380 Brass too large?

[DonMountain]

I have started loading for an old 380 pistol I have had for years, and I am having trouble fitting ammo into the barrel. Using purchased range brass, cleaned and inspected of various makes. Remington 1-1/2 pistol primers. 2.5 grains of W-231 powder, and 115 grain purchased lead projectiles from the ACME company, coated with some sort of red stuff, the RN-NLG type. I miked some of them and they come up at 0.356". When I load them with Hornady dies, most of the cases measure 0.372" to 0.374" and seem to fit in the barrel and shoot just fine. But some of them measure up to 0.380 at the mouth and jam in the gun before they seat far enough in the barrel to chamber properly and lock up to fire. Those that measure this large have a noticeable swelling of the case as far down as the bullet is seated. Three or four of them were of one make, headstamped G.F.L and 380 AUTO. Is there a solution to this problem or what should I do?

[JimB..]

I don’t load 380, but I have a bucket of range brass some of which shows the same bulge near the base. I assume it’s a Glock thing. I have a CasePro, but it hasn’t been worth the $180 to buy the 380 dies for it since I don’t load it yet. Sorry that I can’t be of more help.

[redhawk0]

If you're seeing 0.380" at the case mouth then you have one of two things going on. Either you have an oversized bullet or thicker than nominal brass. I suspect you have oversized bullets. Some of your "red stuff" might be thicker on some bullets than others. Maybe they weren't sized from ACME.

Can you pull the ones that don't fit and take some measurements from the bullets?

redhawk

[Dusty Bannister]

Is it possible that you are not getting the cases full length resized? After you have full length sized all the brass cases, use the chamber of the barrel as a gauge to see if the cases will chamber before you proceed with the rest of the reloading process. Range brass fired in an unknown chamber might be a bit oversized and may take care to reduce it adequately to fit in your Firearm. It might also be that the coating on the bullet is building up the diameter too much and they just need to be sized down to work.

[country gent]

The cases are tapered on the inside thicker to the head. Also brass can vary in thickness brand to brand and even lot to lot. You 115 grn bullet may be getting down into the cases inside taper enough to expand it up to big. If your expanding the full depth of the bullet that may be it also. If this is the case then the fix is to ream the cases out deeper. A lot of work for range brass or brass as available and at the price point of 380 acp brass.

Another issue might be to heavy a crimp swelling the case just below the crimp. But if the tight spot is at the base of the bullet this isn't likely.

[Taterhead]

If 380 is like 9 and some other cartridges, the European headstamps have thick brass. You noted that GFL was one of the culprits.

I assume that the basics have been addressed: e.g. your sizing die will enable re-sized brass to kerplunk into the chamber.

I bet that country gent is right on the money. The heavy-for-caliber bullet is reaching deep into cases where the brass is thick and punching it out. Lately I have realized the importance of sorting brass so that cast bullets get loaded into thin-walled cases. Much greater likelihood of kerplunking properly.

I bet if you spend a little time sorting thick/thin walled brass, you will have better results.

[farmerjim]

About a year ago I got a Ruger LCP, my first and only 380. I bought 2,500 mixed range brass. Bought a 6 cavity lee TL356-95-Rf cast a bunch of boolits, powder coated them and sized to .357. Started loading on my classic cast turret with the Lee factory crimp die in the last station. Some of the brass would come out of the FCD without being resized by the carbide ring and some would not.
I separated all the brass by headstamps and loaded the ones that would not be resized with my .357 boolits. I bought some .355 plated boolits and loaded them into the other cases. They were not resized by the FCD being .002 smaller.
I will use the plated bullets where I have a large chance of loosing the brass.
The ones that were resized by the FCD would not chamber if crimped in a non FCD die.

[Murphy]

One thing reloading for the 380 has taught me is this. Belling the case can play a major factor. Resizing the cases would go fine, but when I would bell the case mouths it seemed I was always getting a bulge in the case just about where the boolit base would be. I tried several different brands of dies to no avail. Then, I tried belling them with my Dillon 9mm dies and it was much better. Finally, I broke down and purchased a LEE Universal Case Expanding Die. It may, or may not work for you in this case but it sure solved my problem with bulged cases.

Good luck,

Murphy

[reddog81]

.380 is way too large for the mouth. The finished rounds should be around .373. Your seating did or crimp die should be removing the belling. It's possible you short stroked the press and the rounds in question didn't get that step.

115 grain bullets are large for .380. When using bullets 15% to 20% larger than the case was designed for its inevitable you will run into some problems. It's possible to work out the problems but you have to pay attention to each step and be able to trouble shoot the process.

[country gent]

I load a 105 grn cp bullet to duplicate the rem 102 grn load I carry in my sig and walther ppks. I have ran into some brass with thick enough wall taper to give some tight rounds but they will chamber. since this is practice ammo for me its not as big an issue. It occurred on very few rounds, maybe 1 out of every 150. Tese small cases and heavy for caliber bullets can get interesting due to inside taper and now the stepped brass. I used an expander that opens not just the case mouth but the length of the bullets seating depth or close to it. This allows better control over bullets tension and if the cases are thick shows the bulge at this stage rather than when a bullet it seated.
My 105 grn load has fed functioned and shot vey accurately in 7 different 380 pistols. It shoots to same point of impact as the rem 102 grn defense load at 25 yds. There is a 8"X11"X4" deep box of this load with the rounds stacked in it in the closet, not sure how many rounds that's is

[dondiego]

The easy fix is not to use G. F. L. headstamped brass. That 115 grain bullet is heavy for that caliber too. A lighter bullet may not require seating as deeply which may help too.

[DerekP Houston]

FYI, I had to order the lee undersize die for 380. I switched from cast rounds to hornady xtp and had constant neck tension issues with the standard die.

[44MAG#1]

Is the measurment of .380" behind the case mouth or right on the mouth? If right on the mouth crank down yhe taper crimp die some more and crimp heavier.
If it measures big behind the case mouth the cases are thick.
Simple solution, use the cases that work. That is what a simpleton like me would do.

[Outpost75]

The problem described is caused by excess seating depth which results in the base of the bullet causing a bulge where it intersects the internal taper of the case wall.

This is caused by using a bullet of improper profile so that when deep seated the base intrudes farther into the case than the base of a factory bullet designed for the .380 ACP.

This is most common when people attempt to load bullets designed for the 9mm Parabellum in .380 brass.

There ARE heavier bullets having a shorter bearing length and correct profile to fit correctly in the .380 case.

I use the Accurate 35-120H in my Ruger, Beretta and SIG .380 pistols with Fiocchi brass and have no issues.


218412

[DonMountain]

After reading all of these recommendations, and checking all this information out with what I have loaded and the purchased commercial lead projectiles, and trying loads with Hornady 115 grain jacketed hollow point bullets I had in stock, I have come to a possible conclusion based on all of your good ideas. My ACME brand coated bullets are too big in diameter for this gun. Some of them that were giving me trouble were up to 0.357" in diameter. The Hornady 115 grain jacketed bullets measured 0.354" in diameter and when loaded in any of the brass they dropped all the way into the barrel and shot real nicely. I have purchased a Lee 102 grain mold designed for the 380, and just picked up a sizing die at 0.355" for my RCBS LAM-II with hopes it will allow all of the brass that I have to work through the pistol. So, maybe I will go out to the shop and fire up the lead pot and see what I can do with this mold and the other Lee 120 grain 9mm mold I also purchased for my other 9mm Luger pistols that I have been working on loads lately. I am going to try using my 0.356" sizing die for the larger 9mm Luger molds that the purchased lead projectiles seem to work ok in. Thanks everybody for your suggestions so far as I am still working on a solution for this. The pistol is rather something unique too. I bought it a long time ago and never shot it until recently. Its a Hungarian Model 1937 pistol and it has a spotless apparently stainless steel barrel made before the war. I have never seen a pistol so easy to take the barrel out of.

[44MAG#1]

"Three or four of them were of one make, headstamped G.F.L and 380 AUTO. Is there a solution to this problem or what should I do?"

Is the problem that the bullets are too large or the G.F.L. cases too thick?
Or are the other cases too thin so they work?

[DonMountain]

"Three or four of them were of one make, headstamped G.F.L and 380 AUTO. Is there a solution to this problem or what should I do?"

Is the problem that the bullets are too large or the G.F.L. cases too thick?
Or are the other cases too thin so they work?

I am still working on the problem as I was out in the shop casting up some Lee 102 grain proper 380 projectiles before I came in. It looks like it is a combination of errors. When the seated bullet stretches the case out to about 0.380" they don't fit in the chamber. At 0.379" they almost fit. At 0.378" they are tight, but the gun doesn't seat them all the way sometimes. At 0.377" I can push them all the way down, but they are still tight. At 0.376" they drop right in. And anything less then that they drop right in. So, its only a matter of a few thousandths of an inch that makes the gun jam or not. If I select a bullet that is 0.356" or 0.357", and a case with a little bit of a thick wall, they don't fit in the chamber. If I select a thin walled case and a 0.356" bullet it will fit. If I select a jacketed Hornady bullet that measures 0.354" no matter what case I use it will drop right in. So, I plan to size these Lee 102 grain lead bullets to 0.355" and see what happens.

[Outpost75]

Lee Factory Crimp Die can profile your loaded rounds to remove the bulge and then the bullet will be sized inside the case.

[DonMountain]

I cast up a bunch of the Lee 356-102-1R bullets to load in the 380 I am having trouble with, and I brought one in and measured it at 0.357" in diameter. I bought a 0.355" sizing die for my RCBS LAM-II, but now realize that I don't have a nose punch that is even close to the profile of this mold. Is there a place on this site that has a cross-reference for LEE molds and RCBS/LYMAN lube/sizer nose punches? Or does anybody use one they could suggest to me that fits this mold?

[JBinMN]

I cast up a bunch of the Lee 356-102-1R bullets to load in the 380 I am having trouble with, and I brought one in and measured it at 0.357" in diameter. I bought a 0.355" sizing die for my RCBS LAM-II, but now realize that I don't have a nose punch that is even close to the profile of this mold. Is there a place on this site that has a cross-reference for LEE molds and RCBS/LYMAN lube/sizer nose punches? Or does anybody use one they could suggest to me that fits this mold?

You could always make up a bit of pan lube to do some of them to test while ya wait for an answer or a new nose punch if ya need to buy one. That is what I would likely do anyway.
;)

G'Luck!
:)

[Dusty Bannister]

I cast up a bunch of the Lee 356-102-1R bullets I bought a 0.355" sizing die for my RCBS LAM-II, but now realize that I don't have a nose punch that is even close to the profile of this mold. Is there a place on this site that has a cross-reference for LEE molds and RCBS/LYMAN lube/sizer nose punches? Or does anybody use one they could suggest to me that fits this mold?

http://castpics.net/dpl/index.php/the-library/top-punch-references

[DonMountain]

You could always make up a bit of pan lube to do some of them to test while ya wait for an answer or a new nose punch if ya need to buy one. That is what I would likely do anyway.
;)

G'Luck!
:)

So, how would "pan lubing" help me with forcing the cast bullet through the sizing die? Or are you suggesting that I pan lube, which I am unfamilier with, and then push the cast bullet through the sizing die that I have for the RCBS LAM-II? Maybe nose first using a flat ended rod of some sort?

[JBinMN]

I am not familiar with how your sizer works so I can't help ya there.

I did not know you are unfamiliar with panlube, but it is not too hard to do. I guess I am just used to it now by the doing of it for some of my boolit designs, and I offered it as an option thinking you might be familiar with it as well, (my mistake thinking that, it appears) & by pan lubing it could get ya by so you could shoot some of them, like I mentioned in the earlier post. Same way if your sizer was broken for some reason.

Anyway, never mind then. Forget I mentioned it. I was just offering some suggestions to try to help out with some options until you were able to use your sizer. ( looks like I made a mistake there as well. I will keep my trap shut now.)

G'Luck regardless.

[Dusty Bannister]

Which top punches do you have for a bullet, 38 cal or smaller?

[DonMountain]

Which top punches do you have for a bullet, 38 cal or smaller?

I have the Lyman top punches: 346, 359, 421, 463, and 467
I have the RCBS top punches: 541, 600, 680 and a blank numbered large Flat Nose

[Dusty Bannister]

Lyman #346 fits the RN 7MM bullet so might be very close to the nose of the 356-102-1R. At worst it will leave a slight ring on the ogive of the nose. If you have some JB weld or epoxy, you can clean the cavity of the punch place a small dab of expoxy in the nose, put the punch in the lube sizer and put some release agent on the nose of the bullet and partly size the bullet and leave the handle down until the epoxy sets up firmly. Then remove the punch from the press and clean off the excess and go size some bullets. There is a sticky on this or just do a site search and you can probably find a number of methods of making a temporary alteration to an existing punch to get you by until you get the correct one. Dusty

[DonMountain]

Lyman #346 fits the RN 7MM bullet so might be very close to the nose of the 356-102-1R. At worst it will leave a slight ring on the ogive of the nose. Dusty

I compared the Lyman #346 with one of my newly cast LEE 102 grain bullets and it does seem to fit pretty well. So, instead of waiting all the way until Monday and running out to Grafs to purchase the #311 Lyman top punch, I think after I spend half the day casting more of these I will put some of them through the RCBS LAM-II using the Lyman #346 top punch and 0.355" sizing die and see how the loaded cartridges fit in the barrel. Thanks for your help again Dusty.

[Duckdog]

I do not use a RCBS sizing die, but I do use a Lee push through sizer with a Lee factory crimp die, and like mentioned earlier, the factory crimp die should size the loaded round down to fit any .380. It works pretty good. I could care less about the crimp it puts on, but I definitely like it sizing the entire round. Might be worth looking into if what you're doing doesn't work out.

[redhawk0]

I have the 102gr as well. I just use Liquid Alox TL on the bullets...and the LEE push through sizer die. I never have any leading with the 380. Its such a short barrel and lower velocity, I don't believe there is a need for a hard or grease lube. I just don't think you need to spend all that time filling the lube groove...Tumble Lube is so easy you can get a batch of 250-500 done in about 10-20 minutes (lining them up on wax paper to dry overnight) I drop a 1/2 teaspoon of powdered mica in my container and shake for the storage to take care of the LA stickiness.

It works for me.

redhawk

[DonMountain]

I have the 102gr as well. I just use Liquid Alox TL on the bullets...and the LEE push through sizer die. I never have any leading with the 380. Its such a short barrel and lower velocity, I don't believe there is a need for a hard or grease lube. I just don't think you need to spend all that time filling the lube groove...Tumble Lube is so easy you can get a batch of 250-500 done in about 10-20 minutes (lining them up on wax paper to dry overnight) I drop a 1/2 teaspoon of powdered mica in my container and shake for the storage to take care of the LA stickiness.

It works for me.

redhawk

Wow! You can apply the Liquid Alox TL on your bullets and size 500 of them in 20 minutes? I am not even sure I can handle that many bullets in 20 minutes let alone size and lube them. I will need to look into this and if it works out I definitely need to get rid of this old fashion way of sizing and lubing on my antique RCBS equipment. Where do I get instructions on how to do this since I have never heard of this before. Is it something new? But what is this LA stickiness thing you talk about? Is it a problem? I don't want to handle sticky bullets during the loading operation?

[redhawk0]

Run your bullets through a LEE sizer then lube them with Liquid Alox.....Liquid Alox is made by LEE....I have mine thinned down 65% with 35% mineral spirits. Put your bullets in a container, add your LA 65/35 mix and shake well. Put them out on Waxed paper to dry overnight. That's about all there is to it. Once they dry they will be a little tacky. Put them in another container and add the mica powder. It removes the tacky feel when you handle them. It also keeps your dies from getting a build up of the lube.

Its super easy...like I said...it works for me.

redhawk

[redhawk0]

Now...all that said...I only use this method with my pistol bullets. I use cookie cutter method of lubing my rifle bullets. There is nothing wrong with the RCBS equipment for lubing bullet grooves...but for pistol...I chose to go the easy way with LEE LA and mica. The 20 min I talked about is only for the lube process...it does take a little longer to run that many through the push sizer die.

redhawk

[DonMountain]

Now...all that said...I only use this method with my pistol bullets. I use cookie cutter method of lubing my rifle bullets. There is nothing wrong with the RCBS equipment for lubing bullet grooves...but for pistol...I chose to go the easy way with LEE LA and mica. The 20 min I talked about is only for the lube process...it does take a little longer to run that many through the push sizer die.

redhawk

Well thank you for this information redhawk. After working with these little tiny 102 grain pistol bullets and putting them through the LAM-II I thought that maybe there might be an easier way to do this. And I had about ruled out casting my own bullets for the 32 ACP. At 75 grains I thought I better just drop that idea and load commercially made bullets. Or play with my 44 MAG instead of these little tiny guns where I loose half my brass on firing.

[redhawk0]

Sure thing...there are many Liquid Alox "recipes" out there...but the LEE Alox 65/35 works for me...you might want to look into the 45/45/10 sometime...its what I plan to try when I run out of LEE Alox. Just do a search here...you'll find it under 45/45/10.

redhawk

[dondiego]

Well thank you for this information redhawk. After working with these little tiny 102 grain pistol bullets and putting them through the LAM-II I thought that maybe there might be an easier way to do this. And I had about ruled out casting my own bullets for the 32 ACP. At 75 grains I thought I better just drop that idea and load commercially made bullets. Or play with my 44 MAG instead of these little tiny guns where I loose half my brass on firing.

Most people use too much liquid alox. If your boolits are dark, you used too much. They will gunk up your dies. Not a big problem but requires periodic cleaning with mineral spirits.

[country gent]

If you have an extra nose punc you can modify it to the leed bullet with a little J*B weld epoxy. coat a bullet with 2 coats of wax and let cure build up the end of the punch with tape to the dia of your bullet and a few layers of tape aroun that to make a "tube" to accept the bullet. coat just the tape with wax. Mix J*B and drip a small amount into the nose cavity push bullet into place and clamp, let cure when removed file end flat and smooth remove sharp edges and you have a form fitted nose punch.

[EMC45]

One thing reloading for the 380 has taught me is this. Belling the case can play a major factor. Resizing the cases would go fine, but when I would bell the case mouths it seemed I was always getting a bulge in the case just about where the boolit base would be. I tried several different brands of dies to no avail. Then, I tried belling them with my Dillon 9mm dies and it was much better. Finally, I broke down and purchased a LEE Universal Case Expanding Die. It may, or may not work for you in this case but it sure solved my problem with bulged cases.

Good luck,

Murphy

Had the same problem myself. Mine happened with Speer and Federal (Both ATK) brass. I use RCBS carbide dies and sizing was fine, but when I went to flare them the die would put a band all the way around the brass.

[redhawk0]

Most people use too much liquid alox. If your boolits are dark, you used too much. They will gunk up your dies. Not a big problem but requires periodic cleaning with mineral spirits.

Yes...very true...

@DonMountain....you just want the bullets to look wet...the LEE Alox TL just needs a real light coating to be effective. And you can lube them multiple times if you don't get full coverage. (just skip the mica powder in between coats) For 250 bullets...try 3/4 - 1 teaspoon to start with. Once you get the right amount...you'll know what you're looking for. Just the "wet" look....no brown color as dondiego said.

redhawk

[Duckdog]

I tumble lube everything, including rifle loads. I have one load for 30-06 that is 2150 FPS (chronographed), and I get zero leading with liquid alox. Proper fit with the bullet is a big factor, but the only thing I get any leading with is the 9MM, and that is a different problem all together.

You can go on E-Bay and get a big jug of this stuff for a lot less than the LEE liquid alox, but even their small bottles seem to last forever.

[DonMountain]

I am back to work on reloading the LEE Cast projectiles (356-102-1R) 102 grain supposedly designed for the 380 that I cast about 2 weeks ago. I put them through the RCBS LAM-II with a 355 sizing die to size and lubricate. And today started loading them with 2.8 grains of W-231 powder. After seating each bullet in the barrel, I discovered that I still had the same problem with about 20% of them not seating all the way when I dropped them in. Certain cases (Blazer) would not even come close to fitting. So I measured the bullets after sizing and discovered that they come out of the 355 sizing die at 0.356" to 0.357" in diameter, the same as the purchased powder coated bullets and produced the same results when dropping them in the barrel. The Winchester factory loads are always 0.002" to 0.003" in diameter smaller than what I can achieve. So, how do I size these cast bullets down to 0.354"? I have never noticed that much spring back of a bullet after sizing it.

[44MAG#1]

Evidentally you need a smaller size die. As I have said many times none of this is rocket science.
Most of us make things harder than they need to be. Me included.

[DonMountain]

I pulled a jacketed bullet out of a new, WaLmart bought box of PMC 380 ammunition, and the bullet measures from 0.354" to 0.355" in diameter as I rotate it and measure in several places. And the loaded factory ammunition measures 0.372" in diameter across the mouth of the factory case, which drops right in to the barrel with no restrictions. My reloads with the Lee 102 grain cast bullet sized in an RCBS 355 sizing die measure 0.373" for RP cases and they drop into the barrel but with no play. The Blazer cases measure 0.375" and don't fit in the chamber. My sized cast lead bullets measure 0.3565" or so. And that is out of the RCBS 355 die. All measurements taken with an old fashioned 1" micrometer that my machinist father gave to me maybe 30 years ago. And I checked them against a gauge block and they are right on to the thousandth.

[44MAG#1]

As I said it looks to me you need a smaller size die as I said in post #41.

[DonMountain]

As I said it looks to me you need a smaller size die as I said in post #41.

That is what I believe also. The problem for me is, I thought this was the solution a long time ago and purchased the RCBS 355 sizer die to get a 0.355" diameter sized bullet. And instead this die produces 0.3565" diameters that still don't fit just like the purchased powder coated bullets of the same size. But now comes the predicament for me. Do I assume that RCBS 355 sizing die is not marked properly and buy another 355 sizing die from them? Or purchase a 354 sizing die and see if it produces sized 0.354" sized bullets? Or will it produce 0.356" bullets? Or should I order a 355 sizing die from Lyman?

[44MAG#1]

"Do I assume that RCBS 355 sizing die is not marked properly and buy another 355 sizing die from them? Or purchase a 354 sizing die and see if it produces sized 0.354" sized bullets? Or will it produce 0.356" bullets? Or should I order a 355 sizing die from Lyman? "

I am a simpleton. I would get the .354". Try it and if the bullets are too small I would polish it it out. WaaLaa, problem solved.

[Dusty Bannister]

Problem solved for the size of the bullet, but now you will need to deal with the lube leaking around the push out rod in the die.

He could use the existing die to lube and size as he has been doing and then try to find a push through die of the diameter he actually needs. Problem is, he might have a loose barrel groove diameter and a tight chamber and then he is sort of stuck. So one more time, slug the barrel with a soft lead slug a couple of times and measure the slugs with the micrometer to verify the minimum diameter of the bullet needed to fill the groove diameter. Then he can try the cast bullets that will be on the way Monday and see if they will chamber properly as loaded and then shoot some to see if the bullet works or leads.

For a non-standard push through die, you may have to go with a custom order die.
Dusty

[44MAG#1]

There is going to be many sounding alarms. Get yourself a .354" die and see. There wont be enough leakage of lube around the push to make a difference if you do have to enlarge the die some. KISS.

[Echo]

I have the 102gr as well. I just use Liquid Alox TL on the bullets...and the LEE push through sizer die. I never have any leading with the 380. Its such a short barrel and lower velocity, I don't believe there is a need for a hard or grease lube. I just don't think you need to spend all that time filling the lube groove...Tumble Lube is so easy you can get a batch of 250-500 done in about 10-20 minutes (lining them up on wax paper to dry overnight) I drop a 1/2 teaspoon of powdered mica in my container and shake for the storage to take care of the LA stickiness.

It works for me.

redhawk

Plus One - do it all the time.

[DonMountain]

There is going to be many sounding alarms. Get yourself a .354" die and see. There wont be enough leakage of lube around the push to make a difference if you do have to enlarge the die some. KISS.

Should I buy another RCBS 354 die or a Lyman 354 die? Or, worse yet, should I buy tooling for my mini-lathe and start making all of my sizing dies myself? No, that sounds like too much effort! It would be easier to just go over to Walmart and buy boxes of ammo. . . . .

[reloader28]

You need to readjust your crimp.
I size all at boolits .358 and even the GFL brass work fine. They measure .374 at the mouth.
I'm using the Ranch Dog boolit and 130gr RF (Lee 125-358). These all work fine in 10 different .380's

[DonMountain]

You need to readjust your crimp.
I size all at boolits .358 and even the GFL brass work fine. They measure .374 at the mouth.
I'm using the Ranch Dog boolit and 130gr RF (Lee 125-358). These all work fine in 10 different .380's

So, you are suggesting that I just size my boolits at the crimp stage to fit in my gun's chamber rather than doing it in my lube sizer so the boolets fit properly along with the brass in my overly-tight chamber? My bet is this gun was just produced in the really old days between the two world wars with worn out chamber cutting tools, making the chamber too tight by a couple of thousandths. And I have already tried crimping them harder to the point where the brass is pushed down, making a wrinkle just below the bullet so that it doesn't fit in the chamber there. So, the only solution seems to be a small sizing die in the Lube/Sizer. I also size 9mm Luger bullets and don't have any such trouble using a 0.356" sizing die for them.

[44MAG#1]

Get yourself a .354" size die.