What do people use for dispensing/weighing powder charges?

[44Blam]

I use the little Lee powder measures to get close and weigh/adjust each load on an RCBS beam scale.
It is time consuming, but my charges are pretty accurate.

I've seen the auto dispensers that load into a digital scale - anyone used this? Or do people just trust the dispensers on the turret/progressive presses?

[tazman]

I use the Lee Pro Auto Disk for my handgun cartridges. They hold within .1 grain no problem.
For rifle, I use an RCBS Uniflow and a beam scale.

[sigep1764]

I use a Uniflow measure and the Dillon measures on my 550. I also use the Lee dippers when I'm using my 310 tong tool. I use a digital scale to check accuracy every so often and I've written down what the dippers throw with the powders I use. Its working so far.

[Rcmaveric]

I use the Lee perfect powder measure that drops onto the Lee safety ballance beam. Then trickle to top off if needed

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[modified5]

I use a digital scale and dippers. A trickler is nice for the last top off.

[Walks]

I've used A LYMAN 55 for just about my whole life.
I prefer it over anything else.

I love the RCBS Uni-Flow & the Little DANDY, got one of those the day they came out, got all 28 rotors.

I have the HORNADY L-N-L POWDER Measure with all three different rotor/drums & the previous version too.

I also bought a LYMAN Electronic Powder Measure/scale when they first came out. Bought the #3 upgrade when it came out to speed things up.

And after all that if I had to be reduced to one Powder Measure, it would be a;

LYMAN # 55.

The rotating drum powder measure is more accurate and reliable than any sliding bar measure. You set them, lock them down and don't have to worry about them.
The sliding bar stinks.
I don't trust them. I bought an adjustable bar for my MEC Grabber 12ga Shotgun Loader, it was always going out of wack, almost as bad as a dillon powder measure. I quickly went back to the fixed charge bars with the removable fixed powder bushings.

[roharmon]

Chargemaster

[Thundarstick]

I use the RCBS little dandy rotor for handgun charges, RCBS rotor charger dropper and beam scale for years, but have switched to a digital Hornady scale for rifle loads. Depending on the powder I may, or may not weigh every rifle charge, but usually with about every fifth charge dropped. I've tried a trickle and have one, but I use a tea spoon with a little powder in it to do fine adjustments, if you go over, dip a little out of the pan and start over. I get a very good idea of about how many kernels of a stick powder it takes to bring a charge up to weight with a spoon, heck, I've dipped and weighed a full run many times with a tea spoon.

[Reddirt62]

Dillon powder measure which I check occasionally with a Dillon electronic scale which I check occasionally with a Dillon beam scale.....8)

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[Wayne Smith]

I have multiple powder measures, but the B&M (Belding and Mull) gets the most consistent use. Always checked with either my Lyman M5 scale or my RCBS 1010. I also use a Pacific sliding bar pistol measure frequently. Unless I have my Lyman 55 mounted on my TrueLine Jr I will use the Pacific rotating pistol powder measure there.

[bedbugbilly]

I use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure, a Lyman 55 and just recently got a vintage Redding Micrometer that I'm looking forward to playing with. For scales, I use a RCBS 5-0-5 scale. I have a FA digital scale but it seems to be that it depends on where the powder is in the pan when set on the digital scale as to how accurate it reads. I've found it's just as easy to use the 505 beam scale - in fact, I like that scale so much that I have several tucked away "just in case" as I don' think the 505 is made anymore.

I have found my Lee PPM and the 55s that I have to be accurate - but then again, all depends on the type of powder. For rifle, I usually batch load and just use the beam scale - find a Lee dipper that is close to put the initial about in the pan and then trickle up to desired weight.

On some of my cartridges, I use dippers I've made and with consistent dipping method and checking every few loads on the beam scale, I can dip some pretty accurate loads.

[Texas by God]

I use Lee Dippers, a RCBS scale, a Redding powder measure with two drums, and a neat little Thompson Center priming flask.

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[Kraschenbirn]

I have multiple powder measures, but the B&M (Belding and Mull) gets the most consistent use. Always checked with either my Lyman M5 scale or my RCBS 1010...

Same here. My B&M consistently throws +/- .1 gr with H4895 (and similar) and that covers about 95% of my rifle needs. For most handgun rounds, I just use the factory measures on my Dillon presses.

Bill

[DerekP Houston]

On the turret press I use a lee auto disk, it is accurate enough for my pistol needs and I don't go near max loads. You'll want to use ball powders for best metering. On my LNL AP I use the hornady powder measure, it works well enough and holds charges pretty reasonable. I verify both with my digital frankford scale and if it still looks "off" to my eye with an old rcbs 10-10.

[mattw]

I use a Uniflow for mass production and good accuracy across a range, also for rifle with an old Redding iron trickler. I have a 55 and PPM that are for stubborn tiny charges as well. In the sub 2 grain range they work much better.

[JoeJames]

RCBS standard powder measure, FA digital scale, and a new Hornady trickler. But I filled the cavity in the bottom of the trickler with a mixture of epoxy and about 4 ounces of lead shot; because otherwise it was not very stable.

[one-eyed fat man]

Another vote for the Lyman 55. It's grandfather, the Ideal #5 gets the nod for loading blackpowder cartridges. They have proven themselves over the years.

[Echo]

For pistols, a Pacific/Hornady Pistol Powder measure. 22 standard inserts, and a Dremel or whatever (masking tape, for example) to get exactly what one wishes to throw. Line 'em up in a loading block and have at it. For rifles, an Ohaus Duo-Measure I've had for almost 60 years. Load it with powder, throw 3 loads, dump 'em, throw 3 more into the pan, weigh, make adjustments, and have at it...

[Bent Ramrod]

I have a Chargemaster and used it exclusively for a while. It weighs out even coarse powders to +-0.1 gr. It saves work, but doesn’t save me any time. I can trickle up a load on a scale pan as quickly as the Chargemaster can, and at least I’m doing something and maintaining a skill. With the Chargemaster, I sit watching the machine the same length of time per charge, unable to do anything but wait for the “beep!” that signals the weighing is finished. It’s probably an Attitude thing, but I get so many beeps, chimes, buzzes and other demands for my attention from all the Devices around here that I’m starting to feel like the Meat Adjunct to a bunch of robotic Slave Masters. Filling the thing, calibrating it and setting it up takes enough time so that unless I have to load more than 50 cartridges, getting out the scale and scoops is quicker. So now the RCBS comes out only when I’m feeling neurotic about Weighed Charges, have a bunch of them to do and am feeling lazy.

Once an optimized weight is achieved, I go to a powder measure, which is much faster, and thus saves work and time. In most cases, IME, the exact weight isn’t that critical. I use a B&M measure for most of my smokeless reloading and an Ideal #5 for black powder. The B&M has a sliding chamber that keeps the same head of pressure over the powder chamber, and so keeps the charges from gradually getting lighter as the hopper empties.

But I think Lyman/Ideal got it right in their design. A wide, shallow powder chamber, which is achieved by pulling the slides out on the rotor drum, is intuitively (at least to me) easier to fill consistently, in the absence of baffles, supplemental hoppers or other modifications, than is a narrow, deep one, such as those on most other measures. Once proficiency is attained, judicious use of the “clacker” over the rotor drum can keep the powder charges very close, even as the baffleless hopper empties. Once I set the slide to the proper charge, up to four “clacks” will increase the black powder charge a grain or so, if needed.

I tried a Harrell for a time, which was allegedly superior because the adjustment had “clicks,” and was glad it had a transparent drop tube, because I found it prone to bridging with powders like 3031 and 4198. I could see the short load fall through the tube, then the rest of it, plus the next charge, go through the tube the next time around. Kind of a confidence-buster, that, and having to empty and redo two cases every time it happened made the process slower than with the B&M.

[dondiego]

Lyman 55, Little Dandy with all of the rotors, and a Redding beam scale.

[toallmy]

I am glad someone mentioned the Redding scale , I have had one and used it since the early 80s exclusively for weighing rifle charges and love it . As far as dropping charges I use a lee to drop the powder and trickle to finish for the long guns , handguns generally get a charge from the lee disk on the way around a loadmaster , block loading gets the little dandy , and the 550 takes care of the 223 so far . Shotguns are a box full of bushings . I think I got everything I need now so I'm getting ready to save money right .....

[lightman]

It depends on the powder and the purpose of the load. My Match and Hunting ammo using extruded powders go through the Chargemaster. Other loads using powders that meter easier go through a powder measure. Either a RCBS or a Dillon.

[fredj338]

For precision rifle I often use stick powders & they get hand weighed. For pistol ammo, I mostly use flake or ball spherical powders & they get measured with a RCBS Duo or my Dillon, depending on what I am loading.

[Rick Hodges]

I use a Lee disc on some pistols, a RCBS Lil Dandy on some and for 44 mag. rifle. and a Redding BR powder measure all are checked on a RCBS beam scale. I have also been known to use Lee dippers for small runs of both pistol and rifle ammo.

[gwpercle]

A Lyman 55 and dippers. Most of my dippers I have made to dip a specific weight with a specific powder. Once you learn how, dippers are very accurate .
Weighing is done on an RCBS 5-0-5 beam scale.
Gary

[Dusty Bannister]

I use the RCBS Uniflow with the small drum the most. For small capacity handgun rounds I use the Bonanza Bullseye measure. I fabricated a wider opening in the powder hopper to prevent bridging and have several modified rotors for a specific load and caliber. That is used as a hand held dispenser and the cases are left in the loading block for easy visual inspection after filling with powder.

[whisler]

RCBS Uniflow for rifle and Lee Pro Auto Disc for pistol, both checked with RCBS 5-0-5.

[country gent]

A lot depends on what Im loading. For pistol rounds used for plinking and general shooting the Dillon measures on my 650 woks well. For true match ammo a harrels shutzen size measure is used. For small rifle rounds 22 hornet to 222 size the shutzen measure again does great service. For the bigger rifle rounds a redding br 30, Belding and Mull visible or Standard size Harrels gets used. For Black Powder cartridges the belding and mull or a lyman 55 BP measure. For long range match ammo I have an early RCBS charge master. Here I throw a light charge and use it to bring up to weight.

The measure of choice for me is dependent on type of powder, charge weight, case, volume of the batch and useage. I have used dippers, measures, tricklers. I have measure tubes for the belding and mulls dedicated to set powders charges.

[Taterhead]

Depends on the task. Flake or spherical powder on the progressive, case-activated Uniflows. One has a standard metering drum for large rifle charges, and the other has a small drum for pistol up to 223. Both have a micrometer adjustment to return to a known charge. Also on a stand is another Uniflow. That is typically used for stick rifle powder where I drop and trickle charges onto a scale pan of an RCBS 505 or Ohaus 1010. Scales are always verified with check weights.

[dwtim]

RCBS Uniflow and the 5-0-5 scale. I also have some Lee dippers, because the Uniflow "jams" with certain types of stick powders, and bridges with certain other powders. With rifle powders random a -/+0.5 grain throw is not a huge problem, but could spell trouble with pistol cartridges.

[kayala]

Dillon measures and RCBS chargemaster for load development.

[KenT7021]

I use the Lyman 55 and the RCBS little Dandy mostly.I have several different Lee measures which I haven't used for years.They work OK but I don't really care for them.I also have used the RCBS Uniflow measures.They work fine but I prefer the Lyman 55.
For scales I have a old Herters beam scale,a Redding No 2,and a Lyman M-5.They all work fine.Most of the time I just use an electronic scale that I bought from Ballistic Products.Just faster to set up since I only use scales to set powder measures or weight bullets.

[gundownunder]

I only use a single stage press and have done for over ten years. Started powder measuring with the Lee perfect powder measure, but as I was using a lot of course powders back then I gave up on it due to accuracy issues. Most of the last ten years I have used a set of dippers. Recently I started reloading for my brother and niece as well as myself so needed to up my production rate. I now use a Lee auto drum feeding straight into the expander die, still on the same single stage press. I definitely recommend the auto drum, it's quick and accurate, and with a couple of different inserts you can change loads in seconds.

[Dave T]

The OP question requires a complicated answer, or at least a multi part answer.

First there's the measures on the three SQBs. Then I have both a Little Dandy and a Bonanza Bullseye measure, both with multiple roters. And newest and oldest is an Pacific Pistol Powder measure with its brass hopper and brass rotors. It's getting used to load black powder in pistol cartridges (45 Colt). I've had to drill out the little cavities on a couple to get enough BP out of them but they are surprisingly consistent.

Dave

[Harter66]

Another vote for the Uniflow . I have 2 and they would be perfect if I could just get a small drum for one of them . 3.0 gr of Unique is about as small as they will throw , 63.0 of H1000 isn't any trouble at all . Always within .1 gr .

As for scales I own several .......mostly Lyman Ohaus M5s , but there's been Lee's , 505s , a Redding that looks like a crinkle black 505 and a Hornady digital . I just keep using the M5 . The check weight hits dead on every time and the 500 gr step up weight hits dead on 500 gr and it Zeros every time .

[JWT]

I dispense with an RCBS Uniflow with micrometer adjustment and weigh with an RCBS 10-10 beam scale.

[TaylorS]

I use a Lyman 55 or a unfollow and check/trickle on a rcbs 505 beam scale I’ll use the Lee auto drum on the progressive but I’ll still check to a digital or beam scale once in a while. Got one of the Hornady digital auto dispensers recently no chance to use it yet though


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[Mjdd23]

I use a Lee PPM which drops the powder into the pan of a 505 beam scale then trickle up to weight if needed. Not really fast but I'm in no hurry. Would like to try dippers one day.

[Lloyd Smale]

I got a lesson in being an anal loader a few years back. I was loading for my new at the time 280 win featherweight. It was a 1.5 inch gun at best with every load I shot. I happened to have 7 boxes of 165 grain 7 express ammo out of the same lot number someone gave me. For grins I shot it and low and behold 3 5shot groups went right at an inch. I decided to pull it down and weight the powder to get somewhat of an idea what they were using. I pulled 20 and weighted each charge and they swung for heaviest to lightest a full 5 grains. I chrono'ed 10 of them from another box and got a swing of a 130fps between the fastest one and the slowest. Still shot moa or better at a 100 yards. Now it may have opened up enough out past 300 yards to make a difference but unless your shoot groups for fun or competition exact right down the .10 of a grain trickling of your reloads isn't buying you much. The exact bullet your gun prefers means a heck of a lot more then any precision loading technique. In most cases your better off spending the time your wasting being so anal on trying a different bullet.

[Thundarstick]

There is probably more truth to this than most of us are willing to accept.

[Chihuahua Floyd]

RCBS, both the Little Dandy and Uniflow, plus sometimes I just use a scoop.
CF

[greenjoytj]

I use the little Lee powder measures to get close and weigh/adjust each load on an RCBS beam scale.
It is time consuming, but my charges are pretty accurate.

I've seen the auto dispensers that load into a digital scale - anyone used this? Or do people just trust the dispensers on the turret/progressive presses?

I use a RCBS Chargemaster 1500 with an extra identical 1500 scale.
I move the charged pan to the second scale to verify the charge weight. It rare for the scales to agree on the dispensed weight. Depending on the powder it usually takes 2 to 3 extra individual granules of powder added to the light reading scale to bring both scales into agreement.
That not much extra powder to add to bring the 2 scales into agreement.
My set of check weights measure as they should on both scales.
The auto dispenser is not fast. My Redding Match-Grade Model 3BR powder measure is faster for pistol cartridges if you don’t mind a slight 1 to 2 tenths variation in charge weights.
If you want or need the charge weight to be exact then you need to dump a little low and trickle up, which makes this method slower than the auto dispenser.
My only complaint about the Chargemaster dispenser is it has too many memory features that I don’t use.
I have an RCBS 1010 beam scale but it’s rarely used now that I’ve moved on to the digital age.
I even use the Chargemaster and the 3BR with BP, they work great with BP.
Now my Lyman 55 BP measure with its steampunk style mechanism is collecting dust too.