? About stock stain

[iron brigade]

Yesterday I bought a JM marked marlin 1895 cowboy in 45-70. Thing is he stained over the original finish with some red stain.
Is there a way to remove the red stain without affecting the original stain or finish underneath?
Thanks

[nagantguy]

Not that I’m aware of; I’ve finished 100s of stocks and stain and refinish wood work and trim and furniture for a living . Anything that will loosen the top coat of stain will also eat the finish underneath. Best bet is to take it all down to bear wood and start over. It’s a shame when someone bubbas something like a stain job that is so easy to do right and it’ll look so much better in the end.

[iron brigade]

Thanks, yeah what a shame. Oh well it's a nice shooter.

[nagantguy]

The stripping is the hard dirty part after that you have a fresh canvas and truly make it yours, something special , and if done right will last several lifetimes!

[GhostHawk]

If it was a good piece of wood in the first place chances are it won't need a lot of work.

Strip it, I personally prefer true oil, several very thin coats hand rubbed in over time gives a very nice finish.

I've done a few in the last 5 years. One was my old Sheridan Blue Streak. Original finish was peeling off badly.

Take your time, get it right.

[nagantguy]

Hand rubbed tru oil done several coats over a long period is a very nice finish and very easy to “touch up” down the road.

[Minerat]

I tru oiled a Weatherby lam stock with 6 coats it was nicer then the original.

[iron brigade]

I have read up on the tru oil, seems like the way to go. What would I use to strip the stock? Do I need to do any sanding? You tube has a couple videos about it. Thanks fellas.

[Char-Gar]

There are several different products that will strip away the old finish. For an oil or varnish finish Formby's Antique Refinishes is wonderful. For poly finishes Formby and other make strippers to do that.

A light sanding with 320 grit would be in order before refinishing. Tru-Oil works well and I have use it for almost 60 years. Just apply it with your hands, and then wipe off the excess with a paper shop cloth and let it dry. When dry, a very light scrubbing with 0000 steel wool, followed by a dry clean cloth wipe down. Then repeat the process until you have the finish you want. When you have applied the last coat, let the stock sit for about a week to let the finish cure. It may seem dry to the touch, but it will take some days for it to harden.

[fast ronnie]

I have heard that steel wool can "POSSIBLY" leave rust spots from water. I have not had it happen, but I prefer to use Scoth-brite, just in case.

[Shopdog]

Not a direct answer but just general notes....

A "stain" gets down into the wood,so be careful.Without getting too pedantic, somewhere within the historical perspective of,not only firearms but,also furniture..... it was decided that the "color" can be added in the clear.The advantage to the latter is it's way easier to "refinish".... somewhat, irrespective of exactly what chemistry is used in said clear.Yes,there's a huge difference in Dupount "epoxy" and say,poly.But the fact still remains that the colorant is laying on top vs penetration. And don't even "go there" trying to compare the two.Professionally done,you can't tell the difference.Yeah,if some goober is slobbering either on,it looks like heck.But shot professionally, I'd dare anyone to not only tell the difference,but explain the processes?

[Shopdog]

For me,and I'm not alone in this thinking BTW.... from a responsibility standpoint,we choose the lessor of impact.Once you "stain" wood,you pretty much screw over any attempts to freshen up or repair the finish,down the rd.

We see it everyday in not only furniture but firearms and classic trad archery equipment. You need to educate yourself on how and "WHY" these pcs were finished the way they were.

[Gtek]

Be VERY careful with sanding anything around tang areas or front and rear of hand guards, you cannot put it back. Carefully study these areas before disassembly and see if any areas are proud and what may be needed. Usually just wool/pad these areas is all that is needed. Unfortunately the front and rear pieces of wood are very rarely if ever cut from same blank on a production piece, and probably not the same tree. So we can play with stain coloring to match up, Tru Oil and REAL Tung post stain are my paths.

[iron brigade]

Okay I stripped off the whole works and sanded down what was left. Removed two dings as well. Was careful sanding the tang and end area's of the stock and forearm. Tomorrow afternoon I'll begin with the tru oil.

[GhostHawk]

I think you will be happy.

I have heard that warning about 0000 steel wool causing rust spots also. Did not happen on either of the stocks I have worked on. Does not mean it can't.

Nice thing about true oil, you can add a layer every evening. And at some point you will go "You know, this is looking GOOD! Do one more, maybe 2 after that.

Then just rub it with an oily rag ever week for a few months. Stop when your happy with what you see.

To me a trueoil finish takes time, but not a lot of skill or experience.
And once you have restored one to that perfect glow. It is a real confidence builder.

[WALLNUTT]

In place of steel wool, bronze wool is available at fine woodworking stores. No rust and it works for HD bore cleaning.

[country gent]

On open grains and end grains I have used 320 grit wet dry paper and tru oil to wet sand this fills in the grain with a very good match to the new finish. I also like to fine steel wool between coats. On rifles with no checkering I may work the tru oil in the first few coats with steel wool even.

[gnoahhh]

Finishing oil employed as pore filler is a losing proposition, especially if you live where there's a good chance it'll get thoroughly soaked multiple times per year. Fill the pores with a good varnish, or better yet epoxy, sanded down between applications until the pores are filled and the wood surface is bare. Then proceed with the oil, if you must. Oil is proven to be the worst finish to prevent water fenestration, period. (But it does look good.) Truoil would've never gained a following if Birchwood Casey weren't marketing geniuses and had it hanging in every gun shop and Walmart in America. Best bet to guarantee a modicum of protection after applying an oil finish is to wax the bejapers out of it with a good paste wax. (And not the "stock wax" that again Birchwood Casey foists on an unsuspecting public. "Hey, if it's everywhere and everyone uses it, it has to be the best right? Right?) Sorry to sound so negative but I (and friends of mine) have had bad experiences with Truoil. 50 years of stockmaking, cabinetwork, and yacht carpentry taught me a few lessons regarding wood finishes that are meant to survive in adverse environments.

As for stains, it's not too late to put away the hardware store oil-based stuff (if that's what you plan to use) and instead send off for a good aniline dye. Oil based stains tend to muddy/cloud wood figure and certainly are not color-fast and have poor UV light resistance. Aniline dyes are the opposite. Try a test sample. You'll be amazed at how lifeless an oil-stained piece of walnut is next to an eye popping dyed piece of walnut.

As for straight oil finished stocks such as done with linseed oil or tung oil (the same for all intents and purposes), that stuff is even worse than Truoil. The only reason factories and arsenals used the stuff for production work was/is because it is the cheapest way to go, not because it's the best finish possible.

[waksupi]

I think you will be happy.

I have heard that warning about 0000 steel wool causing rust spots also. Did not happen on either of the stocks I have worked on. Does not mean it can't.

Nice thing about true oil, you can add a layer every evening. And at some point you will go "You know, this is looking GOOD! Do one more, maybe 2 after that.

Then just rub it with an oily rag ever week for a few months. Stop when your happy with what you see.

To me a trueoil finish takes time, but not a lot of skill or experience.
And once you have restored one to that perfect glow. It is a real confidence builder.

Steel wool will not cause a problem, as long as you let the previous layer of finish dry completely before rub out.

[pietro]

Steel wool will not cause a problem, as long as you let the previous layer of finish dry completely before rub out.



+1 - AND, remove any/all steel wool dust with a magnet before applying the next coat.


.

[reivertom]

When you remove the finish, just be careful not to take the wood down too much, especially around where the wood and metal meet. Be careful at the butt also. so the butt plate will not stand proud.