Cast projectile recommendations for a 79' Marlin 336

[Sterling42]

I have a 1979 Marlin 336 and have been casting Lee's .309/150 gr projectiles for it with good success. Am wanting a different mold but discover my chamber to be surprisingly tight. Even on the 150 get little land marks about 3/16 from mouth of the brass. Have tried a few options that often won't allow the bolt to close the last 16th of an inch. Had a friend send me a few of the Ranch Dog style bullets and the action will close but it also leaves land marks on the projectile. Curious what you other guys may be loading for a late 70s 336 or if you are just trimming your brass back a bit to accommodate. Thanks for the help.

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[Yodogsandman]

Welcome to the site, Sterling42! Good luck in your new hobby!

Those "land marks" are good. As long as the boolit fully chambers, the bolt closes and when removed from the chamber the boolit doesn't get pulled out from being stuck too hard. The marks show that the boolit is aligned in the rifling on a bore riding boolit.

Yes, brass can be trimmed back to accommodate the crimp into the crimp groove.

[hornady308]

I use the Ranch Dog 311-165-RF that was designed specifically to fit in Marlin chambers. I size them to .310" and find that they work equally well in Winchesters. The molds are sold by NOE: http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=71_75&products_id=307

216789

[Sterling42]

I use the Ranch Dog 311-165-RF that was designed specifically to fit in Marlin chambers. I size them to .310" and find that they work equally well in Winchesters. The molds are sold by NOE: http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=71_75&products_id=307

216789I wish they had some in stock. That's the bullet I was really wanting but I bought a perversion that is a sort of bore riding design. Unfortunately the old give is a little too wide and it doesn't allow the bolt to close either. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180321/5a4409dec50756b5c71e51a8efbfe46a.jpg

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[Sterling42]

I wish they had some in stock. That's the bullet I was really wanting but I bought a perversion that is a sort of bore riding design. Unfortunately the old give is a little too wide and it doesn't allow the bolt to close either. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180321/5a4409dec50756b5c71e51a8efbfe46a.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using TapatalkVersion not perversion LOL

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[dubber123]

I would suggest slugging your Marlin to see if it has a tight spot in the bore right in front of the chamber. The last two I worked with did, and it gives chambering issues, and a false impression of bore diameter. One rifle was firelapped, the second got a throating reamer. Both chambered much better and shot more accurately after. I'm not saying your rifle has this issue, but it might. Good luck.

[Boogedy_Man]

I wish they had some in stock. That's the bullet I was really wanting but I bought a perversion that is a sort of bore riding design. Unfortunately the old give is a little too wide and it doesn't allow the bolt to close either.

I bought that mold also but for use in an old Winchester. I found that I had to trim brass a bit short to keep from crunching into the lands.

I'm still playing with it, but so far so good.

[Dan Cash]

Lyman 31141 or the closest copy of it you can get. Great as a greaser, super as a paper patched projectile.

[FredBuddy]

I posted a similar question a while back. I understand that some engraving by the lands
is good, but I question that the extra effort to close the lever is beneficial. One, am I causing
too much wear on the lever and bolt surfaces where they are camming? Two, this extra effort
slows a quick second shot.

Neither John Wayne nor Chuck Connors would have been able to save the good guys this way.

I have 2 Marlins, a '49 336A and a 30AS. Both are problems; but there are solutions. I'm still working on them.

[dubber123]

I posted a similar question a while back. I understand that some engraving by the lands
is good, but I question that the extra effort to close the lever is beneficial. One, am I causing
too much wear on the lever and bolt surfaces where they are camming? Two, this extra effort
slows a quick second shot.

Neither John Wayne nor Chuck Connors would have been able to save the good guys this way.

I have 2 Marlins, a '49 336A and a 30AS. Both are problems; but there are solutions. I'm still working on them.

Throating reamer is best, but firelapping worked on one. Both is likely best. I don't mind a little light engraving, but having to crunch rounds in is a no go for me. Using a bore scope, I was surprised at how much better the leade in to the bore looked after a few minutes with a simple piloted reamer. These guns are cranked out SUPER fast, it really is easy to improve on some of the machining.

[Wayne Smith]

OR ... NOE makes a nose size die. Might just be the ticket.

[popper]

jam a dummy in and then measure where it hits. Get Accurate to cut you one that is 0.297 at that point. problem solved. I went around with several versions of the RD, this is the best solution.

[Cosmic_Charlie]

Got a 75 Glenfield that liked this boolit yesterday; http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?357919-Couple-nice-groups

Accurate Molds 31-165D http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=31-165D-D.png