I only get one chance to fill up one ingot mould with just one scoop of the laddle?

I am wondering if I need a bigger or deeper smelting pot ( a 10 quart maybe?) so that a bigger laddle could be used to fill those ingot moulds in one shot??

Thanks!

[compass will]

I have been using cheep ladles I buy in the store. Just make sure it's not soldered. I stepped on my last one and ended up riveting a tin can on for the ladle part so I could finish.

I am thinking of buying one like Duke has.
http://www.advancecarmover.com/listing.php?line=Ladles

I like the 3 lbs size, it would fit my operation well

[Russel Nash]

^^^ Yeah... okay thanks.... I was gonna try to skimp and go the cheap-ey route with like a large soup laddle (and a slotted spoon for the dross).

Another dumb question... is there something special about the bottom pour aspect of those laddles?

I did see Duke Nukem's post with the pictures of him using that huge laddle and filling all those ingot moulds.

[EMC45]

OT but I watched the hat camera IDPA stuff. Really cool!

[Firebird]

. is there something special about the bottom pour aspect of those laddles?


Yes, most dirt, crud etc that you are trying to keep skimmed out of the molten lead floats, so if your ladle pours lead from the bottom instead of the top, the lead going into the ingot mold (or bullet mold) is cleaner than if it poured off the top as standard ladles do.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Theres a lot of imported cast iron molds/forms around for all sorts of bread sticks, muffins, and cookies. They're usually marked "Made in Taiwan" or China or some other place. They are relatively inexpensive to start with and moreso if one has the time to stop and fool around in a yard/garage/lawn/attic sale. They will work just fine. $26 is too much to pay when you can get a Lee aluminum ingot mold with a wooden handle from Midsouth Shooters Supply for all of $12. It also doesn't rust. An RCBS version costs more, but still nowhere near 20 bucks. Using a ladle to clean up WW or whatrever you are s/melting is a requirement. The Lee version is comical; it works to some extent but it looks and feels like it was a prize that fell out of a box of Crackerjacks. The RCBS version is a good one but they want to be paid! The one made by Lyman is good enough for cleaning or casting and costs half the price. Open ladles such as used by plumbers are also good, but I don't have any info on prices. You might check E-Bay for a used one. LLS

[Russel Nash]

EMC wrote:


OT but I watched the hat camera IDPA stuff. Really cool!


Thanks!

I also have 3rd person vids of IDPA matches too.

I got tired of video'ing the Safety Officer's and scorekeeper's backs so I brought a ladder along to one match.

Those vids are here:

http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=tackleberry+productions+%2B+benchres t&emb=0&aq=f#

The camera on my hat, I call that the "posercam".

My shooting abilities aren't all that, so I consider it posing.

I got the idea from a guy who put a camera into a set of ear muffs.

He sells them at his hosercam website:

http://hosercam.com/

[Russel Nash]

Okay, now ya guys have done it!

Sounds like I am going to have to get one of those bottom pour laddles.

[wills]

http://www.advancecarmover.com/ladlespic.gif

http://www.advancecarmover.com/ladle.html

[copdills]

looks like it will work well , just about anything made of cast that will allow ingots that will fit in your pot will work

[fourarmed]

Here's one for all you guys who use dutch ovens, cast iron skillets, muffin molds, etc. Do you take any steps to guarantee that somebody 50 years from now doesn't poison themselves by cooking in your equipment when they buy it at your grandkid's yard sale?

[waksupi]

Here's one for all you guys who use dutch ovens, cast iron skillets, muffin molds, etc. Do you take any steps to guarantee that somebody 50 years from now doesn't poison themselves by cooking in your equipment when they buy it at your grandkid's yard sale?

I've kind of wondered this myself, especially when buying old cast iron for home use.
I wonder if lead actually permeates the cast iron, or if a good scrubbing or sand blasting would remove the residue?

[Russel Nash]

I suppose I could take a cone shaped bit chucked in a dremel and carve:


USED FOR CASTING LEAD!

on the outside of the dutch oven.

[MT Gianni]

Many clay pots have been made lead glazing for centuries. My personal thoughts are that the "poisoning" would take 40 or 50 years. It would be best not to experience it but I doubt it would be instant death. Gianni

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

I have two of these:

https://secure.lodgemfg.com/storefront/product1_new.asp?menu=prologic&idProduct=3951

I bought them at a discount and I've been very pleased with them. The ingot size is just about right.

Regards,

Dave

[Russel Nash]

^^^ that's what I have been looking for locally, but nobody has 'em.

I think I'll just buy the Lyman ingot moulds.....

[alamogunr]

I have two of these:

https://secure.lodgemfg.com/storefront/product1_new.asp?menu=prologic&idProduct=3951

I bought them at a discount and I've been very pleased with them. The ingot size is just about right.

Regards,

Dave

I have 5 of these. I found them at a Cabela's while we were on our way to Yellowstone a few years ago. They were closing them out. Yeah! I went a little overboard but I can't resist a bargain. The size is just right and you can make them large or smaller by just not filling to the top. Lodge still makes them and they don't cost $26. Sometimes they are available at the Lodge factory store North of Chattanooga off I-24. It is an interesting stop if you are passing by. I got a dutch oven there at a very good price.