Starting a new Remington Rolling Block project

[THerbert]

I've had an action from a .43 Spanish rifle that I picked up several years ago sitting on my bench, and I stare at it and try to decide what to do with it. Finally, I've made the decision -- I've always wanted a rifle in one of the famous African safari calibers, but there's no way I'm going to afford a double, and although I like bolt actions, I like single shots more. So, I've decided to use the roller action to build a rifle in one of the big cartridges. I've decided on .416 Rigby, as it seems to be the one for which brass and dies are most easily available.

The first step is doing the cleanup on the action, and polishing the exterior, then dropping it off at Lohman's to be color case hardened. As you might expect, after 100+ years, all the colors, if it ever had any, have turned to a uniform gray. I'll have them do the receiver and trigger guard, and I'll blue the breech block, hammer, screws, pivot pins and button myself. Most of the screw slots are bunged up, so I'll probably order new replacements from Rolling Block Parts.

I have no desire to shoot full-power loads, and I'll be shooting cast boolits in it, of course. I'm not a hunter, just a shooter.

The project will be done in stages, as I can afford it, and I'll do some of it myself, like the wood work. I'm planning on a 30-32" octagonal barrel, and some nice wood.

Comments, suggestions and questions are welcome. Tonight, after I pull the parts out of the Evapo Rust, I'll post some pictures for a "before" series.

[AZ Pete]

just my humble opinion, but I would restrict the choice of cartridge to those that a roller can safely handle. You are proposing to chamber a black,powder action in a smokeless powder cartridge. While in your hands, shooting cast at reduced loads, this may be fine....not necessarily good for a subsequent owner, that tries out some factory loads.

For me, I would shop the black powder cartridges for this rolling block.



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[elk hunter]

Not to say it can't or shouldn't be done but, you should be aware that you will not, in all likelihood, be the last owner. The rolling block, while a very nice action, is not very strong. The 416 Rigby operates at over 40,000 lbs per square inch and if someone, some time, some how put a factory level load in it the action would surly fail. Another thing to consider is that your action was designed to use rimmed cases, the Rigby is a rebated rimless case that will make extraction very problematic. Why not consider one of the earlier black powder calibers, the English used a number of them, i.e. 450 BPE, 500-450 BPE or the 500 BPE, with great success in India and Africa.

Just my $0.02 worth.

[THerbert]

I'm certainly willing to look at other cartridges, as long as I can get brass and dies.

I looked at the rim, and it doesn't appear to be rebated, based on this diagram: http://ammoguide.com/?catid=151. Remington made factory rolling blocks in 7x57mm for Argentina, I think (didn't look it up, working from memory), which is a rimless cartridge of about the same pressure levels, but it's a smaller cartridge, of course, which would give thicker chamber walls. That was what I based my decision on.

I'll do some more looking.

[MOA]

Ok, here's my two cents worth. I'd go with a Winchester 50-90 chambering. Brass not hard to get. Can even trim down 50-140, 50-120,50-110 if needed. The 50-90 is short enough not to have issues with the BB. And, should be safe pressure wise too.

Do you happen to know what # Remington roller action you have? That might play a role in what options you have available for safe and appropriate BP cartridge selection. Just thinking......Or, easier yet, go with Winchester 50-70.

[Nobade]

Keep in mind that you have to be able to load it also. Rollers are limited in how long a case they'll take. Look at what the originals were chambered for, it will give you some guidelines.

[THerbert]

Do you happen to know what # Remington roller action you have? That might play a role in what options you have available for safe and appropriate BP cartridge selection. Just thinking......

It's a #1 Military action -- it has thicker side walls than the #1 sporting action that was sold to the civilian market.

[MOA]

I would think that since you will not be hunting with this project rifle, and you plan on shooting targets, some thought as to how much pounding your shoulder will be repeatedly exposed to via caliber chosen. To download BP, wad spacers will be needed to keep any air space between the end of powder and face of boolit base. Even a 50-70 case is only going to allow around maybe 55-60 grain even when compressed by volume in it due to the modern thicker case walls than the original BP cases of the day. Win 50-90 will offer the ability of 450 to 500 grain boolit, and the length of case to download black powder top with hard cards and still have room for boolit.

[THerbert]

I have another RB in 50-70, and I shoot it with 60 grains of FFg in a Starline case, under a .030" fiber wad and the Lee 450 grain bullet. It's very pleasant to shoot. It's the original rainbow trajectory, in fact when I finished putting it together last year, I added a Marble tang sight, and the sight post isn't tall enough to get it on target at 100 yards! I have to order a taller one.

The purpose of this wasn't just to build the rifle, but to build a rifle in one of the old English safari calibers. I may have to find an alternative way to go about it.

[John Taylor]

I'm certainly willing to look at other cartridges, as long as I can get brass and dies.

I looked at the rim, and it doesn't appear to be rebated, based on this diagram: http://ammoguide.com/?catid=151. Remington made factory rolling blocks in 7x57mm for Argentina, I think (didn't look it up, working from memory), which is a rimless cartridge of about the same pressure levels, but it's a smaller cartridge, of course, which would give thicker chamber walls. That was what I based my decision on.

I'll do some more looking.

The 7X57 was in a #5 action which came out in 1897 and was a bit stronger than the older black powder action. Some of the older actions will not except a large cartridge, they hang up on the hammer or breach block if they are to long and have a large diameter.

[TNsailorman]

Read P.O.Ackley blowup tests on different actions. His results found the rem. roller to be stronger than quite a few modern actions. I don’t have access to those tests handy but if my memory is correct, the rolling block and the Jap type 38 we’re going strong after the Mauser 98 and 1903 had failed. The roller is a really strong action. james

[texasnative46]

THerbert,

Have you considered the .375 Flanged Nitro Express, 2.5", which was a favorite combination gun cartridge of Elmer Keith & quite suitable for game of elk & moose size?? = Cases are rimmed & fairly easily made from .405WCF.

yours, tex

[MOA]

THerbert,

Have you considered the .375 Flanged Nitro Express, 2.5", which was a favorite combination gun cartridge of Elmer Keith & quite suitable for game of elk & moose size?? = Cases are rimmed & fairly easily made from .405WCF.

yours, tex

What Tex says is a great choice too, was just looking at it in Cartridges of the World, along with the 450/400 2-3/8-inch BPE

[texasnative46]

MOA,

Can you think of an "even reasonably available" case that can be reformed into .450/400 NEBP??
(The .450/400 was a favorite of COL Jim Corbett for tiger/leopard.)

yours, tex

[MOA]

Well Tex, I'm not positive, but wouldn't it be possible to use the Hornady 450/400 NE 3" for a case to reform into the 2-3/8"??

[MT Chambers]

The most common really big cartridge chambered safely in a RB is the 50/90 Sharps loaded with real Black Powder, I would not go for anything of higher pressure in an old RB. Lonestar used to chamber them back in the day and I believe they were used on the Buf. plains(not L.S. guns of course).

[texasnative46]

MOA,

Frankly, I'm not near my library & just can't remember. - MAYBE is the best that I can do for now.

yours, tex

[MOA]

Most likely Huntington or maybe CH4 can make the dies, either way dies are going to be the real expense in this caliber range. But this is where the African cartridges usually lead to $$$$$$. I made sure when i got my 400 Jeffery and the 9.3x74R I got plenty of brass all at the same time.

[texasnative46]

MOA,

When you mention 9.3x74 OR 9.3x62mm, you're singing my favorite tunes.
(I once had, until my condo was robbed, a drilling with 9.3x73 on the bottom.)

These days, the 9.3x62mm is my "go to" rifle, if the game is larger than deer.

yours, tex

[M-Tecs]

http://assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1317952094/18

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?52526-Rolling-Block-strenght

[MOA]

Yes Tex, it was a great day for those who want a 9.3x74R in a bolt action rifle, the 9.3x62 packs a very big Wallup.
Sorry to hear about your drilling, was the rest of the combo SXS 16ga???

Two of my African battery.
https://s19.postimg.cc/3xx02i51f/Photo0384.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

I've left a message for Dave at CH4 to see what brass can possibly be used to form the 450/400 Black Powder Express case, dies most likely will run aroung $200 for a three die set. Huntington will be up there too.

One last thought the swiss have a cartridge the 10.3 x 60R Swiss, it might be this same cartridge but under another name, might be worth checking out, that cartridge is still available through RWS.

[texasnative46]

MOA,

YEP. 16x16x9.3x74 = I was heartbroken to have it stolen.

My treasured 9.3x62mm is a Remington Model 760 in .30-06 that was reformatted by Jessie at JES.

Jessie's work is FLAWLESS & very reasonable in price. - The 760 shoots FAR better than I do at age 71.

My next project for Jessie is sending him yet another 760 (that I got for "peanuts", with a badly rusted/pitted barrel).
It will return to TX (very likely) as a .400 Brown-Whelen Improved.
(The .400BWI is every bit as powerful as the "well-regarded in Africa" .404 Jeffrey's. = Nearly 4000FPE is no slouch, using a 400grain GCCB/JSP/solid.)

ImVho, a suitable repeating Dangerous Game Rifle for <350.ooUSD is hard to beat.

yours, tex

[MOA]

Ok, a little more comparative information on the 450/400 2-3/8" BPE and the Swiss cartridge.

The charts
https://s19.postimg.cc/pnvielodv/2018-08-24_18_55_22-pistol1.htm.png (https://postimages.org/)

https://s19.postimg.cc/njb5dj26r/2018-08-24_18_54_41-pistol1.htm.png (https://postimages.org/)

https://s19.postimg.cc/qdeaqywn7/2018-08-24_18_47_48-metric.htm.png (https://postimages.org/)

I think that should get you close enough to work. What you think Tex??

Graf an Sons has it:
Bertram Brass 10.3x60R Swiss Formed Unprimed Box of 20
$84.99 SALE $76.49

[MOA]

Yup, hard to beat that 350.00 with an ugly stick if you tried to. Sound like a fun gun to me.

[texasnative46]

MOA,

Based on your data, I just changed my mind. = As factory cases are available (I'd bet that molds & dies are available, at least in SZ, too.). the 10.3x60R would be my choice in a big-bore, over the .450/400 NEBP.
(Especially since 2 or 3 twenty-round boxes for reusable cases should last a person a considerable length of time as Cast Boolit reloaded ammo.)

I would guess that you could load that 10.3x60mm case with the .41 caliber GCCB to at least 1800FPS, using something like a 300-350 grain hard-cast boolits. = That boolit would "hit" with considerable authority.

yours, tex

[MOA]

Ya Tex, have to agree with your assessment, big 10-4 on a currently produced case with dies, moulds available without a lot of issues. If I didn't already have two 12,7x44R that I like just the way they are and needed a bigger bang stick than my 45-70 I might be temped to alter one of them. I think my 400 Jeffery is big enough for anything I'll be hunting during the rest of my days.

https://s19.postimg.cc/hylomtoxv/20150222_135603.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/op25w9c3j/)

:bigsmyl2:

[texasnative46]

MOA,

UNDERSTOOD.

yours, tex

[THerbert]

Even though it may now be moot, here are the pictures of the roller parts, after they came out of the EvapoRust. They were rinsed in hot water, and as they dried a little surface rust began to form, as you can see in the pictures.The barrel is a stub because I didn't want to store the full-length action. The bore was completely gone, the rifling was more of a suggestion than actual metal, and terribly pitted. However, the action is nearly perfect, as I hope you can see in the pictures. The only pitting on any part of the action is on the edges and bottom surfaces of the tang, where they were in contact with the wood of the buttstock.

226086


226087

226088

[texasnative46]

THerbert,

NIFTY. I'm looking forward to photos of your completed RB.

Fwiw, I'm very fond of & currently have 2 RB rifled military muskets. - One in .50-70 US Government (which was once the property of the USN & also of The Buffalo Guards of the NYSNM) & the other from the Copenhagen Royal Arsenal in 11.7x56mm Danish.

Also, the owner & I are discussing my purchase of a RRB Rifled Musket that formerly (according to the markings) belonged to the National Police of Peru. - It's in 7x57mm Mauser caliber.

yours, tex

[THerbert]

Tex,
My 50-70 started out life as a NYSM rifle; it still has the original stock on it. When I bought the rifle, it had a 20" .30 caliber barrel on it, either a .30-30 or a .30-40 Krag. I couldn't do a chamber cast on it because some previous owner had gotten into the chamber to remove a stuck case, I guess, and used a chisel or something like that. There were gigantic gouges in the chamber walls. But I was able to purchase a custom .50-70 barrel from another member on this site, I think, a 32" half octagon. He had taken it off, and it was just sitting in a corner, so a got it for a very good price, and my rifle shoots very well with it.

Tom

[MOA]

THerbert, I didn't notice in the parts a extractor. What type of extractor is with this action? And what have you been thinking about on a caliber for this project?

[marlinman93]

To start with I think your planned steps are out of order. The very last thing I'd do is apply color case and bluing. Working up stocks, and fitting/bluing the barrel on a freshly color cased receiver is a big mistake. Do all the metal work, and stock work, and then disassemble to have finish applied. I even shoot mine in the white prior to disassembling for finish, in case there's an issue that pops up.
I'd start by polishing out the receiver parts and getting the barrel fitted. Then fit the stocks and once they're closely fitted remove them to put finish on. Then do the final polishing of metal parts, and send them out for bluing and color case. Then reassemble it all when you get stocks done, and finished parts back. This is the standard procedure for building up a gun.
As for caliber, I think the .416 is way too much, and as others mentioned it doesn't matter what you load it for, it's what it might get loaded with later. Lots of great calibers that a Rolling Block will handle, (even BP like yours) but even a later smokeless #5 I would not put a .416 barrel on.
I'd seriously consider the .40-50 Sharps Straight. A wonderful cartridge that will be very inexpensive to get started with, as it uses cheap .303 British or .30-40 Krag brass to make. Dies at C&H4D aren't too spendy at around $108 either. Since there's no factory ammo it will never get loaded with some hot factory load either. I have one presently that's an original with a 30" half octagon barrel, and I'm building another with a 34" full octagon barrel for longer distance shooting.

[bigted]

I would be really interested in reading the tests that a rolling block outlasted mausers and 1903 rifles in strength. I do agree that the rollers are way underestimated strength wise. They are a extremely strong setup but i never thought they would outlast a good bolt gun.

[THerbert]

THerbert, I didn't notice in the parts a extractor. What type of extractor is with this action? And what have you been thinking about on a caliber for this project?


This is a rotary extractor action. The circular part underneath the barrel stub with the vertical projection is the extractor.

I started out thinking that his would make a nice gun in .416 Rigby, but the general consensus among the respondents here is that is not a good choice, for two reasons: one, that is a high pressure cartridge and the action is not strong enough to handle heavy loads. And two, because it is a long cartridge, and because of the geometry of the hammer and the chamber, loading and unloading may be difficult. So now, I'm rethinking caliber, or maybe scrapping the project for now.

[THerbert]

To start with I think your planned steps are out of order. The very last thing I'd do is apply color case and bluing. Working up stocks, and fitting/bluing the barrel on a freshly color cased receiver is a big mistake. Do all the metal work, and stock work, and then disassemble to have finish applied. I even shoot mine in the white prior to disassembling for finish, in case there's an issue that pops up.
I'd start by polishing out the receiver parts and getting the barrel fitted. Then fit the stocks and once they're closely fitted remove them to put finish on. Then do the final polishing of metal parts, and send them out for bluing and color case. Then reassemble it all when you get stocks done, and finished parts back. This is the standard procedure for building up a gun.
As for caliber, I think the .416 is way too much, and as others mentioned it doesn't matter what you load it for, it's what it might get loaded with later. Lots of great calibers that a Rolling Block will handle, (even BP like yours) but even a later smokeless #5 I would not put a .416 barrel on.
I'd seriously consider the .40-50 Sharps Straight. A wonderful cartridge that will be very inexpensive to get started with, as it uses cheap .303 British or .30-40 Krag brass to make. Dies at C&H4D aren't too spendy at around $108 either. Since there's no factory ammo it will never get loaded with some hot factory load either. I have one presently that's an original with a 30" half octagon barrel, and I'm building another with a 34" full octagon barrel for longer distance shooting.

Marlin, you're absolutely right, my procedure is out of order, I was thinking about that last night as I was oiling up the parts after getting them out of the derusting solution.

I also determined that some of my parts are missing. This was a complete gun when I disassembled it, so they were all there initially, but I have the misfortune to be married to a wonderful woman with a flaw: she loves cats. I had all of the parts in a plastic box sitting on my bench, and although the lid was snapped on, when one of her children knocked the box off the bench, the top popped off and parts went everywhere. Apparently, I was not diligent enough when I picked it all up, so now I'm going to have to get down on my hands and knees in the room where I do all my gun work, and find the pivot pins, the trigger and breech block springs and a pin or two.

I thought about going with .44-77, the original RB cartridge, until I looked at the prices for the dies and the brass. The only source for the dies is CH4D at $216, and pre-formed brass are over $3 each for most of them. I haven't looked to see what they can be formed from, if anything.

Another caliber that I wanted a rifle in is .480 Ruger, to go with my Super Blackhawk. But once again, another high-pressure round if loaded with factory ammo @48,000 PSI. A #1 can be had for $13-1400 right now in that caliber, which might be a better choice. I'd prefer a lever gun in that caliber, anyway. I'm trying to get Henry to make a run of them. Rossi made a run of them in the early part of this century, but the last two I've seen on Gunbroker went for nearly $2000, for a gun that was originally less than $500.

I really like big bores, for some silly reason. Besides my .50-70, I have a Handi in .500 S&W which has never seen a factory round, an original Trapdoor, and a Pedersoli Sharps in .45-70. I had a .577 Snider, but couldn't get it to shoot, but it was one of the cache guns, not an original English-made Enfield, so I let it go to a new home. Maybe one day I'll get another. Oh, yeah, and a brand-new Cimarron Uberti '76 Winchester in .50-95. As I said, I like big bores.

The problem with black powder rounds is that they shoot best when loaded to capacity, in my experience. Loading them down, and filling the remainder of the case with wadding has never worked well for me. And large BP rounds with heavy bullets are unfriendly to my aging shoulder -- that's why I originally chose a smokeless round that could be loaded down and shot with cast bullets.

I also don't generally collect multiple guns in the same caliber. I already have two .45-70s, and don't want another .50-70. Even a .45-70 can be painful to shoot with a heavy bullet and a case full of powder.

I'm starting to think that my desires and reality are two parallel lines that are destined never to converge.

[MOA]

THerbert.
I have an idea of what your going through with the multitude of decisions, this caliber or that case, this might work, and then again it has this draw back, ya I kinda feel your pain. This is one of the thoughts I had when I ended up with the two swede rollers in the same caliber, I initially thought I would turn on of them into a 45 colt, and I think I will still do a roller in that caliber, just think it will be another roller. The two I have I plan on leaving as they are, so I will purchase another one and then do the change over to the Colt caliber. I like big bore guns too. Anyways, just a thought, lots of moulds, dies are cheap, brass can be found anywhere, and you can do both black or not as you chose.

[THerbert]

I guess another question would be, is there a gunsmith around that specializes in single shot rifles in the old calibers? That is going to be likely to have reamers for the black powder Sharps and Remington calibers? A go-to guy?

[MOA]

THerbert, One thing you got to keep in mind is the big difference in how the leade and rifling is in a barrel that is made for shooting black powder. Not to say that a modern smokeless rifle barrel cannot shoot black, it's just that when black was all there was for powder the lands and grooves were wider and deeper to help deal with the fouling that black produces, and the modern barrels can get away with narrow and shallower rifling due to the cleaner burning of modern powders. If you are going to be ordering a barrel be sure to get with the mfg to go over what you are planning on so they may offer advice on the barrel design so it will work with your caliber/propellant plan.

[sharps4590]

What the heck, take a stroll through Cartridges of the World's British sporting rifle section. I don't know that I'd pick any big bore smokeless cartridge but they had a pile of 50 cal. and down, BPE cartridges that would be a hoot to work with. Most of them are either available or easily formed from a readily available parent case. Pick the right one and reduced smokeless loads should be a slam dunk as well as full power BP loads when you wanna make some smoke and listen to the boom!

[MOA]

THerbert,

Ok, here's the last 2 cents worth I'll put in. Lots of good advice and thoughtful suggestions have been presented so I'll not try to confuse the issue more for you. In trying to have a large bore African shooter for your project I present this. As suggested above, and elsewhere in the posts, I looked through my Cartridges of the World for black powder pressure cartridges that were used in Africa. The main issue is how to do it on the cheap. This is what I would do. My choice would be to use the 10.3x60R Swiss cartridge. It is the same thing as the 450/400X2-3/8" BPE (black powder express), which was used quite a bit in Africa. What is nice is that you have a better chance of getting dies, moulds, and brass for that caliber without the automatic 200 dollar add on cause it is in the noted "African" caliber clan. Bertram makes the brass, and you should be able to get dies from CH4, maybe RCBS, or Huntington's. Get with Green Mountain Barrels in New Hampshire and find out what they offer in octagon barrels for black powder with a rate of twist for a 400 grain cast boolit. Barrel to go on your action, they'll need to know what your action is, find a good gunsmith cause he's going to have to machine it for your rotary extractor. Figure out what your doing for sights, tang, express or whatever. Guess thats how I would approach it. Most important is the smith, find one that's done this tyoe of work before and it's not their first rodeo. Good luck, hope to hear your progress on this project.

[MOA]

This is a rotary extractor action. The circular part underneath the barrel stub with the vertical projection is the extractor.

I started out thinking that his would make a nice gun in .416 Rigby, but the general consensus among the respondents here is that is not a good choice, for two reasons: one, that is a high pressure cartridge and the action is not strong enough to handle heavy loads. And two, because it is a long cartridge, and because of the geometry of the hammer and the chamber, loading and unloading may be difficult. So now, I'm rethinking caliber, or maybe scrapping the project for now.

Ok, I fibbed, one more post. THerbert, get a dowell of wood abour 4 inches long, about the diameter of a 45-70 case. When you have your breach block and hammer in the action keep cutting the dowell down until it can enter the barrel stub like a loaded cartridge. That will give you an idea of the maximum length your cartridge can be to easily load. It might be longer than you think.

[marlinman93]

THerbert,
You might consider barreling it for the .40-70SS cartridge. Dies are cheap from Lyman, and lots of molds for the .40 caliber available. GM sells a nice barrel in full octagon for the .40 too. Plus you can have it chambered using a .405 Win. reamer, but leave it short by about .10" so .405 ammo wont chamber. Then you can get very reasonable .405 Hornady brass to cut down and fit.
John Taylor did this for my Hepburn in .40-70SS when he relined it, and it makes reloading cheap, and very easy. The caliber is also a good choice for the Rolling Block. I use the RCBS 300-CSA mold which drops about a 330 gr. bullet. It shoots extremely well in both of my .40-70SS chambered guns.

[THerbert]

THerbert,
You might consider barreling it for the .40-70SS cartridge. Dies are cheap from Lyman, and lots of molds for the .40 caliber available. GM sells a nice barrel in full octagon for the .40 too. Plus you can have it chambered using a .405 Win. reamer, but leave it short by about .10" so .405 ammo wont chamber. Then you can get very reasonable .405 Hornady brass to cut down and fit.
John Taylor did this for my Hepburn in .40-70SS when he relined it, and it makes reloading cheap, and very easy. The caliber is also a good choice for the Rolling Block. I use the RCBS 300-CSA mold which drops about a 330 gr. bullet. It shoots extremely well in both of my .40-70SS chambered guns.

I was looking at GM barrels last night, and saw the .40 barrel they have for sale. After the suggestion of the .40-50 SS, I looked at what other .40's were available, and came across the .40-65 WCF, but I think I like your suggestion of the .40-70 SS better. It's a more traditional caliber for an American rolling block, and will be inexpensive to reload for. I don't know why I even care about that after this morning's range session, when I went and shot the .50-95 for the first time. Now I have to buy the dies...

I'm going to put the African caliber rifle aside for now.

What bore diameter are you running in your .40-70SS?

[marlinman93]

I'm going to put the African caliber rifle aside for now.

What bore diameter are you running in your .40-70SS?

I have two different bore diameters. The relined Hepburn is a .408" groove that is a TJ's liner. My GM barreled Rolling Block is a bit larger. I think it's a .410" diameter if a recall correctly.
I'm building another Roller that's a #3.5 weight GM barrel in .40 caliber, and will be a .40-50SS in that one. Also have a Roller with a GM full round 3.5 weight barrel that's in .40-65 caliber. I'm a big fan of the old .40 caliber single shots! Have 5 Ballard rifles in various .40 caliber cartridges too.
Al Springer did the case colors on the .40-65 Rolling Block. I built it on an original Sporting Rifle action I traded into years ago.:

https://i.imgur.com/EidVLkDl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4OJ3CYil.jpg

[THerbert]

That is a beautiful rifle. I hope mine turns out as nice.

[John Taylor]

Getting to the age that I don't care for recoil. Took the barrel off my 45-70 roller and installed a 38-55. Have a few actions and thinking 32-40 for one just because GM had some long octagon barrels on sale and I ended up with 4. Was thinking the 40-50 Sharps would be fun so might do one of those. I must have 9 or 10 different 40 cal. chamber reamers. Just need some time to get to the range and try the 38-55 and 40-65 out that have not been shot yet. Also trying to figure out what to do with a Phoenix that has been on the shelf for the last ten years. Still have not finished the 8X72R that was started years ago. Been to busy working on every one ells guns.

[kokomokid]

Getting to the age that I don't care for recoil. Took the barrel off my 45-70 roller and installed a 38-55. Have a few actions and thinking 32-40 for one just because GM had some long octagon barrels on sale and I ended up with 4. Was thinking the 40-50 Sharps would be fun so might do one of those. I must have 9 or 10 different 40 cal. chamber reamers. Just need some time to get to the range and try the 38-55 and 40-65 out that have not been shot yet. Also trying to figure out what to do with a Phoenix that has been on the shelf for the last ten years. Still have not finished the 8X72R that was started years ago. Been to busy working on every one ells guns.

A good mechanic never gets to work on his own auto. Thank you sir for your expert post. I would like to know what your favorite method of shipping is? I ask because I had UPS almost ruin an antique action.

[John Taylor]

A good mechanic never gets to work on his own auto. Thank you sir for your expert post. I would like to know what your favorite method of shipping is? I ask because I had UPS almost ruin an antique action.

I use UPS only because they have cost me the least in damages so far. Fed-ex destroyed a $2400 stock that was double boxed and told me it was not their fault. USPS tore a box in half and lost a $3,500 action, told me I needed to prove it was in the box. While UPS will refuse to pay for damage they will pay when something is lost. The last item they lost was a new 1885 receiver. I didn't have enough insurance to cover replacement so it cost me $700 out of pocket. Just one of those things that you run into when your in business. The action that was lost was in a small box so it seemed heavy and most likely someone thought it was a pistol. Guns that are lost in shipment are reported to ATF the same as a stolen firearm. If they ever turn up I should get them back.

[marlinman93]

A good mechanic never gets to work on his own auto. Thank you sir for your expert post. I would like to know what your favorite method of shipping is? I ask because I had UPS almost ruin an antique action.

I've used them all and had issues with them all. FeEx will NEVER get my gun shipping business again as they're gorillas! The Rolling Block I pictured above had the tangs bent and those gorgeous stocks broken by FedEx! I built a custom wood shipping crate and fitted the insides to the gun. All sorts of foam packing to keep it from shifting, and it was hanging out the end of the box when delivered by FedEx!
UPS has done damage also, and USPS too. But I've had the best results with USPS, and they're the easiest to pay when they've damaged or lost items.
One thing I'd highly recommend when shipping any rifle. Do not ever ship, or receive a rifle that the buttstock is not removed from if it has two piece stocks!!! Removing the buttstock and packing it beside the barreled action will eliminate 90% or more of possible damage. It will also reduce the length of the box, which will reduce the cost immensely!

[shafer44]

UPS paid off on a damaged gun of mine, the guy that shipped it should be shot. Full length hiwall with a put together box covering the whole thing and newspaper packed around it. I feel lucky that they paid off on it.