???? Small ring mauser questions

[toallmy]

I have always wanted to put a new barrel on a rifle , but I usually work out a decent shooting load and this stops me from doing it . Hopefully this will happen again with my new project , but only time will tell . I have a lot of questions about changing the barrel on mauser small ring receivers - I suspect a few gentlemen here may have done this in the past :razz: . For a wile I have been doing a little research on this , so now I'm really confused . It seems to simple to think I can just purchase a pre threatened short chamber barrel , screw it in the receiver , then finish the chamber to headspace it correctly . Is that kinda all it is to it ?

[LAGS]

Yes , you can remove the barrel and replace it with a Pre threaded short chambered barrel, set the headspace and you are ready to go.
But there are really a few more things that should be checked along the way.
Like the Bolt Lug engagement, maybe Lapping the Bolt lugs in, firing pin Protrusion, safety engagement, Trigger engagement or polishing the bolt Guides.
All these things can be done yourself, but may require an investment in a few more tools.
This is why many people shy away from someones Home Built Guns.
They do not know the Skill Level or the amount of experience and Knowledge of the builder.
So are you truly getting a rifle that is set up properly , and Fitted Correctly for all the effort you went thru to change the barrel and get maximum performance or Safety
This isn't like just putting a spare tire on a car.
There are things that need to be checked, especially on Old Guns, and ones that may not be the original parts.
And even so, other parts wear too, not just the barrel.

[toallmy]

I have never looked inside the front end of a receiver with the barrel removed , let alone lapping the lugs but it all seems doable . I looked into tools , it seems like I could rent just about anything I would need or just might need to pick up a action wrench and barrel vice . At this point it's just a thought , but very interesting .

[Texas by God]

It's doable and enjoyable. And this is the place to be for good advice from folks who do it a lot. What is your new project? We love pics.

[LAGS]

I would say that about 60% of the Mauser Receivers that I have rebarreled, especially the older softer Small Rings (with the exception of most of the Sweed's) the bolt lugs were not in Full contact, or one lug only was making contact.
Plus a lot of them had Lug Set Back.
Those conditions and be deceptive on setting the headspace.
IE
If you have a bolt that is only getting contact on one bolt lug, and you set the headspace.
If that one sets back because of a more powerful caliber, or it just wears in, the headspace can increase down the road.
Setting up the rifle action correctly will give you many more years of service, and sometimes, improper bolt lug seating can effect accuracy.

[toallmy]

Incoming on Tuesday - I'll be the proud owner of a small ring mauser chambered in 7x57 that I intend to shoot cast boolits out of exclusively . A member hear is sending me a sample of nicely over sized boollits to try , that he has been achieving good results with . After a good try as is , the other option is a new barrel , I have always wanted to do that anyway . When I get it I will put up some pictures , as of now I only know it's a small ring with the gas hole on the left of the receiver / no cut out for thumb on left side , I will remove the scope mount and chopped wood looking for identifying marks as soon as I receive it .

[toallmy]

I have read many of the threads and post that you gentlemen have been involved in , that has inspired me to at least consider it . Until a couple years ago I thought rebarrling your own rifle was vodo or witchcraft , that was to be left to the professional's , several months waiting several hundred dollars and it might be more accurate , or not .

[wmitty]

Rebarreled my M93 and I shortened the size die to allow case to fit the chamber. I liked the chamber as it was cut and don't use factory ammunition anyway so saved the rental on a finish reamer.

[toallmy]

I think that is a good idea wmitty , in most of my cast Boolit loading I would be better off with less case volume . I have so many questions I hardly know where to start . But here is one I haven't found the answer to yet . I have the basic understanding of how to finish the chamber but does that throat the barrel in front of the neck , and are there options on the length of throat before actually getting into the rifling ? There is a big difference in a little 120 gr bullet or a 160 gr Boolit .

[john.k]

A basic chamber reamer will finish the throat to standard specs.Your "short chambered" barrel will have such a chamber.......Separate chamber and throat reamers is custom gunsmithing not normally expected on a surplus Spanish 93.

[toallmy]

Got it , I guess the start is to give the old rifle a thrashing with a cleaning brush , then check function , and safety . Seams fun .

[mpkunz]

If you want to do Mausers, and I love Mausers, I would recommend the Ronald Walsh book on the Mauser rifles. I bought it 20 years ago and followed its very simple instructions with my then high school age son Josh. We built him a .30-'06 following the chapters presented in the Walsh book and around 2005 he used that rifle to win his first competition, shooting against high end custom Remington 700 actions and whatever else was available at the time. He put 5 consecutive rounds onto the steel at 1,836 yards and won the competition (I know not where) and gained his first commercial sponsor. Today he runs Patriot Valley Arms and himself builds custom rifles that win over and over again. Last November 5th I took a mule deer in Montana with a 6.5 Creedmoor built on a Rem 700 action that he built for me - at 883 yards, a lifetime long range best for me.

[toallmy]

Mpkunz wile cruising the archives , I found a down loadable version of the book by Ronald Walsh The Mauser Rifle that a member shared with us .

[toallmy]

I understand the small ring receiver , does not have the shoulder inside of the receiver - the barrel stops on the front of the receiver , the bolt lugs hold the cartridge into the chamber and if probably fit - the lugs will both make contact with the back of the recess cut when a go gage is inserted . OK what do you do when they don't ( Is this what is called lug set back ) I think this is corrected by removing a small amount from the back of the barrel or the front of the receiver . I understand if you take a bit off the back of the barrel you must take that much off of in front of the threaded area as well but how do you know when the barrel is screwed in the proper distance ? Does it contact the bolt face ?????? As you gentlemen have probably noticed I am lacking in both the understanding of the interior workings of a mauser action , and the ability to ask the proper questions . So I'm gonna ask the question as I would if you were sitting at the kitchen table with me - when you screw that barrel in does it hit something so you know that's where it is suppose to be .

[john.k]

You answer your own question,then ask it again.The dimensions come from the barrel taken out...this is the only reliable indicator,unless you have prior experience with the particular type of action.As to the LH lug making contact,this is to protect the extractor from damage in dry working the bolt,as army types are prone to do in training.When the rifle was made in the factory,dimensions were taken from the design drawings,as is the case in any precision machining operation.

[John 242]

Here's what I understand and my attempt to answer your questions to the best of my ability. I highly recommend that you don't trust me, or anyone else blindly without cross checking or seeking expert advise.


I understand the small ring receiver , does not have the shoulder inside of the receiver - the barrel stops on the front of the receiver

Correct, the 93s, 95s, 96s do not have an inner barrel torque shoulder. The shoulder on the threaded shank butts up against the face of the receiver.


... the bolt lugs hold the cartridge into the chamber and if probably fit - the lugs will both make contact with the back of the recess cut when a go gage is inserted... OK what do you do when they don't
Some people will use lapping compound and spring loaded tool to increase the bolt's locking lug contact. This can have unwanted consequences. Lapping compound doesn't lap the lugs square (perpendicular) to the receiver. Lapping removes metal from the receiver as well as the bolt and too much lapping can cause damage. Kuhnhausen calls for 95% contact, but if your lugs are way out of wack, don't try to lap them to get 95% contact. Something else is not right.

Another way (better?) to ensure both lugs make contact is to machine the rear of the bolt's locking lugs on a lathe with a bolt jig. As I understand it, Mauser bolts are case hardened and that hardening varies in thickness. If you lap or cut through that hardening, you'll increase wear on the locking lugs.

Lapping or facing the locking lugs increases headspace and the barrel needs to be set back (adjusted rearwards) accordingly.


( Is this what is called lug set back )[?]
Locking lug set back can occur at the spot where the bolt's locking lugs contact the receiver under recoil. The bolt/receiver lug engagement surface is beaten backwards (battered, displaced, peened) by the locking lugs, causing shallow depressions. This can happen over decades of shooting, can happen quickly if subjected to higher than normal pressures, or not at all. A soft receiver may show set back with standard loads. Kuhnhausen says .002 of set back is the max allowable and lists several reasons at to why. Normal burnishing and wear is okay. More wear on the top or bottom can indicate one lug is making more contact than the other. You can only see (and measure) this with the barrel off and looking down from the face of the receiver at the 12:00 and 6:00 o'clock positions.




I think this is corrected by removing a small amount from the back of the barrel or the front of the receiver.
No. Removing material from the shoulder of the threaded shank moves the breach face backwards and decreases headspace and the barrel shank gets closer to the FRONT of the locking lugs. Same thing happens if you remove material from the face of the receiver.


I understand if you take a bit off the back of the barrel you must take that much off of in front of the threaded area as well but how do you know when the barrel is screwed in the proper distance ?Does it contact the bolt face ?
No. See above. Measure from the face of the receiver to the FRONT face of the split locking lug. Subtract .005 (a few thou. for clearance and crush) from that number and that is your threaded shank length. Another option is to use the numbers listed in several different books. My books shows the threaded shank length should be a nominal .645-inch.


As you gentlemen have probably noticed I am lacking in both the understanding of the interior workings of a mauser action , and the ability to ask the proper questions . So I'm gonna ask the question as I would if you were sitting at the kitchen table with me - when you screw that barrel in does it hit something so you know that's where it is suppose to be .

Yes, the shoulder of threaded shank hits the face of the receiver. There is clearance between the front face of the recoil lug and the rear of the barrel (see above).

I hope this helps. Please bear in mind that this is how I understand these rifles work and how they work. These are the best to answer I can give, based on how I understand your questions. I may be wrong and/or there may be a better way of doing things. If I am wrong, I hope someone will point out my errors so we can both learn.

The are a few things I skipped over and a few I've probably forgotten. I highly recommend picking up a copy of "The Mauser M91 Through M98" by Jerry Kuhnhausen. Although not perfect, it's a great place to start for Mauser info.

[ulav8r]

Mpkunz wile cruising the archives , I found a down loadable version of the book by Ronald Walsh The Mauser Rifle that a member shared with us .

Searched for that post. The search found 17 threads but no link to the book.

[john.k]

before doing anything with an early Mauser ,consider this.......for ease of production,the chamber is cut shorter than the case,so the extractor cut of the case is unsupported....If you have a blowout from the primer pocket,gas will inflate the ring ,resulting in a monumental blowup.This is the whole reason for the "partition " in the 98 action.....escaping gas is directed to the right ,blowing the extractor thru the ring,without harm to a right handed firer....

[toallmy]

It is slowly sinking in , but I think I'm getting a grasp of how it all goes together . I appreciate you gentlemen taking the time to work with me on understanding the inter workings , and how it all goes together .

[toallmy]

Does the hole in the left side of the receiver , vent the escaping gas on some small ring receivers also ?

[toallmy]

Ulav8r ill go back and try to find it again .

[Dutchman]

I have never looked inside the front end of a receiver with the barrel removed , let alone lapping the lugs but it all seems doable . I looked into tools , it seems like I could rent just about anything I would need or just might need to pick up a action wrench and barrel vice . At this point it's just a thought , but very interesting .

This is a 1895 Chilean with the threads machined off. Displays bolt lug set-back.

217658

[toallmy]

I see at the top and bottom the indentation , if that is more than a few thousandth is it considered unsafe ?

[justashooter]

Does the hole in the left side of the receiver , vent the escaping gas on some small ring receivers also ?

some small ting mausers have a safety vent. the post 1919 spanish 93 types are a common example.

[ulav8r]

I see at the top and bottom the indentation , if that is more than a few thousandth is it considered unsafe ?

Not necessarily unsafe, but it needs to be fixed if possible. The lug seating area needs to be cut flat and then checked for hardness. Most likely it will need to be re-heat treated by one of the few companies that offer heat treating of military surplus actions, such as Blanchards in SLC. There was one in Denver in the mid-70's, but I never knew their name.

If the action was sufficiently hard the lugs should not have set back. As I said, not necessarily unsafe but it can\will make the bolt hard to open after firing as the bolt has to force the expanded case into the chamber to gain clearance. At CST in the 70's, all Mauser actions brought in by customers were re-heat treated. If a student brought in their own action to work own, they were required to check the lug seat if they did not want to heat treat.

[Pirate69]

That is an excellent example. A picture is worth a 1,000 words, really.


This is a 1895 Chilean with the threads machined off. Displays bolt lug set-back.

217658

[Pirate69]

I think others may jump in here with advice as well on barrel cleaning. With a good cleaning, you may find a barrel that shoots cast boolits very well. The secret is a clean barrel. Some of these military rifles have lots of copper in them and it will take some effort to get it out. Over the years, I have used an electronic system to remove it, compounds such as Sweets and a common ammonia cleaned that was pulled up into the barrel as a cleaning patch was moved up and down. Method depended on how bad the copper filing was. The old powder residue can be a task in its own right and lots of solvent cleaning may be needed before you start to clean the copper out. At the end of the day, you may end up with a clean barrel that is dark or somewhat pitted. But that does not mean it will not shoot cast boolits well. Sometimes you can get very lucky.


Got it , I guess the start is to give the old rifle a thrashing with a cleaning brush , then check function , and safety . Seams fun .

[toallmy]

I finally picked it up yesterday evening , but after work I was to beat to do anything except look it over a bit . I will try to get some pictures . Seams whoever had it previously did their best to take care of it .

[toallmy]

First trip out today i ran a couple 5 shot group's with jacket bullets at lowest book charge - the 120 gr Hornady loads were a complete failure , but the Hornady 154 gr were not to bad . I sorta expected that outcome with .284 sized jacket bullets but the good news is the cast boolits a kind member sent me did pretty good to start with . I just loaded up a few rounds with 10 grain of unique to get the feel of them , and i could probably cover the group with a clay pigeon at 100 yards . So I'm going to play with it for a little while before I decide what to do about the barrel , but the cut up wood is going to be replaced rather soon . Anyway here is what it looks like .

[Texas by God]

It looks to have potential. 10 shots in a clay bird at 100 is a good start. How about close ups?

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[toallmy]

I ordered a Ramline or its Champion now plastic stock and a Timmy 2-4 lb trigger that came in Friday , I'm not shore what I am going to do about the barrel yet it seams to have strong riffing so I am going to give it a whole hearted try before changing it . It's going to be a ongoing project so I'm going to relax and enjoy tinkering with this old mauser .

[toallmy]

Well I finally got back to shooting my 7x57 , and I ran into a problem I had completely forgotten about .
When I first took it out for a try the scope was cranked all the way UP and all the way to the LEFT . With the adjustments maxed out it was still not even close , but I just wanted to shoot a few groups so I left it alone and tried it . I completely forgot about this until yesterday when I mounted the scope back on the rifle and took it out back to sight it in .
I took the scope off this past spring thinking it was the problem and mounted it on a side mount lever action to check it's adjustments . I had completely forgotten about it wile having a good time playing with my 30-30 . Now I'm happy with my cast loads in my trusty 30-30 so I removed the side mount to install a Redfield sight on the lever action . Now due to the offset scope mount on a top eject lever rifle I decided to center the adjustments before mounting the scope on the mauser completely forgetting the past adjustment issue .
It took a couple rounds through the mauser before it came back to me - with the scope adjustments centered it's kicking dirt off to the right in front of the target at 50 yards completely missing a 3x3 ft piece of cardboard .
So yesterday I spent the day fiddling with assorted materials to shim the base + work out the windage issues . I'm going to give it a try latter today .

[toallmy]

The shim got the elevation worked out , but I'm only half way done with the windage , but at least it's on a regular sheet of paper now at a 100 yards .
I have had a couple rifles drilled and tapped for mounting a scope in the past that turned out just like this one .

[justashooter]

some small ting mausers have a safety vent. the post 1919 spanish 93 types are a common example.

these typically have a SN that begins with a capital letter, like "H".

[Hannibal]

I bought a K98 Mauser action, a used Bishop stock, and an unfired Zastava M70 take -off barrel in .308Win. Threaded the barrel into the action and torqued it, checked headspace with go and no-go gauges, it was perfect.
Installed the Bishop stock with the trigger guard that came with the action, perfect fit.
Action was already drilled and tapped. Installed a one piece Leupold base and a Leupold 3x9x40 VX-II. Bore sighted scope.
Grabbed a box of Winchester PSP 150 grain and proceeded to put 10 just under 3/4" @100 yds.

What are the odds?

My point is, this does not NECESSARILY have to be a big deal.

[richhodg66]

You should order one of the six cavity "soup can" molds from Midsouth. I've shot a bunch of those in my 7x57 with good results using 10 grains of Green Dot and, since I ran out of Green Dot, 10 grains of 700X. I size mine to .287, and that barely polishes the sides of ones that drop from my mold. Good bullet and with a six cavity aluminum mold, you can stack up a lot of them quickly.

[pressonregardless]

Ulav8r ill go back and try to find it again .

Here it is - SciFiJim saved it for us.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ruvrr88tz36urje/%5BR.A._Walsh%5D_Mauser_M98__M96.pdf?dl=0

[pietro]

First trip out today i ran a couple 5 shot group's with jacket bullets at lowest book charge - the 120 gr Hornady loads were a complete failure , but the Hornady 154 gr were not to bad .

I sorta expected that outcome with .284 sized jacket bullets but the good news is the cast boolits a kind member sent me did pretty good to start with .

I just loaded up a few rounds with 10 grain of unique to get the feel of them , and i could probably cover the group with a clay pigeon at 100 yards.




What was the weight of the cast boolitt that did well ?

My milsurp 7x57's all preferred a heavy boolitt, like 175gr & heavier, most likely due to the rifling twist rate.


.

[ulav8r]

pressonregardless, Thanks for the link.

[toallmy]

What was the weight of the cast boolitt that did well ?

My milsurp 7x57's all preferred a heavy boolitt, like 175gr & heavier, most likely due to the rifling twist rate.


.

NOE 291-170 FN sized at .289 I keep banging my head against the wall trying to make lighter cast boolits shoot good . I run into all sorts of problems mostly from my own decisions like sizing to .289 to fill the bore - just barely sizes the gas checks enough to hold them on when sizing them through my magma sizer without the lube pushing the checks off .
The easiest thing for me to do would be heavy cast boolits , or barrel change , but I do things wrong or harder over and over just to prove to myself I'm thick headed . It's for fun right !

[toallmy]

I ordered a short chamber small ring replacement barrel from midway in 7x57 on December 26 it arrived this morning . Now I wish I had stripped the rifle down to soak the receiver in some some ATF / kerosene mix when I finally decided to take it apart . I am interested in what the receiver looks like inside , as members have explained potential lug problems to look for .
I know this project is probably not a big deal for many members that have been changing barrels for generations + I'm cheating starting with a short chamber , but if I can do it safely anyone can .

[skeettx]

OK, maybe I missed it, small ring mauser 7mm
Is it a 93, or 95 or 98? Turk? Who and what
Thanks
Mike

[toallmy]

OK, maybe I missed it, small ring mauser 7mm
Is it a 93, or 95 or 98? Turk? Who and what
Thanks
Mike

I'm not sure the receiver has been scrubbed , but it's not the Turkish lg ring with small thread .

[skeettx]

Is it cock on closing or cock on opening?
Can you post a picture of the rear of the bolt?
also a picture of the front face of the bolt?
Thank you
Happy New Year

[toallmy]

I believe it's cock on closing , but just because it seams to be spring loaded the last 1/4 inch or so when closing the bolt . I'm going to try posting some clear photos .

[john.k]

Look inside the ring......can you clearly see the whole rear of the barrel?..if so its not a 98..............in a 98 there is a partition that the barrel seats on.

[Hannibal]

I believe it's cock on closing , but just because it seams to be spring loaded the last 1/4 inch or so when closing the bolt . I'm going to try posting some clear photos .

Observe the cocking piece. If it moves rearward upon lifting the bolt handle, it's a cock on open. If the cocking piece remains stationary until lowering the bolt handle, it's a cock on close. If you aren't sure what the cocking piece is, a quick Google search should be quite helpful.

[leadman]

Prior to trying to remove a Mauser barrel I soak the receiver in a plastic container from the isotope lead and fill with paint thinner, which is mineral spirits. Leave it about a week and it does make it much easier to remove the barrel.
I read your comments on the scope issues and think that you should check the drilling and tapping job on the top of the receiver. Make sure the holes are centered in the receiver and also do not go into the top locking lug area of the receiver for the bolt. Is the bolt handle bent down like a commercial sporter or like a military carbine? I ask because of the height of the scope mounts. It can be difficult to get a good cheek weld on the stock depending on how the gun fits you.

[john.k]

Because of the softness of old actions,be very careful not to crush the ring if the barrel is tight......you might also consider a relief cut,if the action is a pre 98.......an arbor should be fitted in the boltway,even if you use wrench blocks.

[GregLaROCHE]

It’s surprising how many videos there are out, about professional gunsmiths redoing Remington receiver barrel fits. Is Remington really that bad or is it really that hard to get right?

[Texas by God]

It’s surprising how many videos there are out, about professional gunsmiths redoing Remington receiver barrel fits. Is Remington really that bad or is it really that hard to get right?
Remington puts them on right. But people pay to have them "righter" for a real or perceived need for the nth degree of accuracy. Even the lowly m710/770 has a good accuracy reputation.

[toallmy]

Look inside the ring......can you clearly see the whole rear of the barrel?..if so its not a 98..............in a 98 there is a partition that the barrel seats on.

It's definitely a small ring mauser , but I'm not sure 93-95 .

[toallmy]

Observe the cocking piece. If it moves rearward upon lifting the bolt handle, it's a cock on open. If the cocking piece remains stationary until lowering the bolt handle, it's a cock on close. If you aren't sure what the cocking piece is, a quick Google search should be quite helpful.

I have the rifle stripped down to just a barrel in the receiver right now hanging in the basement with the chamber plugged and filled with a mix of ATF / Kerosene over the threaded section hopping to make it easier to remove the barrel without twisting the action , but I will keep trying to post pictures of the bolt .

[toallmy]

Prior to trying to remove a Mauser barrel I soak the receiver in a plastic container from the isotope lead and fill with paint thinner, which is mineral spirits. Leave it about a week and it does make it much easier to remove the barrel.
I read your comments on the scope issues and think that you should check the drilling and tapping job on the top of the receiver. Make sure the holes are centered in the receiver and also do not go into the top locking lug area of the receiver for the bolt. Is the bolt handle bent down like a commercial sporter or like a military carbine? I ask because of the height of the scope mounts. It can be difficult to get a good cheek weld on the stock depending on how the gun fits you.
I took a look the holes are not through the lug area in the receiver the forward most hole is in the threaded section I hope the barrel was removed before it was drilled and tapped .

[toallmy]

Because of the softness of old actions,be very careful not to crush the ring if the barrel is tight......you might also consider a relief cut,if the action is a pre 98.......an arbor should be fitted in the boltway,even if you use wrench blocks.

This really concerns me - the twisting of the receiver . If it seems to not want to let go I will have a friend do a relief cut in front of the receiver on his lathe , but I'm going to try removing the barrel with the action wrench and home made barrel vice first . But right now I just have the receiver soaking , hopefully to saturate the threaded section with a lubricant .

[toallmy]

Gentlemen I really appreciate all your help and advice alone the way . I apologize for my lack in ability to post pictures .

[GregLaROCHE]

Maybe a good penetrating oil would work better. Let it sit for a week. If you’re not keeping the barrel. Think about cutting it off, leaving enough to hold on to and putting it in a basin of penetrating oil. You need to buy a gallon of penetrating oil in bulk. Not spray cans.

[GregLaROCHE]

Remington puts them on right. But people pay to have them "righter" for a real or perceived need for the nth degree of accuracy. Even the lowly m710/770 has a good accuracy reputation.

I was thinking that could be why.

[toallmy]

Photos of bolt and receiver .232907232907

[toallmy]

Not quite but I'll get the picture thing worked out .232908

[toallmy]

Photo of bolt232910

[skeettx]

Mauser 93 per the flat on the bottom of the bolt face

[toallmy]

232999
It's apart

[skeettx]

Great, 7x57 re-barrel :)

[toallmy]

I'm going to take a few days really inspecting the receiver carefully before screwing the green mountain barrel on .

[toallmy]

Reamer Question
My plan is to rent a finish reamer from www.Reamer Rentals .com to finish the chamber . I would like to get one with the interchangeable pilots to properly fit the bore . But do I need any other measurements such as the neck size of the existing short chamber + does the reamer open up the throat in front of the case neck ? I tried giving them a call but I quickly realized it's New Year's Day and I hope they are enjoying it . I'm shore when I talk to them that they will know exactly what I need to complete this part of my project but I would like to have any information that was needed when I contact them .

[Texas by God]

Are there any markings at all left on it? Just a normal finish reamer and go and no-go gauges will work fine. It would be nice to know if it's a German or Spanish 93 just for knowing's sake. If the action passes inspection it will make a fine deer rifle.

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[skeettx]

And the old barrel will have proof marks, perhaps

[toallmy]

Here is all I have been able to figure out about the receiver & bolt so far .
1893-1916
There is a rib on the left side of the receiver .
Bolt face is flat on the bottom , same cut in the receiver .
S# E 26xx .
No thumb cut in receiver .
Oval gas vent in the receiver , lines up with a hole in the flat part of the bolt when closed to vent gas .
There is a small circle on the left side of the receiver that has a cross of sorts in the circle .
That's all the markings I could find except for the # 3 on the bottom of the receiver .

[Texas by God]

Too bad the Crest was buffed off. But it resembles a 1916 Oviedo. Does it show lug setback?

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[toallmy]

Too bad the Crest was buffed off. But it resembles a 1916 Oviedo. Does it show lug setback?

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That's a very good question .
The receiver shows wear more so on the bottom than the top in the receiver . Wile the bolt lugs show pretty much full contact on the top with 60-70 percent on the bottom when the bolt is closed . So I'm going to leave that can of worms alone for now . I have contacted Blanchard Metal Processing about carburizing , but at this point I'm not going to lap the receiver or lugs to keep it simple for my first attempt .

[ulav8r]

Do not have it carburized unless you lap the lugs first. If the lugs seats are not set back and are hard, carburizing might not be needed. If the lug seats are setback, then they should be corrected and then carburized/heat treated.

[leadman]

Make sure you strip the bolt of the firing pin and spring. You want the bolt to have no resistance from the parts when you are checking the headspace when you are cutting the chamber. Go slow, use lots of cutting oil and clean the chamber and reamer frequently. One metal chip in the chamber when the reamer is reinserted can cause a groove in the chamber.

I have installed a few of the Green Mountain barrels and they shoot good after they have 50 rounds or so of jacketed down the barrel. I have gone to using boolits with 600 grit lapping compound on them to smooth out the barrel by fire lapping. Usually notice a difference in how the barrel cleans after 5 or 6 down the barrel. I clean after each fire lapping shot.

[toallmy]

I just hit the button to rent the reamer + go / no go gage + T handle . So hopefully this weekend I will get to do something . I most certainly appreciate everyone's help and for putting up with my questions .

[Texas by God]

SR Mausers make nice sporters. This is my Oviedo 1916(93) that I converted to 30-30 Win. You'll note the thumb cut on mine. Someone may chime in yet to identify your 93.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190111/29f776bd8f1b59e82ca26f5846f44eea.jpg

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[Hannibal]

I just hit the button to rent the reamer + go / no go gage + T handle . So hopefully this weekend I will get to do something . I most certainly appreciate everyone's help and for putting up with my questions .

BEFORE you use that reamer, inspect it under magnification for any nicks, burrs, or chipping on the cutting edges of the flutes!

First set back I ever did I rented a reamer and didn't know enough to check it when it arrived. Left a ring in the shoulder that looked about identical to the datum line. First firing on brass, everything looked OK except for the ring on the shoulder. Second firing, I'd have a primer raised.

Took a bit of head scratching to figure out i needed to add about .015" to my sized case measurement to make up for that **** ring in the shoulder. :mad:

[toallmy]

I decided to open up the barrel channel while I wait for the reamer to arrive , I got a email Friday that the reamer should arrive on Monday . I am putting it together with a Ramline or its Champion now stock to play with it . The polymer sands out very easy so it only took a few hours on and off .
I have a question about screwing the barrel to the receiver for finale installation . How tight should it be ? Will 80-100 keep it together ? I am planning to use anti-seize on the barrel threads . Does this seem reasonable ?

[Texas by God]

I use a little never seize and just get it tight. My mental torque wrench hasn't failed me yet. Just a titch more after the barrel shoulder hits the action face.
It's gonna be good- a 7x57 is perfect for deer.

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[toallmy]

Ok I got it , snugg it up and just a bit more:-P

[toallmy]

I got the package in today with the reamer + pilots, and go / no go gage , + extended T Handle . I ran into a little problem the extended T handle won't work it's cut to fit a square base while the reamer is a half round and half flat base . The reamer base is threaded so I can still work it out , now I am just waiting on the Tap-Magic to get here , hopefully it will be on the late truck .
I'm as jittery as a kid on Christmas eve , the brass is ready , the cast boolits are sitting there ready to go . I just need to know how long the OAL is going to end up .

[Texas by God]

I have never seen a reamer like you described. Although I haven't seen a ton of reamers in my life LOL. But everyone I have used has a square 3/8 of an inch end on it so you can put a square 3/8 of an inch female extension t-handle on there. Did you buy the reamer of rent it? If you rented it I would call the company and ask them what you're supposed to turn it with? Good luck we are enjoying this.
Pictures are always welcome!

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[Larry Gibson]

I decided to open up the barrel channel while I wait for the reamer to arrive , ..........

Good luck with that. I've worked on a couple M93 rebarreled to .308W and 358W. For 100% feed reliability with 5 rounds in the magazine I found not only the rails in the receiver needed widening but the inside of the magazine walls also. The taper for the 7x57 cartridge in the magazine is the same as the taper on the receiver rails. One I never have got to feed 100% reliably with 5 rounds....4 yes.....5 no.

When chambered to the 30x57 and 35x57 (short chambered '06 and 35 Whelen with cases of 8x57 length) which have the same case taper as the 7x57 no receiver rail or magazine alteration was needed. The fed slicker than scum off a Louisiana swamp.......

I believe the FR7 and M1916 conversions to 7.62 NATO had both receiver and magazine altered.

[AZ Pete]

lurking


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[Texas by God]

Post #41 the op reveals the new barrel is for 7x57mm. I still want to try the 30x57 someday. My 1916 30-30 needed no rail work thank goodness. It will only work correctly with 3 in the magazine but that's 2 more than a single shot.

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[toallmy]

Post #41 the op reveals the new barrel is for 7x57mm. I still want to try the 30x57 someday. My 1916 30-30 needed no rail work thank goodness. It will only work correctly with 3 in the magazine but that's 2 more than a single shot.

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Yes indeed I think a 30x57 would be just about a perfect combination for a fun cast boolit shooter .
I went with the original 7x57 due to simplicity , but I like the cartridge very much as is . Yesterday evening I finished snuging the barrel to the receiver , and finishing the chamber . It went very well , I spent a lot of time doing it that probably wasn't necessary , but this was the first time I have ever used a reamer . So I was very cautious just taking a few turns , cleaning the reamer , and chamber well , saturating the reamer with cutting oil after checking with the go gage . I stopped with a little tension required to close the bolt , I am going to try it out before returning the rental tools .
Elk-ridge responded very quickly with a apology and offer to send out the correct t-handle + refund the charge . A customer could not ask for better service .
Now to do a little tinkering around with OAL before putting a few rounds through it to see how it works .

[john.k]

In answer to Larry G.....the Spanish 308 s Ive seen,they didnt bother with any alterations,and they only feed 3 reliably(sometimes) but will take 4 in the mag.....if you have the thumbcut ,you can easily stir up the rounds between shots..........IMHO,the 7x57 seems to have the most taper of any Mauser round..........the least would be the 6.5x55,but I have never seen a swede converted..........but I havent looked either ,cause I know all the early Kimbers used Swede recievers.

[toallmy]

Here it is 234212

[toallmy]

I had a long post about trying cast boolits in the new barrel yesterday evening , but some how I lost it playing around posting a picture .
The short version is I am tickled , and think it's going to shoot .

[toallmy]

The day before yesterday I took it out to try a few rounds at 50 yards after finding out the new chambers acceptable OAL , and was kinda surprised in a good way when a few holes in the target were almost touching . That was with no help from me , I was shooting off a bench but with my elbow resting on the bench I was wobbling around quite a bit .
So yesterday I stuck a bipod on before going to sight in at a 100 yards just to help me stabilize a little . With 15 rounds in my pocket I walked the sights up around 10 inches to get on target , and shot the last 5 for a group . The first shot in the group i thought I missed the whole target so I walked up to get a good look - to find a little hole in the top of the bullseye , back to the bench feeling pretty good the second shot knocked out the plastic disk I was using as a bullseye , then I thought I'm doing something right . So I walk back to the target with my magic marker and color in wear the bull was the 3rd shot perfect hit . But then I got big headed and threw the last 2 rounds wild opening a 1-1 1/4 group up to a 2 1/2 inch group .
I didn't do any load work up , it was just a plinking load that I had shot in the previous barrel with adjusted OAL , a dropped powder charge of unique loaded on a loadmaster .
I think I'm going to like this .:happy dance: