Polyurethane as a stock finish ?

[brstevns]

For years I have used Tru-oil for a stock finish but with the new polyurethane, wipe ons now being made why not use one ?

[Marlin356]

I have used the Minwax wipe on and spray. Both work great. Here's a wipe on poly result223234

[Uncle Grinch]

I’ve used the satin spray as a top coat. Satin adds a touch of class in my opinion.

[redhawk0]

I've always mixed my own finish. Tung Oil and Polyurethane. 2:1. (modified from my original notes below) I use only gloss finish as it has more protective solids in it than matte or satin finish. If I want a satin, I rub it down when completely dry with scotchbright pads. (lightly) I do no less than 10 thin coats and always hand rubbed on.

redhawk

My original notes on the subject.


Refinishing Instructions for Firearm Stocks
These instructions were checked over by Jim Kull who is a professional woodworker and
refinisher. He was a guest on the ShootersTalk board in Mid-1999. He was instrumental in
teaching us some of the finer points of wood refinishing and his methods have been adapted to
suit stock refinishing…..Here we go.
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING....Remove barreled action and any
other accessories from the wooden stock. Now you can begin the stripping process. Start by
stripping off the old finish with the heaviest can of stripper you can find. The heavier the can, the
more stripping chemical that is present. Apply and rub the stripper with a Burgundy 3M pad
(ScotchBrite) or Green 3M pad (ScotchBrite). DON’T FORGET TO WEAR RUBBER
GLOVES, SAFETY GLASSES, and RESPIRATOR. Use a nylon or brass brush to get into the
checkering. After you feel you have all the old finish off, wipe it down (hose it down) with
mineral spirits. Let it air dry. (this method requires no sanding and thus removes NO wood). After
it is thoroughly dry, check for any left over finish and residues. The next step is to apply your
favorite OIL stain with a new white 3M pad (ScotchBrite). Always apply the stain with the
direction of the grain of the wood. Let it stand 10-15 minutes and wipe off excess with a clean rag
(Used cotton T-shirts work real well).
DO NOT APPLY STAIN DIRECTLY TO CHECKERING. Put stain on a rag and let partially
dry before applying to checkering. The checkering will have end grain wood exposed and will
soak up more stain then the cross grain wood parts. Dark patches could appear if stain is applied
directly to the checkering. Apply multiple coats to the stock until desired depth of color is
achieved. Let the stock air dry for minimum of 24 hours. Next is the finish....get a can of your
favorite Gloss Polyurethane/Varnish finish. Always use GLOSS. It contains more protective
solids. Thin it 2/3 finish with 1/3 mineral spirits, as thin as 50/50 will work fine. Next apply it
with your fingers not a rag. You don't want any fuzz particles or dust to get on the stock at this
point. Apply 2 LIGHT coats of finish with 2-6 hours between coats(depending on temp and
humidity). Then apply the third LIGHT coat and let dry overnight. (DO NOT APPLY FINISH
TOO HEAVILY...Don't try to rush the finish process) Next rub stock with a new white 3M pad
(ScotchBrite) to keep everything smooth. Tack rag off residue and dust. Then apply another 2
coats 2-6 hours between and then a third to dry overnight then buff with a white pad
again....repeat this process until 12-15 coats have been applies. The last coat can be left alone if
you like the gloss finish or buff it lightly with a NEW white 3M pad (ScotchBrite) for a satin
finish....This will take several days to complete but the results are worth it. After the final coat has
dried for 3-5 days apply a good paste wax. Car wax works fine. Buff vigorously with a cotton rag
(used T-shirt again) for a nice sheen (this works for both the gloss and satin finish) The wax adds
and extra layer of protection.
ScotchBrite to Steel wool conversions….Burgundy = #0… Green = #00… Grey = #000 and
White = #0000....
Redhawk

[fecmech]

I've use the Chempak ProCustom which is a tung oil/poly mix. I've done 5 stocks with it and it's great to work with. My first stock was Truoil but I like the Procustom better.

[nekshot]

That stock finish makes me feel good! I am just a low educated farm boy bu it seems I figured out a professional stock finish on my own! Took me 50 years but we got there. I love spraying a coat of Dupli-Color Matte Wheel Clearcoat on stock. Also if you strip metal and buff as in preparing for bluing but spray with this stuff it absolutely comes out amazing. Takes on a hazy neat look that makes you want to do more.

[brstevns]

That stock finish makes me feel good! I am just a low educated farm boy bu it seems I figured out a professional stock finish on my own! Took me 50 years but we got there. I love spraying a coat of Dupli-Color Matte Wheel Clearcoat on stock. Also if you strip metal and buff as in preparing for bluing but spray with this stuff it absolutely comes out amazing. Takes on a hazy neat look that makes you want to do more.

How that is a new one.