How to remove real old masking tape ?

[nekshot]

How do you remove old masking tape that is brittle its self from a old 160 or more year old gun stock that has spectacular curly maple stock.
The stock has some length ways cracks that somebody wrapped with masking tape. I don't think chemicals is a good idea. I also believe it is best to keep the stock and barrel together with the pins in place. I was thinking of using liquid loctite crazy glue or the gel type to fix the cracks. I will have to keep current finish protected!! Some body might end up thinking I am a genius or that I am the biggest jerk around! Sound proven advise always appreciated.

[dondiego]

Goo-Gone works but it is a chemical. You will need to refinish the stock any way though.

[sundog]

Lighter fluid?

[owejia]

Maybe a big rubber eraser or steel wool.

[ShooterAZ]

Mineral spirits might work, it's fairly gentle on stuff.

[retread]

I prefer "Oops!" cleaner. I does a better job than Goo-Gone and if used carefully does not seen to harm existing finish. Filling the cracks will be the tough one if you are trying to retain the original finish.

[retread]

Mineral spirits might work, it's fairly gentle on stuff. You also might try denatured alcohol.

[fast ronnie]

Maybe try using an old popsicle stick.I've cleaned quite a few stickers that way. I like goo-gone, too, but don't know if if would hurt the finish. I've used it on a lot of different surfaces and haven't seen any damage done to what I've used it on. Might try it on something else first.

[fast ronnie]

Just thought of something else that I have used successfully. A friend borrowed my dually and drove through a mud hole that was in reality , latex paint. It took off all the latex, but did not hurt the finish on the truck. I think we got it at Walmart. Took a lot of rubbing and time, but came off. I didn't want to hurt the paint, as it was a custom job.
Name of the stuff is 'Krud Cutter.'

[jcren]

A bit of heat from a heat gun or hair dryer and a soft wood or plastic scraper usually does the trick with old furniture finishes, dont recall trying it on a gun stock thouugh.

[Grmps]

depending on the finish of your gun, Murphy's oil soap might work

https://www.google.com/search?q=murphy%27s+oil+soap&oq=Murphy%27s+oil+soap&aqs=chrome.0.0l6.1611j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

[waksupi]

Soak with mineral spirits. Once the tape will lift off, use the mineral spirits and a shop rag to rub off the residue.

[BrassMagnet]

WD-40 is what the CMP Armorers recommend. It will loosen adhesive, cosmoline, etc. without harming normal finishes.

Spray.
Wait.
Wipe off with paper towels.

I've done this over and over without harming finishes!

[nekshot]

you guys are making me feel brave! I have a gallon of mineral spirits and wd40.Masking tape here I come.

[BrassMagnet]

you guys are making me feel brave! I have a gallon of mineral spirits and wd40.Masking tape here I come.

Just WD-40!

It is 160+ years old! Why rush it?

Spray liberally with WD-40 and then go take a break. It might take a few applications to soak the paper before it starts on the adhesive. When the adhesive is well soaked it will just wipe off easily. Spray again and wait again if needed.

[mattw]

I have used steam from a boiling tea pot snout to warm and moisten it. Then it comes right off.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

My first thought was WD40, but if the tape was over the cracks you want to 'super glue', then I wouldn't want WD40 to seep/wick into the crack.

My second thought was MS...and since waksupi mentioned MS, I would think that would be the way to go...except I don't know how super glue acts on wood if a trace of MS remains?

I did have a third thought of Murphy's oil soap like Grmps mentioned...since it is water soluble...clean up in the cracks to prep for super glue would be ideal.

[Texas by God]

A bit of heat from a heat gun or hair dryer and a soft wood or plastic scraper usually does the trick with old furniture finishes, dont recall trying it on a gun stock thouugh.I have used this trick as well and it worked. I can see WD-40 working as well. That is how I clean Tru oil off of my hands.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Butler Ford]

WD-40 is what the CMP Armorers recommend. It will loosen adhesive, cosmoline, etc. without harming normal finishes.

Spray.
Wait.
Wipe off with paper towels.

I've done this over and over without harming finishes!

^^This^^

BF

[bstone5]

A heat gun and a little rubbing with a paper towel, be patient, it will take some time, do not over heat with the heat gun.

[pietro]

.

I use oil, soaked into the tape with a small brush for a day or two, then gently scrape with a wooden popsicle stick or wider tongue depressor (WallyWorld - $3/pack).

The sides of the popsicle stick can be used as is; but I much prefer cutting both ends off with a razor blade, leaving a chisel edge at a 45-degree angle (It can be done with a single cut, via holding the single-edge blade at the proper compound angle).

Alternatively, the stick can be simply cut into a chisel edge 90-degrees to the length of the stick.



.

[JimB..]

I would go with 0000 steel wool after a light moistening with mineral spirits. WD40 is mostly mineral spirits, and what isn’t won’t be helpful anyway.

Heat is a great help with adhesives, but once they are thoroughly dried you may need more heat than the finish will tolerate.

I would strip, repair, and refinish, but I understand your reluctance to do so.

[DIRT Farmer]

No to the instant glues if you value the gun. No to refinishing it if it has value. There are ways to repair the cracks but they take a lot of time

[Tripplebeards]

I just got done cleaning goo off my scope tube with rubbing alcohol. Works every time and dries leaving no film when done.

The steam and heat method sounds like a great idea as well.

[country gent]

Oils lift and soften most tape adhesives but if you want to glue after then they might be a problem. Mineral spirits has a very light oil to it so might affect glues. Alcohol will remove tape may take several applications do to the speed of evaporation the only residue this will leave is from the tapes adhesive. Finish should be okay with alcohol also.

If the cracks can be pulled together tight gluing can be invisible when done. If not the glue dosnt finish the same as wood and an good eye can spot it.

I would spread crack open if possible and work glue in blow in as deep as possible with a rubber tipped blow gun on an air compressor and clamp tight, The blow gun gets the glue deep into the crack for best penetration. Super glue may cure before you get it clamped tight. ALso super glue isn't as good on porus surfaces aince it soaks in and donst bond as good. THe old wood in the stock is dry and will soak up doing this.

[redhawk0]

Hopefully the finish isn't Shellac based....if it is, Alcohol WILL effect it. Being as old as 160 years...it could very well have some shellac on it. I'd try to find some in conspicuous place to test it with Alcohol first before just giving it a good soaking on the tape.

If its varnish based it will not be effected. As for the crack....if it pulls up tight then use a high quality "Exterior" yellow or white wood glue. After pulling it together with wood clamps, remove excess squeeze out with a damp sponge. If you have a gap...no matter what you do it will show. Try one of the urethane expanding glues to fill the gap and provide a strong bond. But...it won't stain the same as the wood if there is a gap. What I would do in this case is still use the expanding glue, then when it dries carve out a slight recess in the gap below the surface of the wood, then using ultrafine sawdust and white wood glue make a paste that you can smear into the recess gap. This can then be gently sanded smooth to the surface of the stock and stain and finish applied to it. It won't make it completely invisible but it will be less noticeable than just a gap of glue.

redhawk

[charlie b]

Well, first, is it something you would consider valuable or an 'antique'. If it is I would not touch it. Take it to a pro. Much of what is discussed here might ruin any value it has.

If not, then the difficult part is fixing the cracks. How did they start? Was there impact damage of some sort or did the stock split due to age? If due to age then I agree with the fill method of 'fixing' it.

I would fix the cracks first, then worry about the masking tape residue. That way you won't get any of those chemicals in the cracks and prevent adhesion.

[waksupi]

Well, first, is it something you would consider valuable or an 'antique'. If it is I would not touch it. Take it to a pro. Much of what is discussed here might ruin any value it has.

If not, then the difficult part is fixing the cracks. How did they start? Was there impact damage of some sort or did the stock split due to age? If due to age then I agree with the fill method of 'fixing' it.

I would fix the cracks first, then worry about the masking tape residue. That way you won't get any of those chemicals in the cracks and prevent adhesion.

I based my suggestion on over 30 years of restoration work, and having built over 500 firearms.

[scattershot]

Second the GooGone. It’s basically lemon oil, and should remove the tape residue.