Making my own single stage press ...

[wquiles]

The press has been completed and it is operational as of Sept 1st, 2018. I am calling it my "Mega Press" :)

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0302.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0306.jpg



https://youtu.be/22e22iOPlkY

************************************************** **************


Ever since I read this long post, I have been dreaming of making my own reloading press:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?76514-Lets-make-a-Swage-press

Cost was not bad, but I do machining and welding projects, and I have a lot of left over pieces, steel that I bought years ago for other projects, etc., so I decided to try to build the press with as few purchase parts/pieces as possible, even if that "costs" me substantially more time to get it done.

Since I am not interested in a swage press at this point, I have scaled down the ideas from that post, and I have also decided to have the top 30 deg offset from the base for easier access, with the 2 guide/support rods on 4.60" center to center:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0002.jpg


I did buy from McMaster the bushings, and since I have left over 4140 steel rods from another project, all 3 rods (2x support/guide and ram) will be the same diameter:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0001.jpg


I don't have a piece of steel thick enough for the base, but I have 3x pieces I can weld together. I will weld them together on all 4 edges, but will also do internal plug welds to give them more integrity:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0003.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0011.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0014.jpg


Trim the excess:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0017.jpg

[wquiles]

I then of course have to trim and square everything:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0018.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0019.jpg


Then need to make everything as flat as possible:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0021.jpg


This is how the base will look like:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0023.jpg

[wquiles]

I used some scrap aluminum for the guide block:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0024.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0028.jpg




For the top, I am using a steel piece which is right at .72" thick, which I also had to make perfectly flat:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0025.jpg


The top will be drilled for the standard 7/8-14 dies I currently use:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0027.jpg


After marking the center, spot drill, drill, and thread:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0029.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0030.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0031.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0032.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0033.jpg

[wquiles]

Of course I had to test it. I love the fact that this has a LOT less play than the same die in my Rock Chucker :-)
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0035.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0036.jpg


Then using the DRO, I move 2.300" inches on each side to drill the 3/8" holes:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0038.jpg
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0037.jpg


Chamfer the edges:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0039.jpg

[wquiles]

The clearance between the guide block and the top is going to be 6", so the side rods will be right at 7.5" long (EDIT: NOTE this was a design error which I learned later on. These rods should have been an 1" to 1.5" longer, given the ram movement of 6" of travel. So 9" should have been the correct length!):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0040.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0041.jpg


Cutting the 1.5" dia rods (4140 steel):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0042.jpg


(I WILL KEEP UPDATING THE THREAD AS I MAKE MORE PROGRESS)

Will

[Reddirt62]

WOW!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Shawlerbrook]

Man, that is quite a project. Can’t wait to see the finished product.

[robg]

Wow ,wish I had your skills looking toward to the finished product.

[MrWolf]

I will third the wow! Keep posting.

[wquiles]

Thank you guys. I got a little bit more done today before my lathe's coolant pump died :violin:

So before coolant stopped, I was able to start work on one of the guide rods on the lathe:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0043.jpg


Once I got the edge perfectly flat (facing cut) I spotted, and drilled a hole for the 3/8" bolts, and started the threads so that they would be perfectly aligned with the hole/center:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0044.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0045.jpg



I then started work on the OD. It is approx. 1.5" in diameter, and it needs to be turned down to 1.250" for the bushings (which have an ID of 1.251" or so):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0046.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0047.jpg


Once to proper diameter, I used my large gauge to mark 7.5":
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0048.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0049.jpg


And just as I was going to part the rod to size, to then drill/tap the other hole, the pump stopped. After trying several things, I decided to go ahead and open it:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0050.jpg


Yup, the internal capacitor exploded:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0051.jpg



4140 steel is a little tough to machine without the coolant, so I stopped for today. The replacement pump arrives during the week, so hopefully next weekend I can continue making progress.

Will

[KenH]

I have this thread marked to follow. Good job!

[TNsailorman]

Better than I expected, you have me on edge to see more. james

[Beau Cassidy]

Very nice! I can't wait to see the finished preaa.

[Shiloh]

What an amazing skill.
Post finished product.

Shiloh

[Taterhead]

VERY cool project. Like those posting before me, I'm excited to see this project unfold. Please keep us posted!

[Steppenwolf]

Great project and photos too, lets us live vicariously though you :)

[EMC45]

Excellent pics, write up and progress. I look forward to seeing the end result as well.

[Lloyd Smale]

cool but you defineatly have to have more time then money and even buying the steal has to put you up near the cost of a used rock chucker. You remind me of my neighbor. He has a lathe and a milling machine and will spend 3 days making something he could buy for 50 bucks. But he has fun doing it anyway.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Lloyd: It doesn't have anything to do with the money. It's all about the project.

I'm building a entire Jeep from scratch. and I mean from scratch. I couldn't, and still can't, buy a Jeep with a Diesel engine in it, even though they have been promising it for 20 years +.

The only Jeep part on this vehicle is the Grill! I built the entire drive train, frame and undercarriage. Body is Fiberglass. It has A/C, Yukon Denali Seats and is close to being driveable.

I could have probably bought a new Jeep and swapped in a diesel with all the necessary mods for what I've got in this project. Practicality has about as much to do with it as not "needing" a new gun. But you still buy it!

But it wouldn't be this Jeep! This one will last me and whomever buys it from me for the rest of our lives. I try to build things so I don't ever have to work on them again. Sometimes I get it right.

Sorry for the Hijack but I know exactly where the OP is coming from, and I already did the reloading press project.

Good luck on your project and we'll need to see finished pics when done. I know where you're coming from, and you're doin' good!

Randy

[jmorris]

I agree and disagree Lloyd. You can buy a used RCBS for $50 but you can’t buy what the OP is going to have for $50.

I build lots of stuff I could buy but I also have lots of stuff I couldn’t afford if I bought everything vs doing things myself.

I could have called an AC repair company when it was 108F and an AC unit quit on Sunday, who knows what that would have cost but instead I went out to my shop and in what my wife calls “junk” found a capacitor that had it back cooling before a repair man could figure out just how much they wanted to gouge me.

Good work wquiles keep it up and we might be close enough to have a few beers sometime.

[wquiles]

Guys,

Money is of course important, but not the main consideration for me. It is in fact like Randy said - it is about the project; what I will learn through it, how it will teach me new things, or refine the few things I know, etc.. I usually strive not to just duplicate something, but try to improve it, or make (whatever it is) more suitable for how I plan on using it. Even if it will "cost" me lots of time, I usually prefer to make something than buy something, if my equipment and skills are up to it. I absolutely hate the idea of paying for somebody to do or make something for me that I "could" make, but I also recognize my limitations and still end up buying where is makes sense to me.

In fact I already own (all bought new):
- Rock Chucker, which I use for some operations, including cast bullet sizing with the Lee push through dies.
- Lee 4x die turret press that I use the most, and
- Dillon 550b which I use for some handgun rounds:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0056.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0057.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0058.jpg



There are things I don't like about each one of them bullet presses, so part of my goal with this project is to try to incorporate some of the ideas/improvements I wish for. As a home machinist, I absolutely hate how much play there is in all of these off-the-shelf, mass-produced presses, so trying for something with less play, better alignment would be a nice by-product of making my own. I also hate that most of the presses are "fixed", with very little adjustment, regardless of whether I am using them for sizing or making rounds. Even if it does not make any difference in the quality/concentricity of the ammo, "I" would feel better being something "I" designed and built, and it will hopefully have some adjustability to make it more versatile to use. I am sure it will be a fun project to learn more about machining, welding, hydraulics, etc..


I guess I am "weird" like that on everything I do, including other hobbies, like LED flashlights - just a few of those prior projects/guides here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?323466-Introducing-the-MagnetoDrive-with-SmartDial&highlight=

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?257554-Introduction-to-modifying-flashlights&highlight=

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?408423-Step-by-step-guide-to-making-a-1xD-Mag-host&highlight=

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?288770-Sales-Thread-for-the-Black-Edition-PhD-M6-custom-battery-pack&highlight=




Lastly, I like the single step reloading (Lee or Rock Chucker), but as I get older I am getting tired of swinging the press' arm, so I want to make this press so that I can use it with a hydraulic system with it. I of course considered for several weeks a retrofit of an existing press, but decided on a design variant of the thread I referenced in my first post, and instead of a retrofit, I am designing the hydraulic capability from day one. Even though swaging is not my "current" goal, I did research a lot about how much construction and how much PSI "power" I would need if I wanted the setup to be able to swage metal, and came up with a massive 4" diameter piston (about $80 shipped) - that is a 6" ruler for reference:
http://www.swage.com/ebooks/tb-4.htm

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0055.jpg


By the way, the good people from Amazon brought me the replacement pump - already installedI and ready to go :-)
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0059.jpg


I hope to continue making slow progress this coming weekend :)
Will

[Lloyd Smale]

ya I understand. theres a lot of pride in accomplishing something like that. By the way my son in law is a diesel mechanic and is in the middle of the same project you got there. Hes got a 68cj and the diesel is already sitting on the frame of his. I forgot what it is but I think it was a 4 cyl cummings but don't hold me to it. Came out of some kind of delivery truck
Lloyd: It doesn't have anything to do with the money. It's all about the project.

I'm building a entire Jeep from scratch. and I mean from scratch. I couldn't, and still can't, buy a Jeep with a Diesel engine in it, even though they have been promising it for 20 years +.

The only Jeep part on this vehicle is the Grill! I built the entire drive train, frame and undercarriage. Body is Fiberglass. It has A/C, Yukon Denali Seats and is close to being driveable.

I could have probably bought a new Jeep and swapped in a diesel with all the necessary mods for what I've got in this project. Practicality has about as much to do with it as not "needing" a new gun. But you still buy it!

But it wouldn't be this Jeep! This one will last me and whomever buys it from me for the rest of our lives. I try to build things so I don't ever have to work on them again. Sometimes I get it right.

Sorry for the Hijack but I know exactly where the OP is coming from, and I already did the reloading press project.

Good luck on your project and we'll need to see finished pics when done. I know where you're coming from, and you're doin' good!

Randy

[W.R.Buchanan]

That is the source for most of these engines. Mine came out of a Doritos Van.

Randy

[jmorris]

With the 4” cylinder at operating pressure you could destroy any reloading press you could buy.

[wquiles]

With the 4” cylinder at operating pressure you could destroy any reloading press you could buy.
Yes, definitely possible. I have to admit I am a little bit worried, being my first such project. I have been planning, studying this since about Q1 of this year, but I am not yet sure which way I will go. I am planning on an adjustable 1-to-1 and 2-to-1 ratio (cylinder/ram movement) positions, which would also double the force of the cylinder. The cylinder has 6" of travel (which explains the 6" of ram travel in my design) when operating in a 1-to-1 mode. In 2-to-1 mode, the 6" of cylinder travel will result in 3" of ram travel, which will be convenient for reloading handgun ammo, some "shorter" rifle ammo, bullet sizing, etc..

Since trying to use stuff at hand is a self-imposed criteria for the project, and since I have 260 gallons of air storage attached to my 2-stage 5HP Quincy compressor, at this point my intent is to use pressurized air with flow/speed control valves/limiters.

As most probably know, once you pressurize the cylinder with compressed air, the cylinder "flies" to the other end almost instantly, which is not quite the behavior I want for my press. So besides the flow/speed control valves, I am also considering an air/oil system such as this one. I looked into bare components, tube wall thickness, etc. to make my own, but it sounds a little complicated and expensive - hence why I think I will try with compressed air first:
http://www.fabco-air.com/pdf/Sec_9.pdf

Will

[jcren]

Air over hydraulics works quite well. I used to build industrial metal cutting bandsaws and the cheaper models ran on air. Using a simple presurized reservoir of oil and a flow control valve powered the cut ram for a smooth and speed adjustable cut. Air returned the cylinder and pushed the oil back into the res.

[wquiles]

Air over hydraulics works quite well. I used to build industrial metal cutting bandsaws and the cheaper models ran on air. Using a simple presurized reservoir of oil and a flow control valve powered the cut ram for a smooth and speed adjustable cut. Air returned the cylinder and pushed the oil back into the res.

I would please like to hear more about your experience with the air over oil systems. The PDF I mentioned earlier, under the notes section shows a top and also a bottom baffle, a fill port, drain port, and of course the air flow and oil flow ports:
http://www.fabco-air.com/pdf/Sec_9.pdf

I though that since the piston has a volume of about 1/3 of a gallon, a simple 1 gallon compressed air tank would suffice by drilling and welding the extra ports; but I am not sure about the need/requirement for the baffles?

[DonMountain]

I think operating a reloading press with hydraulic power provided by some sort of valving mechanism will remove all "feel" from the operation, leading to disastrous results with the cases being resized, loaded, etc. If you design for a 500 pound ram force, that is what you will get no matter if the sizing die is slipping down over the case properly or crushing it. My suggestion is to use a "Port-a-Power" style hand operated hydraulic ram that is hand operated, providing a certain "feel" of the progression of the press through its reloading stages. A double action "Port-a-Power" could be built with another hydraulic cylinder attached with two lines with snap couplers so you cold reverse the direction of your power stroke, and maybe have a "loading lever" with several attachment points from its base pivot so you could in effect "gear up or gear it down" for different speeds of operation or force applied at the press.

[Smoke4320]

Awesome project .. Wish I have the equipment and time to do project along that scale

[wquiles]

I think operating a reloading press with hydraulic power provided by some sort of valving mechanism will remove all "feel" from the operation, leading to disastrous results with the cases being resized, loaded, etc. If you design for a 500 pound ram force, that is what you will get no matter if the sizing die is slipping down over the case properly or crushing it. My suggestion is to use a "Port-a-Power" style hand operated hydraulic ram that is hand operated, providing a certain "feel" of the progression of the press through its reloading stages. A double action "Port-a-Power" could be built with another hydraulic cylinder attached with two lines with snap couplers so you cold reverse the direction of your power stroke, and maybe have a "loading lever" with several attachment points from its base pivot so you could in effect "gear up or gear it down" for different speeds of operation or force applied at the press.

Well said, as I also agree there is risk with the way I am moving forward. Although there will be no tactful feel/feedback in this project except for visual & sound, I am trying to compensate a little by using the air/oil system, so that I can slow down the ram movement enough that I "could" stop at the earliest sign of trouble. I will proceed cautiously, and I look forward to learn from this project.

[jcren]

I would please like to hear more about your experience with the air over oil systems. The PDF I mentioned earlier, under the notes section shows a top and also a bottom baffle, a fill port, drain port, and of course the air flow and oil flow ports:
http://www.fabco-air.com/pdf/Sec_9.pdf

I though that since the piston has a volume of about 1/3 of a gallon, a simple 1 gallon compressed air tank would suffice by drilling and welding the extra ports; but I am not sure about the need/requirement for the baffles?

I don't think baffling would be necessary on a vertical stationary system. The pressure reservoir we used was just a simple fabricated aluminum cylinder with a clear tubing sight tube to monitor oil level. Cylinder was filled about 3/4 full to prevent foaming and splashing and a pressure regulated air supply fed to the port in the top cap adjusted cut pressure by pushing oil out a port in the bottom cap that ran through the flow control valve (one way restricted, reverse open flow) and to the rear of the ram. Air fed to the front of the ram returned the oil when the pressure was released from the reservoir. The air valve was a 3-way type that dumped air from one line when pressure was applied to the other. Very simple system and since the reservoir can be mounted virtually anywhere, fairly compact.

My old phone with pics died and I can't find anything in the net showing the air system, but these were Hemsaw v100l machines which sold for $20,000 plus, so i figure if they needed baffles, they would have had them.

[wquiles]

Awesome, thanks. I ordered the 1Gallon air tank, and the flow control valve today so that I can start looking at logistics for mounting, etc.. Given the weight/bulk I am "considering" making this a stand-alone "mini bench", with wheels, so that I can move/relocate when in use. I will buy hoses, adapters, etc. later on as I get closer.

[EddieZoom]

Sadly, I don't even recognize some of the tools you are using in your project ;-)

Again....WOW !!!

[wquiles]

With the new coolant pump I resumed work today. Started by parting the first rod to approx. 7.5":
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0060.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0061.jpg



Then spot drill, drill, and partially thread:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0062.jpg



First rod almost ready:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0063.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0064.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0065.jpg

[wquiles]

Then start on the second rod:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0066.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0067.jpg


Look identical to the naked eye, but they are not "exactly" the same length:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0070.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0071.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0073.jpg


I marked them, and I need to go back later and trim them to match as close to each other as possible, so that the top plate (that holds the die) is perfectly aligned with the ram.

I also noted that the surface finish on these rods was not that great, so I put a new insert in the tool - here is a close-up of the cutting edge and the chip breaker:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0074.jpg

[wquiles]

With a new insert, I started work on the ram itself. The bottom side will be threaded 3/8" like the support rods:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0075.jpg


The top will be threaded 7/8"-14 so that I can use any threaded shell holder and also so that I can install regular dies if I ever need it:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0076.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0077.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0079.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0080.jpg



I have not chamfer the inner edge here, but here is a close-up:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0082.jpg

[wquiles]

I then started turning the OD to about 1.250" or so. With the new insert surface finish was definitely a little nicer!:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0083.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0084.jpg


Quick test with the bushing before removing from lathe:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0085.jpg



This is how the rods look like as of today. I only started the threads to ensure concentricity - I still need to go back and finish all of the threads!:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0086.jpg



And this is a mock-up of the pieces for the press. Looks pretty beefy, right?
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0088.jpg



Next I need to start drilling the holes in the base and boring them to size (1.500", for the bushings) - I will be doing this on the milling machine.

Will

[bedbugbilly]

Fantastic work sir and an interesting project! Really enjoying reading about it and the photos. Thanks so much for sharing!

[FSR]

Ya Hooey this is a fine looking project. You have some major skills.

[dverna]

It must be a Michigan thing but I am with Lloyd. I applaud the amazing skill needed to accomplish this but see little value in it. If I want strengthin a single stage press I use the RC....and if I want accuracy, I use the Co-Ax.

For me it boils down to cost and benefit. And time is not “free”. For example, I have a lathe and could make my own dies but it is not worth it. At least for me.

Still I admire the talent shown here. Great craftsmanship

[nekshot]

This is better than going to the library! Did you buy the taps with the hole in end for using the pin to chuck or whatever your using?

[wquiles]

This is better than going to the library! Did you buy the taps with the hole in end for using the pin to chuck or whatever your using?

So far every tap I have has the alignment hole in the end. That alignment pin is spring loaded, so it maintains alignment while you tap :drinks:

[wquiles]

Yesterday (Sunday), I was able to work in the slightly tricky base, which is offset 30 degrees to the top. I started by marking the hole for the ram, which is on 4.600" centers to the support rods:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0089.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0090.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0091.jpg



Center with the laser, and drill a 1" hole (biggest drill bit I have at the moment):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0092.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0093.jpg



Then the very slow and tedius boring process, to open the hole to 1.500" to match the busing's OD:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0094.jpg



Not quite there yet:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0095.jpg

[wquiles]

Eventually I "sneaked" at the right value for a great fit:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0096.jpg



Next, using "math" (teachers said it would "eventually" come handy, right?), I use the DRO to find the support rod's drill locations (3/8"):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0097.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0098.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0099.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0100.jpg



With the base nearly done, I finished threading the 2x support rods:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0101.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0102.jpg



And then the ram:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0104.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0105.jpg

[wquiles]

Here is how things look like at this point. I am currently using a Lee Ram Prime on the ram, but I plan on replacing with a steel one, from Lyman or RCBS:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0106.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0107.jpg



I went back and trimmed the support rods to get them equal (goal is 0.001" or less):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0108.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0111.jpg



Last thing I did yesterday was start work on the supporting block/guide. I drilled and bored the hole to match the 1.250" of the ram, but it is not quite wide enough to hold the edge of the two outer support bushings, so I am making another one from another scrap aluminum piece:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0112.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0113.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0114.jpg



Will

[Clark]

Wquiles great posts on flashaholics got me to buy my Precision Matthews 1236 lathe with DRO in 2009.

Also 10 years ago my brother and I were at a gun show and saw an old homemade reloading press. It did not have the "modern Pacific" shell holders and we had to get an adapter.

The machinist that made it must have been dead for decades. Since then we found a press that it may be cloned from.

[Pressman]

The press pictured is a clone of the Easton Big Giant from 1949.

Modern shellholders originated at RCBS in 1955.

Ken

[Walter Laich]

Wquiles great posts on flashaholics got me to buy my Precision Matthews 1236 lathe with DRO in 2009.

Also 10 years ago my brother and I were at a gun show and saw an old homemade reloading press. It did not have the "modern Pacific" shell holders and we had to get an adapter.

The machinist that made it must have been dead for decades. Since then we found a press that it may be cloned from.

$25???

I would have jumped on that just 'because'

nice find

[slim1836]

What's the chances of being the benefactor of the Jeep? I'll call you dad from here on out.

Slim

[wquiles]

Wquiles great posts on flashaholics got me to buy my Precision Matthews 1236 lathe with DRO in 2009.

Well, as you can see, I am "still" using my PM1236 from 2006. With every project I learn a little bit each time ;)

[Clark]

..

Modern shellholders originated at RCBS in 1955.

Ken

You sure sound like you know.
If feels like got the facts wrong, not misremembered them.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?107976-Pacific-Presses-and-shell-holders
I think I can see how I went wrong.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Thanks Slim, I Mean "Son"

I'll have my wife contact you after I croak.

Randy

[W.R.Buchanan]

OP I do have one question,,, since you have put so much work into this project may I ask why you didn't start with some fresh pieces of metal?

Also hot tip: When making top and bottom plates which have aligned holes, drill and bore them at the same time in the same setup. That way the holes are always aligned.

keep up the good work

Randy

[wquiles]

OP I do have one question,,, since you have put so much work into this project may I ask why you didn't start with some fresh pieces of metal?

Good question. I feel the 3x main reasons are:
- I do have a good amount of steel, either left-over from projects, given to me by others, bought for cheap when another welder retired (he used to make knives); even a large 14"x14" by about 3/4" steel plate that I found when doing a cleaning project with Boy Scouts (yes, heavily rusted!). So I "really" wanted to start using it, instead of just keeping to accumulate it. This self-imposed "rule" is forcing me to look and use what I have at hand.

- I had not weld anything recently for myself or others, so I liked the challenge of welding/preparing the base made of individual thin plates. Granted, now that I have done it, I probably would not do a new base like this one - I would for sure buy a single piece of steel for the base!

- I have never worked with something like this project, never bored for/installed metal bushings, not anything this size, so I felt better using materials I already had to minimize loses if/when I screw-up. I am looking at this project as a "prototype" of sorts, so to me it would had been a potential waste of money to buy new steel to try something new. Depending on how this press turns out, if I were to consider making another one, I would certainly save time buy buying some/most of the steel new.





Also hot tip: When making top and bottom plates which have aligned holes, drill and bore them at the same time in the same setup. That way the holes are always aligned.
I have been a little worried about messing each piece, let alone 2x or all 3x pieces at the same time, abut I do agree it would have resulted in even better alignment. At least the DRO has been very useful for this project this far.





keep up the good work

Randy
I still struggle and stumble along the way (like when I realized I needed a wider guide "after" I drill & bored the hole for the ram :-) ), so I know I still have a lot to learn. Thank you for your kind words :)

Will

[Grmps]

He's frugal, and... you also feel better when you make something nice out of the junk (I mean treasures) you have lying around.
Sure wish I had the tools and technology to do stuff like that.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Thank you guys. I got a little bit more done today before my lathe's coolant pump died :violin:

So before coolant stopped, I was able to start work on one of the guide rods on the lathe:

And just as I was going to part the rod to size, to then drill/tap the other hole, the pump stopped. After trying several things, I decided to go ahead and open it:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0050.jpg


Yup, the internal capacitor exploded:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0051.jpg



4140 steel is a little tough to machine without the coolant, so I stopped for today. The replacement pump arrives during the week, so hopefully next weekend I can continue making progress.

Will

Will,

The bad capacitor at the top of the pic is a 15 micro-Farrad Capacitor, 5%, 250 (can't see it well, for 220V under loads) Volt Alternating Current that has failed. You can very easily get a new one and likely repair your old pump so you'll have a backup. All the specifications are listed on the capacitor and it's what is causing your motor not to work, they often fail with age and need to be replaced, similar to the ones on Air Conditioner compressor motors, cabinet saw motors, etc. Do a web search for Digi-key or electronic parts, motor capacitor and you should find one you can purchase for much less than the pump. If you have questions, please feel free to pm me and I'll help you.

Dave

[wquiles]

This one was pretty old and when I got it out of the coolant tank I noted it was "very" hot, so it likely over-heated. I didn't even consider trying to fix it, but that is a great idea if/when it happens again. Thanks much :-)

The interior volume was sealed with two o-rings and had some special "oil", which of course was lost then I got it open. Do you know what type of material/fluid would be the proper replacement?

Will

[W.R.Buchanan]

Will: Nothing wrong with learning,, Everybody has to do it.

I have found that if the stock costs more I tend to be much more careful.

I recently made a fairly complex dash board for my Jeep. The piece of aluminum plate was cut to size for me and was 9x57". It wasn't cheap and I had to make a bunch of holes in it. I spent a considerable amount of time planning that job and it came out almost perfect,,, except for some changes I had to make mid stream.

I actually sweat some blood on that one because I could afford to screw it up.

Ya Kinda gotta wanna.

[BigEyeBob]

Good question. I feel the 3x main reasons are:
- I do have a good amount of steel, either left-over from projects, given to me by others, bought for cheap when another welder retired (he used to make knives); even a large 14"x14" by about 3/4" steel plate that I found when doing a cleaning project with Boy Scouts (yes, heavily rusted!). So I "really" wanted to start using it, instead of just keeping to accumulate it. This self-imposed "rule" is forcing me to look and use what I have at hand.

- I had not weld anything recently for myself or others, so I liked the challenge of welding/preparing the base made of individual thin plates. Granted, now that I have done it, I probably would not do a new base like this one - I would for sure buy a single piece of steel for the base!

- I have never worked with something like this project, never bored for/installed metal bushings, not anything this size, so I felt better using materials I already had to minimize loses if/when I screw-up. I am looking at this project as a "prototype" of sorts, so to me it would had been a potential waste of money to buy new steel to try something new. Depending on how this press turns out, if I were to consider making another one, I would certainly save time buy buying some/most of the steel new.





I have been a little worried about messing each piece, let alone 2x or all 3x pieces at the same time, abut I do agree it would have resulted in even better alignment. At least the DRO has been very useful for this project this far.




I still struggle and stumble along the way (like when I realized I needed a wider guide "after" I drill & bored the hole for the ram :-) ), so I know I still have a lot to learn. Thank you for your kind words :)

Will

Your project is every day stuff for me ,Ive been doing this type of work for 48years ,
You know , I still make mistakes . Ive never used a dro until last year ,when I bought a new lathe , dont have one on my milling machine ,just use old school methods to find centers etc .Your laser center finder is interesting ,wonder if you would share its details .I have a project in mind to make a centering scope ,using an old fixed power rifle scope ,it has no windage or elevation adjustments on it .Seems to work ok looking backward down the objective lens ,I need to do some more research and spend more time checking it out.Just on a long list of projects .Your press project is coming along nicely .

[wquiles]

Will: Nothing wrong with learning,, Everybody has to do it.

Thanks much, and pretty nice work there on the Jeep!



Your project is every day stuff for me ,Ive been doing this type of work for 48years ,
You know , I still make mistakes . Ive never used a dro until last year ,when I bought a new lathe , dont have one on my milling machine ,just use old school methods to find centers etc .Your laser center finder is interesting ,wonder if you would share its details .I have a project in mind to make a centering scope ,using an old fixed power rifle scope ,it has no windage or elevation adjustments on it .Seems to work ok looking backward down the objective lens ,I need to do some more research and spend more time checking it out.Just on a long list of projects .Your press project is coming along nicely .
Thank you for the encouraging words. I hope to make good progress tomorrow Saturday :)

As to the laser edge/center finder, here are a couple of photos:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0133.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0134.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0135.jpg

[BigEyeBob]

Thanks for the info on the lazer center finder .I'll look for one online Currently I use a precision ground 60deg pointer i guess you would call it ,I just mount it in a collect and follow my mark out lines ,I mark out with a vernier hieght gauge to get the accuracy . My mill has metric dials ,fortunately Im able to work in the imperial system and metric .One of my lathes is Imperial ,the bigger one has metric and imperial graduated dials .I guess it would not be too difficult to fit a dro and glass scales on the mill.

[wquiles]

I must admit I am 100% spoiled with the DRO's. I got one on my knee mill (Enco 8x28, I think), and my lathe PM12x36. They certainly make life easier and I can concentrate more on the task at hand than on counting revolutions by hand and remembering everything in my head :)

[wquiles]

Big day yesterday, good progress :)

I started with making a new guide from another scrap piece of Aluminum:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0140.jpg


Get everything flat:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0148.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0151.jpg



Use laser to center, center drill, drill 1" hole, then bore to size (1.251" for the ram):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0152.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0153.jpg


Then repeat for the two guide rod bushings (1.501"):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0155.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0156.jpg

[wquiles]

At this point I must admit I was worried since I had no idea if all of the pieces would align (and not bind!) as designed. So I got my welding table, clamped the base, and assembled the press for the first time (I have a small aluminum piece holding the guide in place):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0157.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0159.jpg




Noticed how I have a blank die threaded through the top and through the ram to test for alignment. To me this was the most rewarding part, as even with these "tied" everything aligned and moved smoothly:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0160.jpg

[wquiles]

Today I need to drill and tap two opposing set screws on the guide to keep it tied to the ram, and that will be pretty much all needed on the aluminum guide.

But I also did a little more work on the ram itself yesterday. Even though I am not yet interested in swaging, since the press is inherently over-built for reloading, I keep looking at ANeat's swaging press (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?76514-Lets-make-a-Swage-press) for inspiration, and decided to deepen the hole through the ram so that it might be possible to use with shorter swaging dies, by making a little bit more room for the ejector punch by drilling a 3/4" hole through the ram:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0141.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0142.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0143.jpg



Unfortunately my large 3/4" drill bit is not long enough, so this is all I was able to do. It might work with "short" dies only for now:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0144.jpg

[wquiles]

I still can't use the press since there is no way to move the ram yet, but now it is a good point to share my initial drawings from back in April, basically 3-4 months before I actually started cutting metal, just so you get an idea of what I was thinking at the time:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0128.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0129.jpg



Before I decided to use scrap material I already had at hand, I even priced the steel to make the press:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0130.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0131.jpg



And this press (posted in ANeat's thread), was one of the two inspirations for the variation for the 30 degree offset, even I don't know if it is really 30 degres:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0132.jpg


And this was the other, commercial/custom press that confirmed the 30 degree offset was a viable idea (although I am not sure it is really 30 degrees either):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0138.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0139.jpg

[wquiles]

I will admit that although I have several ideas, I am almost finished with the basic press, and I have not decided how I will proceed with the ram and the linkage(s) and the air/oil cylinder. According the Corbin's ebook (http://www.swage.com/ebooks/tb-4.htm) (awesome reference by the way!), with 120psi and a 4" piston, I should be able to easily swag .224 though .243 bullets without any additional mechanical leverage, and almost .308 bullets. If using certain types of soft lead, I should be able to form .224 to .357 bullets nicely. So I am debating on:
- Attach cylinder directly to ram, or
- Some sort of linkage to provide adjustable 1-to-1 to at least 2-to-1


To be honest, I am leaning towards the direct connection at this point :)


So far I got the cylinder (6" travel), the flow control valve, the 1 gallon tank, and 1 gallon of hydraulic fluid:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0115.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0116.jpg

[jmorris]

I don’t know what you have air wise but that cylinder looks like much more than 120 psi max. If you can develop more pressure you shouldn’t need to complicate things with linkages.

Your twin guide/center ram design reminds me of some pneumatic actuators that came in a lot of stuff I won in a auction.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PY0SwjLJge4

[wquiles]

I don’t know what you have air wise but that cylinder looks like much more than 120 psi max.

Yup, 2500psi working pressure. But trying air/oil for now :)



If you can develop more pressure you shouldn’t need to complicate things with linkages.

Agreed. I however have one thing to work out. Since the press/ram and the cylinder are separate assemblies, and even if I try to align things well, I have to assume that the cylinder will not be 100% in-line with the ram's axis. So, how can I attach the ram to the cylinder in a way that I am not forcing mis-alignment in the ram and premature wear on the bushings on the press? I guess I need some sort of coupling that can take a little bit of play and self-center?

Ideas/suggestions?

[jmorris]

Well you already have a clevis on the cylinder all you need is a flat milled into both sides of the shaft and a hole cross ways for the pin.

[wquiles]

Well you already have a clevis on the cylinder all you need is a flat milled into both sides of the shaft and a hole cross ways for the pin.

Gotcha. The pin on the clevis is about 1" dia, and the ram's OD is 1.250", so I don't want to drill the ram and end up with that thin of a wall. I will have to make an "adapter" to mate the two of them.

[AZ Pete]

quite a project!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[jmorris]

. The pin on the clevis is about 1" dia, and the ram's OD is 1.250", so I don't want to drill the ram and end up with that thin of a wall.

All you need is to machine two bushings about 1” OD and whatever ID you want and use two washers larger than 1” on either side of the clevis pin.

[wquiles]

All you need is to machine two bushings about 1” OD and whatever ID you want and use two washers larger than 1” on either side of the clevis pin.

Ahh, OK, I do see it now. So simple :-)

The OD of the ram is bigger than the ID of the clevis, but that is a quick fix on the milling machine, since I have to still mill the flats. Thanks again!

[wquiles]

Thanks to jmorris I now how to proceed on the piston/ram part, so I hope to work on that soon. For now, I will share the additional work I did yesterday (Sunday).

I did buy an extra bushing (I only needed 3x), but when I got looking at the base (1.3" thick) I realized I cut trim the 4th one, and install it on the bottom side:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0164.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0165.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0166.jpg



So I measured and noted that I needed about .4", so I cut it on the lathe:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0167.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0168.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0169.jpg



After cleaning the rough edges, it went in:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0170.jpg

[wquiles]

There is a little bit of room left, but the bushings have not yet been pressed in place until I decide how to protect the steel from rust (which I will do later on):
After cleaning the rough edges, it went in:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0171.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0172.jpg



I then worked on the set screws to keep the ram and the guide together. I went with that I had on hand (M8 set screws):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0173.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0174.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0175.jpg

[wquiles]

Once all is done, I will drill two matching dots on the ram so that it is not just pure screw tension holding it together:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0177.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0178.jpg


I worked on the ejection slot in the ram, in case I do want to try some swaging - cleaned the sharp edges with a small diamond file:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0179.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0180.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0181.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0186.jpg




I then drill an 3/8" hole on the ram for attaching to the clevis. Per feedback from jmorris, I now realize I should have made a larger hole and milled the flats at the same time, so I hope to work on it next:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0183.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0184.jpg

[wquiles]

I reassembled the press to check how well the set screws in the guide work:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0187.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0188.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0189.jpg



Still great alignment with the top plate:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0190.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0191.jpg



And this is where I stopped on Sunday:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0192.jpg

[alicevirgin]

Wow that is amazing. I've been contemplating getting a lathe. They just seem so useful. Thanks for the posts I'm eager to see the finished press.

On a side note, has anyone tried to cast a press, at least the body of it.

[wquiles]

Wow that is amazing. I've been contemplating getting a lathe. They just seem so useful.
Having a lathe is truly amazing. I started with a 7x12, then 8x12, and this PM12x36 now for almost 10years. I use it to make things, fix things, make tools, etc..



Thanks for the posts I'm eager to see the finished press.

Thank you. It has been fun and a great learning experience. I am noticing how heavy the assembled press is to move around, so I decided to check the weight. As is, with no linkages/handle, it is close to 27-1/2 pounds.

[BlackRat]

Having a lathe is truly amazing. I started with a 7x12, then 8x12, and this PM12x36 now for almost 10years. I use it to make things, fix things, make tools, etc..



Thank you. It has been fun and a great learning experience. I am noticing how heavy the assembled press is to move around, so I decided to check the weight. As is, with no linkages/handle, it is close to 27-1/2 pounds.


Just a quick warning..... Once you have a lathe things will change and for good or for worse, you will start thinking about getting a milling machine... then a surface grinder... after a while a TIG welder and the madness will never end! (don't ask me how I know)

But it's so worth it!!!!!

[jmorris]

Ahh, OK, I do see it now. So simple

I try to be like water and find the easiest way out. ;)

[Walter Laich]

after seeing all this my ability to hammer a nail without bending it 8 out of 10 times pales in comparison

[wquiles]

I try to be like water and find the easiest way out. ;)

Nothing wrong with doing it the easy way - thanks again :)

I am not done, but today I was able to do a little bit of work. My initial hole in the ram was 3/8", but I am going to go with a 1/2" bolt instead. I got the ram lined up with the original hole, and enlarged it to 1/2":
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0193.jpg



I then measured how much to take on both sides (inside of the clevis), to give me enough clearance for some delrin bushings (which I will make later), and came up with about 0.185" on each side, which I proceeded to mill away:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0194.jpg



Once I finished I used the same 1/2" mill to "index" the ram to do the other side. Not "exactly" perfectly indexed 180deg, but really, really close:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0195.jpg



I was shooting for slightly under 1" wide:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0196.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0197.jpg



De-bur those really sharp edges by hand:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0199.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0200.jpg

[wquiles]

Using the 1/2" mill to show alignment(I don't have the grade 8 bolt yet), here is how it looks now:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0202.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0203.jpg




Following jmorris' advice, I still have to make the fitted steel spacers for the 1/2" bolt to fit inside of the clevis' two holes, the delrin spacers, etc., so I hope to work on those soon.

Will

[BigEyeBob]

I must admit I am 100% spoiled with the DRO's. I got one on my knee mill (Enco 8x28, I think), and my lathe PM12x36. They certainly make life easier and I can concentrate more on the task at hand than on counting revolutions by hand and remembering everything in my head :)

I checked out the lazer pointers ,but whoa .$275 here in Australia ,but none available .There are some on Eeeekbay in the UK ,but again around the $275 mark plus post. The UK site has ones that project a fine red cross ,or circles ,which would also be helpful . Anyway its not a must have for me ,I might wait until I get some spare cash ,if there is such a thing .

[wquiles]

I checked out the lazer pointers ,but whoa .$275 here in Australia ,but none available .There are some on Eeeekbay in the UK ,but again around the $275 mark plus post. The UK site has ones that project a fine red cross ,or circles ,which would also be helpful . Anyway its not a must have for me ,I might wait until I get some spare cash ,if there is such a thing .

Wow. I bought mine 8-10 years ago, so I have no idea how much I paid for it, but they go now for $125 ($165 for the crosshair or the concentric circle):
https://lasercenteredgefinder.com/product/bp-original-lcef-12-shank-dot/

Even Amazon has it for $125 plus shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WVG430Y/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w

If you are interested send me a PM as I am more than willing to buy one and ship to you - it will certainly be way under $275!

Will

[jmorris]

still have to make the fitted steel spacers for the 1/2" bolt to fit inside of the clevis' two holes

You might be able to buy two more flanged oil-lite bushings with the right ID/OD and just press them into the clevis.

[BigEyeBob]

Wow. I bought mine 8-10 years ago, so I have no idea how much I paid for it, but they go now for $125 ($165 for the crosshair or the concentric circle):
https://lasercenteredgefinder.com/product/bp-original-lcef-12-shank-dot/

Even Amazon has it for $125 plus shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WVG430Y/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w

If you are interested send me a PM as I am more than willing to buy one and ship to you - it will certainly be way under $275!

Will

Amazon US no longer deals with Australian customers ,the zGovt here has changed to goods and services tax to include items under 1000Aud .Amazon decided it didnt want to collect the GST for the Australian Govt .There is an Australian Amazon ,but the product range is very sparse ,apparently Australians dont need the same products as our American brothers.I can order from the link you posted ,but the exchange rate between the USDollar and our cowpie dollar is pretty wide .Thanks for the offer I really appreciate it , zI will wait and see how the exchange rate goes over the next few months .

[wquiles]

Amazon US no longer deals with Australian customers ,the zGovt here has changed to goods and services tax to include items under 1000Aud .Amazon decided it didnt want to collect the GST for the Australian Govt .There is an Australian Amazon ,but the product range is very sparse ,apparently Australians dont need the same products as our American brothers.I can order from the link you posted ,but the exchange rate between the USDollar and our cowpie dollar is pretty wide .Thanks for the offer I really appreciate it , zI will wait and see how the exchange rate goes over the next few months .
Gotcha. Do let me know if I can assist.




You might be able to buy two more flanged oil-lite bushings with the right ID/OD and just press them into the clevis.
Good idea, but goes against my frugal mantra for this project, given that I have perfect cut-off's from the 4140 steel rods that I can machine into shape.

I started by getting the 1/2" grade 8 bolts:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0204.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0205.jpg



Then using the cut-offs to make the new bushings in the lathe:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0206.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0207.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0208.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0209.jpg

[wquiles]

The finished busing matched my original paper design close enough:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0210.jpg



With both of them done:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0211.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0212.jpg



Then use a left-over piece of delrin to make the spacers:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0213.jpg

[wquiles]

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0214.jpg


I am using a very sharp and very delicate PCD insert for the delrin:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0216.jpg



Didn't bother with a drill bit - used the same spotting drill which is 1/2":
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0217.jpg



They are a little bit on the "thin" side, but it does allow for a little movement side-to-side:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0220.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0221.jpg

[wquiles]

Here the ram has the RCBS ram prime shell holder (and I got a Lee universal de-priming die on the top):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0222.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0223.jpg



Here you can see the original design goal of 6" of travel fairly well:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0224.jpg



However, and here is my first design "problem": Once I account for the shell holding adapter, and the die space bellow the top plate, I only really have about 5.150" of actual, useful travel:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0224.jpg



BUT, the ram's travel is still 6", which means I have to deal with how to stop the ram (some sort of mechanical stop) to keep the ram travel to 5" or so. The "solution" would have been to make the two support/guide rods about an inch longer - pretty easy in fact now that I realize this, but it is something I missed in my original design. I have to see if I still have enough scrap steel to make two new support/guide rods from scratch. Now you know why I told myself this was more of a prototype and why I didn't want to buy new steel for this project :)



So here is how the press looks like right now (this is the view of the back of the press):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0226.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0227.jpg



Ok, so I still have a "lot" to work on:
- Ram mechanical stop: A simple 1" steel block between the bottom of the clevis and the top of the cylinder will accomplish this, so I am not too worried at the moment. I am deciding to have a stop on the way down, so that the top of the ram's movement will be always top-dead-center, which is of course critical for reloading (all of my presses have a mechanical stop in the linkages to ensure a consistent top-dead-center).

- Buy the remaining parts for the air-over-oil hydraulic system.

- Assemble and test the air-over-oil system.

- Figure out a "solid" method of attaching the ram to the cylinder, and account for potential flex. The cylinder is a good 20 pounds or so, which along with the nearly 30 pounds from the press is a lot of weight to simply "hang" from any table. I am considering making a portable stand to which everything would be bolted/welded. I have "lots" of steel to use, but of course this is a project on its own which will take lots of time.

- Surface treatment for all steel parts. Right now planning on doing cold bluing, which I have used many times in previous projects. I am probably going to do that one really soon while I work on the other stuff above to prevent rust while the press waits for next steps.



Will

[jmorris]

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0212.jpg

I don’t like to run bolts in double shear like this, I would get one with a longer shank so the smooth (also stronger and larger diameter of the shank) is in both bushings. If you don’t like the extra threads sticking out, cut them off. You can also get aircraft fasteners that are made “right” but they are not as cheap.

[gunwonk]

I checked out the lazer pointers ,but whoa .$275 here in Australia ,but none available .There are some on Eeeekbay in the UK ,but again around the $275 mark plus post. The UK site has ones that project a fine red cross ,or circles ,which would also be helpful . Anyway its not a must have for me ,I might wait until I get some spare cash ,if there is such a thing .


Wow. I bought mine 8-10 years ago, so I have no idea how much I paid for it, but they go now for $125 ($165 for the crosshair or the concentric circle):
https://lasercenteredgefinder.com/product/bp-original-lcef-12-shank-dot/

Even Amazon has it for $125 plus shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WVG430Y/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w

If you are interested send me a PM as I am more than willing to buy one and ship to you - it will certainly be way under $275!

Will


Amazon US no longer deals with Australian customers ,the zGovt here has changed to goods and services tax to include items under 1000Aud .Amazon decided it didnt want to collect the GST for the Australian Govt .There is an Australian Amazon ,but the product range is very sparse ,apparently Australians dont need the same products as our American brothers.I can order from the link you posted ,but the exchange rate between the USDollar and our cowpie dollar is pretty wide .Thanks for the offer I really appreciate it , I will wait and see how the exchange rate goes over the next few months .

Well (ahem), how about this from Amazon.au?

https://www.amazon.com.au/Ultra-Reach-Laser-Beam-Pointer/dp/B07D554SG1/
Yes, it's basically a cat toy. :roll:

I'd chuck it up, try to figure out a way to hold down the switch button (hose clamp?), and spin it with the laser on. (FWIW, it doesn't have to spin very fast.)

Disclaimer: I have near zero machining cred -- perhaps I have just demonstrated this beyond any doubt -- and I'm assuming (*ss U etc.) that the way the laser centering device works is to put its laser dot right down the axis of the chuck, with about $100 of the price being to get everything straight.

So get something cheaper, and spin it. Usual precautions, plus it's a laser, etc. :)

[wquiles]

[img]I don’t like to run bolts in double shear like this, I would get one with a longer shank so the smooth (also stronger and larger diameter of the shank) is in both bushings. If you don’t like the extra threads sticking out, cut them off. You can also get aircraft fasteners that are made “right” but they are not as cheap.
Thank you much. I will buy a new bolt today at Lowes :)


I extended the cylinder the full 6" and checked how much space I need for things. Assuming a couple of inches on the bottom for the attachment point, I would need about 29" to the top of the bench:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0229.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0230.jpg


I checked on my reloading bench, and I have just enough space, so I removed the Lee turret press and temporarily clamped it in place:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0233.jpg


I installed the right shell holder for 308, and this is how things look like with a 308 case in place:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0234.jpg



I hope to start cutting some steel for welding a frame to tie the press to the cylinder.

Will

[Catshooter]

I've never heard of air-over-hydraulic. Anyone have a link I could check out?


Thanks.


Cat

[wquiles]

I've never heard of air-over-hydraulic. Anyone have a link I could check out?


Thanks.


Cat

These are the links I posted earlier in this thread:

1) Main discussion on using air power for swaging, which also gets into the advantages of air-over-air: start reading on "Pneumatic Pressure" in bold:
http://www.swage.com/ebooks/tb-4.htm


2) And here is a commercial air-over-oil tank:
http://www.fabco-air.com/pdf/Sec_9.pdf


Will

[ulav8r]

Something that may not have shown up in the air over oil links(I only looked at the fabcolink), the air over oil can provide added power over an air only system. If the air cylinder is larger than the oil cylinder, it will increase the pressure in the oil system. For example, it the air cylinder piston area is twice as large as the area of the oil cylinder piston, the oil pressure will be twice the air pressure applied. Also, the system can provide greater power as the active cylinder size is increased. An example of this: if the air cylinder piston has an area of 36 square inches, the oil piston has an area of six square inches, and the actuating cylinder has an area of 36 square inches, the system force at 100 psi of air pressure is-> 100psi * 36 in sq/6 in sq *36 in sq. =21,600 pounds of force on the actuating cylinder.

In that example the 100 pounds per squar inch of air pressure results in 600 psi in the oil system that is applied to the actuating cylinder. Because the actuating cylinder is larger that the oil cylinder, the oil cylinder will have six time the length of travel compared to the actuating cylinder.

[jmorris]

As the OP is in DFW Imight suggest he call/go to a place in Richardson called CDC Products. No idea if they still have them but I had to get one just because. Anyhow they had a number of 6” diameter pneumatic rams for cheap. I made one into a can crusher but it would be pretty easy to turn it into what the OP is looking for.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225486&d=1534208188



I also have some air over hydraulic actuators that I used for hydraulic clamping of parts for machining. They can produce thousands of PSI, hydraulically, from 90 PSI pneumaticly. Why I said earlier that the cylinder the OP is using could destroy most reloading presses.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225487&d=1534208216

[Catshooter]

Thanks gentlemen.


Cat

[BigEyeBob]

Well (ahem), how about this from Amazon.au?

https://www.amazon.com.au/Ultra-Reach-Laser-Beam-Pointer/dp/B07D554SG1/
Yes, it's basically a cat toy. :roll:

I'd chuck it up, try to figure out a way to hold down the switch button (hose clamp?), and spin it with the laser on. (FWIW, it doesn't have to spin very fast.)

Disclaimer: I have near zero machining cred -- perhaps I have just demonstrated this beyond any doubt -- and I'm assuming (*ss U etc.) that the way the laser centering device works is to put its laser dot right down the axis of the chuck, with about $100 of the price being to get everything straight.

So get something cheaper, and spin it. Usual precautions, plus it's a laser, etc. :)

I think the dot would be too large ,for accurate work . But for 4 buckaroos it might be worth a try . Thanks for the link.

[wquiles]

As the OP is in DFW Imight suggest he call/go to a place in Richardson called CDC Products. No idea if they still have them but I had to get one just because. Anyhow they had a number of 6” diameter pneumatic rams for cheap. I made one into a can crusher but it would be pretty easy to turn it into what the OP is looking for.


I also have some air over hydraulic actuators that I used for hydraulic clamping of parts for machining. They can produce thousands of PSI, hydraulically, from 90 PSI pneumaticly. Why I said earlier that the cylinder the OP is using could destroy most reloading presses.


I need to get over there soon. I have not been to CDC in about 1-2 years!

By the way, tried to sent you a reply PM but your inbox is full :)

Thanks,
Will

[jmorris]

I made some room.

Not sure how far from the you are, I only go by if I am already going to the area for some other reason. You could call and ask if your interested in one of the big rams. I can’t imagine it would be a great seller.

CDC
tel:+19729189886

[fguffey]

Wquiles, there is another reloader built hydraulic press in the DFW area; if you have an interest in seeing it let me know. I thought I had an interest in building one so the owner offered to but a pile of stuff together; after checking the pistons and toggles I found all of the equipment was high pressure air for aircraft. The pistons have a diameter of 1". I got over the urge/

F. Guffey

[wquiles]

Wquiles, there is another reloader built hydraulic press in the DFW area; if you have an interest in seeing it let me know. I thought I had an interest in building one so the owner offered to but a pile of stuff together; after checking the pistons and toggles I found all of the equipment was high pressure air for aircraft. The pistons have a diameter of 1". I got over the urge/

F. Guffey

Yup, absolutely. It would be good to check how it was build, how it operates, speed, etc.

Please send me a PM with details/information.

Thanks,
Will

[wquiles]

For the cylinder, I am making a very simple steel frame. I could have welded the frame to the bottom of the press, but I decided to bolt it in place, so that I have other options in the future (like for example converting it to a manual press). As everything so far, I am using left-over steel from prior projects. For the bottom of the cylinder, I am using a 1" square piece with 2x holes, 1" apart (to have some adjustability):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0236.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0237.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0238.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0239.jpg


Need to make square the end that will be welded:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0241.jpg


I am using a "roughing" mill, which leaves a neat pattern:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0243.jpg

[wquiles]

Mock-up before welding:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0250.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0251.jpg



These are the two pieces which will be welded to the cylinder's frame, and bolted to the press' base:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0252.jpg



Of course, welding:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0253.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0257.jpg



Now to align with the base:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0259.jpg



I tried to align as best as I could, but wasn't "confident" enough. As it turns out, I was able to use my machinist's laser :)
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0260.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0261.jpg

[wquiles]

This was what I was able to do without the laser - close, but not great:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0262.jpg



But with the laser, much better:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0263.jpg



Then weld:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0265.jpg



Then trim the brackets to allow room for the guide rods' bottom bolts:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0269.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0270.jpg


All welded and aligned:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0271.jpg

[wquiles]

Checking that everything still lines up, just in case ....
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0273.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0274.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0275.jpg



Paint the frame flat black (I closed the top of the two frame pieces, and blended the welding for a smooth appearance):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0276.jpg



Then prepare the steel pieces for a thin coat of Norrell's Moly Resin (https://molyresin.com/) which I have been using for years now (comparable to Cerakote, but easier to use):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0277.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0278.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0279.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0280.jpg



As always, the coating is so thin once baked, that it does not change the assembly of the parts:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0281.jpg



I still have to make another set of steel bushings in the lathe (should have made 2x sets earlier!), and then work on all of the air-oil assembly & testing. My guess is one or two more weekends :)

Will

[AntiqueSledMan]

Hello wquiles,

Very interesting project, nice job. But I feel I must tell you to be sure & count your fingers both before & after using that air over hydraulic cylinder powered ram. With a handle, one can stop the motion of the press when you feel the pinch but I doubt you will be able to reverse the ram fast enough with the air over hydraulic cylinder. I also think one might see more damaged cases also. Not trying to be a smart ***, but please be careful.

AntiqueSledMan

[wquiles]

Hello wquiles,

Very interesting project, nice job. But I feel I must tell you to be sure & count your fingers both before & after using that air over hydraulic cylinder powered ram. With a handle, one can stop the motion of the press when you feel the pinch but I doubt you will be able to reverse the ram fast enough with the air over hydraulic cylinder. I also think one might see more damaged cases also. Not trying to be a smart ***, but please be careful.

AntiqueSledMan

Understood - thank you for the warning ;)

[wquiles]

I could not finish everything this weekend, but made some progress. Made the two additional delrin spacers for the top clevis on the lathe:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0282.jpg



Then made the 1.5" tall delrin mechanical stop for the cylinder (recall that my support/guide rods should have been 9" instead of 7.5" long):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0283.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0285.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0286.jpg



Then made the two additional steel spacers for the 1/2" bolts on the top clevis. Target OD is 1.000":
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0287.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0288.jpg



With the delrin piece in place, this is the lowest the ram can go now:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0292.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0289.jpg



Everything is now bolted tight, and I did play a little with air only to watch/verify travel in both directions with no binding:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0293.jpg



Left to do is the air-oil tank and hoses, and of course the actuating level. Hopefully this coming weekend :-)

Will

[Taterhead]

This continues to be a great read. The old HP12C calculator got my attention. I still have and use one of those on occasion (I'm in corporate finance), although MS Excel has supplanted it for the most part. They've been making them continuously since 1981. Mine's from the early 1990s. HP has made a bunch of those for a long time, but not many people know how to operate the "reverse Polish notation." "Where's the '=' sign?"

[alamogunr]

This continues to be a great read. The old HP12C calculator got my attention. I still have and use one of those on occasion (I'm in corporate finance), although MS Excel has supplanted it for the most part. They've been making them continuously since 1981. Mine's from the early 1990s. HP has made a bunch of those for a long time, but not many people know how to operate the "reverse Polish notation." "Where's the '=' sign?"

I've got 3 HP RPN calculators incl. the HP12C that I also got in the early 1990's. I've got a HP42S that mostly won't turn on. If I can get it turned on, it will do most of the functions. I wish I could find someone to repair it. The third one is a HP32S(I think, its in the shop and I'm not sure of its designation) that I've had for quite a long time too.

I've got a couple of algebraic calculators laying around but it takes too much concentration to remember how they work.

Sorry for continuing the Off Topic. This is an interesting thread but far above my machining skills which are non-existent.

[wquiles]

Oh man, I am not alone!

I am an Electrical Engineer, and in the late 80's, in college, somebody showed me an HP-41C, and proved to me that once mastered, math problems were much easier, faster, and with less chance of errors - IF you can think and breath RPN (reverse polish notation). After borrowing it a couple of times, I was 100% sold, and bought a HP41-CV.

That 41-CV lasted me all through my BSEE degree and then my MSEE. But when I started to work, I realized that the "bulk" of the HP41-CV was simply too much for office use. But I was not able to adapt to a regular calculator (it takes way too much concentration to use a regular calculator, and it is slower!!!), so after briefly trying an HP-32S, I sold it and bought a "simpler" HP12C. After I while I liked the HP12C so much, that I bought a second one, so that I can keep one at home and one at work.

Then my dog literally ate one of them (although it remarkably still worked!), so I bought a 3rd HP12C, which was a newer design (more on that in a sec). I then started to do work in the garage/shop, so I decided to use the "dog toy" in the garage. That was more than 10 years ago - still working!

I am not 100% sure, but I think these two are mid/late 90's:
http://m3coupe.com/RPN/IMAG0004.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/RPN/IMAG0005.jpg


And since both of those still work, the 3rd and newer one I bought sits in a drawer un-used for the most part (bottom):
http://m3coupe.com/RPN/IMAG0006.jpg


You can tell the design changed on the "newer one" since it now uses a single flat battery (bottom):
http://m3coupe.com/RPN/IMAG0007.jpg



Now. That older HP-41CV I sold, but my wife still has hers. She actually got the newest at the time - HP-41CX, and bought the math module. Here is my wife's:
http://m3coupe.com/RPN/IMAG0001.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/RPN/IMAG0002.jpg


So after more than 30+ years, my brain is "still" wired for RPN, and I still struggle with a regular calculator (so of course on my phones I "always" have an RPN calculator app!).

Will

[engineer401]

This continues to be a great read. The old HP12C calculator got my attention. I still have and use one of those on occasion (I'm in corporate finance), although MS Excel has supplanted it for the most part. They've been making them continuously since 1981. Mine's from the early 1990s. HP has made a bunch of those for a long time, but not many people know how to operate the "reverse Polish notation." "Where's the '=' sign?"

I have an 11C from 1984. I used it through college, grad school and beyond. The reverse notation is the only way for me to go. It’s quick and easy.

[jmorris]

I stil have an original TI datamath with box charger and consumer reports magazine....

My HP48 does have a bit more calculating power though.

[sigep1764]

Can we see a video of the press in action???

[wquiles]

Can we see a video of the press in action???

Last weekend I verified the up/down travel using only air (manually, one direction, then the other), so I know nothing binds, and everything moves smoothly as designed. However, I can't post a video of the press on operation since the project is not yet complete.

Specifically, although I have all of the needed pieces, I have not implemented & connected the air-oil pieces yet. My goal is to have initial test this coming weekend.

Will

[jmorris]

A video would be cool.

Then you can case feed it and automate it using a pneumatic solenoid and switches.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0MR2eHQSAE

[mattw]

Fantastic looking press and ohhh the old HP's. I still have mine from around 1982. Had 4 packs in it. I also had a 15C and 32E. I loved them all.

[wquiles]

Well, the press is done now, and it works. My son helped me getting the tank filled and bolted under the table:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0297.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0298.jpg


I needed about .3 gallons of fluid for the cylinder, but I used about 2/3 to be on the safe side (tank is a 1 gallon):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0299.jpg


For air pressure, I got line pressure on the right side of this photo (about 100psi or so), and a second regulated which of course gives slower speed of operation (left side of the photo):
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0300.jpg


I used to size bullets in my rock chucker, but never again. Almost too easy on my new press. But enough photos. Everyone wants to see if in motion, so here we go :-)


This was when I had everything ready except for the tank, so running on only air. If I played with the air pressure, I can "almost" get it to move smoothly, but it was still a little jerky, worst if I tried to start/stop during the approx. 5" of travel:

https://youtu.be/7F--Tq-TnR0


I then got the oil tank running, and boy is the ram movement "smooooottthhhh". Quite amazing. Now, since air is compressible, when you let to the lever (spring loaded), the ram keeps moving up while the system equalizes. What I learned is that if I do a quick "tab" on the lever on the opposite direction, I can instantly stop the ram :-)


I got my machinist dial (0.0005" graduations) as I was curious how consistent was the top of the travel for the cylinder. I am getting less than 1/2 of a 0.0005" graduation. Not bad at all :-)

https://youtu.be/4TwqFHUo8lc


I have an adjustable one-way valve, and I have the up stroke moving a little slower than moving down. Here it is at 60 PSI:

https://youtu.be/9tD3LxKHCBc


And here it is at 100 PSI:

https://youtu.be/9DjYMSYW7Ww



I am still playing with both the one-way flow fluid valve, and the air regulator to find a nice operating range. Since I have a couple more batches of boolits that need sizing, so I will do some more tomorrow :-)

Will

[wquiles]

Here is another video of my second resizing session, so that you can see the press in operation:

https://youtu.be/22e22iOPlkY

[bedbugbilly]

Wow! That is the ULTIMATE press!

[wquiles]

After resizing, I decided to take the 308 reloading dies out of the Lee turret press, and set them up for my new press. As I was testing it, I didn't have one of the dies setup right, which easily and silently destroyed this one even at 60 PSI:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0301.jpg


I also realized that I had the ram setup too high to allow for most dies to work. Since the cylinder location can be moved down an inch, I re-adjusted everything. Here is the new setting, while seating an 180gr Ranch Dog hunting boolit - showing the ram at the lowest position:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0302.jpg



And then showing at the highest position. Including the shel holder I got a little over 4.5" of actual, useful travel:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0303.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0304.jpg


Full 308 cal dies ready for service on the new press. I have been reloading for 308, 45-70, and 44mag, so I so got two more die sets to go!
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0305.jpg



Question, now that I am no longer keeping the dies in a turret: What do most of you use to store/keel dies for your single-presses?


Will

[jmorris]

Here is another video of my second resizing session, so that you can see the press in operation:

https://youtu.be/22e22iOPlkY

Looking good. When you get tired of hand feeding, this might give you some ideas.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eANEMBS_V_0

[mattw]

Wow, amazing job! Is it tough enough to swage since there is not a compound lever?

[EDG]

Your vertical stop location will vary some from case to case unless you double cycle the ram. Not all cases are expanded the same so they will not resize exactly the same unless you double or even triple cycle the ram slowly.

[wquiles]

Looking good. When you get tired of hand feeding, this might give you some ideas.

Wow. Nice video of the auto bullet sizer. There is always room for improvement, right?



Wow, amazing job! Is it tough enough to swage since there is not a compound lever?
Don't know as I have not tried swaging yet.



Your vertical stop location will vary some from case to case unless you double cycle the ram. Not all cases are expanded the same so they will not resize exactly the same unless you double or even triple cycle the ram slowly.
For my 308 bolt action I have been only neck sizing, but I will put the dial indicator when doing full case resizing to see if I can measure the variation - thanks :)

[wquiles]

I have been loading some new rounds with my "MEGA press" (hey, I "had" to give it a cool name, right?) lately. These are 122gr hard cast NOE FP boolits, with 11, 13, and 15gr Trailboss to try out at the range. I hope these would be mild enough for my daughter to graduate from the 10/22 into a more proper centerfire rifle :-) :
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0306.jpg

http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/customreloadingpress/IMAG0307.jpg


Will

[Taterhead]

What an epic project! Thank you for bringing us along. I really enjoyed lurking.

[wquiles]

What an epic project! Thank you for bringing us along. I really enjoyed lurking.

Thank you for your kind words. It was definitely a great learning experience :)

[wquiles]

I made the press with the ability to try some swagging in the future, so I got to try it this weekend.

My 300BLK feeds the large meplat Ranch Dog 180 hunting bullet perfectly, but the ring after the nose is of bullet diameter and it prevents the bolt from closing, so I decided to make a nose sizing die:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/casting/NOE_TL310-180-RF/IMAG0050.jpg
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/casting/NOE_TL310-180-RF/IMAG0052.jpg


Before:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/casting/NOE_TL310-180-RF/IMAG0055.jpg


After:
http://m3coupe.com/Firearms/casting/NOE_TL310-180-RF/IMAG0056.jpg


Short video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkY7cDuG-k4&feature=youtu.be

[Demeter’s_Workshop]

Very well made press! been wanting to make up a pneumatic single stage for sizing for a while. how are those bushings doing since you completed the build?

[wquiles]

You can see after 10 or so months of use the thin spray coat of Moli Resin has been worn out a little (less than 0.001" coating), otherwise pretty good, still "solid" and little/no play.

[Demeter’s_Workshop]

Thats what I was curious about, I looked into linear bearings but non chinese are more for a pair than just buying a single stage. I'll have to try out those bushings.

[tankgunner59]

Nice press, and from one welder to another really nice looking beads.

[wquiles]

I am an amateur welder, but thank you for your kind words :)

[wquiles]

I got a PM asking me if it would be possible to consolidate all of the steps/pictures into a single document, so here you go - hope this is helpful.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1tbcM7scA6UUAZ_obTfNRUxOtgFf32p5FNc7RSAfqZxo/edit?usp=sharing

Will