Auto Parts Cost Rant

[sigep1764]

Is it just me or are auto parts getting a little nuts?
Recent purchases:
4 spark plugs for Hyundai Veloster- $14.99 apiece, eventually found a "sale" for $8.99 each. Had to call 15 stores for it.
Catalytic converters with downpipe for 2003 Silverado-$799.99 at local parts shop, eventually found them on Rockauto for $450 shipped.
Spider injector harness with injectors for 2003 Silverado-$599.99 at local parts shop, found on Rockauto for $350 shipped.
Upper and Lower intake manifold gaskets plus labor for 2003 Silverado-$825, had to have done at local shop.
Evap sensor and solenoid plus labor for 2003 Silverado-$585, had to have done at local shop.
Single Brake caliper plus labor and flush for 2003 Silverado- $506, had to have done at local shop.
Brake pads and rotors for 2003 Silverado-$300 from local shop.

All this to sell the truck for $3000 with almost 170k on the clock. It went cheap because its two wheel drive/V-6/5-speed. Ran like a top afterwards. Shoulda just kept the thing. SWMBO said I cant have 2 trucks and a new motorcycle.
I do everything I know how to do plus what I can figure out, I just don't have a garage and theres only so much I can do with 2 nonconsecutive days off a week being a business manager. I shop around to get the best deal on parts and labor, but some shops won't touch parts you bought for them to put on. Not enough profit in labor only. The cost of this stuff is just getting out of hand.

End Rant.

[bob208]

as for parts the internet is your friend. where were you when I was looking for a truck? I got a standard cab 4.3 now. I just did front brakes on the wife's truck, cost to me $25.00. put a water pump on my 4.3 cost $50.00.

[daengmei]

Just had exhaust repair, $340 for replacement past converters, v6 but single main muffler out. Thought it to be a bit loud when they finished, but was quieter than when I drove in. I looked underneath and a slip joint from old to new was not welded or otherwise. There was at least a half inch all around too big on the expanded new pipe. Now that they welded that, I can now hear a smaller breather hole that is somewhere. Going back again.


Welding is something I've not learned but should. I know I would be better at inspecting what I've done.

Oh yea, just outside of Ft. Knox, they are expensive for anything here, especially dealer work. The muffler guy told me they do work for the dealers on exhaust. They must inflate that for a chunk profit.

[sigep1764]

Absolutely the internet is our friend when looking for parts. Some of the above was too time consuming and with no garage, it adds to the difficulty. We are saving for a downpayment on a house and told the woman of the house there will be a garage/loan will include money for a garage that will be built posthaste or no deal. Converters, brake pads/rotors, sparkplugs, cap/rotor, oil changes, tranny pan filters/gaskets, gearbox oil changes, all these are no problem, I have the skills and tools to do these things. The shops just get ya on the things I cant. It is what it is and the couple shops I have been to have done a good job.

The truck was basically pristine with a couple scratches. It sold in 4 days. I was asking $4k for it, $3k was what I needed out of it. Being here in St. Louis, nobody is gonna buy a vehicle with a check engine light on due to having emission checks to register vehicles every year. The shops know this and in my opinion, overcharge.

[jonp]

I've saved a ton on parts bought online. I always price them then go on ebay, amazon etc and compare.

Example: Driveshaft for my F150 was about $750 at the local store. I got one online direct from CCI Driveline in Michigan for $350 and got it spec'd with Dana/Spicer grease zerks. Free shipping

Front lower ball joints about $80 at the local store. Got a set online for under $20 again with grease zerks and free shipping.

[Kraschenbirn]

Pretty typical mark-ups really. I recall a WSJ piece from way, way back, that calculated the cost of the parts, purchased over the counter, to assemble a typical $12,000 compact sedan (I said the numbers are from an old, old article :roll:) would be in the neighborhood of $60,000...without any labor for putting them together.

I've got an old college buddy who's had a shop for over 40 years and will NOT repair any component (transmission, engine sub-assemblies, brake discs/calipers, etc.) when he can purchase a 'reman' replacement because, even at wholesale, cost of repair parts will usually add up to more than the cost of the 'reman' without allowing anything for his labor.

Bill

[woodbutcher]

[smilie=1:On the cat converter.The"active ingrediant"in them is platinum.That`s the reason for the high cost.
Remember several years ago when the cats were being stolen right off of the people`s vehicles?The precious metals was the reason.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[abunaitoo]

Prices of parts has become a real problem.
Used to be a tune up cost under $100.
These days just the wire set can cost $100.
I remember buying plugs for under $1
Now they run $3 for the same plug.
Now they have those "special" plugs that can cost over $30 each.
New cars do run cleaner, get better millage.
But as they get older, they get dirty, eat more gas, and just don't run right.
I miss the old days when you didn't need a $1000 tool to do repairs.

[Parson]

2006 Ridgline. Power steering pressure hose went, drained and knocked out the pump. Pump was $220, the hose alone was $240, pulse labor, couldn’t believe it. They claimed it was something that just never happens, took about 2 weeks to even find the parts

[Handloader109]

Ha! Each plug of my 2005 Ford F150 is stupidly priced at $19.99 EACH. Two piece plug that will break.
Oh well. I had the rear window regulator break a cable last month. Can't just get cable or even motor, whole assembly. $100 at local stores. $35 shipped to me thru ebay. And works fine with same warranty. Parts are stupid high, but having them installed for you is EXTREMELY RIDICULOUSLY expensive. Glad I can still wrench.

[Hickory]

You should buy tractor parts.

[tinsnips]

Believe me I know about auto parts. Plumbing and heating parts are no different I feel bad for sending people bills for repairs now days. I thank God my best friend is a mechanic.

[rancher1913]

You should buy tractor parts.

2nd this

[Walks]

Technology is not our friend. It makes everything more expensive to buy and much more expensive to fix. And half the stuff you can't fix yourself, because you don't have $500,000 in Diagnostic equipment.

At $35,000 as the average price for a vehicle these days, does it even make sense to try to fix much yourself.

It's created a true THROW-AWAY Society. You buy a TV or a can opener, you can't get the cheap chinese stuff fixed because, they don't sell parts and there is no one left to fix them. The Fix-it shop no longer exists.

[RED BEAR]

try rock auto got ac condenser for 35 or so dollars auto parts stores $160 cheapest of them all.

[JWT]

Just got back in the house from trying to work on the wife's 2009 HHR. The lower control arms are shot. I looked up all of the information on how to replace them as well as the costs and then went out and put kroil on all of the fasteners. I started disassembly on the passenger side first. Ball joint and frame mount came apart fine (3 bolts down and 1 to go). The bushing mount... It seems that when I had the transmission replaced/repaired at 106,000 miles that they had an issue with the cradle bolt that goes through the bushing, so instead of a bolt head I have what looks like a rusted washer and nylock nut that have been welded to a stud or the remains of the cut off bolt. There is no way to remove the lower control arm.

So now I have a car that shakes so badly that it is unsafe without a way to repair it that doesn't cost more than the car is worth. Oh, and the transmission is slipping (145,000 miles) again.

How should I address this problem?

[smokeywolf]

Know what you mean. I think I've spent about $10,000 over the last 4 years on vehicle repairs and maintenance. Between a bad back, no garage to work in, very short and steep driveway; I can't even do an oil change.
I'm exceptionally blessed to have a very knowledgeable & resourceful and very honest mechanic who knows diesels as well as gas-ahol vehicles.

Also, for those like me who live in high sales tax states, the government encourages high prices because it increases the amounts that they then extort from the consumer.

[jsizemore]

I got the same truck as you. I paid $150 installed for a catalytic convertor. My rack and pinion cost me $175 and I installed it. I work on my local NAPA manager's store, church and house. I get the jobber's price on parts.

[snowwolfe]

Just got back in the house from trying to work on the wife's 2009 HHR. The lower control arms are shot. I looked up all of the information on how to replace them as well as the costs and then went out and put kroil on all of the fasteners. I started disassembly on the passenger side first. Ball joint and frame mount came apart fine (3 bolts down and 1 to go). The bushing mount... It seems that when I had the transmission replaced/repaired at 106,000 miles that they had an issue with the cradle bolt that goes through the bushing, so instead of a bolt head I have what looks like a rusted washer and nylock nut that have been welded to a stud or the remains of the cut off bolt. There is no way to remove the lower control arm.

So now I have a car that shakes so badly that it is unsafe without a way to repair it that doesn't cost more than the car is worth. Oh, and the transmission is slipping (145,000 miles) again.

How should I address this problem?

Junk it or sell it for what you car. Any car with that many problems at such low mileage is only destined to nickle and dime you to death.

[Walks]

Technology is not our friend. It makes everything more expensive to buy and much more expensive to fix. And half the stuff you can't fix yourself, because you don't have $500,000 in Diagnostic equipment.

At $35,000 as the average price for a vehicle these days, does it even make sense to try to fix much yourself.

It's created a true THROW-AWAY Society. You buy a TV or a can opener, you can't get the cheap chinese stuff fixed because, they don't sell parts and there is no one left to fix them. The Fix-it shop no longer exists.

[higgins]

https://www.oempartsource.com/

I just installed the weatherstrips on the bottom of the side windows on my Tundra double cab with genuine Toyota parts from these people, about half the price from the Toyota dealership. The new pieces snapped right in, no fuss no cuss.

[xs11jack]

If I remember right, When a dealer gets a part in, he tacks on 40%. With that kind of money on very expensive parts, I wonder what kind of house the dealer lives in.
Ole Jack

[BigMagShooter]

rock auto
parts geek and a few others get your parts cheap and shipped to you.

actually, cars are getting easier to fix.

You can get an OBD2 code reader for the codes now for about $100 tell you the basics.

for an extra $100 get the high end one that will help you diagnose the car.

they are getting so advanced technologically they tell you exactly what is wrong and what to replace.

as high teck as the cars get they still need fuel, air, mixed and spark and compression, basics never change.

[JWT]

Junk it or sell it for what you car. Any car with that many problems at such low mileage is only destined to nickle and dime you to death.


I wanted to take care of the shaky front end end sell this car. I think I will take a huge hit in the price with the shaking, and I don't want to pass on a potential safety problem.

[tomme boy]

Catalytic converters??? I cut them off and put a straight pipe in their place when they go bad. My Jeep has one rattling right now. Should cut it off before it goes completely. I got a guy that gives me $100 for ea one that still has the core in them.

[turtlezx]

cant do that in states that require inspections

[David2011]

If I remember right, When a dealer gets a part in, he tacks on 40%. With that kind of money on very expensive parts, I wonder what kind of house the dealer lives in.
Ole Jack

Many years before the Internet I went to the Ford dealership to buy a part. The man in from of me bought the same part. He had an independent repair shop and they charged him exactly half of what they charged me. Markup must be better than 40% to do that.

[Duckiller]

Be glad you don't live inCalifornia. Cars/trucks are inspected every other year. A catalyic converter that cost $400.00 in other states costs $2000.00here. Has to be Air Resource Board certified you know.

[jonp]

Ha! Each plug of my 2005 Ford F150 is stupidly priced at $19.99 EACH. Two piece plug that will break.
Oh well. I had the rear window regulator break a cable last month. Can't just get cable or even motor, whole assembly. $100 at local stores. $35 shipped to me thru ebay. And works fine with same warranty. Parts are stupid high, but having them installed for you is EXTREMELY RIDICULOUSLY expensive. Glad I can still wrench.

I've got an 04 with the 5.4 Triton. I feel your pain

[jonp]

Just got back in the house from trying to work on the wife's 2009 HHR. The lower control arms are shot. I looked up all of the information on how to replace them as well as the costs and then went out and put kroil on all of the fasteners. I started disassembly on the passenger side first. Ball joint and frame mount came apart fine (3 bolts down and 1 to go). The bushing mount... It seems that when I had the transmission replaced/repaired at 106,000 miles that they had an issue with the cradle bolt that goes through the bushing, so instead of a bolt head I have what looks like a rusted washer and nylock nut that have been welded to a stud or the remains of the cut off bolt. There is no way to remove the lower control arm.

So now I have a car that shakes so badly that it is unsafe without a way to repair it that doesn't cost more than the car is worth. Oh, and the transmission is slipping (145,000 miles) again.

How should I address this problem?

Tannerite.

Seriously, you can cut off the bolt head with a Dremel and drill it out then re-tap the hole if you have to? You can get a set of cheap taps from Harbor Freight that will work for the amount you want. When I took the bottom pulley off the front of my F150 to remove the front cover and do a timing job I misthreaded the bolt putting it back on and dinged the first several threads. I got the kit from HF and easily cleaned the hole. Pretty angry when I first ruined the hole but after I calmed down I thought "ok, I'm not the first guy who ever did that" and sure enough there was a youtube video

[Remmy4477]

If you don't need it now, buy online.
Had a cracked plastic radiator in my chevy cavalier, local stores $180+ depending on who it was.
Found it online for $50 shipped, had it within 3 days.
Funny part. It's the same supplier for a few of the box stores!

[drizler]

Prices of parts has become a real problem.
Used to be a tune up cost under $100.
These days just the wire set can cost $100.
I remember buying plugs for under $1
Now they run $3 for the same plug.
Now they have those "special" plugs that can cost over $30 each.
New cars do run cleaner, get better millage.
But as they get older, they get dirty, eat more gas, and just don't run right.
I miss the old days when you didn't need a $1000 tool to do repairs.

Sure things were cheaper but look at it the other way. Many of those replacement items like spark plugs and distributors get changed only a time or two in the life of the vehicle. Personally I find them easier to work on as well and they don’t tend to have as many recurring issues . Coolant lasts twice as long as well as does the motor oil.
Sure the parts cost a bundle but when you consider you’re buying less of them over time it’s really not so bad.



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[Handloader109]

A couple of more things. I worked during High school for Auto parts. Even back in early 70s there were three price lists.
Highest, which was what a shop charged a customer, (in most cases) was list price. Say $100 for a water pump. Next was a walk in price, which the average joe got when he came in. Would be about $75 for same pump. The shop that bought regularly from us got the cheapest price, which would be about $45 for that pump. We paid about $35, and the distributor we bought from $30. That was the markups.

I would imagine very little has changed. If you go to shop to have installed, you pay the $100 plus labor/shop rate min. Internet would put sale price between shop price and distributor price depending on how much they want to make selling the items. Buy from internet seller if possible. Oh, I've bought two radiators over past 5 years (two different cars) for my Miatas. Plastic fiberglass reinforced top that deteriorates over 5-8 years. Local is over a hundred, I got last one for under $50 delivered.

[woodbutcher]

:-D Gee.All of the above is why I love my 1984 F150.300 ci inline 6.C6 automatic with about 450K miles on it with no problems.Only time out of the truck was for a flex plate replacement about 3 years ago.Got gid of the computer controlled carb.It was wore out.Also replaced the TFI ign system with the DS2,and the gas mileage went from 8mpg on the hiway to 16 on the hiway.Starts and runs much better too.Going to update the exhaust system as soon as a friend has some spare time to give me a hand.Going to install the EFI exhaust manifolds and plumbing.It`s all a simple bolt on deal.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[Traffer]

I did a lot of work on my 1999 Honda Civic a short while ago. Replaced the entire front end. All Struts. Shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, brakes, rotors, swing arms, even the power steering pump. Some parts for the AC and an entire exhaust system. Parts totaled about $350. The complete exhaust (minus catalytic converter) Cost $130. All stainless aftermarket with 2 1/4" pipe instead of 1 7/8". Parts for OEM exhaust were $800. Moral of the story...aftermarket stuff from eBay for WAAAAAAY cheaper.

[30calflash]

You can check prices online, helps immensely. For my 20 YO Mazda B2600 Rock auto had it way below what it could be had for from a parts store, even with a garage discount from where I work. With Rock they have various suppliers for a part and the price is listed. If you want a better quality part you will tend to pay more for it, in general. But you can save money online.

I cringe at some costs, even with the discount available. Even if SOME vehicles and problems are easier to work on many are not. And the equipment to diagnose ALL of the issues can cost a lot more than you think. Low buck helps but it will take you only so far.

[drizler]

You can check prices online, helps immensely. For my 20 YO Mazda B2600 Rock auto had it way below what it could be had for from a parts store, even with a garage discount from where I work. With Rock they have various suppliers for a part and the price is listed. If you want a better quality part you will tend to pay more for it, in general. But you can save money online.

I cringe at some costs, even with the discount available. Even if SOME vehicles and problems are easier to work on many are not. And the equipment to diagnose ALL of the issues can cost a lot more than you think. Low buck helps but it will take you only so far.

I helped a friend of mine replaced his 2003 HD GMC fuel lines last summer. He got his from Rock and saved a bundle. One of the lines had a leak at one of the flex joints that they build in those. He called up rack they fired another one off immediately and they wanted that other one back so they could see where it was leaking and how . I don’t think you to get better service than that from General Motors andYou know very well how much their stuff is
Personally I buy all kinds of stuff from them And I have nothing but good things to say about them. What I don’t like one bit is there shipping from those various where houses. That can really add up and creates a pain in the neck if you’re buying like the whole front end with various pieces.
Come to think of it from buying parts like I do constantly all over the Internet I just assumed by and there is the school around downtown. Why first they beat New York State out to some of their ill-gotten thievery. Secondly everything you go to buy they got a order it too and guess what it’s as often as not faster for me to do it. Nobody seems to stock anything anymore



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[merlin101]

Prices of parts has become a real problem.
Used to be a tune up cost under $100.
These days just the wire set can cost $100.
I remember buying plugs for under $1
Now they run $3 for the same plug.
Now they have those "special" plugs that can cost over $30 each.
New cars do run cleaner, get better millage.
But as they get older, they get dirty, eat more gas, and just don't run right.
I miss the old days when you didn't need a $1000 tool to do repairs.

Plugs now a days last 100,000 mi or so,How many of the old $2-3 plugs would you go thru in that same time?
I know the prices are up specially at local stores some of that's the internet sales some because of bozos that mess stuff up and then return on warranty.
Say what you will but I don't want to go back to the 'good ole days' . I run my truck 2850 miles a week and change the oil every 50,000 miles yes 50,000! I've got 198,900 on it ant its yet to use any oil at all. Yea it a big diesel but the technology is basically the same for cars! High prices suck but I'm not looking back.

[RogerDat]

Just got back in the house from trying to work on the wife's 2009 HHR. The lower control arms are shot. I looked up all of the information on how to replace them as well as the costs and then went out and put kroil on all of the fasteners. I started disassembly on the passenger side first. Ball joint and frame mount came apart fine (3 bolts down and 1 to go). The bushing mount... It seems that when I had the transmission replaced/repaired at 106,000 miles that they had an issue with the cradle bolt that goes through the bushing, so instead of a bolt head I have what looks like a rusted washer and nylock nut that have been welded to a stud or the remains of the cut off bolt. There is no way to remove the lower control arm.

So now I have a car that shakes so badly that it is unsafe without a way to repair it that doesn't cost more than the car is worth. Oh, and the transmission is slipping (145,000 miles) again.

How should I address this problem? Any reason you can't use a 4" grinder with a cut off wheel on that welded bolt? Or even a grinder wheel and just grind it down? Might want to use water frequently to keep any rubber bushing from over heating. If you don't have that tool they can be had for fairly low price at Harbor Freight. Might also look at an oscillating saw with a metal cutting blade if that shape works better for reaching that location.

Yes vehicles have gotten pretty darned complicated and expensive to repair. They work better and last longer but man when they start to go it can be like a house of cards.

Bad spark plugs in Ford Escape V6 can cost a fortune. The plugs will go like 60k plus miles BUT if the gap gets too large the resistance throws the charge back at the ECM and the $450 brain is fried without warning or symptoms. And recalibrating that brain to work with the chip in your key is another $150 or more with no way for you to set the brain up without a $40,000 piece of equipment. Combine that with the intake manifold having to come off to get to the 3 spark plug & coils on the back end with corresponding labor charges and gasket cost. The 6 coil on plug units at $75 each and just the 60,000 mile scheduled maintenance can easily exceed the cost of some cars I have bought and driven. Routine maint. parts should not be buried like that in my opinion.

I think some of it has to do with the auto makers squeezing their suppliers to keep the parts as cheap on the assembly line means the manufacturers of the parts have to make it up in the replacement market.

[jonp]

I did a lot of work on my 1999 Honda Civic a short while ago. Replaced the entire front end. All Struts. Shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, brakes, rotors, swing arms, even the power steering pump. Some parts for the AC and an entire exhaust system. Parts totaled about $350. The complete exhaust (minus catalytic converter) Cost $130. All stainless aftermarket with 2 1/4" pipe instead of 1 7/8". Parts for OEM exhaust were $800. Moral of the story...aftermarket stuff from eBay for WAAAAAAY cheaper.

Did the same thing to my 1997 Honda CRV. Struts, ball joints, tie rods, engine mounts etc, even an entire exhaust with pipes for under $200. Got all the parts online and saved a ton. The 97 generation may be on the edge of the last ones that you can get some wrenches out and replace everything in your driveway.

I keep thinking about selling it but with under 175k on it, it has become an experiment to see how long it will last. A little oil leak but that's it. Daily commuter that gets 28mpg and is AWD. WooHoo....

[Traffer]

Did the same thing to my 1997 Honda CRV. Struts, ball joints, tie rods, engine mounts etc, even an entire exhaust with pipes for under $200. Got all the parts online and saved a ton. The 97 generation may be on the edge of the last ones that you can get some wrenches out and replace everything in your driveway.

I keep thinking about selling it but with under 175k on it, it has become an experiment to see how long it will last. A little oil leak but that's it. Daily commuter that gets 28mpg and is AWD. WooHoo....

I put 150K miles on mine the first three years. Was a process server in the Boston area. I quit doing that and now my car only has 235k on it. I know a process server in the Tampa FL area (bigger area more miles) who had over 600K on his 99Civic in 2008. It still looked and ran like new. If you ride in mine you might think it is a new car. I have had it for 19 years as my only car. If you only have 150k on yours, prepare to have it for another 15 or so years.

[Newtire]

rock auto
parts geek and a few others get your parts cheap and shipped to you.

actually, cars are getting easier to fix.

You can get an OBD2 code reader for the codes now for about $100 tell you the basics.

for an extra $100 get the high end one that will help you diagnose the car.

they are getting so advanced technologically they tell you exactly what is wrong and what to replace.

as high teck as the cars get they still need fuel, air, mixed and spark and compression, basics never change.
Do work for the company that makes the one that helps you fix the car. They're a lot more than $100.00 extra but if you do enough snooping around on Internet, you can usually come up with what you are looking for just for investing your time. When you have more time than money, you can still fix it.

[Dieselhorses]

Just got back in the house from trying to work on the wife's 2009 HHR. The lower control arms are shot. I looked up all of the information on how to replace them as well as the costs and then went out and put kroil on all of the fasteners. I started disassembly on the passenger side first. Ball joint and frame mount came apart fine (3 bolts down and 1 to go). The bushing mount... It seems that when I had the transmission replaced/repaired at 106,000 miles that they had an issue with the cradle bolt that goes through the bushing, so instead of a bolt head I have what looks like a rusted washer and nylock nut that have been welded to a stud or the remains of the cut off bolt. There is no way to remove the lower control arm.

So now I have a car that shakes so badly that it is unsafe without a way to repair it that doesn't cost more than the car is worth. Oh, and the transmission is slipping (145,000 miles) again.

How should I address this problem?

Was this your prognosis that the lower control arms are shot? Asking because my mechanic said the same thing ONLY because the "bushings" were missing. Matter of fact he said all the strut assemblies needed changing, upper and lower control arms and some other part. My Toyota was shaking drastically every time we would come to a stop. We got the front rotors turned, installed new front brake kit and the shaking went away. Yea it rides a little rough sometimes on a gravel road with a few ruts but on the highway it's fine now. Just an idea.

[Traffer]

Was this your prognosis that the lower control arms are shot? Asking because my mechanic said the same thing ONLY because the "bushings" were missing. Matter of fact he said all the strut assemblies needed changing, upper and lower control arms and some other part. My Toyota was shaking drastically every time we would come to a stop. We got the front rotors turned, installed new front brake kit and the shaking went away. Yea it rides a little rough sometimes on a gravel road with a few ruts but on the highway it's fine now. Just an idea.

If front brakes and rotors fixed the shaking on your car that doesn't necessarily mean that other cars that shake are because of brakes. I had to change my control arms (I call them swing arms) because the ball joints were attached to them and it is cheaper and easier to change the whole assemblies. I changed the entire front end of my car ( I have had it for 19 years and have done all of the maintenance since new) and believe me the ball joints needed changing. So did the struts, inner and outer tie rod ends, stablizer bar bushings and everything else on the front end. Now it is like a brand new car, The cost of all of those parts was less than $170. A garage would have charged over $3.000.00 for the work.

[JWT]

Was this your prognosis that the lower control arms are shot? Asking because my mechanic said the same thing ONLY because the "bushings" were missing. Matter of fact he said all the strut assemblies needed changing, upper and lower control arms and some other part. My Toyota was shaking drastically every time we would come to a stop. We got the front rotors turned, installed new front brake kit and the shaking went away. Yea it rides a little rough sometimes on a gravel road with a few ruts but on the highway it's fine now. Just an idea.

Brakes, rotors, struts , and wheel bearing are all fairly new. My mechanic diagnosed the lower control arms. He a good guy (also supplies me with free wheel weights).

[MT Gianni]

This is nothing new. In my 1st year of Diesel mechanics it was explained to us you could by a VW bug for $2,000 [1972] or built it yourself from parts for $28,500.

[Traffer]

This is nothing new. In my 1st year of Diesel mechanics it was explained to us you could by a VW bug for $2,000 [1972] or built it yourself from parts for $28,500.

Hahahahaha. That is absolutely true! There is one other alternative...Get one used and beat up for $50 and parts from a junkyard for another $50 keep it running for 3 or 4 years and as an alternative benefit learn auto mechanics while you are at it.