Wipe Out bore cleaner

[abunaitoo]

I finally found some Wipe Out at our Gunshow.
Always wanted to try it, but could never find it here.
Cleaning an old 1891 Argentine Carbine.
Made a stand to hold the rifle muzzle down, in a pan.
Sprayed it in. Looks like shaving cream foam.
After a hour, blue coming out of the muzzle.
Will keep at it, and report back.
217135

[knifemaker]

I believe that the instructions with the wipe-out calls for keeping the barrel horizontal and level when using. Nice thing about wipe-out you can leave it in for a extended time and it will not damage the barrel steel. I plug the chamber while the gun is horizontal in the vice and spray it in until it starts running out the muzzle and let sit for several hours.

[Dryball]

yes, you want to keep it horizontal. I'm anal so I also rotate it every so often...but I sure do love that stuff

[Streetwalker]

I really like Wipe-Out for cleaning copper out of barrels. It seems to work quite well on other bullet jacket materials but I haven't been impressed with its ability to clean out powder fouling. I like good old Hoppes for that after I have removed all the jacket fouling.

[jmort]

I like Wipe Out and Patch Out
Recommended

[kungfustyle]

don't let it touch the stock.... It works not sure if its worth the $11 for one bottle. Doesn't seem to go that far or that was my experience. Midway and Graf's carry it.

[Lloyd Smale]

yup and don't let it get down in your action without cleaning it out very thoroughly afterward. It will gum up your action real fast. But its great at getting copper fouling out with very little work.
don't let it touch the stock.... It works not sure if its worth the $11 for one bottle. Doesn't seem to go that far or that was my experience. Midway and Graf's carry it.

[pcarpenter]

I've used a lot of stuff over the years and Wipe Out is by far the best, at least at copper removal. I think that may be because it's safe to leave in the bore for a good while where other ammoniated copper removers are not. For those who don't know, Wipe Out is the foam version in a spray can. Little dab will do ya and I really like the hose and fitting they sell for like $1.50. You can force that into the chamber to get a seal and then just barely blip the valve and get enough to make it to the other end. Hold the fitting in place for maybe 30 seconds so the foam is trapped and expands toward the muzzle.

I finally broke down and bought a bottle of "patch out" which is the same stuff in a traditional liquid form. It goes farther. What is nice about both is that you put them in and leave them and in spite of it's copper removal abilities is safe to leave say overnight. I also bought a bottle of the "Accelerator" that goes in before a patch wet with Patch Out. Was skeptical but it does turn it into a "clean it now" cleaner instead of waiting to soak things loose. Wipe Out does eat finishes. You do want to keep the gun horizontal but slightly nose down so that it doesn't run into the action. My gun cleaning cradle does this anyway. I too flip the gun sometimes to keep gravity from putting it in the bottom of the barrel. I like the tip about plugging the chamber. I may find a rubber stopper that will seal at case head diameter and glue it to the end of a dowel rod to make that easier to work with.

Paul

[JRD]

Back when I first saw WipeOut advertised in Handloader or Rifle, I called the company to inquire and wound up speaking to the inventor/owner. This was probably back round 2004 or 2005. We had a long discussion about WipeOut and how it works and I have been a faithful user since.
Yes you need to take precautions not to spill on an oil finished stock. Pull barreled actions from stock and no worries, or just be careful and keep a rag handy.
Already mentioned is keeping the barrel horizontal. Also I recall the chemicals need access to air to work so don't plug the ends of the bore. They will also continue to work for well over 24 hours. I've gone through some mil-surps where I laid down multiple rifles, foamed them up, and then came back the next day and patched out the deep blue goo.
Also, the wipe out guy said there is no need to oil once your bore is clear. The WipeOut leaves a rust preventative film. (I think he may have said lanolin.)
I can also say that WipeOut while great in bores, is not good for cleaning exteriors. I wiped some grungy guns down with the foam, wiped off the foam with a rag after a while, and the guns had a nice tacky feel that your fingers stuck to.
Thus I am a big proponent for foaming bore cleaners... for use in bores and not exteriors. I'm partial to WipeOut but that's admittedly due to the kindness of the man I spoke to years ago.

[abunaitoo]

I mounted it vertical so it wouldn't get into the action.
It seems to work for me.
My thinking is all the rubbish will slide down and out of the barrel.
Maybe I'll try and move it to a slight angle.

[David2011]

Trust what the others said. A slight angle from vertical is still vertical. The barrel needs to be horizontal with the muzzle slightly down. It will work even better for you because it stays where it's needed and won't leave the chamber/throat area. The cleaning patch will push everything out when you run it down the barrel.

[15meter]

I use Sinclair bore guides for the bolt guns. Gun cradle with muzzle slightly down, squirt in from muzzle, watch with a paper towel in hand for when it comes out the bore guide. Mop up the over flow and let it sit.

[shooter93]

Pretty much all I use now and worth the price to me. I like that you can spray it in and then do other things while it soaks. I have left it in over night many times. A couple tips...I push a paper towel in from the breach to keep any from flowing into the action. Spray in from the muzzle.....it doesn't take much really and a lot can be wasted until you learn how much of a spray to give it. It doesn't take much. Then I hold a finger over the muzzle for a couple seconds and then let it expand. I put a trash can under the muzzle end to catch any that might come out the muzzle. Once you learn the proper spray amount it goes pretty far. I can remove the paper towel and see the foam right op to the chamber. They also make an accelerator for it too which I use.

[jonp]

never heard of it. I've been using Hoppes Copper, Kroil and JB Bore Paste with elbow grease for the worst cases. After reading these posts I'm going to pick up a bottle and try it. Worth the $11 or so to try it

[Iowa Fox]

Been using the stuff since it first came out. I just finished cleaning a 243 barrel the had a lot of vitrified carbon in it. Wipe out & accelerator were the only things that would cut it. Still took me several days.

[abunaitoo]

After a week of cleaning, I think it as clean as it's going to get.
Much less blue coming out.
Bore has some shine to it now.
We'll see how it shoots this weekend.

[PatMarlin]

Thought I would add on the bore cleaning subject, I found a product that has got my Foul Out electronic system and any other bore cleaner I have ever used over the years beat hands down and that is IOSSO PRODUCTS - BORE CLEANER.

Just a tiny bit on a patch or patch covered brush removes fouling of any kind right down through copper to steel in minutes.

Carbon on revolver cylinders, anything. Just amazing... friend had a rusty old black powder rifle and I fired a few rounds coated with the stuff and it blasted the rust right out of the bore clean, after a few patches.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/solvents-degreasers/bore-cleaning-paste/bore-cleaner-prod308.aspx

[Char-Gar]

I was using home made "Blue Goop" when Sweet's 7.62 came out. I thought Sweet's was an answer to prayer as now I could clean the metal fouling out of a old barrel, in just one weekend of constant cleaning. When Wipe Out came along it could do more in 20 minutes than Sweet's could do in three days.

[JimB..]

Called and spoke to Terry at length. Ordered some wipeout foam, some tactical advantage liquid, some lead out, and some lube and sizing lube.

Wipeout does get out copper, as shown by the blue discharge, but I don’t think it’s as good as other foaming cleaners for carbon.

I haven’t found that tactical advantage does much of anything, it dries to a sticky mess over night, wet patching shows some copper in the morning, carbon seems unaffected.

Tried lead out for 15 min as per directions, patch came out covered in rust. Never saw the pink gel described in the instructions. Returned to traditional solvents and scrubbing to clean that mess up, will shoot a bunch of hard cast bullets and try it again...but it makes me nervous. Bought it thinking I’d use it on 22LR barrels, but I won’t.

The lubes all seem slippery, but haven’t tried them yet.

[Mytmousemalibu]

Have heard great things about it and thought about trying it. I generally clean with Ed's Red and do a pass with Boretech Eliminator as it gets some additional crud out. I was perfectly happy with Ed's Red and still think that is all a guy needs most of the time but the Boretech made me a believer.

[Cosmic_Charlie]

I used wipeout recently on a bulgy AK74. Really did the trick since those 5.45 bores are not easy to get at.

[robg]

I liked outers nitro solvent in a spray can used to squirt it down the barrel have a cup of tea then brush and swab out seemed to work on all the crud in a barrel and leave it very clean.

[Tom W.]

I use it, or something similar, that I bought at Walmart some years ago. It's in the shed and I ain't going to look now. I put the rifle in a Midway Gun vise, stick the hose up the chamber and spray until it comes out the muzzle. I put an old meatloaf pan under the muzzle to catch the drips. After about 30 minutes I start to clean, and it works like a dream. I'll finish up with a few patches soaked with Kroil and the bore gets squeaky clean. It doesn't matter if I've fired cast, jacketed, or a combination of both. I'm convinced.....