Which sandblasting tool to get?

[Steven66]

I need to sandblast a spray-on coating off of the hard-to-reach places in a barrelled action (the rest of it is in the white) before rust blueing it. What is a good sandblasting tool to get? I don't plan on trying to clean up anything larger than an old frying pan at most. I plan on using #320 grit sand/media.

[country gent]

A small bench top cabinet type would do the job nicely, and contain the media for future use. The smaller cabinet type use much less media also. The air supply you have available may also determine the blaster.

Moisture humidity greatly affects the blasters efficiency, damp sand dosnt flow near as good. Air supply also will affect the results.

[TCLouis]

If you are talking about a onsey use cabinet, one can be surprised what can be done with a cardboard box, piece of glass

AND

Wait for it

Duct tape

And a few odds and ends to finish it off, collect thee sand and protect body parts

A buddy neds one every few years and has just used this method with a new box each time.

[waksupi]

I would suggest taking it somewhere and getting it done. It takes a considerable air compressor to run one. I ruined one that way by not having enough capacity.

[john.k]

The grit wont get into confined spaces and pockets,due to a blastback effect and buildup....I used to do estimating for an industrial blaster,and I was always very wary of plastic coatings.........some take inordinate amounts of time to remove with industrial strength equiptment,not a puny 6 to 10 cfm.gun with suction feed....I would try a stripper to soften the plastic,then blast.

[kywoodwrkr]

I would suggest taking it somewhere and getting it done. It takes a considerable air compressor to run one. I ruined one that way by not having enough capacity.

I'd second this.
Every unit I've seen also has lost blasting material all over the place.
A shop would be able to remove old finish with out compromising metal finish.
Maybe a automotive restoration shop, they are used to 'delicate' ie thin steel panels etc.

[John Taylor]

Sand is a bit aggressive, I use glass bead. If this is a one off thing just get a gun and do the job outside.

[KCSO]

You compressor should throw out 80-100 psi at 14 feet per minute or so. That is a pretty big compressor, my 60 gallon 5 hp just makes the grade. I use glass beads and if it is a chep cabinet you will need to seal it good before use. Harbor freight unit will work with some additions and shouldn't cost more than $140.

[samari46]

In humid locations you may need what I believe are moisture traps or filters to separate the moisture out from the air stream before it gets to the pickup for whatever blasting media you are using. I believe that Lowe's and maybe Home Depot sell them and they are not at all expensive. I have a small 30 gallon tank Sears air compressor and when I shut it down and open the bleed off at the underside of the tank, you would not believe the amount of condensation that comes out. I leave it open until its next use to hopefully dry out and lessen the amount of trapped condensation. I once worked in a fuel oil storage tank farm and we had two large air compressors that supplied the air for most of the controls. They basically ran 24/7 and once a watch would open the bleed off on each one to get rid of condensation. Never saw any condensation as once the tanks warmed up and the various pump rooms were always very warm even in winter so the ambient air temp was also high. Think what kills the smaller home and industrial compressors is the moisture trapped in the tank and if not bled out with the air still in the tank would lead to the tank rusting out. My Sears ac is over 15 years old with steel tank. Always drain it out after use. We also had an old diesel ac at our dock that was old when we got it. Used to blow down 90' of 8" hose after a fuel oil delivery. Tapped off a steam line to put a heating coil underneath it. Was mounted on a steel frame 3' high and the steam helped keep the engine oil warm as well as to prevent the diesel oil from gelling in winter. Frank

[DCM]

What type of spay on coating?
Acetone attacks many a coating as does brake fluid.
Disclaimer: Please use common sense with the above, they are both flammable, irritants best used outdoors with eye and skin protection. ...
Warning labels ...

[oldracer]

I bought a "bench top" model from our friends at Harbor Freight and Tools when I was racing as I used it several times a year, usually with walnut shells. Now they have several small hand held models that should do what you need. Once you do the blasting you'll be surprised how many friends you have that need something cleaned off! While the HF items are very low priced, I never had one fail and in the year after I sold my race car I sold the blast cabinet and actually made some $$$$$.
John

[john.k]

OR has a good point about people wanting free beadblasting..........the reason being that pros charge $150=$250 an hour for it.A guy I used to know bought a derelict wet bead plant,fixed it up,and was snowed under with work.(wet is what some call "vapor honing").........the beauty of it being he put the wife and kids to work and raked in the cash....But he already had a large /very quiet 10hp/ 3phase compressor for his workshop.Say 30=40 cfm at 150 psi.

[JeepHammer]

MEK (Generic) will remove most any 'Plastic' (polymer) type coating.

An automotive product called 'Zip Strip' (brand name) will take almost everything off, including skin & your shoe soles.
Be careful with this one...

If it's a urethane coating, a thinner called Xylene (generic, Wally world, any paint store) will soften it.
Soften, scrape, soften, scrape... A BRASS wire wheel (low speed, drill not die grinder) will help roll the urethane off.

For the guys with small compressors,
As much storage tank (or tanks) as you can muster. A small compressor can store a bunch of volume over time, use it when everything is 'Full'.
Air isn't hydraulic, you can gang several tanks together on a common manifold or line and draw off all evenly at the same time.

[beezapilot]

I built my own cabinets, plywood boxes with sheet metal in the internal blast areas. Visited a truck / camper place and got old truck rear windows for glass (tempered you know), had a vertical "sock" as an exhaust / filter for media- give it a good shake when the air is off and the media drops down into the hopper.

[merlin101]

For the guys with moisture problems you can make an air dryer by coiling about 10' or so of air hose in a 5 gallon bucket filled with cold water and run the end of the hose into a moisture trap/drain. It works great and is cheap, you won't believe how warm even hot the water gets.

[Steven66]

What type of spay on coating?
Acetone attacks many a coating as does brake fluid.
Disclaimer: Please use common sense with the above, they are both flammable, irritants best used outdoors with eye and skin protection. ...
Warning labels ...

It's called Moly Resin Kote. It's a heat-cured phenolic finish.

I've got nearly all of it off. Lots of quality time with 320 grit sandpaper glued onto popsicle sticks. :wink:

[Steven66]

Here's the link to the manufacturer: https://molyresin.com/

Mr. Norrell says that the stuff is basically impervious to solvents once cured. I've used it on some other projects and it is extremely durable. Very good for "black"-style rifles and such, but I've gone pretty nostalgic over walnut and blued steel.

I may not be able to get it off of all the internal surfaces without going to a shop that does sandblasting. I'm going to check with my neighbor who has a big compressor and try some walnut hull media that I have on hand.

If I can't get it off places like the inside of the bolt shroud, it's probably no big deal.