Annie Annealer by Fluxeon - Any experience?

[Dutchninja]

looks as if i'm going to have to start annealing for 338 specter. anyone have experience with this device?

https://fluxeon.com/shop/featured_products.php

[indian joe]

looks as if i'm going to have to start annealing for 338 specter. anyone have experience with this device?

https://fluxeon.com/shop/featured_products.php

Dont need all that stuff !!! Stand em half deep in a baking tray of water , heat with oxy torch, tip em over to quench when they colour, - quick - easy - simple - pay attention you wont ruin any cases .

[country gent]

I have looked at their sight and considered them. The one case annealer ( Girod?) now has parts to convert to this induction heater instead of torches. Plusses would be no open flames to worry about, the only "hot" part is the cases. And its control of temp thru power and time in the unit should be very consistant. I'm am curious on how many cases could be done before the units duty cycle is reached.
We used induction heaters for installing bearings on shafts. They did a very good job, X time in it and the inner race was heated and expanded enough to slide on the shaft.

[Dutchninja]

really hesitant to do the water bath trick, i know not to get them red hot but prefer the consistency with an induction machine.

[Nueces]

Consistency is the major reason for using an auto annealer, whether torch or induction heated.

[country gent]

I'm using a lyman lead pot filled with sand. I made a 3 tier rack to just fit in the pot a base to sit it straight , this plate is domed to make room for the nut on the bottom. then a flat round plate with 4 3/4" holes close to center. this one sets the depth the case is into the sand, And the top plate with a series of 1/2" holes around the outside edge. I believe there are 12 holes. These support and space the cases. A piece of 1/4 so threaded rod spaces these plates out where needed. I set this in the pot and filled with sand shaking to get as much air out as possible. The sand I used is a very fine sand used in glass making. In use I put my lead thermometer in the sand and bring it to 800* temp. I then insert cases mouth down thru the holes when I get a full circle I pull one and insert another dropping into water. No oxidation from atmosphere no open flames. Cases get about a 10-12 second soak at temp and then quenched. Very light color change. This works for me with my BPCR cases.

[sass2924]

I’ve started looking a annealers also. I’m leaning towards the Annie. From what I’ve read, the induction type are easier to set up vs flame. Also, no tanks, just plug in.

[RogerDat]

I have looked at several and the Anneal Rite seems like it would be a decent product for the price. One that offered higher productivity and repeatability for a modest investment. But for my modest needs I can't see spending $400 - $500 or more for something like the Annie to replace the functionality offered by a deep pie tin of water and a torch. And the Anneal Rite seems well made at a good price but could be made in the home shop for even less cash.

I cast at a tempo where I in effect keep a count going in my head, can't see any reason I can't anneal the same way. I suppose if I was doing enough volume of annealing my viewpoint might change.

Just for compare https://www.cartridgeanneal.com/

[popper]

The induction coil is similar material as the brass - basically a TV HV section. Coil needs the H2O cooling to keep it from failing. I use a mapp torch holding case in my fingers. If I were to automate I'd go to the hot salt method or a PID controlled block of ceramic fire brick with a hole in it + a timer.
Edit: my concern for the 338 Spectra cases is the short case and preventing the body from annealing. Got to get the mouth hot FAST and get off it + cool the case. I've used the torch on BO brass, no problem. 10mm is shorter.