Copper gas check on the back of a full bore slug for rifled choke

[jeremy360]

Instead of hot glue, wax, or bar top epoxy...would a copper gas check be better? I would think the copper would help control the expansion and swelling of the base. It also wouldnt "strip" as easy as lead. This would be for full bore slugs and only if the slug did not spin inside the gas check. Thinking full bore lyman 525 style. not sure how it would help or hurt the weight distribution.

I read where someone here used doublesided sandpaper discs to keep the wad from spinning on saboted slugs with good results. Wonder if that would help in a smooth bore/rifled choke scenario. I am assuming there's a reason this didn't become popular?

[Hogtamer]

The Lyman is an in-wad slug.

[bikerbeans]

I think a slug or bullet shot out of a rifled barrel spins inside a sabot or wad because the fit is too loose in the bore. IMO, the push through test for bore fit of a slug/wad only applies to a smoothbore barrel.

My personal experience with rifled choke tubes was not good. I think the idea of trying to rotate a heavy slug once it has reached near maximum velocity is a poor concept. The fact that the commercial tubes have fairly fast twist rates and shallow rifling doesn't help. When Longbow finishes his slow twist, deep rifled choke tube maybe we will learn the concept is good, but modern execution has been poor.

BB

[longbow]

I am hoping to get around to ordering a choke tube adapter from Brownells shortly if they will ship to Canada. Once that is silver soldered to the barrel then I can bore and rifle a tight turkey choke or a blank choke tube.

That will be my quickest and easiest option... not that this has been anything near quick! I started 3 years ago and built the rifling machine then rifled some 3/4" pipe and that's where it ended for a variety of reasons not all gun related. Life just got in the way.

I believe the concept is good since Vincent Fosbery proved it worked with Paradox rifling and many other gun makers followed the H&H Paradox type of gun. I do wish I knew what twist they used but so far I have read about the two extremes... slow round ball twist and fast twist like for modern sabots. I believe in both cases though that rifling is quite deep. Certainly the photos I have seen show deep rifling.

Not sure if it will work for wad slugs but certainly should for full bore balls or slugs.

I'm thinking BB is correct and that a slide fit for smoothbore is likely too loose for rifled gun and wad slug unless rifling is quite deep.

All speculation on my part except for the fact that Paradox guns worked. 3" or deeply rifled choke did work. Now to get a side by to work as a poor man's double rifle is another trick altogether due to regulation issues. That's where the money comes in on double rifles... trial and error to get the barrels to shoot to near same point at "X" yards.

If my rifled choke tube works even if only for full bore slugs I'll be happy! What I'd really like is to be able to use 0.678" RB's in shotcups but if that is a no go I can live with it.

I am almost breaking down to buy a rifled gun or barrel and may do that but I'd still like to succeed with Brenneke type slugs in smoothbore or second best the rifled choke tube. If worst comes to worst, I'll go full rifled gun in the end I think.

Seems to me that was Ajay with the sand paper or emery cloth to keep slugs from rotating in wads.

Longbow