Case separated at mid point. How to remove?

[Bama]

Had a case separate mid body when ejecting with bolt gun. Forward portion of case remained in chamber. I have tried the cleaning brush method of removal but could never get a grip sufficient to remove. Anyone go another method they have used sussfually?

[redhawk0]

try to get a little penetrating oil between the case and the chamber. Then clean the inside of the brass and try the cleaning brush method again.

I use Stainless brush for this.

Is this straight wall or bottleneck case? I'm assuming bottleneck.

redhawk

[brass410]

Try this before you go any route its easy its cheap and has worked everytime for me even to remove case stuck in dies. CRC makes product called freeze spray instantly freezes surfaces to -50c. available at any parts supply, Oriellys pep boys the lot. Part # 74086 I've sprayed it through the nozzle tube onto stuck cases in my die sizing die the brass shrinks faster than the steel usually falls out or sometimes I give it a tap on the bench some times you might have to spray a second time but it works with no damage for me try it what have you got to loose? just don't spray it on skin it'll give frostbite right now!!

[redhawk0]

Great tip, brass....I think I may pick up a can just in case....I get stuck ones now and then too. I try to stretch my brass usage a bit far sometimes with the old 303 Savage cases....they aren't easy to come by. (or at least they weren't for awhile...now there are some manufactures making brass again). That probably won't stop me from still getting a stuck one now and then.

redhawk

[Char-Gar]

Do yourself a favor and buy a broken shell remover. These have been around for a very long time. I keep one for the rifle calibers I load most. They are easy to use, just put it in the chamber and close the bolt. Open the bolt and out comes the remover and the broken case.

[AntiqueSledMan]

Use an oversize cleaning brush, remove bolt & enter from breach end.
Before you exit case, pull it out the breach.

Have done this myself, AntiqueSledMan.

[GRUMPA]

Try a rat tail file.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I've had great success in the past with the cleaning brush method. You need a sturdy rod and a brush that is considerably larger than the cartridge case. An example would be a .45 Cal. rifle brush in a .30 Cal. case. Jam it in and twist the rod to let the bristles get a good bite, and then pull it out while continuing to turn (as much as possible) in the same direction. Also, if you can find a steel rod like a barracks cleaning rod, you can often just slide it down the bore until you feel the edge of the rod (no tip on it) connect with the mouth of the case, and then a slight whack with the palm of your hand will make it fall out.

[upnorthwis]

I knew a guy who kept an extended tap in his range box. Would hand thread it in broken brass to pull it out. The only problem he had was when he only thought that the brass had separated and he ended up threading his chamber. We used to kid him about his 20 twist barrel and that was per inch, not foot.

[Plate plinker]

Try this before you go any route its easy its cheap and has worked everytime for me even to remove case stuck in dies. CRC makes product called freeze spray instantly freezes surfaces to -50c. available at any parts supply, Oriellys pep boys the lot. Part # 74086 I've sprayed it through the nozzle tube onto stuck cases in my die sizing die the brass shrinks faster than the steel usually falls out or sometimes I give it a tap on the bench some times you might have to spray a second time but it works with no damage for me try it what have you got to loose? just don't spray it on skin it'll give frostbite right now!!

That stuff works suprisingly well.

[AntiqueSledMan]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDYx5-1AZdk

AntiqueSledMan

[dverna]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDYx5-1AZdk

AntiqueSledMan

Thanks for posting that. I have never had a case separate but good knowledge to have.

[vzerone]

I'll tell you a way. If you have a large assortment of taps you can find a tap that just enters the case. Fine thread is better. Turn a few times to grip the case, then tap out with a cleaning rod.

[swheeler]

Plug the barrel just in front of the chamber, pour in enough cerrosafe to fill the separated casing, let it set 10 minutes and tap it out from muzzle.

[Blue2]

Plug the barrel just in front of the chamber, pour in enough cerrosafe to fill the separated casing, let it set 10 minutes and tap it out from muzzle.

I have been always successful with this method as well. But I like the idea of the freeze spray and if it would work as a first effort I would try it first. I know that the freeze spray can be purchased as a chewing gum remover from carpeted floors.

[lavenatti]

Freeze spray and air dusters (for cleaning keyboards) are usually the same stuff. The air duster doesn't have a tube inside going to the bottom of the can to directly spray out the liquid. Holding the air duster can upside down remedies this if you're looking to use it as freeze spray.
The air duster spray cans are usually easier to find and since they are made in higher quantity - cheaper.

[Bama]

Plug the barrel just in front of the chamber, pour in enough cerrosafe to fill the separated casing, let it set 10 minutes and tap it out from muzzle.

Ok guys I tried using Cerrosafe and got a good looking chamber cast but the forward portion of the casing did not budge. I had cleaned the inside of the brass with spray carb cleaner. Anyone have any more ideas befor I break down and take to gun smith

[gunwonk]

Ok guys I tried using Cerrosafe and got a good looking chamber cast but the forward portion of the casing did not budge. I had cleaned the inside of the brass with spray carb cleaner. Anyone have any more ideas befor I break down and take to gun smithTry to find a short length of rubber or plastic tubing that just fits inside the case, a couple of washers, and a long 8-32 (or whatever) screw that fits the front of your cleaning rod. Stack up washer, tubing, washer, on the screw, install it on the front of the rod, stick the assembly into the half-case, and try twisting the rod to tighten the screw and compress the tubing. If you've been living right, the tubing will get fatter and jam in the case. Pull.

Disclaimer: I haven't had to try this myself. Yet. (Well, you did say "ideas".) :)

[swheeler]

I'd try a chamber cast one more time, dry brush the chamber and broken case and knock out as soon as cool/ solidified. I've removed several for people with a dental pick, make darn sure you are up inside the brass a good distance, dig the tip in and exert some side force to see if you can get any movement, you have to have the hands and nerves of a surgeon.;-). Broken shell extractors are not very expensive, I've never used one but may be the safest route and cheaper than a smith.
https://www.brownells.com/reloading/reloading-dies/stuck-case-removers/broken-shell-extractor-308-win-prod39518.aspx

the 2 reviews for this product leaves me wondering?

[vzerone]

Problem with the chamber cast sounds like the cast isn't adhering to the inside of the remainder of the case. We know that the case mouth isn't suppose to touch the end of the chamber, so may if you cast a little deeper so that the cast material fills that void between the case mouth and end of the chamber it may be enough grip to grab the case.

Other then that find a find thread tap (preferably a starter tap) that will just fit the inside of the case and screw it in to get a grip and then see if you can tap the case out with a rod. As long as the tap is much smaller then the chamber you aren't going to hurt anything.

VZ

[Bama]

Local gum smith removed casing using a 1/4” easy out while tapping from muzzle end using a cleaning rod. Thanks for everyone’s help

[vzerone]

Well how about that. Guess I was pretty dang close with what I said!!! :drinks:

[Bama]

Yep!!

[Rapidrob]

A tap works 100% of the time. Been using it for decades.

[gwpercle]

This is for next time......learn what an incipient crack is and watch for them on the case body.
When you spot one....don't load it. The next step from incipient is to partial or full separation.
Once you learn what to look for...it looks like a little line or groove on the case body going around it's circumference . The line will start out small but quickly grows to a separation....
Watch for them pesky things! They cause you a lot of trouble and oath utterings
Gary

[swheeler]

Bama glad you got it out.

[Bama]

This is for next time......learn what an incipient crack is and watch for them on the case body.
When you spot one....don't load it. The next step from incipient is to partial or full separation.
Once you learn what to look for...it looks like a little line or groove on the case body going around it's circumference . The line will start out small but quickly grows to a separation....
Watch for them pesky things! They cause you a lot of trouble and oath utterings
Gary

The cracks I have. Found in past start from the inside and when you see on outside, it has already separated. I normally check all fired cases before loading with an L bent piece of piano wire sharpened to a fine point. It can detect thinned areas and cracks larger than the sharpen ed point. I don,t know of a better. Way! I norm ally remove all wax or lube from cases and from chamber. I am now wondering if totally clean brass and dry chamber is such a good idea?

[Bama]

Bama glad you got it out.

Thanks!

[ascast]

Next time- sulfur bonds with copper/brass. Get it all clean, (no moly) melt some sulfur, pour it in ( bore blocked) let it harden for a couple minutes, tap it out from the muzzle. This will always work unless the brass is plated or contaminated with moly or some crazy homemade lube stuff.
Always works, no chance of damage to chamber. Do NOT use a rat tail file ever.

Post some 303 Savage loads, or stories.

[Bama]

Gun smith gave me the easy out— said it would happen again someday, just a matter of time and cases loaded. I will need to get some sulfur just in case. It is really a bummmer to have one stuck! Working with metallurgist to see what technology is available to detect cracks or thinning.

[EDG]

For tapered cases you can often chamber another fired case. Jam it into the broken case and your rifle's extractor will pull both cases out.

I have pulled a lot of cases out of Lee-Enfields with that trick.

[lightman]

For tapered cases you can often chamber another fired case. Jam it into the broken case and your rifle's extractor will pull both cases out.

I have pulled a lot of cases out of Lee-Enfields with that trick.

Some of the guys that I shoot with have M-16's and its pretty common to find the neck of a 223 case stuck to a loaded round, laying on the firing line. And have separated broken 223 brass laying around after they shoot. I wondered if you could intentally shove a loaded round into the broken neck and get it out.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

The thing that puzzled me was that the separation came in the middle of the case, which isn't the usual place. It might be that the case was engaging with pitting or other damage in the chamber. Maybe someone in the past had used a rat-tail file.

All seems well that ends well, and you heard some good advice. A case extractor is the counsel of perfection, but they aren't made for every calibre. The ones that work best catch the front edge of the neck rather than the interior, and that may fail if you have chamfered the neck heavily.

Cerrosafe has that special brief contraction to permit extraction. Leaving it for a few hours would help, and there are very similar alloys which don't contract - including low melting point solders, which should be best of all if you clean and flux the inside of the case. But it costs money and delay to get some, which you may never use again. I would have tried cutting off the part of that cast which fitted inside the case, and epoxying it in place. Then you could knock out the whole thing from the muzzle.

[EDG]

It might work but I would much prefer to try a fired case or even a resized but not loaded case.
I suppose a dummy round might pull a broken neck but using a live round should be sort of a proceed with caution exercise.


Some of the guys that I shoot with have M-16's and its pretty common to find the neck of a 223 case stuck to a loaded round, laying on the firing line. And have separated broken 223 brass laying around after they shoot. I wondered if you could intentally shove a loaded round into the broken neck and get it out.

[yarro]

The only time I have had head separations in my M-16 was with two lots of surplus LC-73 and LC-74 ammo. About 1% of them separated at the anneal line on the case. Most came out when the next case jammed into it. The couple that did not came out when a tight patch was run from the muzzle end. They did the same thing in a Colt SP1 but not my bolt gun. So far those are the only case head separations that I have had. Guns others have brought to me have either allowed removal with a bore brush, or I put the action in the chest freezer and they fell out after the gun got down to temp.

-yarro

[DangerousDave]

I have removed separated casings by just finding a suitable diameter piece of brass round stock and inserting it down the muzzle. I catch the mouth of the case on the edge of it and lightly tap with a hammer. An aluminum cleaning rod would also work if one has a spare to risk damaging in the process... Even a piece of brazing rod would work in a small bore.. It just needs a sharp enough edge on the tip to engage the mouth.

[ipopum]

I have used a plastic wall anchor on a threaded rod. When pushed up into the ruptured case and given a few turns to expand the plastic anchor in the neck a pull will usually remove the broken case

[swheeler]

I have used a plastic wall anchor on a threaded rod. When pushed up into the ruptured case and given a few turns to expand the plastic anchor in the neck a pull will usually remove the broken case

Now that sounds like a Kool idea!

[Rcmaveric]

I used cerrosafe. Just follow the directions for making a chamber cast. Nock it out with rod. Re melt latter and get your cerrosafe back.

[swheeler]

I used cerrosafe. Just follow the directions for making a chamber cast. Nock it out with rod. Re melt latter and get your cerrosafe back.

Yep that's what I've done but it didn't work for Bama, read back a few posts.

[Rcmaveric]

Yep that's what I've done but it didn't work for Bama, read back a few posts.Oops, yeah you are right. I didnt read the post. I just read the title and posted and rolled on. My bad.

Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk

[Lloyd Smale]

whats worked for me in ar15s is a chamber brush. One of those cleaning brushes with the steel bigger section in the back for chamber cleaning. I keep one on a pistol cleaning rod and unless your shooting over pressure rounds it usually pops them right out.

[one-eyed fat man]

Any tank crewman old enough to remember the M73 machine gun, was very familiar with 'EXTRACTOR, ruptured cartridge' NSN: 4933-00-652-9950. For those unfamiliar, the M73/M219 series proved that Springfield Armory could design a gun with a higher rate of stoppages per minute than the French.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/pub/products/409490.jpg

[Lloyd Smale]

I have one of those I bought when I had my cetme. they were real prone to cases getting stuck in the chamber. especially if you used softer commercial brass.
Any tank crewman old enough to remember the M73 machine gun, was very familiar with 'EXTRACTOR, ruptured cartridge' NSN: 4933-00-652-9950. For those unfamiliar, the M73/M219 series proved that Springfield Armory could design a gun with a higher rate of stoppages per minute than the French.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/pub/products/409490.jpg