Enlighten me on the pricing of used S&W

[megasupermagnum]

I've been looking for a nice used S&W model 57. I've really come to like the 41 mag, and after trying a handful, the S&W blew me away. I never did get my hands on a Ruger Redhawk. Am I missing something, or are the older guns that much nicer than brand new? I could walk out the door with a brand new model 57 for just under $900, yet old models, even those with imperfections are listed up around $1200, $1500, sometimes higher. I'm genuinely curious where these prices are coming from, or are these just price gougers?

[RKJ]

From what I've seen, heard and read from various forums, there are a lot of S&W people that do not like the trigger lock and the M&M material the company is using for hammers and other small parts. Myself I don't like the new barrel & shroud setup they've got on some models. I've got a 25-7 with the trigger lock and love it.

[megasupermagnum]

I'm not sure what you mean by m&m hammer, they look the same as the old ones to me. I've never heard of any problems, but that doesn't mean much. I've heard plenty about the internal locks. I'm willing to get over it, but mine would be eliminated the minute the gun came home. I've seen plugs for the holes, then it wouldn't bother me one bit. It seems smith's hold their value quite well, but I still wouldn't pay over $700 used when I can buy brand new for $900. The 57, being of the classics, seems to look identical on the outside, plus the lock. There isn't any other differences I need to be aware of from a pre-lock model?

[jcren]

That got auto corrected from MIM, or metal injection molding. Kinda like molded plastic but in liquid metal. Finished part lacks the grain orientation of a forged part, but can be molded very close to final dimension which saves on machining cost.

[FergusonTO35]

I put some rounds through my 637-2 this afternoon, love that little revolver. I really don't see how an older one would be an improvement for my purposes. A genuine bargain at well under $400.00 too. The lock can be permanently deactivated by filing off the stud on the inside of it that blocks the hammer. On my 637, I also polished off the word "LOCKED" so as not to suggest it is still functional.

[Catshooter]

Just like for Colt, there are quite few who collect S&W. Supply and demand.


Cat

[megasupermagnum]

Just like for Colt, there are quite few who collect S&W. Supply and demand.


Cat

I can understand an 1800's colt, but a 1980/90's S&W being considerably more than new? At least to me, a cast hammer, and easily deleted internal lock is no excuse for that. I guess I get the deal, let the collectors collect.

[samari46]

Back in the 1980's S&W made both the 24-3 series and 624 series of N framed revolvers in 44 special. Barrels ranged from 3",4" and 6.5" in both series. I have the 3" & 4" in the 24-3 series (blued) and 6.5" in the 624 series (stainless steel) after that S&W didn't make any 44 special revolvers on the N frame. Later they came out with I think were the 296 and 396 revolvers in 44 special. The N framed revolvers regardless of 24-3 or 624 do command a premium when found today. Not having seen the smaller 296 or 396 revolvers cannot comment on wether or not these do sell at premium prices or if they are still made today. Having shot all my 44 specials can say that they are fun to shoot and don't beat you up like a 44 magnum. Since getting my 44 specials my 44 mag Redhawk just sits in the safe. Frank

[osteodoc08]

S&W purists want the pinned barrel and recessed cylinders along with the target hammer, trigger, sights.

I have a few older Smiths including an S aerial numbered 4” M57. It’s quality, shootability, accuracy are the same on my newer Smith revolvers. YMMV.

Given the option, I’ll take a no dash 57 for pure nostalgia.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I've owned a couple newer S&W revolvers. I won't buy another one. Besides the Mim parts (not that big deal to me) and the Lock (not that big deal to me), they don't have the 'feel' of the older guns, Most of the new ones I've handled have poor fitting Grips. One day (4 years ago), when I was visiting with a Gander Mountain salesperson, who I specifically asked for a firearms specialist, I ask him what's the deal with this new CNC cut grips, they all fit poorly? He said he hadn't anything about it. I asked to see a nice new blued mod 57...Grips were loose. he was a bit embarrassed, he takes it in the back (to tighten the grips?) comes back out, he says the screw was loose, I grip the gun and the barrel, Grip moves...He takes it back and asks if there is anything else I'd like to see. I ask about the nice new blued model 29. Grips were loose...He and I play the same game. He wasn't happy...but was probably relieved when I left the store.

OK, back to my guns. I swapped for a 6" blued Model 29 about 6 years ago. It seemed fine when I bought it, but when shooting it, I just didn't like the feel...and it had loose grips. This is the first I had come across that, and didn't know what to look for when I inspected it before the swap. I would shim them, they'd work loose after a box of hot ammo. I sold that gun. Some time since then, I swapped for a new Model 625JM Guess what loose grips, trigger is not what I'd expect from a JM gun...but it's not a PC, so I guess it is what it is.

I have a few old S&W's. One is a nice 6" Mod 57 P&R,TT&TH. I wouldn't sell it for under $1200.

I wish you the best of luck, if you buy one of those new $900 Model 57, maybe you'll have better luck than me?

[Drm50]

The 24-25-27-29-57 in a hi condition shooter are $900-$1000, if you are willing to settle for some
blue wear and some minor dings & aftermarket grips, $700-$900. You don't see many cheaper in
N frame unless it's a 28. The dash number after model number can add collector value from P&Rs
foreward. Every dash number represents a engineering change, which unfortunately meant dropped machine work or some other cost cutter. Each model has its own progression and there
isn't much difference in durability or accuracy in the first few dashes past P&R for shooting purposes. There is a big difference in the smoothness of the older Ns made with milled parts. To
me I'll pay the $900 for a older model in top shape before I'd buy a new one. The older models
will increase in price, the new ones not so much. The other thing that affects price is barrel length.
The 4" and shorter barrels bring premium, most are 6-61/2" that's what average price is based on.
The 83/8" will bring a little more than 6", and 5" and odd lengths made in short runs bring more.
NIBs are bringing big bucks in the older models, with box,docs & tools.

[megasupermagnum]

The gun that I liked so much was my dads 57-2, 6" barrel, not pinned or recessed cylinders. The new gun seems to be a copy, it still boasts a target style wide trigger, even the sights seem identical. Loose grips would be a deal breaker. The trigger was another thing that really impressed me, it wouldn't be good if the new ones are not as nice. I want a used model, but I'm not sure I can justify paying that much more than brand new for a used gun. I have yet to see a used one at $900. I've been looking for a couple months, never seen one in a gun shop, only online. Even guns with considerable holster wear, one even had rust, and they still ask $1200. That is just baffling to me. The model 57 is nice, but it's not that nice. I could just save up a little more, and get a custom GP100 in 41 mag. Now that would be cool.

Is the redhawk comparable? I've always preferred Ruger's myself, but never have got a chance to try the redhawk. It seems I can find them for $700, which I would feel more comfortable paying.

[Drm50]

Again there is a big difference in Rugers over the years. Besides a little heavier I would
say they are about even with new production S&Ws. Rugers will hold up better than
S&Ws especially with magnum loads, they are built like a tank.

[megasupermagnum]

What I mean is, is a redhawk relatively comparable to an N-frame, or is it a whole different animal. I'd guess the redhawk is somewhat bigger, but the ones I've seen are quite nice looking. Way sleeker than the super redhawk. I would rather do a trigger job on a $700 redhawk, than hope for the best with an old S&W. I'm looking for a shooter, not a collector piece, and $700 would be a heck of a lot easier to stomach than $1200+.

[6bg6ga]

I'll be blunt here. If you don't like the price then don't complain and don't buy it. Some people and some dealers seem to think the older S&W without the Hillary hole command higher prices. I have both and both are capable of 2lb trigger pulls easily on single action which is what I shoot. I've been to shops with the non-hillary hole guns and the owners seem to feel they are worth more and I simply tell them it won't be from me and walk on.

I have a super red hawk and I find it to be inferior to my S&W 629-3. Both out of the box the S&W has a superior trigger pull and smoother action and again my opinion here based on my trigger pull gauges. On the other side the Ruger Super Red Hawk will take more punishment than what I would probably give my 629-3 or my 629-6 S&W guns.

[Petrol & Powder]

The world of S&W revolvers is huge and the market is complex. However, any item for sale is ultimately only worth what someone will pay for it. Asking prices are not an accurate yardstick of what something is worth, actual selling prices are a bit closer to real value.

If you're a S&W collector, things like pinned barrels, recessed chambers, rare barrel lengths and dash numbers may be important to you. If you're just looking for a good revolver, those things become less important.

On top of all of that, there are a LOT of sellers that will take advantage of uninformed buyers. I recently saw a Model 10-8 that was being presented as a rare collectable heavy barrel version of the Model 10 (all dash 8 model 10's have heavy barrels). The gun was in excellent shape but the only thing unusual about it was the obscenely high price.

My advice - Educate yourself. Learn everything you can about what you are seeking (production dates, production totals, dash numbers, factory barrel lengths and finishes, etc.) Decide what you want (collector's gun, shooter, etc. ) Decide what you are willing to pay for the EXACT gun you want. Set aside the cash for that exact gun and do not spend that cash for something that's "close" to what you want because it is in front of you.

[FergusonTO35]

For my purposes, newer and not collectible usually works better. My 637 has alot of the gray finish worn off the frame from holster wear. Also, I enlarged the rear sight notch a bit to make it easier to see. It is a working gun and the only measure of value to me is how well it works, not how much I could sell it for.

[contender1]

A lot of good info above concerning these guns. Basically, older S&W's command premiums, while newer ones don't. Due to differences in how they were made.

Now, you made mention of the Ruger Redhawk, as compared to the S&W. Totally two different designs. The S&W has a side plate to access the internals, while the Ruger has a solid frame. The internals come out the bottom of the frame. And the design of how the lockwork is built for those two is also different. As such, most folks find the S&W design to feel smoother & all out of the box,, all while acknowledging that the Ruger is a stronger gun. Kinda comparing apples & oranges here. Both have their pluses & minuses.
From your posts,,, you desire a shooter & user. And money is an issue you are using as a yardstick to get you a shooter. No problem with that. I'd suggest you spend the money on a Ruger Redhawk, (it's cheaper) and then spend a little getting a good action job done by a reputable gunsmith that specializes in Ruger DA's, and you will find you will have a gun that will outlast you if you care for it. You have already mentioned you prefer Rugers, and as an owner of several myself, as well as several older S&W's,, I'd say you will be quite satisfied with a Redhawk.

[Dpmsman]

I have to agree with Jon B in Glencoe the fit and finish on the newer Smiths are not even close to what the old ones are. It seems like you have to get a performance center to get what the old Smith's were. I have a 625 JM model and a 632 in 327 Federal and both have fitment issues. The 632's Barrel is canted from being over tightened, it shoots fine but looks bad. The 625 has a large gap between the crane and the frame. In my opinion all CNC Machining has done is allowed gun companies to kick out guns faster, not better. All this aside I think a person has to decide what they really want. Do you want and older collector model? Does fit and finish matter that much to you? If this is a yes then I would take my time save up the money and find what you really want. If you settle for something else that's what you'll be doing settling. The only buyer's remorse I've ever had when buying a gun has been when I settled for something less than what I wanted. Good luck! Check out some gun shows just because they might have a high price on a gun doesn't always mean that they won't bargain once the cash is in front of them.

[Drm50]

I have a good many S&W revolvers, only 9 Rugers. What I have noticed the last few months is the
stalling in S&W market. The prices on shooters has reached the top. Prices had been constantly
going up. Dealers were playing this like the stock market. We are now at the place they are asking
$1200 for the gun they paid $900-$1000. They are not selling. They had been use to flipping guns
for $100-$200 and market has reached the bubble. The guns I'm talking about are shooters not
collectors items. I have three m57s, 2 are 57-1s and are not P&R, there is no difference between
them and my m57 from any practical stand point. I'm a shooter & hunter not a collector and found
out a long time ago that S&Ws were a lot easier to shoot than most revolvers, with the exception
of top of the line Colts. Im not interested in guns I can't shoot but having a good bit of money in
my hoarde I don't want to buy guns that will be worth less than I paid for them. Also I don't want
to buy a gun and pay to have it tuned and end up with as much in it as a good S&W. If you only
have a few guns this may not be a consideration. Depending on what you are going to use the gun
for is important too. S&Ws will not hold up firing hundreds of full power magnum loads, Ruger will.
I have had several newer S&Ws ,all stainless steel and I'm not crazy about them. The lock means
nothing to me. If it bothers you, you can get a plug to replace it. They are still out of the box
slicker than Rugers. One of these can be found used more reasonable than a 57.

[Outpost75]

Knowledgeable shooters are willing to spend more for an old gun that works, than a new gun that doesn't.

[Drm50]

Knowledgeable shooters are willing to spend more for an old gun that works, than a new gun that doesn't.
Exactly, that is it in a nut shell. One other thing I forgot to bring up on S&Ws is the Grip situation.
Because the original grips are going for $100 up for nice targets, the dealers are replacing factories with Pachs or some other cheap rubber grips. They still want same money for the gun.
A N frame that would bring $900 with factories, should only be worth $750 with rubbers. Over
half the S&Ws I pick up have aftermarkets. I can't abide rubber grips and don't like to pay $100+
for S&W grips. I always pick up aftermarket wood targets for mine. You can usually find good
used ones for $40 up.

[megasupermagnum]

I have a good many S&W revolvers, only 9 Rugers. What I have noticed the last few months is the
stalling in S&W market. The prices on shooters has reached the top. Prices had been constantly
going up. Dealers were playing this like the stock market. We are now at the place they are asking
$1200 for the gun they paid $900-$1000. They are not selling. They had been use to flipping guns
for $100-$200 and market has reached the bubble. The guns I'm talking about are shooters not
collectors items. I have three m57s, 2 are 57-1s and are not P&R, there is no difference between
them and my m57 from any practical stand point. I'm a shooter & hunter not a collector and found
out a long time ago that S&Ws were a lot easier to shoot than most revolvers, with the exception
of top of the line Colts. Im not interested in guns I can't shoot but having a good bit of money in
my hoarde I don't want to buy guns that will be worth less than I paid for them. Also I don't want
to buy a gun and pay to have it tuned and end up with as much in it as a good S&W. If you only
have a few guns this may not be a consideration. Depending on what you are going to use the gun
for is important too. S&Ws will not hold up firing hundreds of full power magnum loads, Ruger will.
I have had several newer S&Ws ,all stainless steel and I'm not crazy about them. The lock means
nothing to me. If it bothers you, you can get a plug to replace it. They are still out of the box
slicker than Rugers. One of these can be found used more reasonable than a 57.

That would make sense, and hopefully the price does come down some day. I never had a doubt the S&W is the better gun for me in 41, but I just don't feel like investing that much. I could save up more, but I think I'll pass for now. I'll just keep looking, I'd have no problem spending $900 on an older model, as long as I can hold it in my hand, and look it over real good first. Still, the 5.5" or 7" Redhawks look like they would serve me well too. Maybe one day I'll own both. This revolver would be for hunting, and I put little value of the double action trigger. Ruger's triggers in single action seem good enough to me. I've considered single action revolvers, but I never could warm up the grip style. I've got a 357 mag blackhawk, and that's a handful. I wouldn't want a heavy 41 mag in one.

Anyway, I've learned a bit more about smith and wesson, so that's good. I still don't think they deserve the prices being asked, but so be it. It's not like you would loose that money, they hold their value.

[Drm50]

I get quite a few 57-1s in my area. I had one a couple weeks ago that a local wanted me to sell
for him at Gun Show for $950. It didn't sell and I returned it. I later learned he sold it at Cabelas and I know they didn't give him near $950 for it. I would have gave him $800 had he offered. Not
the 1st time something like that has happened. Guys don't like to let it be known they get ripped
off.

A lot of the N frame magnums are bought on impulse and most owners don't load. The biggest
part of them are low round count guns and have been carried very little. These are the ones I
look for. The Dirty Harry movie sold a lot of 29-2s that are one owner guns that are lucky to have
100rds through them and have lived on a closet shelf since 70s. There are thousands of magnum
pistols like that, you just have to keep your nose to the ground to find them. Everyone with a gun
is not a gun nut. I've had guys really tickled because they sold me their gun for $200 more than
they paid for it new. Individuals is where you find the deals. You never "find" much at gun shows
because very few things are "lost".

[dubber123]

A few thoughts on the new Vs. old. I have a fair pile of S&Ws, and only one gun with a lock. Yes, you can deactivate it, or even pull the lock and plug the hole. You are still stuck with the dumb little flag by the hammer, which drives me nuts, but many don't care. The MIM parts seem fine, but there is no way the finish compares to the old ones. Look close, you can see the injection lines and circles. It looks like the bottom of an old Matchbox car to me. Yuck. The one I have is a 625 that got pounded mercilessly for 30,000 rounds when I was shooting competition, and it was flawless, it just has some factory supplied warts you need to turn a blind eye to.

By far the worst action on any S&W I own was on a Performance center gun, so don't think that always buys you a great action. Pretty gun, lousy trigger.

The S&W factory made PLENTY of clunkers too, I'd look very closely before shelling out 1K for a used blued revolver. This is from a S&W fan.

If this gun really is for hunting, I too think the Redhawk may be your best bet, stronger AND less expensive. I will gently suggest if the Ruger single action triggers seem fine to you as you say, you haven't handled many good triggers :) I haven't worked on a Ruger D/A gun, but their S/A triggers are very easy to tune. Good luck in your search.

[osteodoc08]

Had an interesting conversation with David Clements yesterday or the day before yesterday regarding Smith smiths. He said he got out of the market because of aggravation and didn’t really make enough for the aggravation. He works with Ruger SA exclusively now IIRC our conversation. When asked for a good Smith smith, he really didn’t have one. My fathers 57 no dash seriously
Needs a tune up.

[megasupermagnum]

Single action, I honestly can't tell much difference between the S&W 57, Ruger super redhawk, or blackhawk. I assume the Redhawk is similar. I wouldn't brag about any of them, but a 4 pound crisp trigger is not a hindrance at all for hunting. The double action trigger on the 57 is what really got me interested, but double action serves almost no purpose for hunting.

[jeepyj]

Not sure how far you live from your LGS but it never hurts to let them know what your interested in and check in often letting know your still interested. I stop in to my LGS on a regular basis and pick up cleaners or patches and chat with the older fellow behind the counter. This has made it nice when I'm looking for something in particular. Recently I picked up a 57 no dash and a little bit later a 3 screw Ruger in 41 at for a very reasonable pricing far below some of the prices listed above.

[Ickisrulz]

Single action, I honestly can't tell much difference between the S&W 57, Ruger super redhawk, or blackhawk. I assume the Redhawk is similar. I wouldn't brag about any of them, but a 4 pound crisp trigger is not a hindrance at all for hunting. The double action trigger on the 57 is what really got me interested, but double action serves almost no purpose for hunting.

The Redhawk doesn't have a bad trigger (no creep or grit), but it is much heavier than triggers in Blackhawks and GP-100s.

[Drm50]

There was a era that clunkers of any brand never were sent out for sale. The reason they had a
lot of human hands on them from start to finish. Even something as mundane as a single shot
22 or shotgun, which was about $20 when I was a kid, was expected to be well made and accurate
Things started going south in the 70s as far as QC at the gun companies.

I sold a lot of guns to PDs and took duty guns on trade ins and usually some they had stuck back
with breakage. The S&W vs Colt departments were about even and I took a lot more problem
Colts than S&Ws, in fact the few S&Ws I took in were victims of being run over, dropped or the
number one cause of problems in all brands, Deputy Dolittle tried to take apart. Then couldn't
put it back together.

[Love Life]

Had an interesting conversation with David Clements yesterday or the day before yesterday regarding Smith smiths. He said he got out of the market because of aggravation and didn’t really make enough for the aggravation. He works with Ruger SA exclusively now IIRC our conversation. When asked for a good Smith smith, he really didn’t have one. My fathers 57 no dash seriously
Needs a tune up.

Call Mr. Bruce Warren at BC Armory. He has worked a couple Smith’s for me and his work is worth the money.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

... try it, you may like it! :)

[megasupermagnum]

You need to put a Redhawk in your hand ... the trigger & hammer share a single spring ... so it is "different" than what you may be use too ... try it, you may like it! :)

I've been wanting to, I've yet to see one in a local store in any caliber. I know a shop an hour and a half away with some, but I have yet to make it out there.

[white eagle]

FWIW
I have a new M29 and have never even given the lock a second thought
never even notice it but thats just me I guess
shoots everything I feed it just like the look and feel of the Smith
shrouded barrel MIM parts makes no difference
get what you like and shoot it and enjoy lifes short

[FergusonTO35]

I like the Redhawk, it is real old school Ruger. Built like a tank, innovative design, and reasonably priced.

[murf205]

You need to put a Redhawk in your hand ... the trigger & hammer share a single spring ... so it is "different" than what you may be use too ... try it, you may like it! :)
Which means "don't replace the spring or you may/will have problems with primers not igniting when you drop the hammer!!" MY quotes from experience. Now, with all that said, the stock Ruger SRH or RH is a heck of a gun that I wouldn't be without for a hunting gun. And this comes from a guy with a serious S&W habit.

[dogdoc]

I own many Smiths mostly older but several newer, many from the 60s,70s and 80s. I purchased a new 57 classic in 41 magnum last year. I think it is better put together than many from earlier periods. Locks up tight, side plates fitted great, barrel gaps small, and good finish. Most important ,it shoots great. A lot of what you hear on the internet is nostalgia. All generations of Smith’s I own have imperfections and I think I can find some on every one I own and that is a lot . Some of the worst were from the 70s and 80s. I do not like the lock but I am past that now . The new classics are really nice and more durable as a shooter than many of the earlier pre 1990s models. The 57 I purchased was not perfect either as it had a rough spot on the end of the barrel but it did not affect the crown or shooting. I fixed that myself. Most would not even notice it but I am a perfectionist. Other than as a collector gun, I do not think you can not go wrong with a new one as a shooter and I would buy another in a heartbeat. A new smith 69 is on my short list. Older is not always better.

[jumbeaux]

I have a very modest collection of S&W Revolvers only one is not a Pinned Barrel (a 64-4 2"). There are still some real bargains on used Smiths to be found. While the Pinned barrel revolvers are getting more scarce thus more expensive they can still be found. I have the opposite opinion about the new production pricing. A new production Model 10 sells for $600+ while very nice older Model 10's can be found for under $400. Some of the fun is searching for the right revolver at the right price.

rick

[dogdoc]

I have a very modest collection of S&W Revolvers only one is not a Pinned Barrel (a 64-4 2"). There are still some real bargains on used Smiths to be found. While the Pinned barrel revolvers are getting more scarce thus more expensive they can still be found. I have the opposite opinion about the new production pricing. A new production Model 10 sells for $600+ while very nice older Model 10's can be found for under $400. Some of the fun is searching for the right revolver at the right price.

rick

Seems to depend on caliber and model. Most k,l,and n frame magnums sell for more than new ones in many cases on the internet. In local stores , I can often find older revolvers priced much less than new ones . Looked at an excellent model 67 yesterday priced at 405.00and I could most likely get it for less but I do not need another k frame 38 special so somebody else can have it. The old ones seem much higher on gunbroker a lot of the time. A few months ago I picked up a 686 no dash with box and papers for between 400 and 500, can’t remember exactly but a whole lot less than internet. You just have to ready to pull the trigger when you find them

Dogdoc

[Walkingwolf]

I have two S&W revolvers with the IL, I love both of them. They are high quality beautiful handguns. Of course if I were to sell them I would play up how they are worth more than a old model, and if I had a old model I would play up how much better a old model is. Get were this is going? HYPE controls the market, it is even more prevalent today than before the internet. Unless I can get a used gun for significantly less than a new one I am going with a new one, and have no problem thumbing my nose at those who may get upset because I am ruining their market for older guns at extremely high prices.

About the only gripe I have with both Smith, and Ruger is their insistence of selling guns with slightly longer than 4 inch barrels. This was the only thing that kept me from buying a new 64, as to buying a older model with a true 4 inch barrel. It also has kept me from buying 67, and a 686. The Jordon style holsters I prefer are made for no more than 4 inch barrels. In fact the last new gun I bought was a Taurus 82 because it had a 4 inch barrel, and to give haters heartburn. As much as I hate to admit it, I love giving fanatics heartburn.

[Outpost75]

The 105mm (4.1") barrel length is needed for "restricted" firearms suitable for sport target shooting to comply with the law in Canada. If the barrel length were less than that, it would then fall into the "prohibited" class.

[arlon]

In my part of West Texas, I have not seen a M57/657 for less than $1K in a long time. I recently sold a .41 Redhawk for $650. The Redhawk was a really good shooting gun but I just like the 657 I replaced it with better. No real reason, just aesthetics I think.

[Walkingwolf]

The 105mm (4.1") barrel length is needed for "restricted" firearms suitable for sport target shooting to comply with the law in Canada. If the barrel length were less than that, it would then fall into the "prohibited" class.

I don't live in Canada...

[Outpost75]

I don't live in Canada...

But Ruger doesn't make different barrel lengths for US and Canada... Nor does S&W.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Some of us don't have rules for what barrel length you like; Do what suits you. I just like 6" bbl's for myself; Longer sight radius = more accuracy. YMMV tho. It helps that I'm a big guy so even an 8" bbl isn't "long" compared to me :P (Friend who worked at the LGS years ago bought an HK 94 and was commenting that it looked pistol-like when I held it up like one. I chuckled :))

Interesting info, I wanted to ask, if I do get a newer S&W, who sells the lock hole covers? (No kids here, if my pets develop opposable thumbs I'm in BIG trouble but it hasn't happened yet.)

[Walkingwolf]

But Ruger doesn't make different barrel lengths for US and Canada... Nor does S&W.

So I don't buy models that fit my needs, it is really simple. OTH Taurus does.

[Outpost75]

So I don't buy models that fit my needs, it is really simple. OTH Taurus does.

Good luck with your Taurus. Lots of QA issues...

I won't own one, don't know any retired LE who do or any reputable gunsmiths who will work on one.

[evoevil]

S&W 57 was my first pistol. Had it for 38 years. Still love it.

[murf205]

Good luck with your Taurus. Lots of QA issues...

I won't own one, don't know any retired LE who do or any reputable gunsmiths who will work on one.
Ditto that! I owned 1 and that was enough. For the life of me, I cant remember if it was a 4.1 or a 4", lol.

[tazman]

Good luck with your Taurus. Lots of QA issues...

I won't own one, don't know any retired LE who do or any reputable gunsmiths who will work on one.

I guess I'm just lucky then. The Taurus Tracker 627 revolver I own has had several thousand rounds through it with no issues. It even shoots cast well.
I also have a PT92 that has about 700 rounds through it with no issues.
I haven't tried the other versions so can't remark about them.

[megasupermagnum]

Just to finish, I did end up buying a brand new S&W model 57, $825 out the door, taxes and everything. I have to say, I am a little disappointed, but so far I feel better than if I had spent $1200+ on a used gun. The blueing is nice enough, no complaints there. There are some strange marks on the muzzle, like it was scratched while handling, but the crown seems ok. The grips fit tight, but the design is garbage. They are about 1" wide, they won't do much for recoil. I already have a set of Altamont bateleur grips on the way. As far as fit and finish goes, my biggest complaint is the stamping on the right side. It says "Made in USA, Smith and Wesson, Springfield, MA" or something like that. I'm not sure if it's a stamp or engraving, but one side is significantly deeper than the other side. Purely cosmetic, but a very obvious one. So far the muzzle scratches bother me more, but they can be fixed with a little cold blue.

I didn't expect a great trigger, but wow, this thing is horrible! Double action is acceptable, but stacks quite a bit. Single action is unacceptable. I have no pull gauge, but it would be at home on a shotgun. Probably about 5 pounds, and very creepy. It is pretty consistent though. Pull, tick (you can feel not hear), pull, tick, pull, click (hammer falls)! I have not had the gun apart yet, I'm going to make sure the thing works before doing any mods.

I slugged the bore, but I'm never too confident on 5 groove barrels. Using a strip of aluminum to wrap the bullet, and subtracting the thickness, I get a groove of about .408". Kind of odd, being as 41 mags are usually about as consistent as you get. I'm not sure I'd trust that 100%, as that slug is still a snug fit in the throats, which I used pin gauges to determine were .410". A .411" bullet will not go through unless I really force it, but a .410 J word fits perfect. Not a big deal, worst case I lap the throats to .411". I think a ball or egg sinker that I won't have to pound through so much might give a more accurate reading than the bullet I used.

Accuracy is yet to be seen, as I am going to have to size my bullets down to .410" first.

Overall so far, I'm reasonably happy. I don't think it's worth the price I paid, but the used guns certainly are not worth it either, except to collectors. I did find 2 used model 57's I came close to buying, and I'm glad I didn't now. After having the trigger fixed, I bet I'll have a nice shooting gun, that is lighter, more compact, and WAY nicer on the eyes than the Ruger SuperRedhawk. I never did shoot a Redhawk, but have to think if Ruger offered a blued 5.5" barrel Redhawk, I would buy one.

[Drm50]

A brand new 57? What is the model number and dash number? A brand new 57 or 57-1 around
here with box, docs, and tools would be north of $1200 for sure.

[megasupermagnum]

It is a brand new 57-6, straight off the production line. I went and looked at a 57 no dash. It was a nice gun, but they guy was asking $1600, and I couldn't talk him down at all, even with a trade. The other was in a gun shop, I got a call that a gun I'd like came in. It was a 57-2, it had rubber grips, holster wear, there was even a spot of rust by the trigger guard. After talking to the owner, he came down from $1200 to $1100. I really thought about it, but now I'm glad I did not. In a real world, that would be a $500 gun. I just don't understand Smith and Wesson prices, and probably never will.

I got the new grips on, and don't like them too much. It seems finger groove grips always want to put your hand too low. I'm going to try the Herrett "Jordan Trooper" next.

[Petrol & Powder]

The problem with grips that have finger grooves is that the grooves are either perfectly located or they are not.

The closest I've ever come to being happy with full sized finger groove grips was with the S&W factory combat grips.

The Herrett "Jordan Trooper" grips will probably work for you.

[megasupermagnum]

I agree, I have a number of fingered rubber grips that fit well, especially on my SP101. I don't think I've ever found wood ones that fit though. I shot it this weekend, and lo and behold, the trigger improved more than imaginable. The double action lightened up some, and the single action went from the worst handgun trigger I have by far, to one that is not too bad. It has got to be close to half the pull weight, and a lot of the creep is gone. I shot about 40 single action, and 40 double action. I was only shooting offhand to get familiar with the gun, but the accuracy seems to be better than I am. This weekend I'll try some groups.

[dogdoc]

Shoot a few hundred rounds of jacketed bullets through it before starting to shoot cast. It will smooth things out in barrel.Mine shoots great and trigger will smooth out with time and lube.

[dogdoc]

Arsenal moulds makes a great Keith bullet mould in 41. I have been working some loads up for mine with that bullet. With jacketed bullets, the hornady xtp shoots great with 2400 powder even with less than full power loads. Of course 2400 seems to produce accurate loads in all the magnum calibers. As a side note, Smith’s from all generations will have minor cosmetic imperfections as I have many , especially the 1980s vintage. Do not worry about that, you got a strong shooter that I doubt you will ever wear out and a lifetime warranty.

[megasupermagnum]

I have about 300 old Remington 210 gr jacketed soft points I'll probably burn up in this gun. That should smooth things out. I've been shooting a SWC bullet from GT bullets, that I think is a NOE mold, 228 grains, over 13 grains of Bluedot for 1200fps. For whatever reason, I never did find a 41 caliber mold that I found worth buying. I've got a drawing of exactly what I want, but have yet to hear back from any company about producing it. I may post it up for a possible group buy. It is basically the NOE 412459 mold with a little bigger meplat (.28") and a little bigger front driving band. If nothing else, I'll just settle for a slightly less than square front shoulder and buy from Accurate.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Arsenal molds will make a custom mold for you.
They made a 200gr SWC for me...they do excellent work.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354699-Review-Custom-boolit-mold-from-Arsenal-Molds&highlight=

[SyberShooter]

I collected S&W for a number of years and there are several niches to explore. I bought at the 95% and better price point, now I'm trying to get rid of many of them before my wife has to give them away 8-)... The hi-grade collector guns are pricey but the shooters with holster wear on the barrel, obvious wear on the cylinder and grips shouldn't cost any more than other used guns- although may dealers try to get a premium just for the S&W name. A lot of the pricing depends on the era they were produced and who owned the company at the time often equates to quality of those guns- many stay away from the 70's and 80's guns due to various problems- that is why you need to know the various details. Pre-57 guns are a whole different category and are often considered some of the best modern models.

There are a number of problems you have to watch out for such as 'push-off' (bubba trigger job) and a sprung yoke (crane bent from flipping the cylinder closed as seen on TV) and then there is the little burr on the top of the side plate where someone opened it up incorrectly- know these things and you will stay away from a lot of overpriced problem guns...

[megasupermagnum]

Arsenal molds will make a custom mold for you.
They made a 200gr SWC for me...they do excellent work.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354699-Review-Custom-boolit-mold-from-Arsenal-Molds&highlight=

I had emailed Arsenal, but never got a response. I'll try calling tomorrow.

[kgb]

I keep looking at the S&W 16-4 and they're up there a ways. Not produced for many years, so that makes some sense. It's about to the point where I would not pay what's required to get any of the guns I used to own that were purchased when the prices weren't so inflated. Trading a silly-priced gun for a different silly-priced gun makes about the most sense to me now.

[Petrol & Powder]

In general the model 16's go for a lot of money simply because there were not a lot of them made in comparison to the other models. The dash 4 variant came out in 1977.

The other factor that drives the price up are the collectors that attempt to acquire an example of every model. If you are looking for one of the less popular models to fill that gap in your collection, you will pay more than someone that just wants a shooter. Collector's interest can drive the price of pristine rarer models into the stratosphere.

The value of something is only what someone else will give you for it. I don't begrudge collectors for engaging in their pursuits but just because someone else will pay a high price for an item doesn't mean I will.
When someone asks a high price for a gun and attempts to justify that price by claiming the gun has collectors value, my response is, "find a collector that wants it".
I'm not being rude, I'm just not in the same market.

[megasupermagnum]

In general the model 16's go for a lot of money simply because there were not a lot of them made in comparison to the other models. The dash 4 variant came out in 1977.

The other factor that drives the price up are the collectors that attempt to acquire an example of every model. If you are looking for one of the less popular models to fill that gap in your collection, you will pay more than someone that just wants a shooter. Collector's interest can drive the price of pristine rarer models into the stratosphere.

The value of something is only what someone else will give you for it. I don't begrudge collectors for engaging in their pursuits but just because someone else will pay a high price for an item doesn't mean I will.
When someone asks a high price for a gun and attempts to justify that price by claiming the gun has collectors value, my response is, "find a collector that wants it".
I'm not being rude, I'm just not in the same market.

I say just let them have them. My brand new S&W trigger has improved a ton from brand new, and seems to shoot well. I have yet to sit down and shoot groups off a rest. I see no reason the brand new S&W's are not every bit as good as the old. All you have to do is ignore or delete the internal lock. I plan to take mine out, but so far I could care less.

$825 brand new out the door or $1200+ for a half decent used gun. Now that i know the differences between the new and old guns, the choice is so obviously clear, I don't know why anybody besides a collector would buy used.

[kgb]

Buying used to get something they do not make currently is something you could know.