Possible to enlarge a bullet? Opposite of resizing?

[Kev18]

I was wondering if there is any way to make a bullet fatter? I know resizing is possible , .310 to .308 for example. But I was wondering because I have an old Winchester 1886 in 40-82. My bore is around .409. All the bullets available in .40 cal are usually .406 making them useless for me. I cast Lead in a "modified" mold, which seems to work good for now. I know there are alot of solutions like getting a custom mold made, or buying .41 cal bullets. But I was just wondering if there was a simple process to add diameter to a bullet?
For example, id like to walk in a store, buy some standard .406 bullets, go home, run them through a fattening process, reload, go shoot.

[ThomR]

You could powder coat them a couple times.

[UKShootist]

I've been working on this idea myself for a Marlin 45//70 microgroove barrel that was slugged at .460. Here's how far I got. I managed to trace a supplier of thick walled steel tube that had an internal diameter ever so slightly larger than I wanted. I then acquired a steel rod of pretty close fit. (Sorry about the generalisation of sizes). Next on the list was a relatively inexpensive arbor press.

I sawed the tube and rod to get lengths of about 3 inches. Then it was a case of drop the factory hard cast bullet into the tube, then the rod, into the arbor press, squeeze and the result was one fatter bullet. This was then put through a Lee sizing die that I had opened out with emery cloth on a screwdriver until it was up to .460 (probably could have done with being .461 or even .462 but those dies are hard) The final part, that I never got around to, was to cut the rod to the size that would coincide with the tube when the arbor press had squashed the bullet enough so that it would be consistent, the tube preventing the arbor press from doing any further.

The only problem was that the ogive was squashed out of shape. I was arranging for a friend to make one end of the steel rod concave to suit the shape of the bullet when I sold the rifle so it went no further, but the process definitely worked. It would be a bit of a faf to do because you would need to lube with bullet with liquid alox before putting it through the sizing die, and probably before putting it into the tube.

It sounds a bit of a bodge but it seemed to be a practical idea that I felt would have worked well. You've just got to find the right sized tube, or get a machinist on the job.

[17nut]

Paperpatching!

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I was wondering if there is any way to make a bullet fatter? I know resizing is possible , .310 to .308 for example. But I was wondering because I have an old Winchester 1886 in 40-82. My bore is around .409.

Exactly like mine, but I found that .406 bullets from my original Winchester mould worked well with an alloy close in composition to Lyman No.2, 5% antimony, 5% tin and 90% lead. So I suppose they upset under gas pressure. But if it worries you, and you haven't got your mould yet, you could probably find one in .410, to use sized or even unsized. A lot of people have shot .406 bullets in .403-groove Marlin barrels.

A die and punches will probably bump up the bullets at either end, and leave the middle as-is, but that would probably be fine when only .003 of expansion is wanted... (I nearly said "needed.") You could probably find a way to use a standard lubrisizer nose punch for one end. I believe my idea for a hollow-pointing die (which I haven't tried) would work, with a longer and close to cylindrical pin from either point or base. You could squeeze it in a large vice. One improvement I would make would be to put shoulders on the pins, or cut them flush with the ends, so that they can only close to the same dimensions every time.

222507

[Rcmaveric]

Do search on bumping. Basicly get lube die of the correct diameter with the proper nose punch. Then you basic swage or aka bump up the bullet a couple thousands. Use a sturdy lubrisizer. You can use a different nose punch to change the nose profile if you so choose.

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[sutherpride59]

The easiest way I know would be to beagle a mold, basically you strategically place small strips of aluminum tape on the mold faces that meet until you get the desired size. I did a small strip on all 4 corners of a mold that was casting a bit small and as long as you only do one size you won’t get flashing. As a plus it slightly gives more room for air so fill out is even better. Did this with one mold just to get better fill out.

By the way it’s called beagleing a mold, should be a sticky somewhere about it.

[sutherpride59]

It’s in the classics and stickies in the LEEmenting article.

[GhostHawk]

I did it for a Win 94 .30-30 with a bad bore.

I drilled a block of plastic to slightly larger than the size I wanted to size them up to.

Reversed the drill in the chuck so I had the flat end down.

Placed a piece of thin steel over the hole in the table.
Block over the steel, bullet in hole, point up, brought the drill press down (not spinning) added a 3' piece of 3/4 " pvc over the handle. Gave it a good pull, turned a pointed bullet into a flat point and went from .312 to .32.

Cranked out 50, sized to .314 and loaded. Dead not lead but still no groups, but they shoot and have nice flat points.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

+1 rcmaveric, it is called bumping up. Squeeze from the ends, the middle gets fatter, vise, lubrisizer, press of some sort, consistency critical for accuracy. Should be lots of info on it.

[upnorthwis]

Or you could just buy the right size mold. My (not custom) SAECO #740 cast .411 and I size to .410.

[NSB]

Knurl it by running it between two files. Smokeless muzzle loaders are doing this all the time.

[bolivor]

As Upnorthwis suggest,buy a.409 mold

[Kev18]

Thanks, il do some research on bumping up boolits!

[country gent]

A "bump" die can be made for a reloading press. 7/8 14 body is okay better is one of the newer press with a 1 1/4 12 bushing this allows for a much bigger die body and more working room in the die body. The die and ejector along with a means of operating the ejector. The bullets will come out harder than going in.

A die body is made with the needed threads for the press and a bore thru of desired bullet dia. A cap is made with with 3 machine screws holding it on and a 1/4" - 38" hole thru. this is the nose punch / ejector retainer. A nose punch is made with a bore dia od and the nose shape bored and lapped into the end and a stem to match the hole in the retainer with some clearance. A fine shot thread on the end of the stem for a nut to retain the spring. Made from bar stock with a end on one side to clip in the ram like a shell holder and around 4" long 1/2"-3/4" wide 1" tall a 1/4 or 5 1/16 threaded hole in each end parallel to the ram o the rods clear the press frame at the top. a piece of 1/2" x1" with the rod holes matching the lower. Lengths need to be experimented with so the press reaches full stroke.

In use the body is threaded into the press the pusher ejector installed in the ram and the die body is set to height to allow the ram to cam over sizing the bullet out to the bodies bore. The nose is supported in the ejector punch so little change occurs there. The top plate of the ejector is adjusted to have some play and to eject the bullet on the down stroke. The spring keeps the nose punch raised and in position.

Bullets pan lubed before hand will provide the lube for the die or a small amount worked on the bullets. Done right bullets come out of this die ready to use and need not be sized down again. If your careful you can eject with a hammer or hand lever assemby instead of the above set up, but at some point the hammer will bend the ejector rod or swell it to where it requires attention. A good polished finish in the body saves a lot of force and makes for a nice looking bullet. A good lead in to the die body helps not just with the bullet but the pusher as well. I have seen these dies made up to bump bodies up and or bore riding noses as well. Some think this process also lessons the effects of small voids in the bullets as it does compress them when expanding up.

This works and is a lot of work to make. A custom mould or a standard lapped out to what you want is probably cheaper and easier

[gwpercle]

The easy answer is just get a properly dimensioned mould . You are already casting so you need a good excuse to buy a proper fitting mould for your rifle.....right ! !
NOE has many sizes for the 40-82, check out their site.
Gary

[Ballistics in Scotland]

The easiest way I know would be to beagle a mold, basically you strategically place small strips of aluminum tape on the mold faces that meet until you get the desired size. I did a small strip on all 4 corners of a mold that was casting a bit small and as long as you only do one size you won’t get flashing. As a plus it slightly gives more room for air so fill out is even better. Did this with one mold just to get better fill out.

By the way it’s called beagleing a mold, should be a sticky somewhere about it.

That can be an extremely useful technique. It keeps the bullet central in the bore when it otherwise might not be. But the diameter is larger in one direction, and not at right angles to it. I would be wary of it in a two-groove rifle or my three-groove Swiss 1889. It may also reduce but not eliminate the gas blowby we find with an undersize bullet. I would like to follow a beagled bullet with a wax cookie or waxed felt wad.

[bangerjim]

Powder coating is by far the fastest and easiest way to enlarge the diameter of a boolit a few thou. Simple and fast. I have done it many times with excellent results. And NO GREASE NEEDED!!!!!

Messing with your molds and "bumping" is a hit-or-miss thing and you can easily ruin a good mold.

bangerjim

[Walter Laich]

Powder coating is by far the fastest and easiest way to enlarge the diameter of a boolit a few thou. Simple and fast. I have done it many times with excellent results. And NO GREASE NEEDED!!!!!

Messing with your molds and "bumping" is a hit-or-miss thing and you can easily ruin a good mold.

bangerjim

+1
much easier and faster

[Kev18]

Il look into powder coating too I guess. Might be an easier process.