Are older Mec bottle holders really soldered on?

[RogerDat]

I have to replace a damaged bottle cap that powder and shot bottle screw into on an older MEC 650 and wondered are they really just soldered on with actual solder?

I have multiple options to un-solder the damaged cap and either re-solder or more likely JB Weld a new cap on after I drill a hole in the new cap of the correct size. If the cap is more brazed than soldered I'll just hit it with a grinder and take the cap down to clean metal to attach the new one. De-soldering would be less likely to damage underlying part than a grinder but if it's not really a solder it would be a waste time to try and remove it with heat. Besides hotter than the devil's door knob out in the garage right now.

I'm also looking for someone that has the MEC 12 gauge sizing ring that goes inside a tube on some of the MEC presses. I need to know the outside diameter and thickness to see if it might fit a Pacific DL-105

[jaguarxk120]

Chances are the caps are brazed on, that shot bottle puts a lot of stress on that small cap.

[Faret]

Mec makes a solid top might be worth looking at. I put one on mine and would never go back to the cap style.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I had to replace a top bottle holder after the shot bottle side broke off spilling a bottle full of #7 1/2 shot all over the floor. The new piece from Mec for my model 700 doesn`t sit down as fully as the old one did on the drop tube. I`ve had a friend try to braze the cap on the old top, but it doesn`t stay in place.Robert

[RogerDat]

The replacement part is a possibility, the new style the bottle cap has been replaced with a more substantial bushing but there are some other parts I must buy to make things work so I was hoping to avoid the $40 price of replacing a part just for a damaged bottle cap. I'm fortunate that the damaged cap is on the powder side which should have less strain than the shot side.

Even if I bought the bottle supports to assist a repaired bottle cap version it would only be around $27 and frankly I always thought those heavy bottles should be supported better than just being held up by the mouth screwed in.

Supposed to be cooling off outside, guess I'll just hit the damaged cap with a propane torch and see if it comes off. If not I'm guessing it will remove with a 4" grinder. Frankly I have more faith in JB Weld than I do brazing, that is a tough flat joint between thin cap and thicker part. Soldering in theory could make 100% contact between the cap and the measure bracket if done right. Been a long time since I soldered larger metal parts together other than copper pipe. The JB Weld will make 100% contact plus fillet around the edges to bond up the side of the cap a touch. Trick to that I think will be clamping snug but not so tight all he JB is driven out from between the two surfaces.

[Faret]

I had to replace a top bottle holder after the shot bottle side broke off spilling a bottle full of #7 1/2 shot all over the floor. The new piece from Mec for my model 700 doesn`t sit down as fully as the old one did on the drop tube. I`ve had a friend try to braze the cap on the old top, but it doesn`t stay in place.Robert
I think I put a oring under the drop tube to raise it up on my 650.

[RogerDat]

Good to know. I'm working on a 650.

[dbosman]

I pealed a badly bent one off with a pair of pliers. What was left looked like solder to me.

[RogerDat]

I hit my mangled one with a propane torch this weekend and soldered on it is. The center hole in the cap part is punched through which leaves a round lip that goes into the bar carrier. So it won't easily move laterally in any direction. I applied JB Weld and worked it around the opening and into the carrier, scraping it smooth of excessive JB on the inside so it would be smooth enough for the charge bar. The JB also went up the ribbed sides of the cap so that should help with lateral movement. This evening I figure the JB will be all set up and I'll be able to give it a I a try.

Had some corrosion and burs in the shot drop tube that are causing the shot to bridge. Cleaned them up and it got better just not right yet. If it wasn't for the prime / deprime being easier and the crimping of the shells coming out a bit better with less "arm strong" force I would be as productive on a wack-a-mole or single stage.
I will say for my uses a progressive is a PITA to set up correctly. I however am more stubborn than smart so it generally will work out in the end.