S&W model 1903 hand ejector

[psweigle]

I'm going to buy one for a shooter and am very unfamiliar with the things to look for. Obvious things such as hammer push off and cylinder lockup i get. I know there are guys out here that shoot and collect old smiths, so any knowlege is much appreciated. Thanks.

[Outpost75]

Lots of info in the sticky:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?353160-Revolver-Inspection-The-Right-Way-aka-Wheelgun-101

[psweigle]

Thank you very much. That helps.

[El Bibliotecario]

Go to the Smith and Wesson forum and they will tell you more than you ever wanted to hear.

If you want a weapon to use rather than look at I would give priority to a tight lockup and a crane that isn't buggered by wannabe movie gangsters snapping the cylinder shut with a flip of the wrist. Evidence of such treatment is a hairline gap between the crane and the frame.

One finds refinished shooter S&Ws ranging from nice to not nice. A good indicator of a refinish is a blued hammer and trigger.

I have S&Ws older than I am which I have never detailed stripped and they work just fine. In fact, they work better than I do. But if you are a compulsive taker-apart of things and share my lack of gunsmithing skills, the Kuhnhausen shop manual is an excellent guide to Smith and Wesson innards.

[psweigle]

This was what i was looking for thanks very much.

[shooting on a shoestring]

There’s a small herd of the little Hand Ejectors in residence with me. None are collector grade, all shoot just fine. They are a hoot!

Keep in mind the early ones before the 1920s or so did not have hardened cylinders. Those need to be treated easily. They’ll do a job on a target but keep the pressures low and cycle them politely. After the 1920s pretty much all the Smiths had hardened cylinders. They can have a more robust diet.

Also most of the early ones have been fired with black powder ammunition and lots didn’t get a proper bath afterward. So its common to see a rough barrel. Good news is, that really doesn’t matter. I’ve got a few that have absolutely ugly barrels and still put boolits on the target where they should go.

Yep go find one, take it home, feed it, pet it a little and you’ll find it’s a friend for life.

[psweigle]

Thanks for the tip. Didnt know about the heat treated cylinders.

[dubber123]

I'm assuming its in .32 Long? If so, I can highly recommend the RCBS 98 grain SWC. it shoots very well and right to the sights in both of mine. Cylinder throats seems to run around .314" on all that I have measured.

[psweigle]

Good to know. I keep hearing that the rcbs mold is a good one for it. Thanks .

[shooting on a shoestring]

Oh, another thing, you’ll want to buy a magnifying glass to see the sights. The rear sights are hardly more than a scratch in the top strap and the front sights come to an edge finer than most people’s pocket knives.

Other than that, they are wonderful little revolvers. They can be surprisingly accurate.

Another good wadcutter is Accurate 31-088W. I recently added that one to the pile for my snubby 30-1, but it’s good in the HEs too. I also favor Bullseye. It meters good in my Lyman 55 with those petit charges and it’s high nitroglycerin content gives consistent ignition no matter how the charge lies in the case.

It’s fairly common to find the nickel ones with real pear grips. They’re tiny, but do feel like fine jewelry. I’ve got a couple any throughly enjoy them, looking at them, rubbing them, shooting them, great feeling and a connection to the bygone days before polymers.

[psweigle]

Yeah, bullseye was my plan as far as powder goes. The revolver i have in mind is a round butt early model, so soft shooting loads with a heavy bullet sounds like my best option.

[psweigle]

Well, I put my s&w HE on layaway today. Thanks to all for the tips. From what i can tell, it was made in 1905. The thing has almost no blue left, but the function is almost flawless. Cant wait to pick it up in a week or so.

[Outpost75]

That would have a non-heat-treated cylinder. I would not exceed 2.2-2.3 grains of Bullseye with the RCBS 98 SWC or similar.

[psweigle]

That would have a non-heat-treated cylinder. I would not exceed 2.2-2.3 grains of Bullseye with the RCBS 98 SWC or similar.

Im pretty sure as long as 2.0 of bullseye gets the boolit out of the barrel, thats about as far as im going to push it. My 38 special load for all my guns is only 2.8gr with a 158gr boolit. Pretty darn accurate too. Thanks again for all of your help and guidance.

[JoeJames]

It took me awhile to come up with the right load for the fixed sights. Mine is the Model 1903 HE fifth version made around 1914. I used 98 grain swaged semi-wadcutters for my boolits. 15 yards. Just mostly to verify that the 2 grain bullseye load under a 98 grain lead swc = 650 fps average is to point of aim with the fixed sights. On an earlier paper target off a rest it appeared to be in there, but wanted to try it in a less than formal setting with a bottom side facing 4" cashew nut can as the target, trying to approximate field conditions. Note the vertical string which I ascribe to the tiny sights on it. The two larger holes = two rounds apiece.
227296

[Drm50]

I have several 32 pistol molds. I shoot the 98gr RCBS in S&W 32 & 32/20 revolvers and in my old
lever action Wins & Marlins. I have tried lighter bullets but don't get the accuracy of the 98. I have
a old Ideal 115g that doesn't do bad but the 98g has worked better for me?

[Outpost75]

Im pretty sure as long as 2.0 of bullseye gets the boolit out of the barrel, thats about as far as im going to push it. My 38 special load for all my guns is only 2.8gr with a 158gr boolit. Pretty darn accurate too. Thanks again for all of your help and guidance.

2 grains of Bullseye is a close approximation of factory loads. According to Hatcher's Textbook of Pistols and Revolvers (1935) on p. 340 he lists 2 grains of Bullseye with the 100-grain flatnosed bullet in the .32 Colt New Police for 730 fps at 8500 psi. for 120 ft.-lbs.

[psweigle]

Thats plenty strong for knocking over cans or putting holes in paper. Im actually looking into cutting nagant revolver brass down, and using that for making snake shot loads.

[JoeJames]

Thats plenty strong for knocking over cans or putting holes in paper. Im actually looking into cutting nagant revolver brass down, and using that for making snake shot loads.That is plumb cool. The 32 S&W HE is mighty easy to carry. Publish your results please?

[dogrunner]

I acquired one in a convoluted trade several months past...........round butt, blue, 4 plus inch bbl, perhaps 70% of the original finish remaining. Bore quite usable, but shows bp lesions in a spot of two. Serial # indicates it was made in about '19. When I first saw the gun the cylinder was so gunked up with dried grease that it would not turn, a light app of break free took care of that.............Locks up as tight as one could want but I gotta go with the magnifying glass for the sights.....still it shoots quite well. It's for sure no registered magnum, but it exudes the quality of S&W products from it's era and from appearances hasn't had a screwdriver applied since it was assembled.

I got 40 plus rounds of mixed longs and shorts with the gun and as I happen to have a set of dies I promptly burned up all that factory stuff and began to play with some loads. The longs shoot quite well using Lee's 100 gr. lubed with alox.......loaded as cast...mikes about .310/.312. Lube is Lee's roll 'em in it. The shorts presented a somewhat more difficult issue as I have no bullet immediately available that runs as light as Lymans CBHB recommends.........I grabbed a handful of .311 Lee rb's and rolled 'em in that alox mix.....great plinking or snake round if you are adroit enough
to not drop those short little boogers!

Load for both rounds used Unique.........3.0 for the longs and dropped a grain for the RB shorts.........I did add a drop of alox on top of that RB. Seating for the latter is just below the ctg. mouth and I very slightly crimped both cartridges.

Out of my gun.......after supercarefully eyeballing that minuscule sight,, is easily minute of tin can to about 15 yards....with either load...........just fooling around in the woods behind the house I had no problem hitting the random leaf or stray stick. That little gun is quite likely to find itself living in my hunting jackets side pocket this fall.

[JoeJames]

It is great fun to reload for the HE. I did chronographed it in working up loads like the original factory loads albeit SWC's rather than round ball, along with some store-bought Fiochi:

S&W 32 Hand Ejector 5th Change
98 grain lead swc:
fps
2.0 grains - Bullseye = 659, 642, 665
2.1 grains - Bullseye = 694, 681, 689
2.2 grains - Bullseye = 625, 757, 760
.........
Fiocchi Wad-cutters = 560, 587, 597, 608

[Outpost75]

Some more .32 Long data:

.32 S&W Long Factory Vs. Handloads In Revolvers and Rifle
Remington cases, Federal 200 primers in all handloads:

Ammo Type________________Colt 2”__________Colt 4”___________H&R18”

PMC 98 LRN factory_________687, 13 Sd_______797, 17Sd________945, 16 Sd
Highest velocity factory load__103 ft-lbs._______138 ft.lbs.________194 ft.-lbs.

Remington 98 LRN factory_____645, 20 Sd______729, 12 Sd________899, 11 Sd

Western 98 LRN factory (1960s)_643, 19 Sd______658, 22 Sd________912, 17 Sd

Privi-Partisan 98 LRN_________656, 28 Sd_______675, 11 Sd________917, 21 Sd

Accurate 31-087T, 2.5 BE_____662, 16 Sd_______780, 22 Sd________1000, 15 Sd

Accurate 31-090B, 2.5 BE_____731, 26 Sd_______773, 11 Sd________1066, 16 Sd

Accurate 31-114D, 2.5 BE____746, 9 Sd_________795, 15 Sd________947, 11 Sd -- Not for pre-WW2 I-frames

__________________________________________________ ____________________

[psweigle]

Cant wait to compare data.

[mommicked]

I used to have a 'shooter grade' 1905 Hand Ejector in 38 Special. Dated to the late 1920's. I removed the original grips and saved them, then put a pair of surplus WWII Model 10(?) grips that I refinished lightly with Tru Oil and recut the checkering slowly and carefully. I rounded the tops off of the grips to a half circle right around the medallion and they came out great. It was a good, sturdy, inexpensive piece to use until I was dying for a stainless 357. I traded it in and bought a cheap stainless Rossi with a 4" barrel. The Hand Ejector used to ride in an old SD Myres floral carved holster I picked up somewhere, good times...

[psweigle]

I used to have a 'shooter grade' 1905 Hand Ejector in 38 Special. Dated to the late 1920's. I removed the original grips and saved them, then put a pair of surplus WWII Model 10(?) grips that I refinished lightly with Tru Oil and recut the checkering slowly and carefully. I rounded the tops off of the grips to a half circle right around the medallion and they came out great. It was a good, sturdy, inexpensive piece to use until I was dying for a stainless 357. I traded it in and bought a cheap stainless Rossi with a 4" barrel. The Hand Ejector used to ride in an old SD Myres floral carved holster I picked up somewhere, good times...

Im hoping to be able to find a holster for mine, although it would appear that im going to have to make one.

[dubber123]

Im hoping to be able to find a holster for mine, although it would appear that im going to have to make one.

I have a couple J frame 4" holsters in the spare holster box, I'm not sure how loose they would be on an I frame though...

[psweigle]

Im not sure either. When I get the gun home, I can measure it and see.

[psweigle]

Picked up my "new to me" shooter grade 1903 HE. Cant wait to shoot it. Its very "worn" looking, but the funtion seems to be good. Plenty of rifling and the bore isnt all messed up.

[psweigle]

From the information I gathered, it shipped some time in 1912. I managed to get a box of lead round nose bullets, so if time allows, i'm going to get to test fire it today.

[35remington]

In my circa 1924 Regulation Police a double round ball load with the top ball seated just a little past the the midway point and lightly crimped over 2.0 Bullseye gets 720 fps. The two balls hit less than an inch apart at 25-30 feet and in effect are like shooting a one inch bullet at the target increasing my hit probability a little bit.

Unlike a single ball load, a double ball approximates standard bullet weight and hits to the sights.

The RCBS 98 SWC does about 800 fps over 2.5 of Bullseye, generating a little less pressure and velocity than more deeply seated variants. The 313492 “semi wadcutter wadcutter” of 88 grains gets around 830 fps with the same charge and is my favored “field” loading for the little pistol. This has accounted for some number of cottontails and 13 lined ground squirrels, most under 50 feet but one shot on a rabbit was 25 yards.

It is great fun to use to chase down Missouri yard possums and stops them quicker than a 22.

All this from the 4 1/4” barrel. I also find favor with WST and the RCBS 98 wadcutter at around 750 fps, which is my “do not exceed velocity” with the deeply seated WC. I usually use 2.0 Bullseye with the RCBS WC for around 710 fps. This is mild and more accurate than I can shoot it.

This last load also shoots well in my 1919 Colt Police Positive. I am not a fan of any but good metering powders for 32 Long loadings and avoid large flake powders for the most part. With but few exceptions metering is unreliable to the point of throwing squibby partial charges, which caused their discontinuance.

With a few very specific exceptions I am not a fan of Unique and Red Dot or similar powders of large flake granulation for that reason. Universal, while metering better, shows such terribly unacceptable velocity variation that it has my vote as “worst possible 32 Long propellant.”

[psweigle]

I plan on using bullseye as i use it in a couple other loads. The first mold is going to be the lee 90 grain tumble lube, until i can afford an upgrade.