S&W Model 317 Airweight

[Tatume]

Hi Folks,

In another thread I inquired about the Ruger LCR models. I'm also considering the S&W Model 317 Airweight to pair up with my Model 37 Airweight. Those of you having experience with the Model 317, I'd like to hear your thoughts. What do you like about them? What don't you? Is it accurate (for a 3" revolver)?

Thanks, Tom

[Tatume]

Hi Again,

I decided to add a poll to this query. Thanks for your input.

Take care, Tom

[WebMonkey]

i like rugers but would pick some metallic alloy for revolvers most of the time, given the choice.

[Kestrel4k]

I posted this in another S&W 317 thread elsewhere:

My ultralight 317 3" was one of the very first firearms I purchased new (back in ~1998), as I considered it to fill its niche perfectly. This was going to be a 'woods' handgun I always wanted handy, but for serious range work I had other heavier options - so weight mattered more than anything, it needed to be minimized so I would tend to keep it at hand. IMHO it has no competitors, period. The 2" bbl version is isn't even in the same league - the adjustable sights of the 3" are absolutely necessary, much moreso than on my .38Spl service revolvers for example.

I am only a light user and confess to not shooting it very much. My initial experience with it was disappointing accuracy; but after some coaching from an experienced revolver shot (I'm certainly no novice in that regard), I found that it was considerably more sensitive to grip inconsistency than any other handgun I've fired. I know this sounds obvious in retrospect; but if you do purchase one, be prepared to possibly refine your grip technique. Folks do say that the S&W j-frames are difficult to master - I own three (love 'em all) and would only say that about the aluminum models. Most of my dry firing practice w/ those plastic 'wall anchors' has been done in my 317.

I also finally got around to testing a wide variety of ammo, and found that its POI varied considerably throughout the test (left-right as well as the usual up-down). Again, this makes some sense in retrospect, but its degree really made me take notice. From then on, I have been pleased with it now that I sight it in with a specific 40gr loading and never grab anything different.

Unfortunately my ears have become rather sensitive to muzzle blast, and I have found that when firing HV ammo through my 317 it makes my ears ring slightly even when protected by standard earmuffs (this hasn't been the case w/ my 5.5"+ bbls). CCI SV is noticeably quieter through it than other commonly-available ammo so I now use that exclusively. An added benefit is that it is somewhat cleaner than most other 22LR ammo. I did test CCI 'Quiets' through it but found poor accuracy - IME a minimum of a 5-6" bbl is needed for the Quiets to perform consistently (and 10"+ is best).
If I needed to improve its' terminal performance, I would put a 0.180" deep HP into CCI SV w/ my Waltz die - I have had good success with that configuration in a few other firearms. In fact, I use this exact loading in my .22LR grouse rifle.

With regards to the functionality of my example, I have had no complaints whatsoever. I do tend to keep my firearms pretty clean, so have had no issues in the 20 yrs since I bought mine. By far the dirtiest ammo I've tried in it was Aguila 'SV' - firing that reminded me of a blackpowder revolver lol, that pairing was not a good one. With regards to the finish; yes it wears easily and I wish wish wish that S&W would have done a 35+ um black hard anodize finish instead. I have read reliable accounts that Hoppe's #9 will cause the 'worm trails' on the existing finish; so after seeing a little bit of that on mine, I now stay away from that.

The pre-lock ones demand a higher price of course; they are most certainly worth it as I have observed those models to continually appreciate in value while post-lock S&W's do not. I would not trade or sell my particular early 317, as the only satisfactory replacement would be another one, lol. :)

The entire thread is at RFC and is of course interesting reading as well. Hope this helps,
Fact-Based Opinions Wanted: S&W 317 Kit Gun Durability

[Thin Man]

The S&W 317 is an improvement over the Model 43 (airweight kit gun) I bought around 1973. It has an aluminum cylinder with steel inserts to contain the pressure of the cartridge. From the first time I fired this revolver I have had consistent failure to extract with all brands of high velocity ammo, but zero problems with standard velocity ammo. It seems that the steel inserts are not thick enough to keep H.V. ammo from swelling and expanding to the point that they bind in the chambers. To remove them one must pass a cleaning rod or dowel from the face of the cylinder to the rear to remove 4 or 5 fired cases, then those that remain in the cylinder can be kicked out with a push on the ejector rod. I have spoken with other people who owned this model and they had the same experience with their revolvers. In spite of all this I chose to keep the little demon and fire only standard velocity ammo in it. This choice only costs me about 100 FPS but makes operation reliable.

[Tatume]

There were a number of reasons why I made the decision I did and ordered a Model 317. I won't have to buy a new holster, as I expect it to fit my Model 37 holster. I'm experienced in and have the tools to tune the J-frame action. At under 12 ounces it is extremely light. And finally, I have a wide assortment of grips that will fit.

Thank you everyone, for your input and suggestions. After I've put a substantial number of rounds through the gun, I'll report back.

[rintinglen]

Assuming that the LCR comes in 22 and has adjustable sights and a 3 inch barrel, that's the route I would choose.

[gwpercle]

The S&W 317 is an improvement over the Model 43 (airweight kit gun) I bought around 1973. It has an aluminum cylinder with steel inserts to contain the pressure of the cartridge. From the first time I fired this revolver I have had consistent failure to extract with all brands of high velocity ammo, but zero problems with standard velocity ammo. It seems that the steel inserts are not thick enough to keep H.V. ammo from swelling and expanding to the point that they bind in the chambers. To remove them one must pass a cleaning rod or dowel from the face of the cylinder to the rear to remove 4 or 5 fired cases, then those that remain in the cylinder can be kicked out with a push on the ejector rod. I have spoken with other people who owned this model and they had the same experience with their revolvers. In spite of all this I chose to keep the little demon and fire only standard velocity ammo in it. This choice only costs me about 100 FPS but makes operation reliable.

S&W must have solved this problem. My 317-3 , purchased after 2005, has no extraction problems.
All eight cases will eject with a push on the ejector rod. I usually shoot CCI Stingers in it.
I like the adjustable sights and the Hi-Viz front....not so fond of the Vee rear sight blade....I do wish it were a square notch. Except for the Vee sight I love everything else about it. So light you don't know it's there ...until you need it !
Gary

[Tatume]

That's good to hear, thanks.

[Tatume]

The S&W Model 317 Airlite Kit Gun is surprisingly accurate. Although I did not test it from a rest, shooting offhand it is easy to keep ten shots in the black of an NRA B-6 rapid fire target at 25 yards. Most score 10.

The cylinder does not have steel inserts; it is solid aluminum. The aluminum barrel has a stainless steel sleeve. The trigger is super crisp, with a single-action pull weight of 3.5 pounds and no over travel. The gun is comfortable to handle and to shoot. At 11.7 ounces the gun is also comfortable to carry.

Overall, I am very pleased with it.