RCBS Green Machine Question

[rjbuilder]

I just picked up a Green Machine to tinker with. The first thing I'm going to do is get rid of the lousy priming setup
and replace it with a Dillon primer feed tube. I would also like to install the Dillon low primer warning kit on the tube.
I'm not sure if it will fit on the tube alone or if it is designed to be used with a blast tube. Any thoughts on this?

[skeettx]

Good luck on your upgrade, I also have one, but it sits idle.
If you get yours working and want another .....
Enjoy
Mike

[Jeff Michel]

Once setup, it's a monster. I prime as a separate step, never could get the factory setup to work. Serious PITA.

[dverna]

Forget about trying to get the priming system to work.

[salpal48]

Hope You Get it running. Check Back with us in a year or Two.

[OS OK]

Don't give up on it...you just have to understand the machine and be mechanically inclined to be successful. Bring pre-primed brass to the machine, keep it clean under the track and don't try to run it like a house a fire. Lube it with a dry lube that doesn't collect dust and debris.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq5z3atRsUo >

Here's where I just got it running without the drop through boolit seater die...later I found the parts to complete that die and can run at a pretty stable clip. It's an inline machine not a carousel type, it's mesmerizing to watch as the brass keeps appearing on the left and marching to the right until they jump off completed into the cartridge bin.
I set it up to load the .38S full wad cutter...it'll make all you can shoot and then some.

This is the drop in seater die that makes it so easy to place your cast...not like in the video where I didn't have this die installed yet. >

https://i.imgur.com/ohKYm3d.jpg?1

Heres the instruction manual from RCBS...will tell you the set-up and everything. >

http://rcbs.com/RCBS/media/RCBSMedia/PDFs/Instructions/English%20(EN)/FINAL_GREEN_MACHINE.pdf

Everyday RCBS has less and less parts for the green machine but they will send you free, whatever they have until the parts are exhausted.

https://i.imgur.com/cLPeV6F.jpg?1

I mounted it on a little bar table bottom, just pull a stool up and get to work.

[Cougar Hunter]

Welcome to the Forum,
The RCBS Green Machine can be a beast.
I've been using one since the mid 80's, and bought it new.
As everyone knows, the priming system is it's biggest fault. I could never get mine working consistantly no matter how much I fussed with it. For this reason, I prime off the press as most all Green Machine owners who still use the machine do. Once you bypass the priming aspect the machine works quite well. Fitting a Dillon priming tube may cure the feed issues, but you still have to deal with the linkage and primer delivery to the rail. This is where my fussing was concentrated and I could never get it to work 100% ALL the time. You'll undoubtably see what I mean. I hope you get it working. Concentration and focus is the key :)

[Dan Cash]

The Dillon low primer sensor is clamped to the nut on the blast shield which centers and retains the primer tube.

[rjbuilder]

OS:

I've seen the video along with others on youtube. Yours looks like it is working fine. I am going to get this thing set up one way or the other. Thanks for the good tips and the link to the manual. Almost forgot to ask. How does the little dandy powder system work for you? Do you use rotor #2 for your wadcutters?

[rjbuilder]

Dan: So if I try to mount it on just the primer tube without the blast shield it might be a no go.

[rjbuilder]

Cougar:
I'll try to concentrate on the primer delivery system and see what I can do. Thanks for the advice.

[Cougar Hunter]

For powder delivery, there is a member here who makes an adjustable rotor for the Little Dandy. I have one in mine and it works perfectly. It adjusts using a hex wrench through the powder magazine. The name of the member escapes me, but he was excellent to deal with. I've had mine for several years. This will eliminate trying to acquire proper rotors for a specific charge.

edit: I found the link with his contact info.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?292558-Little-Dandy-Adjustable-Rotor

[rjbuilder]

Cougar:
I just PM'd him. Waiting for a reply. I had remembered reading about this and it sure would help to dial in the correct charge. Many thanks for the info.

[darrondb]

Dan: So if I try to mount it on just the primer tube without the blast shield it might be a no go.

Yes, this is correct. The alarm mounts to the blast shield nut (relatively large diameter compared to primer tube alone). Additionally, the weight of the low primer alarm might make the tube top heavy enough to pull it out of alignment. In lieu of the alarm, you can make a follower rod to fit inside the primer tube and mark it at various intervals to keep track of how many primers are left. The additional weight pushing down on the stack of primers helps with feeding.

[rockrat]

Just called RCBS to check on parts so I can maybe get my old Green Machine going again. Will use my 650 to size and prime and the GM for the rest.
RCBS had in stock every part I needed!!!

[rjbuilder]

Good idea and a lot cheaper. Thanks.

[rjbuilder]

Good to know. I have to clean this thing up before I can get it going. Looks like all the parts are in place.

[hawkeye1]

Looks like a nice set up. Skeettx you mentioned you had one sitting idle. Interested in selling?

[dverna]

Just called RCBS to check on parts so I can maybe get my old Green Machine going again. Will use my 650 to size and prime and the GM for the rest.
RCBS had in stock every part I needed!!!

What would be the advantage of using a 650 to size and prime.....then complete the loading process on another machine?

[OS OK]

OS:

I've seen the video along with others on youtube. Yours looks like it is working fine. I am going to get this thing set up one way or the other. Thanks for the good tips and the link to the manual. Almost forgot to ask. How does the little dandy powder system work for you? Do you use rotor #2 for your wadcutters?

I used the no. 2 at first then changed to the no. 3 with the Bullseye, just made the FWC's a tad bit faster but wasn't necessary. The Lil Dandy throws just fine...settle the powder in the hopper before you start, do that by tapping the hopper 'lightly' with a rubber handled small screwdriver, watch the powder level and after about 6 taps or so it'll stop settling...the first throw from the Dandy should go back into the hopper as you will have settled the powder in the metering hole of the dandy too & will be over the 2.7g.'s you expected.
You needent use the 650 to size and prime beforehand as you can hand prime prolly faster than using the 650...I dunnoh, 6 of one 1/2 dozen of the other...Get into the habit of priming your brass ahead of needing it when you have only 30 minutes to do something in the shop...those primers will keep installed in the brass until you want to use them.
Good luck...if you rehab her right, you'll enjoy using it...just have to get used to turning the Lil Dandy off and on at the right time or you will dump powder on the track many times...after a couple hundred I've gotten used to doing it right now, I keep the air line close so I can keep her blown out because no matter how anal you are...you'll still have a hiccup from time to time!

Post some pictures...you have people following your progress...that makes for long running & interesting threads...

[rjbuilder]

OS:
It needs a lot of cleaning. I'll try to take some before and after photos.
RJ

[fecmech]

I have not owned a green machine but do own 2 CH Auto Champs. After watching the video above and one next to it with the .45acp I'm not sure why the priming is so problematic. Both my CH's prime the same way and once set up properly they run trouble free for thousands and thousands of rounds. For the Auto Champs it's just a matter of adjusting the primer slide bar correctly.

[rockrat]

Called up RCBS for some parts for my Green Machine, they had everything except for the cam on the powder measure. They did call back asking about one dimension on the machine as a part had changed. They had the later part, but not the earlier, luckily my machine was the later one so I got the last one in stock!! Will size/prime on my 650 and load on the GM

[rjbuilder]

I finally got it cleaned up and put back together. I may have to use a lee pro disk powder measure because I want to replace the RCBS priming system with a tube primer feed. I won't be able to use the Little Dandy because the rotor protrudes and won't allow the use of the tube primer feed. I'll see how it goes.

[Cougar Hunter]

I don't where you get them, but I've seen powder rotors that don't protrude past the front of the body of the Little Dandy. Whether they were customized or purchased that way I don't know.
If you google "RCBS Green Machine" the look at images, the first pic is one without the "knob" of the rotor protruding from the Little Dandy.

[Walks]

I admire your courage. I bought one when they came out. Sold it 3 months later at NO loss. I was relieved to be free of it.
Hope to NEVER see another.

[rjbuilder]

Thanks Cougar:'
There is an older video on YouTube that shows a guy on a Green Machine loading 45 acp. with a Star primer feed tube and what looks like what you are describing. His rotor looks cut off. Maybe I'll start a new thread and ask about that. I have the Lee mounted now.

Richard

[rjbuilder]

Walks:
I'm trying. @%&*%#@
Richard

[rjbuilder]

OS OK:
I was trying to use a Star primer feed tube on the Green Machine
but the rotor extends out to far. I notice your rotor seems to be cut off. Is this custom or can you purchase them like that?
Richard

[OS OK]

That rotor came with the machine, all the other rotors I have, have the knurled knob for twisting by hand. I was curious about that too but the cut off part is blued like the rest of the rotor & I don't see saw or grinding marks on it...good question? If your going to use the primer tubes and have conflict just cut the knob off and get it out of your way...only thing is it'll be a dedicated rotor to the Green Machine after that.

[rjbuilder]

Thanks. I was thinking about chopping it off but it's probably going to be very hard to saw. I may try tomorrow.
Richard

[Dragonheart]

Back in my revolver days I purchased a Green Machine way back when they first came out. Great piece of engineering, but not a press for those that don't like to tinker.

When Dillion arrived on the scene with his American Rifleman ad for the 450 press i bit and ordered one. The old Dillon 450 was a dream come true and the Green Machine went to pasture. The GM sat in a cabinet for years and if anyone as asked me for it I would have gladly given it away to free up space.

A few years ago I decided to finally get rid of the GM so put it up for bid on Evil Bay with a starting bid of $10, hoping someone would place a bid if for nothing else but the dies. Little did I know that this old machine has a cult following, long story short it ended up selling for almost $600, which absolutely blew me away. One man's trash is another man's treasure.

[rjbuilder]

Dragonheart:
There was one recently on Ebay that sold for $525.00. Another sold for $280.00 I think it has a lot to do with caliber. The first one was in .38 spl. and the other was in 9mm. I bought mine to play around with it. (.38 cal. ). Almost there with the fine tuning.
Richard

[GBertolet]

I have a Green Machine in 45 acp. I have done several modifications to fix three identified faults in the design. First I got rid of the powder measure and replaced it with a Lee disk measure. I needed a Lee 45 acp riser tube funnel to go with it. You will need a 38 special one. No more spilled powder. If there is not a case underneath, no powder will drop. As a bonus there are 24 disc sizes for powder charges included. Sure beats $12 a drum for the Little Dandy. Secondly get rid of that awful disc jamamatic primer feed. I just used a Dillon primer tube, which fits perfect in the existing primer feed hole. I use a piece of pipe from an old floor lamp for a blast shield. Thirdly, there is a problem with varying bullet seating depths, due to spring in the top plate columns, when cases of different sizing resistance are encountered. I replaced one of the bolts from the bottom plate on the right side, with a longer bolt with a locking nut. I adjust this so the top plate will go down only so far on the right side before stopping on the bolt. The top plate can spring all it wants, but it can only go down so far. This gets more consistent seating depths. The press is a downright pleasure to run now. Rarely a hicup. If I can find some pictures I will post them..

[GBertolet]

Here are Two photo's I had.

[rjbuilder]

GBertolet

I decided to go with the Lee disk powder measure also. I thought I would probably need the riser so I ordered one. I have a Star small primer feed tube that fits perfect. The longer bolt is a good idea and I think I'll do that fix too. I see how you did that from the picture. Thanks for taking time to post all that great info. I just need to find a length of pipe for the blast shield.
Richard

[GBertolet]

You are welcome rjbuilder. I had help discovering these fixes, and now I am glad to pass them on.

[OS OK]

I didn't realize that the top front plate had anything to do with the seat depth...I thought it was from the slop in the linkage of their original seating die. I used a seat/crimp die to crimp on the last station and left the seat stem in to insure that I got a consistent depth. The only gaps I see now in the crimp groove and case neck are from short brass, it ain't much but it's there occasionally.

https://i.imgur.com/VOmK0aq.jpg

[GBertolet]

OS OK, I had originally done that also. The trouble I experienced, was if the bullet was seated deeper in the taper crimp die, it would occasionally shear some lead off the bullet. The 45 has the taper crimp die. Maybe the 38 has a roll crimp die, where this would not be a factor. At least in the 45 it did. How much crimp you use, would be a factor in this also.