3D printer questions?

[bikerbeans]

I am currently loading 3d sabots I received from a friend on another forum. I have not touched a CAD program in 10 years and my experience was limited to 2d envirnomental site plans.

Ok, so what do you 3D wizards suggest for equipment and software for a rank novice? I am primarily interested in printing wads and sabots for shotguns and muzzleloaders.

Also, what are your thoughts on which plastic to use for sabots and wads?

Thanks,

BB

[Cap'n Morgan]

I only have experience with the professional (read: expensive) programs like SolidWorks, but I would suggest you look into some of the free 3-D programs like Google's SketchUp Free. Here's a list of some 3-D freebies: https://www.lifewire.com/free-3d-software-list-2005

Best plastic would probably be Polyethylene (PE) or polypropylene (PP) both are used in commercial wads.

[Mr_Sheesh]

I usually use OpenSCAD, it is sort of a programmers' 3D CAD tool, free. I find it easier to use than Sketchup for my purposes, but your mileage may vary. (Some things just depend on the user, not saying anything bad about Sketchup, it's very popular - it's just that my brain deals better with OpenSCAD.)

[BigMrTong]

Software wise I use RS Designsparck Mechanical as its easy to use and free.
https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-software

Printer wise any i3 clone is a good start. Cheap printers and time tested with good community support as very popular.

[jeremy360]

I like solidworks and have a copy. Some like sketchup as mentioned above.

[bstone5]

Use SolidWorks for 3-D models. Have made a lot of sheet metal parts and plastic parts using SolidWorks. Have used the program for many years as an engineer, now retired still use it a lot at the house and have my own copies of SolidWorks and AutoCad Mechanical.

[bikerbeans]

Anyone have experience printing with nylon filament? After reviewing the specs on the many filament types it seems that nylon may be a good choice for a slug wad. I couldn't find PP or PE filament.

Turns out a good friend of mine who owns a metallizing company has a 3D system for printing client STLs. I create the file and he will print it.

BB

[BigMrTong]

Yes, Nylon is a nightmare to handle and print. It absorbs water like a sponge.

[Bulldogger]

I enjoy using 123D CAD, but it is no longer available with design support. The company letting 123D go as free ware was sold and the new owners upgraded 123D into a for-fee version, and made a dumbed down version as an online-only tool, called TinkerCAD.
However, you can download 123D from the WayBackMachine, if needed. I did that when I bought a new computer and realized the program was gone from freeware. Worked fine using the wayback.

I have not printed nylon. I have heard what the other above say, it is expensive, has toxic fumes, and needs careful humidity care and storage. I recommend something else, unless you've good ventilation and are stubborn enough to follow the process for using nylon. I have decided to not bother, at least for the time being.

Bulldogger

[Cap'n Morgan]

I noticed you can get High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS) for 3-D print. I had some wads for my Brenneke injection molded from HIPS and they held up extremely well.

[bkbville]

Unless you're only looking for prototyping the wads,(and then having them made using injection molding for example) I think you'll be disappointed in current 3D printing technology for printing wads. Printing 3D is slow, and a bit imprecise in tolerances, and you will need to consider the material properties in both design and use.

For simple, and easy to use, tinkercad is web-based and free. I like OpenSCAD (also free), but its oriented toward programmers rather than artists. FreeCAD is as powerful as stuff you pay for, but is a bit more complex than, say tinkercad.

[bikerbeans]

I noticed you can get High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS) for 3-D print. I had some wads for my Brenneke injection molded from HIPS and they held up extremely well.

Thank you for that information.

BB

[Mr_Sheesh]

Suggestion; Instead of 3d printing each wad, look at making a mold and getting the wads injection molded once you've prototyped the design; far faster per unit you make. Urethane is relatively easy to cast, unsure how well it'd work for 12ga wads but worth looking at; Look at local model train groups for access to cheap injection etc. molds as they usually have found someone local who is willing, for train scale model stuff (landscaping etc. for their train layout.) You can get a lot of injection molded or cast parts produced in the same time as 1 3d printed part; 3d printing shines in prototyping one-offs though, molding one new wad variant would be NUTS! :p

[bikerbeans]

I like the idea of the 3D printer because I can make changes easily compared to a mold. If i happen to create a miracle wad I might consider letting someone else use the design for a production wad. I have owned a couple small businesses and if i ever start another one it will not be in the gun & ammo industry.

Another thought on a mold. I have 3 rifled 12ga shotguns and all three have a different groove diameter. Rifled slug guns are just big bore low pressure rifles and they behave like rifles. Your FB slug or sabored bullet must have a OD at or over the groove diameter. A mold for the masses would need to be oversize to work in loose barrels, but this might be a problem if shot in a tight barrel gun.

Myself, I doubt I will shoot more than a couple hundred saboted slugs and fullbore slugs in a year. I think a 3D printer will more than keep up.

I did shoot a 3 shot 2.25" 60 yard group today with a 12ga x 44 cal sabot using a 325g JFN bullet. Big improvement over first testing session, but a long way yet to go.

BB

[BigMrTong]

It’s not worth it for me, I shoot about 100 to 200 slugs a month and it only takes a few hours to print them and I don’t have to babysit it. It also lets me play with new designs and tweaks easily.


Suggestion; Instead of 3d printing each wad, look at making a mold and getting the wads injection molded once you've prototyped the design; far faster per unit you make. Urethane is relatively easy to cast, unsure how well it'd work for 12ga wads but worth looking at; Look at local model train groups for access to cheap injection etc. molds as they usually have found someone local who is willing, for train scale model stuff (landscaping etc. for their train layout.) You can get a lot of injection molded or cast parts produced in the same time as 1 3d printed part; 3d printing shines in prototyping one-offs though, molding one new wad variant would be NUTS! :p

[Mr_Sheesh]

If you made wads with deep enough "lube grooves" they could engrave in the rifling & handle different barrel ID's I'd think.