Small Ring Mauser build

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, I received an email from Old Western scrounger. They had 1916 7x57 barreled actions plus parts kit for $49.00.

Well I ordered one. I called an asked employee. They claim it is a 98 variant with a small ring (like a Turkish). I have a feeling they are wrong, (most likely a re-worked 93) will see next week.

Assuming the barrel is shot out, will need a new barrel. I am open to suggestions. If you had a small ring Mauser. What would you re-barrel to, and why. Randy.

[Tatume]

I'd go with 7x57 mm, because it's traditional and I like the cartridge for hunting.

[Jniedbalski]

My brother had a 1916 Spanish Mauser. It was originally a 7x57 but was converted to 308 win. That’s the Mauser they say is not safe with full power loads. Well this was pre internet and we shot hundreds or thousands of mill surplus’s. I remember one time taking all the bullets loose from the machine gun links we ordered cheep. On day the chamber insert came out with the shot brass. He ordered a dugless extra match barrel and had a local gun smith install it. He ordered the barrel in the original caliber 7x57 mauser. It’s a heavy match 26 or 28 inch and very heavy. Well it does look good but putting that much money in a small ring Mauser just don’t know

[Jedman]

If you find out what it is and need a new ( different ) barrel watch eBay as you can find all sorts of take off barrels and maybe something that will fit. Right now 7 mm barrels are so common they sell usually at the lowest prices of all calibers.

Jedman

[Texas by God]

If I just wanted to hunt varmints and deer I'd go with .257 Roberts, 7x57 for elk. Both are offered short chambered for not too much $$$.
I like my 1916 but it ain't no 98 so I respect it.

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[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, thank you for all your input. Thats kinda what I had in mind. Keep 7x57. Had a Ruger 77 a few years back in that caliber. Sweet shooting. Just wanted input. Might be fishing for a few Mauser parts here in the near future. And, Iv'e already got a Turk 98 in 30-06. Thanks, Randy.

[bstone5]

Have a small ring with a cut rifled barrel installed. The chamber is in 308 Win put the rifle together about 20 years ago. The rifle shoots well and have killed many deer with the rifle.
Got the action on a trade out for some lathe work, the barrel was made in Israel when they were making barrels for converting Mauser to 30 caliber. Purchased six of the barrels many years back from the old paper Shot Gun News.
A cheap gun to build but shoots well.

[toallmy]

I have been thinking about picking up a 7x57 threaded short chamber , from midway ,

[Tatume]

Are you going to carve a stock or use a commercial stock, like Boyds?

[RustyReel]

I would be interested in seeing just exactly what your receive. OWS listing is a little vague and they don't really have any pics. If what you end up with is a shootable rifle that needs a bit of cleaning and a stock then they are a good deal.....if you end up with a pile of rusted parts then not so much. Pics when you get it would be great!! Thanks....

[sixgunner452]

RustyReel, I agree the listing is a little vague. I called. The lady claims it's a 98 variant, small ring. Doubt it. will let Y'all know.

[sixgunner452]

Tatume, about the stock. I am not much of a wood worker. I would need a 98% press fit. I am actually open to anything. Suggestions? Got one for sale? Randy.

[sixgunner452]

Also, would 35 Remington be a suitable cartridge if I end up barrelling? Thanks, Randy.

[KCSO]

The small ring Mauser is not so dangerous because it won't handle pressure although it is a rated 45.000 psi and the 308 will run 50 or more. The small ring doesn't have the safety lug or the gas venting unless it has been converted. We will only do a 93/95 in lower pressure rounds such as the 7x57 257 Roberts ect. I just did a small ring Ovedieo in 7x57 with a barrel from Midway and it made a really nice gun and an accurate shooter too. The cost of the conversion is directly proportional to what work you can do yourself. If you have to pay some one $10 a hole for drill and tap and 30-50 for a bolt handle and then pay for the stock work you are better off buying a Winchester M70 or such.

[sixgunner452]

I have read if this is truely a 1916 Spanish Mauser the bolts are already turned. Are they turned down enough for a scope? Randy.

[Texas by God]

I have read if this is truely a 1916 Spanish Mauser the bolts are already turned. Are they turned down enough for a scope? Randy.No, they are not. Unless you mount the scope obsenely high.

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[Larry Gibson]

Also, would 35 Remington be a suitable cartridge if I end up barrelling? Thanks, Randy.

Yes the 35 Rem would be a suitable cartridge. I rebarreled a M91 Argentine using a Brownell's Shilen 26" barrel pre-threaded and short chambered. It is a sweet shooting rifle and deadly on deer with the RCBS 35-200-FN. I push that cast bullet at 2150 fps in the bolt gun.

However, were I to rebarrel a 1916 Oviedo to 35 caliber I would get the Shilen short chambered 35 Rem barrel with a 14" twist and chamber it to the 35x57 cartridge. The really nice thing, other than it is a great cast bullet cartridge, about the 35x57 is there is no factory cartridge with attendant pressure to worry about.

A standard low cost, easy to rent 35 Whelen finish reamer is used to finish ream the chamber to headspace on the cases you form.

Cases are easily formed from 35 Whelen or 30-06 or by using 8x57 cases.

Dies are standard 35 Whelen dies that have been shortened so the shoulder of the 8x57 case (or 35 Whelen '06 shortened to 57mm) is set back just enough so the longer 35 Whelen neck is formed. No expensive dies are needed....standard Whelen dies are easily shortened.

The formed 35x57 cartridges have the Mauser case taper so they feed w/o any action alteration of the rails.

Again, the cases are easily made and being totally non factory you control the psi level. I have done these conversion to 35x57 on 3 SR Mausers for others. They were very pleased with the cartridge.

I picked up an Oveido M1916 action back in '69. I D&T'd it for scope and receiver sights, forged the bolt handle, added a scope safety, converted it to cock on opening and barreled it with a Star 24" barrel in .308W, Shot that barrel out and rebarreled with another Star (became Shaw) barrel in .308W and also shot that barrel out. The barreled action was bedded in a Richard's Micro Fit stock. I then rebarreled using a new 2 groove 'A3 barrel and chambered it in my own .308 CBC cartridge. The action makes for a nice conversion but I did all the work myself except for the last rebarrel.

219981

[fivefang]

sixgun, 20 + yrs. ago I bought a 7x57 SR , 98, 1910 Mexican Mauser, it had a bad barrel, I had several Swedish 6.5 x55 m 38 barrels threaded one into the action & carefully centered it in a FG-M14 stock fitted a 98 cross bolt with F.G. then added a walnut cheek piece, a Redfield JR & a Tasco fixed 30x so I did not have to bother with a spotting scope, it is all entertainment to me, I just love doing things with Rifles, Fivefang

[Tatume]

Very interesting discussion on the 35x57 cartridge. Thanks.

[sixgunner452]

Yes Sir. Very interesting indeed about the 35x57. I was not aware of this useful sounding conversion.

[Wolfer]

I did one similar to the 35x57. I had a 7x57 barrel bored to .338 with a 14" twist. Reamed the chamber with a 338-06 reamer up to the the old shoulder. I shoot an accurate 34-200BM or the Lee 220 gr to about 1900 fps. I could easily go faster but recoil is starting to rear its head and it handles deer with authority.

The only reason I went with 338x57 was that I had everything to build this gun but the barrel. If I had went 35 I would have to buy molds, check, sizer, dies, brass etc.

Without touching the feed rails this thing feeds slicker than a minnows lip. I did also have to buy a stock blank. A Boyd's prairie hunter. I call it a 34-57 since I like the old black powder designation. The empty case holds 57 gr of fffg. I have 34 Roberts stamped on the barrel. I'm sure there's another like it in the world but I haven't heard of it yet.
I love this gun!

Several years ago I put an F14 Adams and Bennet barrel in 7x57 on a Turkish action. Shaped the stock along the lines of a mod 70 featherweight. It was my favorite rifle until I built the 34. If I only shot jacketed it still would be.

[Hardcast416taylor]

The talk about a small ring `98 type action reminded me. I have a WW 1 Erfurt Kar 98a that is a small ringed action.Robert

[Texas by God]

The talk about a small ring `98 type action reminded me. I have a WW 1 Erfurt Kar 98a that is a small ringed action.RobertNow you're just bragging. I would too.

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[Mr_Sheesh]

Could make a 45ACP bolt gun with that, hmmm

[kens]

I got a small ring spanish mauser and I put a .35Rem barrel on it. It gave me feeding problems. From what I read about on these posts is the .35rem is a hit or miss on the feeding issue.
There are a good many cartridges that work off the mauser case:
257Roberts, 7x57, 6.5x55, 8x57. take your pick they are all fine.
If it actually ends up being the small ring '98, then your safe with the high pressure stuff like .308, etc., maybe you could go modern like 6.5 kreedmore.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, that is a lot of food for thought. While we are speaking 35 rem/35x57's. Do the specs on this barrel appear to be acceptable for a 35 rem/35x57 barrel job with a SR mauser action? As follows:

Star Rolling Block Barrel Blanks
Original unchambered barrel in the white. Measures 20-7/8" long with 6-groove rifling. Shank measures .950" diameter x 1-1/2" long with a Metric 27mm diameter x 2.0 thread. Barrel tapers from 1.165" at the shoulder to .650" at the muzzle, stepped down to .560" diameter."

Many thanks, Randy.

[ulav8r]

Gentlemen, that is a lot of food for thought. While we are speaking 35 rem/35x57's. Do the specs on this barrel appear to be acceptable for a 35 rem/35x57 barrel job with a SR mauser action? As follows:

Star Rolling Block Barrel Blanks
Original unchambered barrel in the white. Measures 20-7/8" long with 6-groove rifling. Shank measures .950" diameter x 1-1/2" long with a Metric 27mm diameter x 2.0 thread. Barrel tapers from 1.165" at the shoulder to .650" at the muzzle, stepped down to .560" diameter."

Many thanks, Randy. What is the barrel material, bore and groove dimensions, and twist rate? The questions would be the same for any cartridge, if the exterior dimensions are large enough.

[sixgunner452]

Sir, that is all the info I was provided. My main question I suppose is if the " Shank measures .950" diameter x 1-1/2" long " would be enough material for the .920 threads on the small ring Mauser.

[Tatume]

I hope you'll post a photo or two of the action when it arrives.

[sixgunner452]

I just got a PM from a well known member stating that the above mentioned barrel isn't suitable. My memory served me incorrectly stating in post #28 ".920'' SR Mauser barrel shank". He correctly stated "SR Mauser thread shanks are .980''. The blank in question is only .950''. No bueno, Randy.

[kens]

Watch Midway USA.com for mauser barrels. I got 2 of them, occasionally they go on sale.
I got a large ring .35whelen barrel for <100$
I also got a smallring Shilen 35rem barrel for <200$
it takes time to wait for those prices though

[sixgunner452]

Yes Sir, it does. Patience is a virtue I lack. I will try to hold off till Memorial day. After that all bets are off. Also talked to my FFL, Mauser is running late. Hopefully tomorrow I will see what I got. Randy.

[ulav8r]

Sir, that is all the info I was provided. My main question I suppose is if the " Shank measures .950" diameter x 1-1/2" long " would be enough material for the .920 threads on the small ring Mauser.

Yes, I gave you only a partial answer. It has been quite a while since I looked at the specs of the thread for the small rings. If the shoulder was long enough, you could remove the existing shank and recut the chamber if the bore specs are correct for the desired cartridge.

[john.k]

With reference to #26,how can a .950 dia shank have a 27mmx2mm thread.....anyhoo,i suspect that is a soft conversion of 12 tpi,but if the barrel is made of a mild steel,its unsuitable for high pressure anyway.

[am44mag]

You guys got my curiosity peaked. At that price, I'm seriously thinking about getting one or two of these actions. I wouldn't mind one in 35-300 Savage if possible. If not, I'd probably stick with either 7x57 or maybe go for one in .300 savage, .257 Roberts or .250 Savage.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, while we are on the subject of the Mauser parts kit. The lady I spoke to on the phone stated the firing pin had been shortened? Anyone have experience?
#1 why? #2 Can it be welded/lengthened? #3 Do I nee a new firing pin? Many thanks, Randy.

[sixgunner452]

am44, I noticed there was another vendor, J&G sales that had 1916 Spanish 7x57 Mausers for $119.00 Complete. They said a few parts were missing, but had a stock. Listed under gunsmith specials. Randy.

[Texas by God]

The shortened firing pin will need to be replaced. An easy way to make a wall hanger is what they were after I guess.

[Moleman-]

I've seen some mauser firing pins that have been repaired by soldering in a new piece on the tip and reshaping it. Shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement pin and certainly no worth the trouble to repair the old one unless you just want to. Springfield sporters has them for $22 http://www.ssporters.com/product-p/1410-14.htm
Liberty tree has them for $30 https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1318&idcategory=50 or evilbay https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAUSER-93-95-RIFLE-FIRING-PIN-only-one/132615653450?hash=item1ee082484a:g:sKgAAOSwUWpa8co l

Make sure to check the firing pin protrusion before firing it. Love to see pictures of the actual condition when it comes in. A couple cheap actions laying around the shop waiting for a project aren't a bad thing. A DWM 93 mauser in 7x57 was my first deer rifle.

[sixgunner452]

Moleman-, thanks for the info on firing pins. Yes, I agree having a couple spare Mauser's ain't all that bad. I will take a couple pics when I receive said Mauser.

[500Linebaughbuck]

i like the 9.3x57.

[RustyReel]

i like the 9.3x57.

I like sporterized Mausers (and other military rifles) and I have a bunch of them. So not bad mouthin' the project. Most of mine were done by someone else, both commercially and by individuals. I think these "cheap" small rings (already about $100 by the time you add in shipping, transfer and a new firing pin) are going to be a money pit. If you like to work on this kind of stuff as I do, that's fine, but there are tons of nicely sported rifles out there that have been neglected that need to be refreshed. Just my opinion.

As far as the 9.3x57 is concerned you can go to Simpson's and get a pretty nice one for about $300, small ring commercial Swedish Husqvarna rifle that will certainly keep its value. Again, just my opinion...

[JoeJames]

I did a little checking. Looks like the Model 1916 is a later variant of the 1893 Spanish Mauser. Small ring like the 93, but with turned down bolt handle, and gas holes bored. Sorry, but it sure does not look like a 98 action. I had a 93 about 50 years ago, and it was a decent shooter in 7X57. Back then there was not much 7mm available at least in the Ozarks, but I bought a box of I think it was Remington UMC 7mm Mauser ammo. Wish I'd kept the box; it would probably be a collector now. Looking back, I think it was possibly Mexican Civil War (1912) issue, and was somewhat indifferent as to working properly. Sometimes it would go bang, and sometimes it would go bang and the case would split a little bit down near the case head.

[Uncle Grinch]

I too have had quite a few 93 and 95 Mausers in various configurations. My first cost me $15 back in 1967 or 68.i put $200 in that rifle and traded it for a new Rem 700 ADL in 6mm Rem, which I still have. Never could pass up a deal on Mausers, be it SR or LR. Had 7mm and 308 Win versions.

I just had a nice 35 Rem on a 93 Mauser returned to me yesterday from my gunsmith. Will put it in a Mannlicher stock shortly.

[Texas by God]

My first Mauser was an Interarms "sporter" 1893 Spanish 7x57mm. I bought it at White's Auto in 1973 for $40. Compared to my 22-250 it was a shotgun. I did not know about oversize bores as a kid.

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[sixgunner452]

I received the Mauser from FFL It indeed was a small ring Spanish Mauser. One of the 1893's converted. Had turned down handle too, and parts kit. Pretty much complete minus stock. Heavy rust and pits on outside of barrel. Haven't checked inside yet. Not too hopeful. Will try to get a couple pics. Randy.

[sixgunner452]

Well guys, here it is. Not much to look at.220310 220311 . Randy

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, also.will a 91 Argentine stock fit a 93/1916 Spanish Mauser? Thanks, Randy.

[RustyReel]

Randy. So, what was the "parts kit"?

Re: 91 Argentine stock. Not saying it can't be done but the '91 has a single stack magazine what hangs below the stock line. If it would work you would have to do a lot of inletting for the '93 trigger guard. Best to wait until you can find one for the '93.

[sixgunner452]

Thank you RustyReel, about the magazine info. The parts kit hasn't been opened yet, I can tell that it has the bottom metal, screws, etc. Suppose to be rest of gun; minus stock. Bolt, trigger assy was already installed in gun. Randy.

[RustyReel]

From your pic it looks to be missing the extractor as well, hope one is in the bag!!

Someone above pointed you to Richards Microfit. Many will disagree, but I have used several of their stocks off their bargain/closeout list with very good results. Some nice wood for the $$. Just checked and I don't see any on that list for the SR Mauser but you may want to bookmark it and check it every few weeks for an update.....or possibly call and ask (I've never done that). Depending on what it is, it should require minimal work to fit but expect to spend a bit of time finishing the outside. You may also want to keep an eye on Boyds as they have their Rapid Fire thingy that sometimes has SR Mausers. and of course evilbay.

Anyway, my temptation to pick up a couple of these is waning ........Keep us posted...

[sixgunner452]

RustyReel, the extractor was in the bag. As well as screws, barrel bands, butt plate, etc. pretty much everything, except I am missing the screw, and I believe a spring for the lever that releases the bolt. Randy.

[kens]

when you look at the bolt face, does the firing pin hole look worn, or does it look like it fits firing pin snugly?
rust pits on the bolt face??

[sixgunner452]

kens, I finally got the safety to move. had to put in pan of boiling water to get 75 year old cosmoline running. I am far from an expert, but the firing pin hole looks ok to me. As far as firing pin protrusion. Not gonna happen. Firing pin was shortened prior to me recieveing. I guess they wanted this one to be a wall hanger. Here are a few picks. Randy220513.220514220515220516220517220518

Yea, the barrel is a little pitted. LOL. Reciever is pretty clean though. Randy.

[RustyReel]

Seems to be cleaning up much better that what I would have expected. What does the inside of the barrel look like??

[sixgunner452]

RustyReel, I had it soaking in peroxide for a couple days. Read that somewhere, Venturino, or Taffin. Scrubbed today Looks like the proverbial sewage drain. Could possibly shoot, has some rifling left. Gonna stew on it a while. Not gonna hold my breath. But yea, the action looks pretty good. Randy.

[Texas by God]

That action looks fine from here. Put the bolt in and feel for lug setback- if it's bad you can feel it.
Looks good enough to rebarrel if the original is shot- pun intended.

[sixgunner452]

Texas by God, that is my plan. Thanks, for the input. My last Mauser project was a Turk. I sent it out to a smith in Oregon. Might do the same again. Really would like to do more myself this time. Probably will parkerize it when completed. Been messing around with parkerizing a while now. Pretty easy actually. Cheap too. Can get everything you need at the Hardware store. What kind of equipment is needed to remove the barrel from the action? Specifically, what do you use to secure the action? I saw in one of your posts talking about barrel removal. Randy

[Buckshot]

Also, would 35 Remington be a suitable cartridge if I end up barrelling? Thanks, Randy.

http://www.fototime.com/AEC40C4BAA66E93/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/DA9985F72A3A411/standard.jpg


http://www.fototime.com/89E2F2C1A9E4DC7/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/8A4CCD7559D0176/standard.jpg

.............An FN made SR Mauser action (1894 Brazilian contract) barreled to 35 Rem. The maker of the stock is dis-recalled at the moment but was on sale for $39 :-) Front sight is a Rem 700 that was silver soldered on. No bolt, extractor, or ejector mods required. I did install a Timney trigger.

http://www.fototime.com/6F05348BF5C915A/standard.jpg

Targets @ 50 yards, using surplus WC846 and Saeco 200 gr cast.

I also barreled an additional action (as above) to 7.62x39 utilizing a pre-threaded/chambered bbl from GPC, and a partially inletted stock.

http://www.fototime.com/D2E4C83F030B2E5/standard.jpg

Same action as above. However, with this cartridge you'd have to have a magazine blocker, alterations to the follower, extractor & ejector simply due to the smaller overall dimensions of the cartridge.

...............Buckshot

[Texas by God]

Midway and Brownells have a good selection of barrel removal and installation tools. Buckshot's you need to build a new rifles and post up a thread as you do it LOL. Those are very cool guns!

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[sixgunner452]

Texas by God, I concur those are really cool guns. What Buckshot accomplished is about what I envision. Or Larry Gibson's 35X57 as well. Larry Gibson's 35X57 is a little more elaborate to produce but I should not have any feeding problems. I keep on hearing, 35 Rem feeding an a 93 action is iffy. Randy

[Texas by God]

That 35x57 is very interesting. As far as the .35 Rem feeding problems, I'm thinking minor if any. I rebarreled mine to 30-30 Win. Minor bolt face work and a stop on the mag follower is all it took for it to work. The 1916 Spanish 93 is the least expensive action available to play with nowadays. Map55b has some wonderful sporters he did as well. The most important tool is a full support action wrench so you can't twist the action when Senor Barrel doesn't want to divorce Senorita Action.

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[toallmy]

May I ask wile you gentlemen are taking about action wrenches what do you think of the wheeler engineering action wrench that midway USA offers for the small ring mauser action at 60. It seems reasonable if it works .

[RustyReel]

May I ask wile you gentlemen are taking about action wrenches what do you think of the wheeler engineering action wrench that midway USA offers for the small ring mauser action at 60. It seems reasonable if it works .

I have their action wrench and their barrel vise (the one that uses the wooden inserts). The action wrench is a pretty substantial piece of hardware and works well. The barrel vise is another matter with the wooden inserts being the problem. If I had it to do over again, I would not buy their barrel vise.

My experience has been that while you want an action wrench that fits the action without damaging it, the barrel is the part that slips and causes the most problems when trying to remove a barrel. Many of those old Mauser barrels are ON their pretty good!!

[fast ronnie]

I built a barrel vise from 2" thick steel blocks that clamp together with 5/8 fine thread bolts. I bored it oversize and make an aluminum sleeve that fits the barrel. I then split in two and sandwich the barrel in with 2 wraps of paper. I tighten tight using about an 18" wrench. I haven't had one slip yet, and have not scratched the bluing, either. I then clamp the block to my mill table.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, if a feller had 2 straps of steel (how thick of steel/is 2'' necessary) , and a pair of oak blocks with hole bored; for a action wrench. Could a big ole pipe wrench spin off a barrel? I realize I may need to cut/grind flats in the offending barrel. And I hear you are wise to oil-soak junction a couple days before attempting. Thanks, Randy.

[Moleman-]

My 1891 Mauser wrench is 3/4" thick, 1" would of been better but 3/4" was all I had at the time and it works fine. Ideally with any gun you want the clamping force of the wrench to be directly over the threads or you run the risk of twisting the action. Make the wrench thick enough to allow a piece of copper roof sheeting or aluminum can material between the wrench and receiver to protect the bluing. My barrel vises are 1.5" thick with turned and split aluminum bushing for different diameter barrels. Many barrels have been removed with a pipe wrench and that is fine as long as you realize it is going to chew up the barrel stub. If you're going to pitch the barrel out then the pipe wrench rash is of little concern. That will get your barrel off, to screw the new one on you'll want something that will not damage the finish. It can be something as simple as a couple of 4" wide steel plates about 6" long drilled and tapped for 1/2" or larger fine threaded bolts and a couple pieces of oak grooved/drilled to closely match the barrel profile. I used one like that for years and wrapped the barrels in two layers of duct tape to protect the finish. Duct tape will slip though if the torque is applied too slowly.

[flounderman]

You can use the Remington 700 barrels and rethread them to small ring, and the model 70, has been used, but some of the threads will have a groove from the Winchester threads. You can use the original chamber by using a washer the right thickness ahead of the receiver ring. I been doing this for years with the Turkish large ring, small thread Mausers.

[kens]

Midway has small ring 7x57 barrel on sale right now.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, if I watch my pressure; what about .358 Winchester? Real easy to make from 308. Will I have feeding issues though? Randy.

[Texas by God]

That would be just as safe as a 308 Winchester.

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[Larry Gibson]

The 358W can give feeding problems in the SR Mauser actions (M93 - M95) as they do not have the correct case taper, same as the .308W. I had a heck of a time getting my Oviedo M93 to reliably feed .308Ws if 3 or more rounds were in the magazine. Also there is the potential pressure problems with someone else who may acquire the rifle and load to full 358W pressures. That's the beauty of the 35x57 or 35x60.....there is no factory round. The 35 Whelen dies are very easy to alter.

For the 35x57 remove (easily done with a lathe) .255" from the bottom of FL, NS and seating 35 Whelen dies. Lightly chamfer and polish the inside edge and its done. If cases are formed from 30-06 or 35 Whelen cases the use of an 8x57 form die to initially form the case and cut of excess is recommended. Easiest for the 35x57 is simply to use 8x57 cases. I just lube the inside of the neck for easier expansion over the expander ball (I'm using standard RCBS 35 Whelen dies) and FL size. Three formed cases are then used to headspace the chamber (using a 35 Whelen finish reamer). When done your 35x57 is a custom fit to your formed cases and no fire forming is needed.

220713

Here is the 35 Whelen, the 35x60 and the 35x57 cases (left to right).

220714

[john.k]

Since the 93 barrel seats on the front of the action ring,its a natural for a relief cut in the old barrel........even if you might get $20 for a usable 7mm barrel,its not worth risking the reciever for that.....

[Texas by God]

Since the 93 barrel seats on the front of the action ring,its a natural for a relief cut in the old barrel........even if you might get $20 for a usable 7mm barrel,its not worth risking the reciever for that.....
I second that. Bad barrels become pry bars or cool baby sledgehammer handles. That relief cut is key to getting that rotten old barrel off.

[kens]

I did a M95 in 35Rem, and had to twiddle with the feeding. Then thought about the other .35 wildcats,,,,,

I still think this is gonna be hard to beat.....
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/641107/green-mountain-barrel-mauser-series-2-7x57mm-mauser-7mm-mauser-f14-contour-1-in-9-1-2-twist-21-chrome-moly-in-the-white

[roverboy]

Kens, I've actually never used a Green Mtn. barrel but, have heard good things about them.

[Texas by God]

That would be perfect.

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[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, still weighing options. but, you got the wheels turning. I'm really stuck on a 35 cal. Can anyone tell me why I should go 7X57 instead. Besides price of conversion of course. Randy.

[Texas by God]

I once saw-not closely- a Mauser 93 with a Marlin .35 Rem barrel installed. Another option.

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[Texas by God]

Or get ER Shaw to supply a barrel in .35 Rem- then do the 35x57 thing. Only downside there is weight. Heavy Sporter is the lightest Contour they will do in 35 caliber.

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[sixgunner452]

Midway has a 35 Whelen blank for a LR Mauser. Thinking about having shank turned down and threaded for a SR Mauser. Then having a couple threads removed. And finally rechamber to a 35X57 with a 35 Whelan finish reamer.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/546547/green-mountain-barrel-mauser-series-3-35-whelen-f34-contour-1-in-14-twist-24-chrome-moly-in-the-white

Talking it over with my "smith".

[Texas by God]

I think you will be happiest going that route. The 35 caliber is very hard to beat as a cast bullet rifle in my opinion.

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[kens]

Midway has a 35 Whelen blank for a LR Mauser. Thinking about having shank turned down and threaded for a SR Mauser. Then having a couple threads removed. And finally rechamber to a 35X57 with a 35 Whelan finish reamer.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/546547/green-mountain-barrel-mauser-series-3-35-whelen-f34-contour-1-in-14-twist-24-chrome-moly-in-the-white

Talking it over with my "smith".

I believe Larry Gibson has advocated almost exactly that. I think you can turn LR 35whelen down to SR threads, shorten the butt end, retain the 35 whelen neck/shoulder, and you can have a .35x57. If your 'smith is careful enough with the measurements, I think you do not need any reamer. and you can keep the long neck of the '06 case.

[sixgunner452]

kens, That is an excellent idea. Randy.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, I finally got the barrel off. I cut a relief like Ya'll suggested. Spun right off. Easy-peazy. Bolt set-back looked pretty good to me. Now to lap the boly lugs in. Randy.220805 220806

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, I finally did it. I ponied up, and ordered the LR Mauser, 35 Whelan pre-chambered barrel blank. I always say; if your gonna be a bear, be a Grizzly.

Talked to my "Smith". Says removing about a 1/4'' from breach end, rethreading to SR Mauser specs shouldn't be an issue. He is gonna supply a barrel nut like a Savage barrel system. Should be easily head spaced by me when I receive.

I also am gonna mail him a set of 35 Whelen dies that he will shorten 1/4'' so I can size and form the 35X57 cases. Will update progress. Randy.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, I know it's not much to you Pro's. But, I lapped my bolt lugs into the receiver tonight. Bolt nums did not match receiver. Started out with approx 10-15 % on lugs. Ended in the high 90's. Kinda cool. Probably took 30 mins.

Then I lapped the barrel/receiver threads. Just put lapping compound on the barrel stub. And twist, twist, twist. Probably about a 5 min job. I couldn't believe how short a time it took. Originally the threads were heavily rusted. Spins on all the way home by hand now.

Also found out lapping compound is easily removed with brake cleaner.

I'm pretty much at a stand-still till I get parts back from Machinist. Randy

[sixgunner452]

I have had a lot of irons in the fire so, I had to shelve my project for a while. Today I decided to work on my project. I took a few pics of me parkerizing a few Mauser parts.

I decided to fire up my Parkerizing pot. I know. Real sophisticated! I have used Steel, and stainless “Menudo/Caldo type” pots in the past. Some people claim stainless pots are unacceptable, but have worked just fine for me.

A slow-cooker seems to work just as good, and it was cheap at the Salvation Army Store too.

The creepy looking stuff floating in my pot is steel wool biscuits. The recipe calls for iron filings. I have always used steel wool.
223183
Pics of parts soaking/washing in TSP solution. In the past I always used brake cleaner/Dawn soap. It has always worked fine, but I read TSP worked too, and it's cheaper than Brake cleaner.
223184
Pics of parts after 20 minute pickle/Park bath. 2 coats of oil. I will give several coats of oil over the next couple of days. In my experience , parts will soak oil like a sponge for a couple of days.
223185
223186
In my experience, this has been an attractive, perfectly serviceable firearm finish. It resembles arsenal finished weapons, and has been just as tough of a finish too.

Now I just need to get my barrel. My "smith" mailed it a couple days ago. Then I can install new barrel. God Bless, Randy.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, for any interested ,,This is Zink-phosphate parkerizing, as apposed to manganese/phosphate park. I have always used cut, or drilled new mfg pennies for the zink. I actually ordered a lb of manganese off an Ebay vendor. It supposedly makes a more "black Parke" finish. It did not in my experience. I even tried zink-manganese-phosphate combo. Came out the same. Might be, me mixing my own chemicals as apposed to using a commercial "Brownells" type blend. Can't be helped. I am cheap. Randy.

[Moleman-]

Good Job! I prefer manganese over zinc parkerizing so unless I'm doing a U.S.A. WWII gun it gets manganese. Tried several brands, even got manganese from a pottery place and made my own. Best/most economical one is Palmetto brand. Been using it at least 20 years although there were a couple years the owner stopped advertising 10 years ago or so. Eventually his son took over the business. It lasts for years if you don't let it freeze and keep it in a closed non reactive container. I only boil the parts in tsp if there is a chance they have some hidden oil/grease in them. Otherwise they go in a clean oil drain pan with some laquer thinner and get brushed off with a chip brush before going in the solution. You can also take the parts out of the solution and quickly dip them in water to prevent iron streaking so you can inspect them. If good, then spray off with WD40 or put them back in the park tank.

[sixgunner452]

Moleman-, that is some good info. I de-greased with TSP because I knew the media used was less than pristine. Also a friend of mine blasted it at work. I had it sitting in WD-40 for about a week. So the oil had to be removed. Randy.

[nekshot]

very interesting. How do you do the barrels? What type container for that?

[sixgunner452]

My smith parked it for me. In the past I made a tank from 4" pvc, capped on the end. I never made a heated tank. Some do. I just poured in heated mix. Then dipped barrel. It stayed hot long enough to parkerize. Only takes 15 to 20 mins. Randy.

[Moleman-]

I degrease before abrasive blasting anything that goes in the cabinet. That's not always possible and you're right if contamination is an issue boiling with TSP will help. If the parts are greasy you run the risk of peening grease into pockets which can mess up your surface.

Been using the same basic setup since the 90's. Frame made out of angle iron (old bed frame) 4"x4.5"x30" SS pan made at a boat prop repair place. Gas pipe with holes drilled for the flame holes and regulator. First regulator was from a grill we were throwing out but have since replaced it with an adjustable one. Either one worked fine. About the only thing I'd do differently would be to put a drain valve in it, but that's a minor thing. There's a 10" and 16.5" ar15 barrel in the tank in the pic. The barrel extensions are teflon coated and don't darken up. Put a fired case in the chamber end, wood dowel in the muzzle end and generally put them gas port down and a tooth pick in the port. Anything you want to mask off for blasting or parkerizing can be done with electrical tape. If you should ever get any oil in the park tank, lay a sheet of paper towel on top which will soak up some solution but will also get the oil. Otherwise most guys will tell you to throw out the solution and start over. If the solution starts taking longer to make the parts black or the parts are coming out lighter, you can add a couple ounces more concentrate. It's also best done outside with you up wind. I generally do mine just inside the pole barn with the roll up door open and a fan behind me. You can see in the pic the line where the inside of the barn floor is painted and the outside is gray where the door shuts.

[sixgunner452]

Moleman- that's a slick setup. I whole heatedly agree with the blasting any parts to be parked. My first go-round I wanted to do it as basic as possible. I have read sometimes at the arsenal they would sand-paper parts before parking. I tried that on a MK II pistol. I ended up having to tear it down a couple years later because I was unable to get the rust out of the pits by just sanding. I hear you can chemically strip to get all the rust. But a clean even surface looks the best. Randy.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, I got my barrel in from my "smith". I am impressed with his work. I included a couple pics. You can see the huge difference between my zink-phosphate park, compared to his Manganes-phosphate park finish.

223366223367
Oh, and he is a pro. I am a hobby enthusiast at best. Randy.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, I really like the black-manganes-phosphate finish better than my home brewed mix. I will try to headspace tomorrow. I already have it rough-headspaced. Tomorrow I will lock the Savage type nut down tight. You can see the nut, it is the bulge at the ft of action. Wish me luck. Randy.

[kens]

Gentlemen, I really like the black-manganes-phosphate finish better than my home brewed mix. I will try to headspace tomorrow. I already have it rough-headspaced. Tomorrow I will lock the Savage type nut down tight. You can see the nut, it is the bulge at the ft of action. Wish me luck. Randy.

Well I'll wish you luck.
That's a fine build.
I got a small ring in 35 remington with ghost ring sight.
you going in .35 x 57mm, right??

[sixgunner452]

Yes Sir. My smith shortened a 35 Whelen barrel, and a set of 35 Whelen dies .25'' for me. Thanks for the compliment. It ain't gonna be the prettiest custom Mauser, but it's all mine.

[Texas by God]

Numrich has oil finished sporter stocks reasonably priced. I used one on a .300 Savage 98/22 and it refinished nice. However they are birch, not walnut. They do have them for SR actions.
I'm watching your project closely; fun,fun.

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[sixgunner452]

Texas by God, I have a black synthetic stock I got off another forum member. He also sold me a Williams peep sight. Got a good deal too. The forum members here are pretty cool. Randy.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, been a while since I posted. I've made some progress. I installed my barrel. Fit my stock to my action/bottom metal.

Here are a few pics. First pic is from the business end.
223720223721223722223723223724

I've been working on my factory trigger. I installed a set screw in the spring cup for an over travel. Larry Gibson has been schooling me. I have the factory trigger down to 3.5 lbs too.

I installed a Williams peep for the rear. I had an old Rem 700 ramp I "black max" glued to the front of barrel.

I still need to bore sight my sights. then I have to make some brass, and work a couple loads. Randy.

[Texas by God]

Looking good, Randy.

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[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, I received something from my gunsmith. I like simple, effective solutions. I believe this qualifies

223990

I trim with Lee case trimmers. They do not make one for 35x57 Mauser. My smith made a brass bushing for an 8x57 Mauser. Randy.

[woodbutcher]

:grin: Very nice sir.Thanks for posting.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[sixgunner452]

woodbutcher, not a problem. Glad to oblige. I've been a long time lurker here. Never posted much. Hope someone learns from my mistakes. So far this builds been alot of fun. I just need to finish it up. And in the end it's all "mine". Never find one like it on a rack. Randy.

[ajjohns]

This comes at a good time. I'm working on a small ring 95, converting to 35 Rem. Spun the 7mm barrel off and cleaning things up right now. D&T the receiver today, going to check fit with the new barrel. I went with a Rhineland arms barrel using the Savage style lock ring. I'm hoping to get to use it for deer this fall. The featured gun here is a dandy, so are all of them in this thread.

[GregLaROCHE]

You might consider 6.5x55 se. That light action was originally used for 6.5x55se. It’s not a 308, but very accurate and flat shooting. Perfect for deer. It’s very popular in Europe and gaining popularity in the U.S.

[nekshot]

another one bites the dust!

[Uncle Grinch]

The majority of my rifles are Mausers, some commercial and a good number military, both sporterized and original. I respect any original condition Mauser, but love to customize these milsurps.

Seeing threads like this get my interest, especially when it’s done by the owner. Keep the pictures coming!

[leadman]

The 6.5X55 cases are a little fatter than the 7X57 or 30-06 based cases so they might not set quite right in the magazine of a '93 or newer non Swede rifle. They do work fine in the single stack 91 magazine. If need be the mag follower can be modified easily so they set properly. I noticed this when trying the 6.5X55 cases in a 95 Mauser I have.
We need a shooting report on this project! LOL.

[Texas by God]

I concur, Uncle G. When I was young I had a 3 rifle Mauser 98 battery, all customized by me. I had a VZ24 .22-250, a BRNO K98 in 8x57, and an Amberg G98 in .358 Norma. I was covered. I love these threads too.

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[ajjohns]

234931

I'm happy with how mine turned out. It's a keeper. I haven't had a lot of time to do much 35 Rem loading this winter but it'll come.

[Texas by God]

234931

I'm happy with how mine turned out. It's a keeper. I haven't had a lot of time to do much 35 Rem loading this winter but it'll come.Is that one of the champion synthetic stocks? How do you like it?
Perfect scope by the way!
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[cwlongshot]

I concur, Uncle G. When I was young I had a 3 rifle Mauser 98 battery, all customized by me. I had a VZ24 .22-250, a BRNO K98 in 8x57, and an Amberg G98 in .358 Norma. I was covered. I love these threads too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk Any further information on this one ya care to share? :)

I have wanted this one for about ten years... finally got off my **** last year when I bought a Interarms MARK X as a donor action.

CW

[Texas by God]

Sure, IMHO the best 06 length belted mag ever. My brother bought it as a .35 Whelen Imp and had Lou Williamson in Hurst to rechamber it and modify the action. We traded it back and forth till it got away unfortunately. .35 Rem to almost .375 H&H loads and we didn't even shoot cast back then. The last I heard of it it had been rebarreled to .300 Win mag[emoji849]

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[ajjohns]

Texas, I think it is that brand of stock? Same as the clay target company I think? It is what it is for 80 bucks but has rubber grip inserts, sling eyes, and recoil pad. It's a little flimsy in the forearm but so far so good. Took a little inletting but not a whole bunch, shoots nice anyway. The scope was a trade, I think I did ok.

[Texas by God]

That's the only stock available afaik for an all weather SR Mauser rifle. That and Dura Coat or Cerakote and you're ready for whatever!

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[sixgunner452]

Fellers, been gone a while I know. I thought I would resurrect this thread. I kinda fell off the face of the earth for a while. Well, here goes...... I finally got around to loading a few rounds of ammo for my 35X57 Mauser build on a SM 93 Mauser.

The test ammo was Pri 8X57 brass that has been reformed in my custom/shortened 35 Whelan dies. The boolit is the RCBS clone/Lee 200 gr FN gas checked about 210 grains. The cases were primed with LR Wolf primers, then charged with 30 grains IMR 4895. I know this isn't a hot load. From what I read on this forum a lot of guys just load 16 grs of 2400, and call it good.

Secured my weapon in my “custom” rifle vise, tied a string to the trigger and tugged. Everything went well, still had all my digits. So I extracted the case. Extracted easy no damage noticed. Primers looked OK. So I fired another round. Same again.

Now here is where I need the help from the experts. I enclosed a couple pictures, one unfired loaded round and 2 fired cases. Does everything look OK to you guys?
249302 and here 249303

I have zero experience chambering rifles, other than setting head-space timing on crew served weapons in the Army. My Mauser is very similar having the Savage barrel nut system. I used the "3 new case method" as described by a well known member from this board. Thanks, Larry for all your help.

I hope to get to the local Rod n Gun range soon. I will include groups and pics. Thank you to everyone for all your assistance in this project Randy.



That's the only stock available afaik for an all weather SR Mauser rifle. That and Dura Coat or Cerakote and you're ready for whatever!

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[Uncle Grinch]

Six gunner, looks like you did good. It ready for deer season now! Here is a picture of my 35 Rem built on a 93 action....

249308

[sixgunner452]

Uncle Grinch. Thats a nice rifle. Really like the stock. What kind?

[swheeler]

UG that is sweet little pointer! Great American Gunstocks semi inletted?

[Texas by God]

The first Mauser I rebarreled was tested by tying the barreled action to a offset disc plow and firing with a string while hiding behind the back tire of the tractor[emoji16]. The brass looks good to me, congrats! That will be a neat gun.

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[sixgunner452]

Texas by God, thanks for the input. That's what I was hoping 2 hear. By the way, I appreciate the help you gave me along the way with the build. I guess re-barreling an action is possible in your shed. With the right instructions of course. At least possible with no special tools if ya have a Savage type barrel assy. Randy.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, I have another update. I finally made it to the local Rod n Gun here in El Paso. I tried a lot of different loads. All shot at 25 yards. I will try longer ranges at the next outing.

All rounds fired were with the Lee 200 gr FP bullet.

The first firing string is 9.0. 10.0, 11.0, and 12.0 grains of 700X, gas checked. You can see the shots walking249599 their way up the ladder. It really liked the 12.0 grs of 700X. Sights uncorrected.

The next string is 9.0 grains of Reddot and 10.0 grs of Reddot, Plainbase. 249600 Sights corrected.

The next string fired was 27.0 gr 4895 and 28.0 grs 4895, gas checked. 249601 Sights uncorrected.

Final string is 30 gr 4895, gas checked, sights corrected249602
Best part is not a hint of lead. Reddot loads were PB as cast. Gas checked loads sized .358.

Also, I'm a little bit fuzzy today. To raise your point of aim do you need to lower your front sight. I had to adjust the rear a little more than I"m comfortable with. Not happy with how high up the rear sight is.

Thanks to all involved. Randy

P.S. How bout them Sooners.

[Texas by God]

You’ll need a lower dovetail sight for that 700 ramp so you can lower the rear sight.

[sixgunner452]

Texas by God, thanks for the reply. That"s exactly what I was hoping for. Time to break out the file. Randy.

[Uncle Grinch]

UG that is sweet little pointer! Great American Gunstocks semi inletted?

It was made by “inthe10ring” over on mausercentral.net. He is a one man operation and does a great job.

[swheeler]

UG: I like the islands, swept back grip and looks to have just right drop for open sights,the man has a good pattern.
sixgunner452: yes lower front sight, if you can't get "there" then a new lower front sight ramp may be in order.

[sixgunner452]

Uncle Grinch, that is a sweet stock Randy.

[sixgunner452]

swheeler, thank you for the comments. yes, you may be right, I don;t have a lot of ft sight to work with. Kinda short already. Gotta try though. Thanks a bunch. Randy.

[nun2kute]

I not sure if you guy's are helping me scratch my "itch" or making it worse :wink:

[David2011]

The 6.5X55 cases are a little fatter than the 7X57 or 30-06 based cases so they might not set quite right in the magazine of a '93 or newer non Swede rifle. They do work fine in the single stack 91 magazine. If need be the mag follower can be modified easily so they set properly. I noticed this when trying the 6.5X55 cases in a 95 Mauser I have.
We need a shooting report on this project! LOL.

Sorry; I just saw this a year later. Correct spec 6.5x55 cases are as you described but American cases from Remington have a .308 case head. The web area is still full 6.5x55 diameter. I converted a Yugo 48 to 6.5x55 and liked the way the Remington cases fit better than European cases.