The Husqvarna Model 46 Project

[am44mag]

My 1943 Husky 46 in 9.3x57mm is finally on the way!

Overall, it's in pretty good condition from what I can see. The bluing looks good (80%), the bore was listed as good with some light frosting, and it comes with a side mounted scope base. I originally just wanted iron sights, but the option for a scope is a nice option to have, and I think I could pull off having a receiver mounted peep sight and the scope on at the same time if I wanted to. They shouldn't interfere with each other.

Now, this gun does have some minor issues. Mainly the stock. It's got three cracks in it. Two on the toe, one behind the tang. They're short and tight, so I don't think they would cause problems, but might as well fix them just to be safe. The wood itself looks to be in good condition otherwise. It doesn't look like it's been beaten up much if at all. The figure on the wood is very nice and has a ton of potential. I'm going to bring some life back into this gun before it's all said and done. I'm going to do everything I can to make this gun keep it's vintage looks though.

Here's what's on the agenda.

Mount a scope (I have an El Paso made Weaver K4 on the way.
Either make a peep sight, or buy a Redfield 70 or 80 receiver mounted peep sight and have the receiver drilled and tapped for it.
Repair cracks using glass bedding epoxy
Refinish the stock with a classic oil/varnish finish. I'm thinking either satin or semi gloss.
Touch up bluing if necessary
Mount Swedish Mauser sling
Possibly glass bed the receiver and free float the barrel. Invisible improvements.

What do you guys think?

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1800/4785/products/Z24772A.jpg?v=1500054612

[MT Chambers]

Very nice classic rifle, butt may be low for scope use.

[Wayne Smith]

Mine was set up for scope but needs a rather high rear bell to clear the handle. I got away with using an old (my father's scope on his 336) bear cub (Redfield, I think? - mid 50's) that is a 4 power scope. All my other scopes were too big or the rings are too low. I am using a medium set of rings. If I keep the original stock on it I'll leave it like this. I might have a stock made with a higher comb and I can switch to higher rings.

[am44mag]

The mount is on the side of the receiver, so the scope is going to be offset to the left. Odd arrangement but I can see why they did it. A LOT of huskys I looked at were drilled for a side mount. The ones drilled for a traditional top mount usually had stupidly high rings.

The scope I'm using is pretty petite, so that helps too (El Paso Weaver K4). The rings I have are mediums I think. I'll have to see how everything fits together.

At $30 shipped, I think I stole this thing.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/s4AAAOSw5PJbCyaX/s-l1600.jpg

[Texas by God]

That combo will be classic. Perfect for our part of the country. Post it up when it's lined out, please.

[NoZombies]

Great rifle, with an appropriate scope for it. I would expect that to be a very nice hunting rig indeed.

[RustyReel]

You should probably glass bed the recoil lug to prevent any further cracking at the tang. Tang cracks seem to be common on these rifles.

You may have a hard time using the existing side mount. You will probably have to look long and hard to find an original set of rings. It may be possible to alter the base somehow to take a common set of rings but I have never seen it done. Even if you don't scope it, I think the side mount base looks better than holes.

The stock does look nice and should finish up really nice.

Congrats on your buy!!

[sharps4590]

Don't be surprised if when you pull the barreled action from the stock there is a lot of wood hogged out. I bedded mine and had to do it in two stages just to get everything filled. It wasn't a problem, just not what I expected. I didn't bother free floating the barrel and evidently it wasn't needed but, as you well know, that is an individual rifle thing. If I believed it necessary I wouldn't have hesitated to do so. Mine cleaned up really nice so I left the wood and bluing alone. It's personal opinion but I'd go with a satin finish if I were ever to re-finish mine....which is highly unlikely. I kinda like the "character" marks and am one of those weird sticklers for originality. One thing is certain, no mods you make are going to hurt the value. It isn't as if they're rare, high end collector's. My bore is "bright & shiny" so I got lucky there as well. The one I bought is unmolested so scope mounting was never an issue or consideration. Sometimes a fella does get lucky. A receiver mounted aperture sight would have been a real plus for me. That K-4 will look just right on that rifle.

Beyond that, I think, and surely hope, you're really going to enjoy working with that cartridge. I always enjoy working with any less than common cartridge and the 9.3 X 57 has become one of those that always brings a smile to my face. It's one of those that it's actual killing ability is way beyond its paper ballistics.

[am44mag]

Was thinking about just bedding the recoil lug, but if the wood is going to be hogged out, I might as well bed the whole receiver and the first inch of the barrel. Yeah, those cracks were on pretty much every rifle I looked at.

One the scope mount, would I not be able to just use weaver rings? It looks like a weaver style mount.

The scope came in, and I am amazed how clear it is, especially for it's age. It's not as clear as the Vortex Crossfire I bought a few months back, but it's not far off. For a $30 scope, that's amazing.

[500Linebaughbuck]

good job!!!

i've bought 2 m46 in 9.3x57 a couple of years ago. i've cleaned them but i've put them in a safe and forgotten them. i should take them out hunting.

[Landy88]

That is going to be nice when you get it all in, together, and shooting.

These are terrific old rifles.

[RustyReel]

One the scope mount, would I not be able to just use weaver rings? It looks like a weaver style mount.



I was thinking about this one, that came on one of the Husky's I purchased. The one on your looks a little different. Would be interesting to know if standard bases fit....it doubt it. Keep up posted.

222085

[sharps4590]

am44, I am of absolutely no help with the scope mounting. They used so many different types all I would know to do is keep trying until you find something that will fit/work. I cannot help but believe something commonly available is adaptable. Good news on the K-4!!! As far as your wood being hogged out obviously I don't know but, mine certainly was!! Oddly, mine did not have the usual crack behind the tang, or anywhere else, so I bedded it before I ever shot it. I don't think the rifle I got had seen a lot of use and that was just the luck of the draw.

[Texas by God]

Enabler. I've started to bid on a couple of Weavers!

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[Drm50]

The only thing I have to add is the stock finish. I have suffered remorse from putting modern
finish on old classics. I now hand rub them with boiled linseed.

[nekshot]

Enabler. I've started to bid on a couple of Weavers!

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I luv those old weavers even though its a **** shoot on wether they will hold true or move around. I spent alot of ammo until I finally admitted they were shot even though they look clear. I thought I would get a bunch of these old weavers redone but not at 150 bucks a pop.

[Texas by God]

True, Nekshot. When I get one new to me, I box test it with my Tikka 22-250 before mounting it on its intended.

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[am44mag]

Got the gun! I will post some pics later.

It's lighter than I expected it to be, and Simpson's definitely understated this gun's condition. The bore is nice and shiny, the bluing is very nice and there's really not a lot of wear on it, and the stock is definitely not in the "poor" condition they rated it to be. Yes, it has some issues (90% of which is that crack on the toe), but it's still very nice and solid. I have decided against refinishing it. The finish was just dull and covered in 70+ years of grime. I wiped it down with iso alcohol and you would not believe how filthy that stock was. After that, I took some 0000 steel wool and poured a little teak oil on it. I gave everything a light scrubbing, wiped off the teak oil, and it really brightened up that finish. It's not a mirror shine by any means, but it's a very nice satin/low semi gloss. It still looks 70 years old, just cleaner and brighter. The grain also pops more.

The scope mount is a mystery. It's too small for a weaver, and I can't seem to find out any info on it. It MIGHT fit the old style of .22 rings. I'll have to see. The rail is 10.5mm wide, and has a 45? degree angle that cuts inwards to form a dovetail.

Also found out something else about the gun that confuses me as to why they would do it. A Swedish Mauser sling does not fit! That seems like a no brainier. It's Swedish, it's a Mauser, why would you put tiny rings on it that need a 22mm (0.866") sling instead of the most common sling in the country? Meh, the person who made that decision is probably long dead. I'll have to do a little looking to find something that will fit. If all else fails, I'll make one.

The gun seems to shoot well. I only fired 5 rounds with a light load of IMR 4320. I was probably getting around 1800-1900 fps with the 270gr SP I was using. It was mainly just something to test the gun with. I'm not the best with iron sights, but I'd certainly be able to feed myself with this rifle.

[Texas by God]

If .22 tip off rings fit it, you can install a stop pin and be good to go.

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[sharps4590]

Welll.....yahoo and good for you!!!!!! The condition you describe your rifle is similar to the one I bought. I treated mine the same way with similar results.

Evidently your sling swivels are for the typical 3/4 in. northern European size sling. Husky used the sporting rifle sling swivels, not the military rifle swivels. Levy's carries quite a few and their quality is excellent. The German Gun Collector's Assn. also keeps some in stock. The quality of the slings they sell is probably a bit above Levy's. Frankly, I've come to prefer the 3/4 sling. It isn't 3/4 throughout, I think mine swell to an inch after the swivel loop and I got all mine from Levy's.

http://www.levysleathers.com/hunting/product-category/rifle-slings/european-size-rifle-slings/

Mine wasn't drilled and tapped for any kind of scope, which was my preference and, with the factory open sights, benched and bagged, it cloverleafs at 50 yards with both jacketed and cast loads. Oh, mine was lighter in weight than I expected as well. I think they're really good rifles and undervalued....and hope they stay that way!!!!

[am44mag]

So after a lot of looking, I have concluded that I'm not going to find a set of rings that fit this base, and if I do, I'm going to pay way too much for them. So I got an idea...

You can buy Picatinny rail blanks for less than $10 for 12", and they look to have enough meat to the underside of them to cut a groove in them that would slide over my weird Swedish rail. What if I cut the rail to length, cut that grove into it, and add some set screws to ensure that it stays put? Seems simple enough. Either I can find a machinist to cut the groove for me (calling all members? :D) or I can do it the hard way with a drill press, Dremel, files, and a lot of elbow grease. Thoughts?

Got the best measurements I could. I'm not 100% sure about that angle though. It LOOKS like a 45 degree angle, but my math says it's a 14 degree angle. I'll look into that more tomorrow.

222390

[Gewehr-Guy]

If the extra height doesn't matter, you could just screw a blank Weaver base or rail directly on top of the existing base. Looks like there is enough width on top to provide a stable area to attach a rail. Would a Griffin& Howe base be similar, I have never examined one and don't know the dimensions, but I do know they are very expensive.

[am44mag]

If the extra height doesn't matter, you could just screw a blank Weaver base or rail directly on top of the existing base. Looks like there is enough width on top to provide a stable area to attach a rail. Would a Griffin& Howe base be similar, I have never examined one and don't know the dimensions, but I do know they are very expensive.

I looked at the Griffin & Howe, and that ain't gonna happen, lol. WAY to rich for my blood.

Screwing on a rail might be a good solution too. I don't know if this mount has any value to it, but drilling and tapping it might be the best solution. I believe it's aluminum, though I'm not sure. The problem is, I can't get it off the gun. The screws won't budge.

[am44mag]

Welp, those screws aren't ever going to come out. They look to be welded in from the inside of the receiver. Not sure why anyone would do that instead of just using loctite, but ok. Anything I do is going to have to be done with the mount attached to the rifle. Found a rail marketed toward old .22 and shotgun dovetails. Says it's adaptable to 9mm-11mm rails. Mine are 10.5mm. My fingers are crossed that it'll work, but at $9, I'm not too worried. Maybe a little bit of modification will make it fit, and if not I have an old .22 that it could go on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180621/510b2c36f677e9c5b4b4cc865f9bf1a7.jpg

[am44mag]

Got the adapter in, and it was CLOSE to fitting. It would slide over the dovetail, but didn't have much play in it. After a little filing, it tightened up just fine. The scope is on the gun, and it was kind of odd trying to get the scope leveled to the barrel when it's off to the side of it. It's a little higher than I'd like, but usable. I might make a leather cheek riser to fit the stock in the future. I'll get some pics after I cool off a bit. It is HOT today.

[Landy88]

I might make a leather cheek riser to fit the stock in the future. I'll get some pics after I cool off a bit. It is HOT today.

Good work. Glad you found a fix. Looking forward to pics; and when done of the cheek riser, too.

[am44mag]

I'm thinking of an old west like style with some loops for some extra ammo and the lacing on the bottom. Maybe a pouch? I think that would fit the rifle's style very well. I'll see about getting some leather ordered and get working on that probably in a couple weeks. It doesn't need much of a cheek riser to be honest. The scope just a tad bit too tall, but it's still very usable.

https://brassstacker.com/images/D/Brass-Stacker-Rick-Lowe-Mauser-K98-M48-Butt-Stock-Ammo-Carrier-4.jpg

Oh, and pictures!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180622/61b4398840351fadb73b3e475ee0c518.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180622/f9225b73112e58711d9bc1a5c014a6ca.jpg

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[Gewehr-Guy]

Is the scope offset enough to use the iron sights too? If you hunt hogs,that caliber sure should knock'em down easily. Do you have a mould for it yet? Jim

[am44mag]

Is the scope offset enough to use the iron sights too? If you hunt hogs,that caliber sure should knock'em down easily. Do you have a mould for it yet? Jim

You can easily use either, and this thing would knock down hogs like nobody's business! I'm looking at a couple NOE molds right now, don't have one picked out yet though.

[Landy88]

That's a great result with the fine old rifle. Darn rare for the scope and irons combo thing to work well for either, so that's a big bonus. These have the nicest iron sight stocks that I've used on a bolt gun, too.

Fine looking leather on the other one, too.

[Texas by God]

I have lower rings; if you can use them, holler. That is a very neat rifle!

[Texas by God]

I wanted to get a Lee .366" 9mm Mak mould for a small game/ plinker boolits when I had a 9.3 x62mm but I never got to it. An idea for you.....

[am44mag]

I wanted to get a Lee .366" 9mm Mak mould for a small game/ plinker boolits when I had a 9.3 x62mm but I never got to it. An idea for you.....

That's an interesting idea. I'll have to give it a try.

[sharps4590]

Except for the rail and the double rings it still sort of has a European look. As long as it works for you...that's the main thing.

Aaron, here's the Accurate Molds bullet I chose for my Husky. I'm certain I had Tom cut it to different dimensions but I'd have to measure one to know for sure It's been a dandy so far.

http://accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=37-270G-D.png

[lar45]

https://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?645-Handloading-the-9-3x57/page3
Here's a thread with tons of info on the 9.3x57

You might want to slug your bore, they seem to run abit on the large side.
My M46A is .356x.368, my buddy Wayne's M46 is .359x.371".
The throats on both of them are .371" and over .5" long
I ended up sizeing down some Speer .375" 235s to .369" to shoot in my gun. H4895 seemed to be the best powder for jacketed loads. I ran them up to just over 2500fps and shot a Deer with it. It penetrated stem to stern and kept on going.
I really like the wood on your rifle :)

[lar45]

Somebody here sent me some cast bullets from an NOE 368-280FN mold.
I dip lubed with 2500+, used 24gns of 2400 and seated to 2.963" and shot this target. velocity was 1540fps
222738

[sharps4590]

lar, that's a good thread. I need to check in there more frequently. thanks for the link.

[Reverend Al]

I have an old Lyman (Ideal) #3589 that drops a grossly oversized (.366 / .367) bullet at nearly 300 grains and I loaded it for an old boss of mine for his 9.3x74R Belgian made SxS double rifle. Worked great and with that big blunt nose it's a real killer on game. You might be able to find a similar mould and enlarge it to work, or even order a custom made mould to your dimensions.

https://i.imgur.com/AYnQdU0.jpg

[am44mag]

There's a few molds I've been looking at. The NOE 368-280-FN is probably the top contender right now, but Accurate has several molds I like the looks of. My bore is 0.368", though I might re-slug it just to make sure because I had some issues with that slugging. I haven't gotten around to doing a pound cast for the throat yet.

http://www.accuratemolds.com/img/bullets/detail/37-245L-D.png

http://www.accuratemolds.com/img/bullets/detail/37-265D-D.png

http://www.accuratemolds.com/img/bullets/detail/37-285H-D.png

http://www.accuratemolds.com/img/bullets/detail/37-290XR-D.png

Oh, and thanks to Texas by God's extreme generosity, I now have a set of low rings mounted on this, and it is an immense improvement both in looks, and in usability.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180627/c484d5ca21ee1f25103803158b8a3947.jpg

[lar45]

Do you have brass and everything already? I used PPU 8x57 and just necked it up in one pass, seems to work great. Wayne wanted the correct head stamp and ordered Norma 9.3x57 brass. Just to see if I could, I converted some 30-06 brass. I cut them down, ran through the 9.3 die to form, then necked up to .375 to turn the necks, then back down to 9.3 and loaded with cast bullets after anealing. They worked great.
Another thing I noticed with a chamber cast of both the M46 and M46A is that the chambers had excessive headspace. So I necked the brass up, then back down with the sizeing die not all the way seated, to give a tight squeeze when the bolt handle was lowered, then fireformed. After that I just neck sized and haven't noticed any case stretching.

[am44mag]

Do you have brass and everything already? I used PPU 8x57 and just necked it up in one pass, seems to work great. Wayne wanted the correct head stamp and ordered Norma 9.3x57 brass. Just to see if I could, I converted some 30-06 brass. I cut them down, ran through the 9.3 die to form, then necked up to .375 to turn the necks, then back down to 9.3 and loaded with cast bullets after anealing. They worked great.
Another thing I noticed with a chamber cast of both the M46 and M46A is that the chambers had excessive headspace. So I necked the brass up, then back down with the sizeing die not all the way seated, to give a tight squeeze when the bolt handle was lowered, then fireformed. After that I just neck sized and haven't noticed any case stretching.

I had some 8x57 that I had made from 30-06. I just necked them up, no neck turning to speak of. There was zero resistance in getting them to chamber. I know a lot of these old 9.3s suffer from having the chamber cut too tight in the neck area, but that doesn't seem to be the case with mine. We'll have to see if that holds true when I stuff some cast in it.

I'm using Hornady custom grade dies, and they have quickly become my favorite set.

[Texas by God]

Very nice! I want one. They are built on the 1896Swedish action, correct?

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[am44mag]

Very nice! I want one. They are built on the 1896Swedish action, correct?

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I believe they're actually a 94 action. Some are made with 98 actions, though those are actually M146s. I've also seen a few guns listed as an M46, but that has a small ring 98 action. Mine's very smooth to work, and has a decent trigger too. Its nothing to write home about, but it's certainly better than most military triggers. As soon as I can get my hands on some more powder, I'll work up a load and post what kind of accuracy I'm getting out of this old beauty.

Also, it's a bit of a moot point now as the scope prevents their usage, but standard 8mm Mauser stripper clips work moderately well with this action, though not quite like they're supposed too. It'll guide the rounds into the mag, but it's loose enough that it's not going to stay put and get ejected when you run the bolt like it would with a k98k. I've heard some 7.62 NATO stripper clips will work better, but if I had to guess (not much of a guess considering the action and where it came from), these are cut for 6.5x55 clips. Still, I like the idea of using 8mm Mauser stripper clips to keep the ammo organized and handy even if I can't use them to feed ammo into the gun.

[Landy88]

Yes, that elliptical expander, for necking up, and their cataloging this old 9.3 as almost standard makes the Hornady dies the ones to get for it. Nice dies in general, too.

Yes, to your supposition on the 6.5 strippers for these - that's what I'm using.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I got here a little late and you seem to have gotten the scope mounted. The mount in post #12 is the one that is removable and the scope will re-index perfectly every time. Makes it nice when you wnat to use irons interchangably.

Most all Swedes that have or had scopes mounted use the same basic hole pattern, and drilling and tapping the receiver for other solutions would have been a mistake.

Like to see a good pic of the left side of the gun showing the Scope Mount as you have it now.

I have a guy in Sweden who probably has the correct mount if you are interested.

Randy

[Texas by God]

I have found the Weaver rings to be pretty good at holding zero when removed and remounted. They've never been pretty but they flat out work. Getting the crosshairs square can be a challenge, though.;)

[500Linebaughbuck]

great, you got me buying 9.3x57 dies, brass and some more boolits!!!!!!

[Texas by God]

It looks serious next to an empty 30-06!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180701/b405b6d03d82f9fe576ebb615bb642ee.jpg

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[am44mag]

I got here a little late and you seem to have gotten the scope mounted. The mount in post #12 is the one that is removable and the scope will re-index perfectly every time. Makes it nice when you wnat to use irons interchangably.

Most all Swedes that have or had scopes mounted use the same basic hole pattern, and drilling and tapping the receiver for other solutions would have been a mistake.

Like to see a good pic of the left side of the gun showing the Scope Mount as you have it now.

I have a guy in Sweden who probably has the correct mount if you are interested.

Randy

I'll get a pic posted either tonight or tomorrow. I have thought about getting the correct mount/rings imported, but aren't there restrictions on stuff like that? I sent an email to US customs asking about it, but in typical bureaucratic fashion I was informed that a response might take 1-3 months...


I have found the Weaver rings to be pretty good at holding zero when removed and remounted. They've never been pretty but they flat out work. Getting the crosshairs square can be a challenge, though.;)

I've always had good luck with Weavers. They aren't fancy, but they sure do work.


great, you got me buying 9.3x57 dies, brass and some more boolits!!!!!!

You're welcome. :p


It looks serious next to an empty 30-06!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180701/b405b6d03d82f9fe576ebb615bb642ee.jpg

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It looks mean, and acts mean downrange, but honestly it's a pretty nice round to shoot. Not as nice to shoot as something light like a .243, but comparable to my Rem 700 in 30-06 with light loads. Considering how light this rifle is, that's pretty darn good.

[am44mag]

I have decided on the NOE 280gr FN. I think I'm going to go for the gascheck design over the PB. I usually prefer plain base, but after doing some reading I think this is the best way to get exactly what I want out of that boolit. The mold should drop at 0.368", which is right on the edge of what I can probably get away with in regards to size. If I need to, I can always PC the boolits to get an extra thousandths or two, or I can either hone out the mold or add a strip of aluminum tape to it. It's not gonna need much no matter what I do. I might get lucky and it get a mold that casts just a little bit oversized.

I'm curious as to how well it's going to fit in the rifle. Tight necks aren't uncommon, and I really don't want to have to deal with neck turning brass.

[am44mag]

Almost forgot. Here's that picture of the mount.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180703/bbe710a113e4277016fe0b3729e0a093.jpg

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[Texas by God]

That looks fantastic.

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[RustyReel]

I know it works, but it just doens't look right stuck between that classic rifle and classic scope. I'd keep an eye out for an original set of rings. Otherwise, nice lookin' rifle.

[am44mag]

Finding an original set of rings is like trying to find an honest politician. There's more than likely one out there, but I haven't seen it yet. :D

I ordered the NOE mold. 3 Cav GC, with a Lyman top punch and 1000 9.3mm gas checks. Cost me $101 after shipping and a 20% coupon for the 4th of July. That's a heck of a deal!

[lar45]

I'm curious as to how well it's going to fit in the rifle. Tight necks aren't uncommon, and I really don't want to have to deal with neck turning brass.

When Wayne and I first got ours, I did chamber casts for both of them.
Wayne's is an M46 and the neck was .394" with a .371 throat that is .565" long, the barrel is .359x.371 6 groove.
Mine is an M46A and the neck is .395" with a .371" throat that is .565" long, the barrel is .356x.368 4 groove.

If your dimensions are similar, then it looks like it will depend on the thickness of your necks. That bullet shot well in mine, but I didn't push it very fast.

Here's a pic of my M46A
223173

[nekshot]

the correct mauser rings are available but I sure can't see paying almost as much as the gun for rings and mounts(well they are all one pc.) I sure enjoy looking at your pictures as I have drawn a line about my finances.

[W.R.Buchanan]

AAron,,, so the center piece with the weaver rail is clamped to the part that is screwed to the receiver?

Pretty sure the rings you are looking for are the ones in Post #12 but can't be sure without seeing the mount on your gun without the scope mounted.

For that gun in lue of a scope I wouldn't hesitate to drill and tap the rear receiver for a Steel Lyman #48 Receiver Sight. I have one on my M96 and it is more than up to the accuracy of the gun which is exceptional. The iron sights on those guns are usually pretty good too.

The good thing about the scope mount base for that gun is that you can remove the scope and replace it without losing the zero, so it makes it possible to go back and forth from iron sights to optics easily. IE: more shooting options.

The guys name in Sweden is Peter Soneson he is at armynavy@ansmag.com

I have dealt with him several times and if anyone can produce those rings it is him. He is also very reasonable. There should be no problem importing scope rings to the US from Sweden, but Peter would know for sure.

It won't cost you anything to ask him, just tell him/show him what you've got and he can tell you if it is fesible.

hope this helps, you've got a cool rifle and I hope you get alot of use out of it. With cast boolits it should last forever.

Randy

[sharps4590]

am, any updates on the 9.3?

[am44mag]

Not yet. I finally got some H4895, so I'm going to work up some loads with the 270gr Speers this weekend. The mold should be here Monday, so I'm really looking forward to that. Really, it's just been too hot to shoot. It's already over 100 here, and will probably hit 107-108 before the day is over. All this next week is going to be high 90s, low 100s.

I have cast a ton of boolits in the last few days though. I've been going stir-crazy not being able to do anything outside.

[am44mag]

I made up 20 pieces of brass. I had about 3 pieces split while I was necking them up. That's not very surprising. The brass was originally 30-06 that was converted to 8mm Mauser. Necking up to 9.3mm is moving quite a bit of brass. I finally bit the bullet and annealed the cases to prevent them from splitting once fired. I'm new to annealing and am frankly terrified of accidentally annealing the case head. I used the lead pot methods, which seems to be the most idiot proof to me other than having an actual annealing machine. A little on the necks helped prevent the lead from sticking (mostly, and it smoked like crazy), and some steel wool and a X-acto knife cleaned up the rest. 10 seconds seemed to be just right. By that point, I could still hold on to the bottom of the case, but it was getting very uncomfortable. Only did that a couple times to confirm that the case head wasn't getting too hot and wore welding gloves the rest of the time.

Just to be safe I'm going to test these cases with low pressure loads first. If no pressure signs show up, they're good.

They're sized, primed, and ready to go!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180722/b437c3cb106993cc928c0ad72c6ec86b.jpg

[sharps4590]

Cases look great!! I expect they'll be fine. I'm really looking forward to your results.

If you do it in a darkened room, annealing just the neck & shoulder with a propane torch, it shouldn't present any difficulties.

It's been pretty miserable here after about 9:00 AM for the last couple weeks so I understand. Temps are moderating considerably today....just in the mid-80's. I still can't do much, being restricted to lifting no more than 10 lbs., so I suppose the weather doesn't matter much right now. Have a follow up appt. this coming Thursday and hope to get turned loose a little.

[Landy88]

Those cases turned out well; and I like that slim loading block, better access than the typical fatter ones. Don't let losing those few cases or the annealing turn you from the grand old round, because straight from new 8mm forming is almost as easy and sure as plain old FL resizing.

[am44mag]

Cases look great!! I expect they'll be fine. I'm really looking forward to your results.

If you do it in a darkened room, annealing just the neck & shoulder with a propane torch, it shouldn't present any difficulties.

It's been pretty miserable here after about 9:00 AM for the last couple weeks so I understand. Temps are moderating considerably today....just in the mid-80's. I still can't do much, being restricted to lifting no more than 10 lbs., so I suppose the weather doesn't matter much right now. Have a follow up appt. this coming Thursday and hope to get turned loose a little.

I though about using the propane torch too. Probably will next time. Getting that lead off the cases is a PITA. It's not too bad today. Not comfortable by any means, but I don't feel like killing over after taking a few steps outside either. Hope the appointment goes well so you can get back to shooting.


Those cases turned out well; and I like that slim loading block, better access than the typical fatter ones. Don't let losing those few cases or the annealing turn you from the grand old round, because straight from new 8mm forming is almost as easy and sure as plain old FL resizing.

Thanks, I made it from some scrap cedar we had lying around. I wanted something I could store easily, and I usually don't make batches larger than 50 rounds for rifle ammo. It fits into the back of one of the shelves on the bench and you forget it's even there.

Annealing is something I've been putting off for quite a while. The only other round I ever attempted to anneal is 41 Swiss, which is probably not the best round to start out with. They have long necks and short bodies that don't give you a lot of room for error.

[500Linebaughbuck]

I made up 20 pieces of brass. I had about 3 pieces split while I was necking them up. That's not very surprising. The brass was originally 30-06 that was converted to 8mm Mauser. Necking up to 9.3mm is moving quite a bit of brass. I finally bit the bullet and annealed the cases to prevent them from splitting once fired. I'm new to annealing and am frankly terrified of accidentally annealing the case head. I used the lead pot methods, which seems to be the most idiot proof to me other than having an actual annealing machine. A little on the necks helped prevent the lead from sticking (mostly, and it smoked like crazy), and some steel wool and a X-acto knife cleaned up the rest. 10 seconds seemed to be just right. By that point, I could still hold on to the bottom of the case, but it was getting very uncomfortable. Only did that a couple times to confirm that the case head wasn't getting too hot and wore welding gloves the rest of the time.

Just to be safe I'm going to test these cases with low pressure loads first. If no pressure signs show up, they're good.

They're sized, primed, and ready to go!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180722/b437c3cb106993cc928c0ad72c6ec86b.jpg


i just used a hornady 9.3x57 fl die and imperial wax to size 8x57's. (the 8x57 rem brass was new.) i still have fire form them. i'll go 44.0gr of h4198 and a 270gr speer.

[am44mag]

I got the mold, and I'm in love with it. Blows those old LEEs so far out of the water, it's not even funny. Now I gotta start replacing my LEEs...

Anyways, this bullet is MASSIVE. Drops at .368, and weights in a 292gr with the check. I don't have the stuff to lube these on my lubersizer yet, so I modified a cheap lee sizing die by drilling it out (not fun as they are the hardest thing known to man). It started life out as a .356", was modified to .358, but isn't ever needed for that. I used a size U drill bit, which just so happens to be 0.368". After drilling and polishing, it came in at 0.3685", perfect for seating gas checks. I'm going to powder coat this first batch an see how they do.

Here's the bullet towering over a 55gr, .224" bullet.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180724/fedc99b4d2b54fa1c0bc3d851d5c0cb7.jpg

[am44mag]

The good news is that these massive bullets fit in the gun. I won't have to turn the necks at all. The bad news is, I tossed the brass. Not sure if it was me or it, but out of the 5 rounds I tested, 3 had primers back out about half way, one of which was pierced. I used charge of 13gr of Red Dot (very pleasant to shoot load BTW), so I doubt it was a pressure issue. It's not worth risking the gun or me over 20 pieces of brass.

[500Linebaughbuck]

this out to help you about your primers backing out. start at #3
https://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?645-Handloading-the-9-3x57&highlight=primers+back

[am44mag]

this out to help you about your primers backing out. start at #3
https://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?645-Handloading-the-9-3x57&highlight=primers+back

Interesting. It might be worth testing the brass some more to see what it does. The primers were the only sign of pressure present on the case, and as I said, it was a pretty light load. I'll have to get a .375" or .410 expansion die.

[500Linebaughbuck]

what type of die are you using?

mine is hornady, so there's no need for a expansion die. it take 8x57 prvi brass and necks them up to 9.3mm. then you fire form the brass and you are done.

todo 8x57 brass take imperial wax or 100% lanolin wax and put IN the case. you can spray( one shot or your own) or wax them on the outside. i did both(imperial and lanolin) of the in methods, i didn't find that one was better than the other. i would put the 9.3x57 fl die about 1/8" from the shell holder. i would put my 8x57 case in the shell holder, and then i would push the case half way, pull out the case and push the case the whole way. the case is now a 9.3mm. all it needs to do is fire form.

[Landy88]

It was a pressure issue - too little pressure.

[am44mag]

I put 10 rounds through the gun today. First off, let me just say that this thing is a thumper on BOTH ends of the gun. You definitely know you're shooting 270gr bullets. It's light weight probably contributes a lot to that, and it also gets HOT. The load I used was a 270gr Speer over 46.0gr of H4895. Not a max load, but certainly not a light one either. It was probably pushing that bullet at 2100-2200 FPS.

I got the scope sighted in while I was testing the ammo to see what was going on. Almost all of the rounds had primers back out. I also kept an eye out for the appearance of any rings. All of the casings had rings from the sizing die, so that made it difficult. All of the brass is marked RP, FC, or Winchester.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180726/cedd50fec0ac46a934ca979429edd1da.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180726/b75bce015fa4611d13337eb3f77777d9.jpg

All was going pretty well until round number 10. I noticed it was a little sticky on extraction, and I found this...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180726/e36feb38685e980e29865b5dfcc8ea18.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180726/429a9a2aa6010c55c6418ece5f6f5d04.jpg

It has a Winchester WW Super head stamp.

Luckily there was no damage to the gun or me. In fact, I don't even think there was any gas venting. I have no idea where that bullet went as it missed the target, but I guess this was a best case scenario for a case head separation. Now the question is, why did it happen? Was it bad annealing, bad head spacing, bad brass, or some combination of the three? Like I said before, I don't think I had let the heat get to the case head when I annealed them. I held them with my bare hands until they started getting too hot to hold, and then they immediately went into a bucket of water. Surely I didn't manage to hold onto a 400-600 degree piece of brass? I noticed after annealing while I was priming that most of the cases seemed to have loose primer pockets. I'm not sure if that was just because the brass had been fired at least a time or two before, or because I did something wrong while annealing.

I have a neck sizer on the way that should solve head spacing issues as described in that Gunboards thread. I guess I'll have to see how that does. I'm tempted to throw away the rest of the 9.3 brass I had made. I do not want to test my luck with it.

[am44mag]

Did a little investigating. I cut into one of the cases that had not had a primer back out thinking maybe they stretched and knocked it back in. After close examination, I can find no obvious signs of case head separation such as the distinctive groove that forms inside the case. I've seen photos of these grooves and they are pretty easy to spot once the case it opened up. Mine looks like a normal case. I don't know how many times a case would need to be fired in a gun with excessive head space in order for that groove to appear, but considering the fact that the case that had it's head separate was fired only once in that chamber, I'd assume it's not many. This round likewise had only been fired once in this chamber. Sorry for the blurry pic, but that's the best I could get.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180726/e63601fa4c864653e439311c12a7c4cb.jpg

[sharps4590]

My two coppers...I think you need to get your cases headspaced on the shoulder. Neck up the case to some larger caliber then set a false shoulder with your 9.3 die, fireform and THAT should eliminate the primer backing out and probably the head separation you experienced. After that neck size only or just BARELY bump the shoulder. Might back off your powder charge as well. Just 'cause a cartridge can be run up to that velocity doesn't mean it has to be.

[Texas by God]

Bad brass. That Win case was just worn out. Cull out the loose pocket brass for sure. Neck sizing or partial sizing should help. A Limbsaver slip on pad for bench work is a great help. They are worth the 30 some odd bucks that they cost.
I used that bullet at 2200 fps in my CZ 9.3x62 and it let you know it was serious. Whistles thru whitetail deer, too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[am44mag]

I think you're both correct. I might have just gotten a hold of some bad brass, but I do believe the gun has some head spacing issues too. I'll test out some of my other brass and ensure that it's still good before I anneal and resize. My neck sizer should also be here tomorrow, so I'll neck the cartrige up to 40 cal and then back down. That should create a pretty good false shoulder for the case to head space off of.

I have no doubt that 270gr bullet would knock a dear over dead like nobody's business. How the meat damage? I assume it's probably minimal with that big slow bullet.

[500Linebaughbuck]

I think you're both correct. I might have just gotten a hold of some bad brass, but I do believe the gun has some head spacing issues too. I'll test out some of my other brass and ensure that it's still good before I anneal and resize. My neck sizer should also be here tomorrow, so I'll neck the cartrige up to 40 cal and then back down. That should create a pretty good false shoulder for the case to head space off of.

I have no doubt that 270gr bullet would knock a dear over dead like nobody's business. How the meat damage? I assume it's probably minimal with that big slow bullet.


i think the 270gr speer and the 285gr prvi rn have a soft lead core but the jacket thickness is minimal. i don't know that it will cause/not cause meat damage.

https://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?1264-9-3x57-Tests-Repost&highlight=270gr+speer
you can try this

[Texas by God]

Tight behind the shoulder thumb size exit no meat damage- it just let the deer's life out with no drama.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[sharps4590]

Can't speak for the jacketed stuff but I know with your cast bullet you'll be able to eat right up to the hole....and it will flatten any deer....or anything else for that matter...as effectively as the j-word bullets.

[lar45]

Both of mine and Wayne's had head space issues. I necked the cases up to .416" (I think) and then back down with the 9.3 die backed out a little way. Then adjusted it in until the handle would just close. After I fireformed the brass this way, I had no problems with primers backing out and have not had any case head seperations.

[am44mag]

I haven't been feeling great the last week, so getting out and working in the shop has been hard. I think I fixed the issue though. I necked up to .416", and used the FL die to neck it back down. I adjusted it to where the handle would just barely close as lar suggested, and it seems to have fixed the issue. The brass I used was the same brass that had primers backing out of it, but that issue stopped. I only tested one round because there's a storm coming in, but it's definitely promising. I will test it more whenever the rain passes.

Lar, are you necking straight up to .416 from .368, or are you using an intermediate step? Mine will neck up without splitting, but it's slightly off center. Necking it back down re-centers everything. I'm kind of wondering if the press is somehow causing it. I'm using an old Pacific press that requires you to pull up on the handle instead of pushing down. I might set up my old RCBS press and see how it does.

[10x]

For those of you who are shooting the NOE 285 grain in 0.368" using a wheel weight plus 2% tin alloy do you have a max speed where group sizes grow?

[am44mag]

For those of you who are shooting the NOE 285 grain in 0.368" using a wheel weight plus 2% tin alloy do you have a max speed where group sizes grow?

My alloy is close to that, and they're casting at 0.3685". As soon as I make sure the head spacing issue is dealt with, I plan on working up some loads with that bullet. Hopefully this week. I'll let you know what I find out.

If you powder coat, you can probably get away with near full power loads to be honest. 2200 FPS seems completely doable with a powder coated bullet. I've heard of people pushing them much faster than that.

[10x]

My alloy is close to that, and they're casting at 0.3685". As soon as I make sure the head spacing issue is dealt with, I plan on working up some loads with that bullet. Hopefully this week. I'll let you know what I find out.

If you powder coat, you can probably get away with near full power loads to be honest. 2200 FPS seems completely doable with a powder coated bullet. I've heard of people pushing them much faster than that.

That would be appreciated. I don't know if I have a bullet problem or a bedding problem , or both , I am getting some very large (18" groups)

I am sorting out some bedding issues created by the D.P.O. (Dispicable Previous Owner) who butchered the stock while attempting to bed the rifle