Rust protecting moulds

[KirkD]

I'm new at casting and this question has probably been addressed a hundred times, but after I'm done casting and got my mould cleaned up, what do I put on it to protect it from rusting? Is Vaseline good? What about regular engine oil? I see down below the post about vacume sealing your moulds in a zip lock bag, but I don't have one of those little machines.

[WildmanJack]

Kirkd, If I were you I'd go to my local drug store and ask the pharmacist to save you some "silica gel" caps. They're placed in all medicine bottles prior to them dispensing your prescription. Take you molds, "DON'T PUT ANY OIL OR LUBE ON THEM" put them in a double zip lock baggie andinclude a few of those silica gel thingies from the drug store. You won't have any problems. I live in South West Florida and that's how I keep mine. No rust, no nothing...
Good luck,
Jack

[KirkD]

Jack, that sounds like a good idea. It's not too humid where I live up here in Canada, so that should do the trick. Thanks.

[Calamity Jake]

I store all my moulds in military 50 cal ammo cans with a silica pak. NO RUST

[Pitmaster]

What about using a little macaroni/pasta or rice in a ziploc bag to absorb the moisture?

[imashooter2]

What about using a little macaroni/pasta or rice in a ziploc bag to absorb the moisture?

If macaroni/pasta or rice absorbed water from the air, you could cook them by leaving them out on the counter.

Instant coffee will work as a desiccant, but it's pretty messy.

Along with the Pharmacist suggestion above, shoe stores get a desiccant pack in every shoe box. They throw out hundreds of packets a week.

[mooman76]

You can save the desicant bags(they come in all kinds of things you buy) and reuse them. Just heat in the oven for awhile at a low temp to dry them out. You could put the coffee in a spice bag to keep it less messy.

[WildmanJack]

KirkD
If you need to re-activate the silica gel , put it in the microwave for 20 or 30 seconds. Becareful as it will be a bit hot when you remove it. That's all it takes.. Oh yeah, make sure it's not in a metal case. just nuke the plastic or cloth bagged ones!!!.
Kack

[KirkD]

Thanks for this great advice. It will save me having to clean all the oil off before using each time.

[mooman76]

You can make your own air sucker outer. Just rig up a vacume with a small connection. Put your moulds in a ziplock bag and seal it all but the small portion with the small connection and suck the air out. When you get the air out, put the small connector out and seal the bag at the same time.

[725]

Oil on a mould before casting makes bad boolits. Wrinkled, poor fill out, and more frustration than anybody needs. I live in humid central and by neccessity, I oil the heck out of mine. I use "Corrosion - X" brand and love it. I just have to clean/deoil each mould before using. It's a hassle, but worth it.

[shotman]

oil dry will work also the 50cal cans is what i use add about 1in -in bottom and piece of towel [to keep dust out of mold] shotman

[cohutt]

oil dry will work also the 50cal cans is what i use add about 1in -in bottom and piece of towel [to keep dust out of mold] shotman

The kitty litter type stuff for soaking up spills on garage floors?

[Tom W.]

When my molds cool I spray them all over with Rem Oil and sometines put them back in the box that they came in, sometimes leave them mounted on the handles. When I re-use the mold it takes maybe 5 or 10 casts to heat it up and every thing pours just as nice as could be.

[FISH4BUGS]

I'm new at casting and this question has probably been addressed a hundred times, but after I'm done casting and got my mould cleaned up, what do I put on it to protect it from rusting? Is Vaseline good? What about regular engine oil? I see down below the post about vacume sealing your moulds in a zip lock bag, but I don't have one of those little machines.

I spray the mould with WD 40, wrap it in a plastic bag, and put it on the shelf. I clean them while the pot is heating. I have never had a problem.
Occasionally I will go through my entire mould stash and respray them and fondle them just to make sure everything is OK.
They are stored in an unheated shed heated only when I want to cast. Humidty is generally low but it can get pretty sticky here in NH on occasion.
I know that is sacreligious (using WD40), but hey....it works for me.
Your mileage may vary.

[CSH]

If you can't locate a quantity of desiccant packs go to your local craft store and buy a tub of silica gel crystals (also called flower drying crystals). A couple of pounds shouldn't set you pack more than $5 or $6 and will protect a bunch of moulds. The stuff I bought several years ago has particles that change colors when moisture is absorbed, letting you know it's time to heat it so it will be "recharged".

[KirkD]

Well men, I stopped off at the drugstore today. They said they get tons of those little dessicant packs in with their shipments and just throw them away. The lady said she'll save them for me and, by tomorrow, she should have a bunch.

[John Boy]

Eezox ... http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=5457.0

[WildmanJack]

There ya go!! Now get a couple of gallon sized zip locks or what ever your molds will fit in and you'll be all set...
Good on ya...
Jack

[Tom W.]

Oh no! Not a mold fondler amongst us!

[Meatco1]

I've never had a rust problem (but then living in Riverside, is like living in the desert), with any of my molds. I will boil in hot soapy water to clean after use, let the mold cool down, then plop them into a large zip lock bag to spray with WD-40. After spraying, I just wrap them in Saran wrap, and put them back into the desk.

Don't know if I would try this living in Lousiana!!!!!!!!!!!

Richard

[FISH4BUGS]

Oh no! Not a mold fondler amongst us!

I am in therapy. I am seeking help for my affliction.