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jh45gun
03-31-2005, 01:35 AM
When I got my K31 I was supprised to see that some one had slopped a coat of varnish or some other shiny finish over the stock and sadly did not even do a good job as the side where the sling goes had a great drip mark right before the sling holder about the size of a nickel. Well I did not want to refinish the gun like some do I wanted to keep it looking better but still used with out the crappy finish. So I lightly used some Medium #1 grade steel wool to take the drip mark out and to blend in and take the harsh glaring finish off of the stock and still leave some of the origional finish and the dents ect. My goal was to get rid of the crappy refinish job and still try to retain the origionality of the stock and leave some of the origional finish if I could. After I was done a light wipe with a tack rag took care of any dust ect and brought back the luster to the remaining finish. I think it turned out well.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/jh45gun/CNXT0023.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/jh45gun/CNXT0025.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/jh45gun/CNXT0022.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/jh45gun/CNXT0024.jpg

C1PNR
03-31-2005, 09:41 PM
That looks nice. You have a good stock to begin with, or at least better than mine, and that finish looks good to me. :)

I've got one in a walnut stock that had been messed with at some time in the past. I'm planning on a little refinsh, to at least even out the "new" finish, and then put a Scout Mount and Scout Scope on it.

I met Onceabull at Shapel's a while back and at the same time picked up a used Leupold fixed M8 2.5 X IER that may go on this rifle.

I later found a special order Burris 2.75 X Scout Scope that the guy didn't pick up, so I got a "good deal" :shock: on it. Just in case the Leupold doesn't fit the mount. Some scopes don't fit as well as others on Darrell's K-31 mounts. :?

jh45gun
03-31-2005, 10:34 PM
Yep thats the next expense after dies one of Darrells mounts. I really like the scout scope concept and have a Mosin and My Swede set up that way.

C1PNR
04-01-2005, 03:33 AM
I've got one of Darrell's for my 1891/59 Mosin and M39 Finn, both of which look like they'll be fine with anything I want to put on them. Still don't have anything for the M38 or M44. :?

What mount, and for that matter scope, are you using for the Swede? I have both Obie and Husky and I think (he said confidently, if not correctly) they each take a different mount. :?:

JDL
04-01-2005, 10:09 AM
Yep thats the next expense after dies one of Darrells mounts. I really like the scout scope concept and have a Mosin and My Swede set up that way.

Could you tell me more of the Darrell mount? Does it require drilling and tapping, cost, etc.?-JDL

jh45gun
04-01-2005, 01:51 PM
JDL I never have seen one yet but do plan to buy one just from the glowing reports of satisfied guys on the net that use them. He is based out of Parralax's Milsurp Forum look under Hunting to find Darrels Scout mount Forum. His mounts are a no gunsmithing mount that fits where the rear sight goes. It is a stable mount from what I have read and the price is decent also considering it is a custom made mount. Jim

jh45gun
04-01-2005, 02:21 PM
CIPNR, MY swede mount I made myself and is not reversable though I suppose it could be with a lot of work :lol: The Mount is loosly based on the Old Ashley Systems (Formerly AO now called XS) Scout mount that was soldered or epoxied onto the barrel. I cut my 96 down stock and barrel. The Barrel is carbine length at 20 inches. I Then took a 3/4 diameter section of standard Pipe since I could not find the right size tubeing and cleaned it up real good and polished it and blued it. Pipe is 3.5 inches long. I had found that a weaver base ( Rail) for a Remington 742 ect had the right curve to fit this pipe/ tube or what ever you want to call it. The pipe was also the right thickness to drill and tap for 6/48 standard scope/base screws for a good hold. I drilled and tapped the pipe to match the holes on the base and screwed that to the pipe. Though using the pipe sounds kinda crude it polished up great and blued well it does not look like common pipe when you are finished. If you could find some tubing that would work so much the better I suppose bit the pipe was all I could find locally that would work. OK after I prettied up the pipe and drilled and tapped it and mounted the weaver base I put it on the barrel to see how it looked. Looked good! OK the pipe had a bit of slackness so I cut some shim material to take up some of the slack. A aluminum can works good and rolls up nice. I then mixed up some Accra Glass Gel and coated a coat on the barrel and the inside of the tube. and some on the shim. I then lined up the base so it was square with the top of the barrel and waited for the epoxy to dry. After it was dry and rock solid ( THE Ashley mount says you can solder or epoxy their mounts in place and I found the epoxy was easier to use. ) I then releived enough wood out of the stock forarm for the barrel to fit in place. I then mixed up some more gel and coated the bottom of the mount and barrel with release agent and glass bedded the mount in the stock for a tight custom fit. Then when dry took the barrel/reciever out of the stock cleaned it all up and replaced it back into the stock for a nice custom fit. This mount sits lower than any of the no gunsmithing ones do. Unfortunatly it does alter your gun but if that is not a problem it is a cheap alternative ( In price but not function) for a Rock solid low mounting system. I wanted the hanguard left on so I had to alter that for the mount to fit since it is such a low fitting base to the barrel. I like it it is rock solid low and I do not need a cheek pad for the stock.
The scope I have mounted here is not on the gun anymore as I changed scopes my scope now on the swede is the one on the Mosin in the pic a 30MM 2.5 Illuminated crosshair scope by Tasco. The other scope is a old Phantom Bushnell. 2.5. I switched the swede now wears the Tasco and the Mosin the Phantom.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/jh45gun/SwedeScout.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/jh45gun/Scouts.jpg

JSH
04-02-2005, 11:49 AM
Jim, unless you really want a bright sheen, you might just try and wipe the stuff off with some mineral spirits or laquer thinner. That may remove the excess rather than sanding and take a chance of removing any desirable markings. Or if you want to tone it down a bit, try some wax on it. I use floor wax and 3-4 coats buffed looks really nice and gives the wood a chance to show its figure
The first K-31 I picked up I used the foaming oven cleaning method. Yes it works and is fairly quick and easy. But, it raises the grain quit a bit and I darn near lost the cartouche on the stock.
Next time I will take my time and do it the way I have in the past, might take me a week or two but the results are a lot easier on the wood.
Jeff

jh45gun
04-02-2005, 10:33 PM
Thanks Jeff I did not go near the cartouche and I kept the steel wool to a minimum. Just enough to break the shine and get rid of that nasty drip mark and thin the finish down some what. It looks not as shiny in real life as the flash of the camera makes it shine more. Jim

mroliver77
04-05-2005, 08:11 PM
Willbird and I worked for a "furniture nazi" a few years ago. All items were finished with "Durathane" for a high gloss luster. For a more satin finish we hand rubbed with 0000 steel wool dipped in furniture polish. The combination of wax and fine wool made a nice finish. I have used fine scotch brite with wax on gunstocks to touch them up. Even a linseed oil with the scotch brite on an ols oil finish does wonders. I have even raised small dents and dressed with linseed without having to resort to a complete refinish. Jay

C1PNR
04-06-2005, 09:04 PM
Jim,

I sure do like how low that scope sits on your Swede! I just don't like to make any permanent changes to the rifle.

Having said that, I did just order a "new in the white" barrel for my 96/38 with the sewer pipe bore, and I may consider some permanent alterations to that one after the barrel arrives. I presume I'll have to get the whole rifle polished and blued to make things match.

And whoever had the rifle before me just sanded the heck out of it! Not a sharp edge anywhere on the wood. Lots and lots of handling "charactor" marks, though. May be a candidate for refinishing and staining, which moves it closer to "permanent changes" status. We'll see, I guess.

I think it's S&K Scope Mounts that also make a "no alteration" mount for the Swedes. Theirs is a little more money, though. About $75 or so, IIRC. Really need to think about that.http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif Oh, and they make one for the Husky and a different one for the Obie, so you can't just swap from one rifle to the other?!?;-)

C1PNR
04-06-2005, 09:07 PM
Could you tell me more of the Darrell mount? Does it require drilling and tapping, cost, etc.?-JDL

Here's a link to Darrell's web page:

http://p077.ezboard.com/fparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforumsfrm85

jh45gun
04-08-2005, 07:13 AM
C1PNR, when I swapped scopes from the Swede to the Mosin and back again I had to buy higher rings just so the bell of the scope would clear the handguard ring. Yea it sits low but nice as I know it will never shake loose and I do not need a cheek pad either. This will be my whitetail rifle for next season. Jim

jh45gun
04-08-2005, 07:21 AM
I really was debating on going with Darrels scout mount or ST. Maries clamp on reciever mount for the K31. The clamp on mount would be nice but since it sets to the right and I am left handed not sure how well that would work. Cost is around a 100 bucks but I could use a regular scope too. Then Back to the Scout mount of Darrels for 60 bucks I guess this one wins as I really do like the scout mount system and could mount a variable on it for target shooting on high power and hunting for low power. Best of both worlds. Or I just may go with a standard 2x or 2.5 x depending on what kind of deal I can find on an other pistol scope. Plus I really like the scout mounts for hunting as you do not have a scope blocking your eyesight like a regular scope. I have had really close shots on deer that all I could see was hair not knowing where on the deer. A scout scope eliminates that.

C1PNR
04-09-2005, 01:59 PM
I really was debating on going with Darrels scout mount or ST. Maries clamp on reciever mount for the K31. The clamp on mount would be nice but since it sets to the right and I am left handed not sure how well that would work. Cost is around a 100 bucks but I could use a regular scope too. Then Back to the Scout mount of Darrels for 60 bucks I guess this one wins as I really do like the scout mount system and could mount a variable on it for target shooting on high power and hunting for low power. Best of both worlds. Or I just may go with a standard 2x or 2.5 x depending on what kind of deal I can find on an other pistol scope. Plus I really like the scout mounts for hunting as you do not have a scope blocking your eyesight like a regular scope. I have had really close shots on deer that all I could see was hair not knowing where on the deer. A scout scope eliminates that.
When looking at a scope, be sure you take into account the eye relief for that particular model. Most "Pistol" scopes I've looked at are Long Eye Relief (LER) and I need an Intermediate Eye Relief (IER) on mine.

jh45gun
04-09-2005, 10:33 PM
When looking at a scope, be sure you take into account the eye relief for that particular model. Most "Pistol" scopes I've looked at are Long Eye Relief (LER) and I need an Intermediate Eye Relief (IER) on mine.
Interesting as I have found pistol scopes to work on all my scout applications so far. jim

C1PNR
04-10-2005, 02:04 PM
What models of which makers Pistol scopes are you using? Maybe I can expand the field of scopes I'm checking out.

jh45gun
04-10-2005, 10:37 PM
I have used Swift, Tasco, Bushnell, in the past with good results. Right now My Swede Mauser has a Tasco Pro class on it in 2.5x my Mosin has OLD Bushnell Phantom 2.5 on it that did not fit the Mauser as it blacked out on me ( Due to the age of the thing) two easy, but on the Mosin it works fine. I have a swift 2x on my 308 Encore that I had on my Swede Mauser set up just to see how it would work and it worked fine also. All these are of course cheaper then the Leupolds or Burrises out there but they have worked well for me. Jim

C1PNR
04-11-2005, 10:50 PM
I have used Swift, Tasco, Bushnell, in the past with good results. Jim
I had given some thought to the Bushnell, just have not seen any lately. Wasn't looking that hard at the Gun Show over the weekend, either. I'll certainly keep that one in mind.

Never been much of a fan of the Swift or Tasco. My Brother has had trouble with both. I do have a Simmons, Whitetail model IIRC, on one of my rifles that has given good service over the years. May need to look at them, too. Thanks for sharing your experience.http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif

jh45gun
04-12-2005, 01:36 AM
Simmons would be a good choice also or maybe even a Weaver if you can find one cheap really I think most any pistol scope will work ok. The last two I bought at gun shows the Tasco was 30 bucks and it has illuminated crosshairs at the flip of a switch and the Old Bushnell Phantom was 27. Out the the two I like the Tasco better but the Bushnell will work until some thing else comes along. You never know what the gun shows may bring, Or flea markets estate sales ect.

carpetman
04-12-2005, 02:01 AM
Ive had lots of trouble with Bushnell. Both the product and their so called customer service. Ive been charged and had them returned--still not fixed. Those Leupolds become much cheaper after you go through a deal or two with Bushnell.

Bob S
04-12-2005, 07:06 AM
The problem that I have with all of the "no alteration" mounts is that they put the scope W-A-Y too high for a good spot-weld in position shooting. I have a lace-on cheek piece that adds 1/2" height, and that's nowhere near enough for me.

The "scout" mounts put the scope on stilts, and all of the scopes that I have seen that are of any use with those mounts (intermediate eye relief) have fixed parallax at 50 or 75 yards. For shooting at more than 200 yards, the error induced by a just slight stock weld variation (which is unavoidable with the scope up in the stratosphere) make it impossible to shoot a decent score. If you are looking for a woods-hunting rig, where your shots will not exceed 100 yards, and you will be shooting from the standing or kneeling positions, that rig may fit the bill, but I'm not a hunter.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

jh45gun
04-12-2005, 09:36 AM
The problem that I have with all of the "no alteration" mounts is that they put the scope W-A-Y too high for a good spot-weld in position shooting. I have a lace-on cheek piece that adds 1/2" height, and that's nowhere near enough for me.

The "scout" mounts put the scope on stilts, and all of the scopes that I have seen that are of any use with those mounts (intermediate eye relief) have fixed parallax at 50 or 75 yards. For shooting at more than 200 yards, the error induced by a just slight stock weld variation (which is unavoidable with the scope up in the stratosphere) make it impossible to shoot a decent score. If you are looking for a woods-hunting rig, where your shots will not exceed 100 yards, and you will be shooting from the standing or kneeling positions, that rig may fit the bill, but I'm not a hunter.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

You got to expirement with these mounts to get them right. I have to admit my permanent rig on my Swede has the scope low and easy to use but that is not a feasable answer for guys who do not want to alter their guns. Biggest thing is to get the lowest rings you can use with these outfits and I make my own lace on cheek pieces out of leather so I get the right fit. Since pistol scopes are made for guns like the Encore ect which allow you to shoot long range with a pistol I do not see why using them on a scout rifle would make any difference. Yea I do hunt and figure these make a good rig. A higher lace on pad can be made to get the cheek weld you need and a lot of times a commercial one just does not cut it.