Anyone cast for 7.62x25 Tokerev?

[44Blam]

I've got a CZ-52. It's a great gun that shoots straight - I've got no problem hitting 3" clays at 50 yards with factory rounds. And you can stretch to 100 yards if you don't mind blowing through some ammo. ;)
Anyway, I want to start playing with some loads for it to really dial that gun in.
I've got a mould from Accurate that is the 31-087B. My plan is to cast fairly hard boolits, powder coat them and resize to .314...
For loads, I have alliant 2400 and unique that are at least semi appropriate powders... I was thinking of laddering up a 2400 load maybe from 8 grn to 10 or 11 grn and try to find one I really like.

Anyone have any experience/advice?

[Grmps]

I use the 311-93-1R LEE-6 apr 15 bhn over BE

makarov.com has load data for 2400 and unique

I am working up a load using 113grn boolit and TB

[Thin Man]

The mold I use for these boolits is very similar to yours, only in RN configuration. Mine is an Ohaus 32-085 R that is a 3 cavity pattern. It casts heavy with WW alloy so I use Linotype to make 87 grain boolits. These will clean up at .311" and I use them in 30 Luger, 30 (7.63x25 mm) Mauser and 7.62x25 mm Tokarev. These boolits will group as well as any jacketed loading. In the Mauser loads I ran 6.5 grains Unique for reliable and accurate loads, then again a bit higher with the Tokarev but this may be a good starting point for your CZ-52, then working up carefully at the pistol indicates.

[GhostHawk]

I like the Lee .314 90 gr TL truncated cone in my Cz-52. Over light charges of Red Dot.

With other bullets I always ran into chambering problems. But the truncated cone seems to dodge all that.

Then I found a good deal on PPU hollow point factory loads, bought 250 rounds and called it good.
So I have reloads that work, and plenty of ammo for her. So she has been ignored for the last few years. Probably time to take her out for a workout again.

[Dan Cash]

I am using an Accurate mould that is speced at 105 grains for my C96 Mauser and CZ52 as well as .32-20. It is a bit heavy for the 7.62 as some bullet protrudes below the case neck but accuracy is ok. The bullets are cast relatively soft, slightly softer than old wheelweight metal and sized to .311. That seems to work well in all cartridges. 6 grains Unique is used in the 7.62 for about 1300 fps and 9 - 9 1/2 grains of 2400 in the .32-20 for 1250 from a revolver. 2400 might be good for the CZ52 but have not tried it. I worked up the Unique charge to the point it would reliably function my Mauser with new springs and found that load to work in the CZ as well.

[Outpost75]

I use the Accurate 31-087B in my CZ52 and also in my TT33. Here is my load data:

Velocity Test Data for 7.62x25 in TT33 Pistol
Handloads in Starline cases with CCI500 primers
Ammunition Description___________Vel@15ft., Sd, ES n=10
____________________________________TT33, 4.6” bbl.
Romanian Type P Ball, Factory 22, 1984____1461 fps, 27 Sd, 76ES
Yugoslav PPU Ball,_____________________1310, 26 Sd, 66ES
Hornady 86-grain SP, 7.4 grs. AutoComp___1353, 20, 71
Accurate 31-100T, 7.4 grs. AutoComp_____1450, 16, 50
Accurate 31-087B, 5.3 grs. Bullseye_______1433, 28, 71
Accurate 31-087B, 10.8 grs. #2400_______1321, 11, 32
Norma 93-gr. FMJ .307”, 10.8 grs. #2400__1277, 18, 44

[44Blam]

Great information! Thank you!
I'll post up my adventure into reloading for this old war-horse. :)

[Cowboy_Dan]

I've loaded my Yugo TT with the Lyman 313249 and the Mihec 314-98 SWC with good accuracy. The SWC cut a clean hole through the broken skillet I found on the berm. I also want to try the NOE 315-89 WC as my pistol will feed an empty case.

[GooseGestapo]

My GI M1 Carbine shoots better with either the Lee 93gr RN or 100gr RN than FMJ ball.
I’m powder coating and using #2400. Running ~2,000fps.
Either should work well in the 7.62x25, as well as #2400.

[rbuck351]

I have a CZ52 and a Russian Tok. Neither will accept a .314 boolit without turning the necks but both need .314 to fill the grooves.

[Outpost75]

I have a CZ52 and a Russian Tok. Neither will accept a .314 boolit without turning the necks but both need .314 to fill the grooves.

This observation is very common, especially in the Chicom and Yugo pistols.

Neither my 1954 Cz52 nor my 1952 Polish TT will accept larger than a .311" bullet, but both shoot accurately with cast ones sized to that diameter.

[44Blam]

Whelp, I finally got around to testing my CZ. Sure enough, it will not chamber .314. I've got a .311 sizing die on the way, so I'll resize to .311 and try again. :) Then we have to see if it shoots straight and what loads does it like? :) And that's what makes this all fun. :D

[mac60]

Whelp, I finally got around to testing my CZ. Sure enough, it will not chamber .314. I've got a .311 sizing die on the way, so I'll resize to .311 and try again. :) Then we have to see if it shoots straight and what loads does it like? :) And that's what makes this all fun. :D

I have to size down to .309" to get reliability. I use the Lee 311-93-1R and the best results I have gotten so far were with Blue Dot powder. My brass is formed from 5.56. Shooting a Romanian Tokarev.

[TaylorS]

7.62 tok from 5.56🧐? looks like I need to make some brass[emoji48].


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[AlexAkai]

I am working on using an Ideal 3118 round to see if I can make it work for my needs, the youtube gun video banning is getting out of hand (Bloke on the Range got banned, but he is back for now) but I found a video of a guy working with CFE pistol and it appears to have good velocity numbers, so I am going to try it with powder coated cast rounds and see how it does.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRRQV5iDuSE

[mac60]

7.62 tok from 5.56��? looks like I need to make some brass[emoji48].


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Since I had a bunch of 5.56 brass and see it laying all over the range whenever I go, I was determined that I wasn't going to pay good money for something I could make myself. I did it the hard way, but there is a guy "vonzep" I believe that makes a little gizmo to use with the little h/f chop saw to rough cut 5.56/.223 brass, which just simplifies the whole process. All in all it requires a good bit of "busy work" - cutting the brass, thinning the neck etc... It made for a fine little project for one day when I didn't have anything better to do.

[44Blam]

Today, I pushed a .314 boolit through the barrel and it looks like my grooves are .310 maybe .309... I sized a couple rounds to .311 and they chamber properly.
So, I'll size to .311 for my testing.
Next up, ladder 2400 and find my accurate round. :) Will post up a range report.

[fivefang]

.$$ Blam, today I shot a modified 90gr. Lee TL, PC, & PB-GC over11.0gr. of Alliant #2400bullets were sized in Saeco .313" die after PC, GC installed at same time, & also loaded 20 rnds. of Hornady .309" JHP same charge, had to use 2 different case neck expanders one .311" & . 307"for JHP, casings were of my 5.56 alterations, Ginex SRP. , these were shot in a M57 ,Zastava/Tokarev, I shot a lot with 12.5gr. of WC820 which cycled the Tok. properly the 11.0 gr of #2400, barely cycled the Tok. Fivefang

[44Blam]

.$$ Blam, today I shot a modified 90gr. Lee TL, PC, & PB-GC over11.0gr. of Alliant #2400bullets were sized in Saeco .313" die after PC, GC installed at same time, & also loaded 20 rnds. of Hornady .309" JHP same charge, had to use 2 different case neck expanders one .311" & . 307"for JHP, casings were of my 5.56 alterations, Ginex SRP. , these were shot in a M57 ,Zastava/Tokarev, I shot a lot with 12.5gr. of WC820 which cycled the Tok. properly the 11.0 gr of #2400, barely cycled the Tok. Fivefang
I do have a lot of W296 - which should be similar to WC820, right? I'll make sure to load some of those...
BUT the important question that I have is... How do you turn 5.56/.223 rem cases to 7.62x25? I can get 1000's of the .223s for free!!! ;)

[Grmps]

Good video, I use this method but use a "n" reamer instead of the 2 drill bits and the worlds cheapest trimmer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlAFF79us8U

[WRideout]

I shoot the Lee 100 gr round nose in my Romanian Tok. They are generally cast from range scrap with added tin, sized .311 and lubed with Ben's Liquid Lube (BLL). Tried several different powder combinations but finally settled on 6.0 gr Unique. Since it is bottle-necked and headspaces on the shoulder, it needs a pretty good roll crimp. It is very fussy about crimp; too much or too little and it won't chamber reliably. Any more, I do the "plunk" test before I box up my ammo (you know, pull the barrel and drop in a cartridge to see if it goes in all the way.)

On days when I don't have adequate frustration in my life, I make cases from .223. I use an old Wilson hand-crank case trimmer to bring them to final length, and it is tedious to say the least.

Wayne

[44Blam]

Oh man... That's awesome.
My buddies are gonna trip when I show up to the combat shootin' comp with my CZ and a pocket full of old .223 brass shaped into little bottle neck boolits.

[GhostHawk]

Been there done that.

I have a baggie full of .223 blank ammo, yeah still live. Good for nothing else. Trimming to length removes the crimped portion at the end. I suspect it was slightly thinner brass. I did not do much in the way of trimming/reaming/neck turning.

Chamfer tool after sizing to clean up burrs.

I did persist until I was able to get good function. I believe the right bullet makes a huge difference.

Then about the time I had it all working I found a sale on PPU ammo, HP's. Put my fired brass in a baggie, have some 75 rounds of homemade ammo for range practice. And a nice pile of factory loads if I ever need it. And that was the end of that trail for me. There are other calibers that are easier to work with, more rewarding. .32sw long recently has been a lot of fun.

But I have to admit, I love the Cz-52. It sits below my left elbow where I sit in my recliner, between the recliner and my table. It is ALWAYS loaded with one in the chamber, on safe with hammer cocked. If I need it all I need to do is flick the safety and go to. There are also about 6 knives and a tomahawk all within reach. Not counting the razor hidden in my lap table.

No I'm not paranoid. I don't think anyone is out to get me. And as long as I am always ready, I'll probably never have to use any of it.

But if your not ready, ol Murphy will get ya.

[WRideout]

Been there done that.

But I have to admit, I love the Cz-52. It sits below my left elbow where I sit in my recliner, between the recliner and my table. It is ALWAYS loaded with one in the chamber, on safe with hammer cocked. If I need it all I need to do is flick the safety and go to. There are also about 6 knives and a tomahawk all within reach. Not counting the razor hidden in my lap table.

No I'm not paranoid. I don't think anyone is out to get me. And as long as I am always ready, I'll probably never have to use any of it.

But if your not ready, ol Murphy will get ya.

My Romanian Tok came with the "import" aftermarket safety on it, which rendered the gun inoperable. I followed the conventional wisdom and took it out. I am now left with a functional pistol that has a big dirt-catching hole in the frame. Win some, lose some.

If I had to carry it routinely, I would leave the chamber empty, and charge it upon drawing, just like they told us in the army for our .45 Government Models.

Wayne

[GhostHawk]

Agree, with a pistol with an not functioning safety, only safe way is on an empty chamber.

Or you could figure out why it did not work and fix it. Grin Or not.

[44Blam]

My Romanian Tok came with the "import" aftermarket safety on it, which rendered the gun inoperable. I followed the conventional wisdom and took it out. I am now left with a functional pistol that has a big dirt-catching hole in the frame. Win some, lose some.

If I had to carry it routinely, I would leave the chamber empty, and charge it upon drawing, just like they told us in the army for our .45 Government Models.

Wayne

My Tok had a firing pin where the notch that was worn to the point where the detent that is supposed to keep it from firing unless the trigger is pulled would allow the pin to go forward even if the safetly was on. So, I am sure that the decocker would have potentially fired...
I replaced the firing pin, and now you have to pull the trigger (which raises that little lever that pushes up on the detent) to get it to fire. :)

I recently replaced the rollers and the barrel and the safety detent spring. I also fully dissasembled and cleaned/lubed it. It's like a new gun! :D

[spqr]

M57 has a decent safety. Chamber a round, carefully lower the hammer down and it will stop just prior to engaging the pin. Locks in place. Engage the safety. To fire the safety is lowered and hammer pulled back fully. To test the safety of this I did my routine at the range, and with the hammer down but locked over a full chambered round, I proceeded to hit the hammer with block of wood. No movement, no accidental fire. I have since carried this way. BTW , a Browning Hi-Power holster fits this gun PERFECTLY.
Chrono data again:
12.5 H110 over Lee93RN sized to .309. - 1760ft/sec COL 1.295 to chamber
S&B off the shelf. - 1550 ft/sec
Czech Milsurp steel hulled 86gr - 1650avg

[LAGS]

I got my late friends Chinese Tokarov from his estate sale.
When he had it, I cast him up some 100 grain linotype Boolits sized to .309 and Powder Coated.
There were some rounds in the box that he had loaded with there Boolits.
But no loading data.
When I tore down a couple of these rounds , they have 5.5 grains of some powder.
But I am not sure which powder it is.
Does anybody have any ideas or loading info for that cast Boolits.
I did take the gun out and fire some of those reloads.
They shot great.
I just need to find some data to reload all the empty casings that came with the pistol.
I did take the powder that was in the reloads.
It looks like Unique , and almost perfectly the same Weight Per Volume.
But if any of you can give me more information , it would be appreciated.

[Kosh75287]

Makarov.com is your friend, if they are still in operation. They should have loading data for the 7.62x25.
If you have Unique, you might try filling a spent case with it to see how much it will hold. One friend who shot a Cz-52 extensively, claimed that, unless you compress the charge, it is impossible to put enough (too much?) Unique in the case to develop an over-pressure load.
I've barely put together the equipment needed to reload for this round, let alone cast bullets for it. Were I to cast for it, I'd sure take a good hard look at polymer-coating the bullets, or using gas checks. The round is fully capable of 1300+ f/s with almost any reasonable projectile, so leading will almost certainly be a consideration.

[Battis]

I use 78 gr cast bullets sized to .309 and 5 grs Titegroup.

[Misery-Whip]

This is all the load data I have for the tokarev. I have a Yugo M57 and the 32 cal 100gr xtp shoot to the sights at 100 yards using AA#7. Nice boom some fireball and good accuracy whats not to love? Oh yeah it chucks cases into the great beyond! My chamber will accept and release .312, but my bore is .314.

Lyman cast bullet handbook:
309767

Lee Jacketed Data:
309768

[LAGS]

I checked the full case capacity on the 7.62x25 with unique.
It is around 9.3 gr.
The 100 gr cast Boolits are very long and have to be seated deep.
So with a lesser load , you will still be showing some compression of the powder.
I have both the Lyman and Lee reloading manuals.
But they do not list the 100 gr CAST Boolits they I inquired about.
I guess I could use the Jacketed info as shown in the Lee Manual.
But I do not have any Accurate Powders except a little Acc #2

[WRideout]

I got my late friends Chinese Tokarov from his estate sale.
When he had it, I cast him up some 100 grain linotype Boolits sized to .309 and Powder Coated.
There were some rounds in the box that he had loaded with there Boolits.
But no loading data.
When I tore down a couple of these rounds , they have 5.5 grains of some powder.
But I am not sure which powder it is.
Does anybody have any ideas or loading info for that cast Boolits.
I did take the gun out and fire some of those reloads.
They shot great.
I just need to find some data to reload all the empty casings that came with the pistol.
I did take the powder that was in the reloads.
It looks like Unique , and almost perfectly the same Weight Per Volume.
But if any of you can give me more information , it would be appreciated.

I have used 6.0 gr of Unique in the 7.62x25 for years with perfect satisfaction. However I just replaced the firing pin on my Romanian Tok for the second time. I was afraid that the load was battering the action too much, so I recently backed off to 5.5 gr Unique; it seems to do just fine. Also, with the cost of powder these days, 1/2 gr per cartridge can seem significant.

Wayne

[jdgabbard]

I haven't loaded for the CZ-52 in a while. But I used to load for it quite a bit, and always used unique. Today if I were working up a load I think I would probably go with the same or possibly Ramshot Silhouette, mostly just because of my personal tastes in powder. I used a custom mold I had made for me by Mountain Molds (out of business now). But it was pretty accurate in my pistol, although I did get leading. I haven't tried it with PC'd boolits, but I suspect that it might still lead a little.

As for the .223 brass, yes you can do it. However, it's not a perfect solution. The case head diameter of the .223/5.56 is just a little smaller, and results in "fattie" looking cases. Neck turning or reaming is also required in most cases. You can use a drill bit (I forget which size), and I actually 3D Printed a jig at one point to do this. However, I found doing this resulted in boolits that would just drop into the case without hardly touching the sides. So I'm thinking a proper neck turner/neck reamer is better suited.

Here is a picture of the boolet and loaded cartridges from my custom mold. It drops a 90gr FN at about .3125 with WW, or .311 with PB from my experience. Easy enough to size up a little with PC.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=53664&d=1345330631

[LAGS]

Thank you Wrideout.
I will try loading those 100 gr PC'ed Boolits with starting at 5.0 gr of Unique.
From what I have seen , my Chinese Pistol just doesn't seem as durable as other Tokerevs like the Russian , Romanian or CZ's
And it is always smarter to start out lower and work up a load for your gun.

[barnetmill]

Been there done that.

I ..............

But I have to admit, I love the Cz-52. It sits below my left elbow where I sit in my recliner, between the recliner and my table. It is ALWAYS loaded with one in the chamber, on safe with hammer cocked. If I need it all I need to do is flick the safety and go to. There are also about 6 knives and a tomahawk all within reach. Not counting the razor hidden in my lap table.

No I'm not paranoid. I don't think anyone is out to get me. And as long as I am always ready, I'll probably never have to use any of it.

But if your not ready, ol Murphy will get ya.
If you have not I would carefully research how the safety and hammer work on the CZ52.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/cz-52-hammer-drop-warning.633919/

For no special reason except to just check the gun, I removed the magazine and ejected the chambered round.
I looked the gun over then fully reloaded it.
Then I used the hammer drop safety to drop the hammer.
The gun fired.
Damn that was loud. My left ear drum is still sore.


The bad news.
1. The hammer drop "safety" failed. (I don't know why yet.)

2. There's a hole clean through my shop wall.

3. My left ear drum still hurts.

4 My trust in the CZ-52 is now low (I have two).

The people below were trying to sell something so the below is for an interested person to further research.



CZ-52 Safety Notes
The basic laws of firearms safety

A gun is always loaded.
If you believe that the gun is unloaded, see the first law.
Never point the gun at anything you do not wish to shoot.
Never put your finger on the trigger until you are ready to engage the target.
Know your target and what is beyond.

Safety / decocker operation and safety issues

The CZ-52 safety has 3 settings:

Fire (rotated all the way down)
Safe (horizontal, hammer stays back)
Decock (rotate up, returns to "safe")

However, that is only the intent of the design. If the decocking notch is worn, the motion of the decocker may raise the firing pin detent and that has the same effect as pulling the trigger in the "Fire" position!

Think carefully about that phrase "If the decocking notch is worn". This is a surplus weapon built in the early 1950s and possibly with much use before you bought it. The only safe assumption is that it is worn!

Do not rely on the decocking mechanism to safely decock the CZ-52, especially if using the CZ-52-2 and CZ-52-3 redesigned firing pin plungers. If your decocking notch is worn, your pistol will likely fire when decocked.

The original CZ-52 design included a rather ineffective firing pin block that becomes less trustworthy with wear. As stated above, all CZ-52s are old and most have seen significant use. The safety disables the trigger, but if the gun were dropped there is a chance that the hammer could fall and strike the firing pin. The CZ-52 should not be carried with a round in the chamber.

The CZ-52-2 and CZ-52-3 firing pin kits effectively disable this relatively ineffective firing pin block mechanism. They instead use a spring return to retract the firing pin. This means that if the decocker is defective, as many are, the decocker is effectively a trigger.

Here is what has come to be known as the "pencil test" of a CZ-52 decocker. It can warn you if your decocker is defective:

Put a pencil into the barrel, eraser-end first. Activate the decocker. If the pencil moves at all, the decocker is basically a trigger!
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Harrington Products
7726 State Road 26 East
Lafayette IN 47905

[tja6435]

I run the Lee 311-93 boolits sized to .310 with BAC lube. I used Bullseye for the powder, I think I settled on 4.5gr. It runs my friends Norinco TT-33 just fine and he finds the accuracy good enough for his skill.

[JiriK]

Picking up old thread.
I bought a soviet 1936 vintage TT-33 a couple of months ago. Fun gun to shoot but ammo is a bit expensive. I have ca. 95pcs of S&B 7.62x25 and 7.63 Mauser brass.
Also converted 50 223rem brass to Tok. Not reamed or trimmed yet thou.

My moulds that may suit Tokarev are Lee 311-100-2R and TL314-90-SWC. Also have RCBS .312" WC mould but doubt that feeds...
Recommendations on good moulds are welcome.

How hard lead should be used to cast bullets for Tokarev? I have pure lead, range scrap from airgun- and .22 ranges and also linotype.

[jdgabbard]

Picking up old thread.
I bought a soviet 1936 vintage TT-33 a couple of months ago. Fun gun to shoot but ammo is a bit expensive. I have ca. 95pcs of S&B 7.62x25 and 7.63 Mauser brass.
Also converted 50 223rem brass to Tok. Not reamed or trimmed yet thou.

My moulds that may suit Tokarev are Lee 311-100-2R and TL314-90-SWC. Also have RCBS .312" WC mould but doubt that feeds...
Recommendations on good moulds are welcome.

How hard lead should be used to cast bullets for Tokarev? I have pure lead, range scrap from airgun- and .22 ranges and also linotype.

So, you can see my custom mold above. Here is a link to it's description: https://bulletmatch.com/bullets/mountain-moulds-311-90-rf

Accurate molds has a VERY similar mold that was designed a little while after I designed my mold. It can be found here: https://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=31-085G

I typically use an alloy of 50/50+2%, which is pretty common. But the real test with the Toks is going to be getting a fat enough boolit to still chamber. This seems to be hit or miss. Just like with every other caliber, proper boolit size is often more important than hardness.

[JiriK]

Thanks, jdgabbard. Those bullets look good. Tried to search if mpmolds offers something similar, but didn´t find anything.

I have loaded Berrys 32cal .312" 71grain bullets. Those fit in the chamber, but I think the barrel has major dia of .314" (need to measure it again to verify)
Berrys work ok, I tested loads of 0.34-0.42g of N340. 0.40g or more and the gun cycles. All holes were round so no issues there.

It´s getting a bit cold here but I try to cast some test bullets with those lee molds I have. I don´t have wheelweights so I maybe 50/50 rangescrap/Linotype? Or softer, 1/3-2/3?

[jdgabbard]

1/3 Lino to Range Scrap might be ok. Depends on a few things, but I would imagine you can tweak it to get the most out of your alloy.

As for the mold similarities, the Accurate mold is the only one I have found that is close to my own. And was designed independently of my own design, though I did bring up the similarities when it was proposed. I don’t think MP or NOE has anything similar. Though I’d be happy to send copies to either of them if they wanted to make a clone… the only change I might make these days would be a slightly larger diameter, maybe .312-.313, and possibly doing way with the lube groove and adding a gas check shank for PC’d boolits.

[JiriK]

Got around to cast some bullets. Temperature +2deg.C but hot casting pot kept me warm enough.

Lee 311-100-2R looks a bit long. Base is deep inside case, bottom lube groove exposed to powder.
So I tested how it looks if cut so that bottom grease groove disappears.
Weight 75.5grains (uncut 95.6grain) Used 50-50 range scrap and linotype.
COAL 1.286" passes plunk test with bullet as cast, .314 diameter.

Not interested in cutting bullets so thinking about getting that mould modified.
I saw a video on youtube about cutting bullets shorter. Didn´t bookmark it thou..
Does that long bullet matter?

I sent message to mountainmoulds but no response so far.

319901
Left: Berry´s 71grain plated 32 bullets
Middle: Lee TL314-90-SWC
Right: Lee 311-100-2R cut and as cast.

[Wayne Smith]

Dan at mountianmolds has been retired for a couple of years, now. I would address the issue with Accurate, if he doesn't have something adequate in his catalog already.

[jdgabbard]

Dan at mountianmolds has been retired for a couple of years, now. I would address the issue with Accurate, if he doesn't have something adequate in his catalog already.

I posted the link in my previous response, but the 31-085G from Accurate is almost identical to my own. Just slightly different nose profile, and 5gr lighter.

Btw, JiriK, you have a RN boolit with a single lube groove in your photo. What which one is that? Or are you saying you cut the base and a lube groove off of the Lee 100gr?? Because that would be nearly ideal for the Tok, assuming it's in the 85-95gr range.

[JiriK]

I posted the link in my previous response, but the 31-085G from Accurate is almost identical to my own. Just slightly different nose profile, and 5gr lighter.

Btw, JiriK, you have a RN boolit with a single lube groove in your photo. What which one is that? Or are you saying you cut the base and a lube groove off of the Lee 100gr?? Because that would be nearly ideal for the Tok, assuming it's in the 85-95gr range.

Yes, I have a small lathe with a collet chuck. Used that to cut the bottom lube groove off of the cast Lee 311-100-2R bullet.
Now that I think about it, I could mount that mould in the independent 4-jaw chuck and drop the top surface of mould down a bit. Maybe cut the ridge of lower lube groove off too so I could have more mass and more driving length in the bullet.

[jdgabbard]

Yes, I have a small lathe with a collet chuck. Used that to cut the bottom lube groove off of the cast Lee 311-100-2R bullet.
Now that I think about it, I could mount that mould in the independent 4-jaw chuck and drop the top surface of mould down a bit. Maybe cut the ridge of lower lube groove off too so I could have more mass and more driving length in the bullet.

Depending on the diameter of the lube groove, you might also be able to slightly extend the groom to make a gascheck shank. That would actually be ideal. When I designed my boolit that was the issue, the neck is so short you couldn't have a lube groove and a gascheck. But now with PCing being so proven, you could do away with the lube groove entirely and add a gascheck with a depth that could still remain in the neck. As I said before, if I were to redesign my boolit that is basically what I would do today.

[JiriK]

I cut eight bullets short and loaded rounds with them. Rounds cycled the gun just fine and bullets punched round holes at 25m
0.41g of N340 felt a bit too much. Will try different loads.

Lube groove has diameter of 0.288". I don´t have lubing and sizing die for .314 bullet at the moment - So no way to install gas checks. I could machine something but we´ll see. I have found only one store here in Finland that sells gas checks.

[JiriK]

Finally got .314 sizing die and .30cal gas checks.
This time I cut the base of the bullet off in a lathe. We´ll see how these work.
If well, I will modify the mould.

[jdgabbard]

Finally got .314 sizing die and .30cal gas checks.
This time I cut the base of the bullet off in a lathe. We´ll see how these work.
If well, I will modify the mould.

Let us know how well they work. The design looks like it should work if PC'd and using the top groove to crimp into. Otherwise the gascheck might sit down below the case neck. Hard to say without having a copy on hand to measure.