Sticky-on Wheel weights in a Sharps Rifle.

[Just Duke]

Just was wondering if sticky-on wheel weights are soft enough to use in a Sharps Rifle?
TIA,
Duke

[John Boy]

Duke - actually they are too soft for BPCR bullets and need to be alloyed to make the melt in the1:20 range

Stick On Weight Composition: 0.377% Sb, 1.45% Sn, 0.029% As, balance lead ... (I'll let you do the math)

[Just Duke]

Duke - actually they are too soft for BPCR bullets and need to be alloyed to make the melt in the1:20 range

Stick On Weight Composition: 0.377% Sb, 1.45% Sn, 0.029% As, balance lead ... (I'll let you do the math)
Thanks John Boy. Guees I'll go with straight WW's then.

[garandsrus]

Duke,

Most folks shooting BPCR are pretty fussy about their alloy. They shoot anywhere from 20:1 to 40:1 lead:tin.

The stick on wheel weights should be just fine if you add some tin to make your preferred alloy. Many people treat them as "pure" lead.

John

[Just Duke]

Where do I get Tin GRUS ? 20 to 1 is not a alot of tin.

[KCSO]

Duke
Get started right and mix a 1-20 or a 1-40 alloy. If you use wheel weights you will not be able to reliably duplicate your melt. Doc Carlson drummed this into me a long time ago. You MUST be able to duplicate exactly as you WILL shoot up a ton of lead and no one pot full willl last more than a practice session or two. Doc sells and uses only certified metal and weighs evey batch he melts and I do too. There is nothing more heart rending than to open a different batch of bullets and find that they hit 1 or 2 inches off from the last batch, especially if it happens in a match. I shoot 200-300 yard matches locally and in one I had 2 groups of about 4 1/2" each as 300 yards one stacked on top of the other. In addition buy a big batch of the primers that work best and use only primers from one lot. You really need to get Mike's boook on Buffalo Rifles and read the match loading instruction as everything he says is top notch. Just like bench rest every componont is a variable and each needs attention. I sort and weigh my cases, I sort and weigh my bullets, I use primers from one lot and powder from one lot only. And each rifle takes it's own load, what a PITA, sure is fun though.

[runnin lead]

for tin & wads email thetinwadman@cox.net 405-799-0376

[Just Duke]

for tin & wads email thetinwadman@cox.net 405-799-0376
I would really like to purchase from board sponsors or members here that have helped me. Thanks for the link though sir.

[twotrees]

There are 3 lots of 5 each 2.2 lb bars up for auction right now.

It is certified 63% tin . It will end the last day of Sept and be shipped as soon as the board has the funds.

Good Shooting,

[John Boy]

http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=3572.0

[Hip's Ax]

Duke, go to the members list, look up vp146b4 and send him an e-mail. I got mine a while ago (March) but Bill has been selling tin for $5 a pound shipped in a flat rate box. I got 35 pounds in a $9.40 flat rate box if memory serves me. Nice tin at a price you can't beat and from a board member. He's famous for throwing in a free pound too.

[Just Duke]

Duke, go to the members list, look up vp146b4 and send him an e-mail. I got mine a while ago (March) but Bill has been selling tin for $5 a pound shipped in a flat rate box. I got 35 pounds in a $9.40 flat rate box if memory serves me. Nice tin at a price you can't beat and from a board member. He's famous for throwing in a free pound too.

Yes! a board member thanks Hip Ax. Then I will do that then. I might have 200 pounds of pure lead coming so how much will I need? 2641 bullets can be made out of the 200 lbs without the tin added. Maybe 3000 530 grainer with the tin? My pot is big enough for a melt this size no problem.

[garandsrus]

Duke,

You may want to make smaller batches until you see what works best for you. For 20:1, use 20lbs of lead and 1 lb of tin. For 40:1, it would just be 1/2 lb tin. You could also make 10lb test batches and just use your casting pot as long as the material was pretty clean.

I bought a lot of tin from Grainger when they had a closeout on lead free solder at under $7/lb. I just checked and it looks like they are out now. I also bought some from a member here. It might be Bill, I don't remember for sure.

John

[Just Duke]

Duke,

You may want to make smaller batches until you see what works best for you. For 20:1, use 20lbs of lead and 1 lb of tin. For 40:1, it would just be 1/2 lb tin. You could also make 10lb test batches and just use your casting pot as long as the material was pretty clean.

I bought a lot of tin from Grainger when they had a closeout on lead free solder at under $7/lb. I just checked and it looks like they are out now. I also bought some from a member here. It might be Bill, I don't remember for sure.

John

Cool thanks GRS. I will give that a shoot. Mucho appreceando!:castmine:

[Hip's Ax]

Duke, any luck getting Tin from this fellow? I was just contacted by a friend and he tells me the fellows e-mail bounces now.

[Just Duke]

Duke, any luck getting Tin from this fellow? I was just contacted by a friend and he tells me the fellows e-mail bounces now.

Yes but PM's are slow coming back.
I going to put up an add.

[Hip's Ax]

Thanks. Good to know that he's alright.

[Just Duke]

Cool! Just got 100 lbs of 50/50!

[Just Duke]

Duke
Get started right and mix a 1-20 or a 1-40 alloy. If you use wheel weights you will not be able to reliably duplicate your melt. Doc Carlson drummed this into me a long time ago. You MUST be able to duplicate exactly as you WILL shoot up a ton of lead and no one pot full willl last more than a practice session or two. Doc sells and uses only certified metal and weighs evey batch he melts and I do too. There is nothing more heart rending than to open a different batch of bullets and find that they hit 1 or 2 inches off from the last batch, especially if it happens in a match. I shoot 200-300 yard matches locally and in one I had 2 groups of about 4 1/2" each as 300 yards one stacked on top of the other. In addition buy a big batch of the primers that work best and use only primers from one lot. You really need to get Mike's boook on Buffalo Rifles and read the match loading instruction as everything he says is top notch. Just like bench rest every componont is a variable and each needs attention. I sort and weigh my cases, I sort and weigh my bullets, I use primers from one lot and powder from one lot only. And each rifle takes it's own load, what a PITA, sure is fun though.

I have 15,000 Winchester LR match primers and 15,000 Win. LR primers all the same lot left over from my tactical shooting. Which should I use?

[Doc Highwall]

On the primers I would use the regular ones for load development and when I found a good load with them try the match primers just to make shure every thing was OK. Save the match primers for serious shooting.