New Lee mold's pins pulling out...

[kamikaze1a]

Last night, I poured into a brand new 6 bagger Lee mold. Before preheating, I did the usual lubing and smoking of the mold but soon after I started getting keepers, I started feeling resistance to opening the mold. Soon after that, I started seeing some "casting flash" on my boolits at the seam and then noticed that the mold was no longer closing flush. Upon closer inspection, I found that the positioning dowels, especially the rear, was protruding and was preventing the mold from meeting flush. Lee says send it back... Totally messed up my plans to breakin a new 40 and thoughts of using it at next month's shoot.

Anyone have that happen to their Lee mold? Or did anyone try driving the dowels back in with a brass punch?

[redneckdan]

I traded for the lee 175 six banger and had the same problem. The front pin fell right our. I re seated it with some high temp bearing retainer. Might be a bad batch of moulds out there.

[AZ-Stew]

Just driving it back in won't help. As soon as the mould gets hot, the pin will get loose again. The aluminum mould block expands due to heat at a greater rate than the steel pin does.

You'll either need some very high temp adhesive to hold it, or if you have machinist talent and the right tools, you can punch the pin out, drill in from the side and tap the side hole for a set screw, then drive the alignment pin back in and lock it with the set screw. Either will work, but so will sending it back for a replacement.

Regards,

Stew

[Rick N Bama]

My last 2 group buy molds have had that problem, as well as casting undersized. I think Lee quality is still lacking, even with the new equipment.

Rick

[kamikaze1a]

Sorry to hear that others are getting the same problem. Maybe I should "fix" it myself. Drive it back into place and a drop or two of Locktite as rnDan suggested or maybe simply remove the pin, peen the inside of the hole and driving the pin back in... Sending the mold back right now would really be bad timing. Thanks for the input!

[mooman76]

Not quite the same thing but I was just trying out a new 2x mould and happened to turn it over and the pins that hold it to the handle were falling out. Lee didn't set the pin. It was a minor inconvienience to me, I just turned it over and used a punch to set it.

[halfslow]

Similar problem to mooman76: I got a new Lee mould a couple weeks ago. As I started to cast nice bullets, the pin holding one mould block fell out. That half of the mould fell onto the table. And I had just got it to the right temperature.
I simply put it back together and peened the open end of the hole.
Works fine now.

[Little Doc]

epidemic, a year and a half ago i got a 6 banger in a group buy. allignment bushings came out as yours have. i have reached the point to drill and tap the blocks and use a set screw. this screw works loose and the problem return. i can't find any glue, loctight, or anything else that will withstand the heat. i have not sent mine back to lee. i talked to them when this happened, they said send it back. i really think that is the best thing to do. since then i bought a new 6 banger that is a regular catalog mould and it has the same problem. i have a 2 cav. that has lost a pin also. seems that quality control is out to lunch.
good luck, if you find a simple cure please post it.
ld.

[imashooter2]

One of my 6 bangers was having the loose bushing issue. I punched it out, stippled the bushing a bit and pressed it back in. No further issues. Leave about 1/4 of it clean to start it back in the blocks straight.

[hiram]

I had the same problem with the sprue plate screw. It would loosen. The set screw to hold the sprue pl screw loosened from heat and giving the mold handle screw a knock for the bullets to fall out. If the pin isn't hardened, you might consider my fix. What I did was align and drill a new hole for a 6X32 screw so half the diameter of the screw was in the aluminum and the other half passed through the sprue plate screw. This made a groove in the sprue plate screw. then I tapped the hole which cut threads into both the mold block and the groove. Now, even if the screw backs out a little from heat and vibration, the set screw pins together the mold and the sprue screw.

[jack19512]

It's a simple fix, like some have posted just use a punch or other suitable tool and deform the hole so the pin can't come out anymore. No biggie! It took longer to type this then it would take to fix it.

[EMC45]

I've used a punch to reset them. Just peen around the hole and you're set.

[Cap'n Morgan]

A ball from a ball bearing is great for peening. Place the ball on the hole and tap it lightly with hammer.

[straight-shooter]

I'm also thinking that by applying lubricant to these pins if that's not aiding in them coming loose ? Combination of heat and lubricant I suppose.

[45nut]

I'm also thinking that by applying lubricant to these pins if that's not aiding in them coming loose ? Combination of heat and lubricant I suppose.

Thats what I suspect, I come across the "slipping pin syndrome" onn a few of these molds and what I have done is drill and tap and put a screw behind the collar and the locating pins. they can no longer back out, then I gently take a small pin punch and drive in about three tabs to keep them in.

[kamikaze1a]

After close inspection of my mold and it loose alignment pins, I went over my options.

Option one; peen around the alignment pins on the mating surface of the mold body with a center punch. Peening the back of the mold would not be as effective being that the pins are traveling towards the mating surface. Problem with peening the mating surface would be the mold halves would no longer mate properly due to the punch marks raising the area around the marks but I could file the surface to return it to true. Second problem; the filing could bugger the mold further if not done with precision.

Option two; drive the pins out and peen the pins with a center punch before driving them back into place. My concern is that it looks like the pins are steel and may not take the punch marks well. (Would appreciate hearing from someone who has actually peened/punched the alingment pins and hear how well the pins took the punch marks)

Option three; drive the pins out and peen the inside of the alignment pins holes. Problem wiht that would be, being able to get the punch marks where I want them due to the hole being so narrow. I would say that the ideal placement of the punch marks would be a bit below the edge to ease driving in the pins.

Option four; apply Locktite or some other bearing locker. Problem is, can't find anything that will handle 8-900f and believe the solution to removing bolt that is Locktited is applying heat to the bolt.

I did consider the locking set screw approach but feel that would be too involved. I do have a drill press but would need to buy a tap but will keep that option in mind.

Any input appreciated...

[imashooter2]

After close inspection of my mold and it loose alignment pins, I went over my options.

-snip-

Option two; drive the pins out and peen the pins with a center punch before driving them back into place. My concern is that it looks like the pins are steel and may not take the punch marks well. (Would appreciate hearing from someone who has actually peened/punched the alingment pins and hear how well the pins took the punch marks)

-snip-

Any input appreciated...

See post 9 above. It works fine. I prefer to stipple the steel pin / bushing rather than the aluminum block. Driving the pin / bushing back into a stippled aluminum bore simply irons out the stippling. Driving a stippled steel pin / bushing into an aluminum bore throws up aluminum "burrs" around the stippling and locks them in place. Remember to leave the first 1/4 of the pin or bushing clean to ensure you get a good straight start on pressing it back in place.

[MT Gianni]

I'm also thinking that by applying lubricant to these pins if that's not aiding in them coming loose ? Combination of heat and lubricant I suppose.

I was thinking that a lack of lubricant caused the metal to gall and stick resulting in pulling out.

[Ricochet]

I've had this problem, also. Some have fallen out and I had to hunt for them on the floor. I just push 'em back in and peen around them. Ought to start doing it prophylactically, I suppose. Another bit of "Leementing."

[wiljen]

I have gotten to the point that I just drill and tap all of my lee 6 cavs and put a set screw in to hold the pins in place.

[straight-shooter]

I was thinking that a lack of lubricant caused the metal to gall and stick resulting in pulling out.

You are correct. Lack of lubricant on the part of the pin that is above the mold will aid in pulling out the pin. What about the lubricant from a previous application that is still below the surface of the mold on the pin. Although one would think that the heat would dissipate the lubricant below the surface.

Just speculating and thinking out loud.

[kamikaze1a]

Thanks! So it shall be punch marks on the pins... Will post results soon! Thanks for everyone's input!!!

[MT Gianni]

I try not to use BullPlate lube on the pins. I think it is too good of a penetrator. I like grey anti-sieze as it doesn't seeem to migrate.

[straight-shooter]

I try not to use BullPlate lube on the pins. I think it is too good of a penetrator. I like grey anti-sieze as it doesn't seeem to migrate.

Great advice. Thanks! ..... :drinks: