To Shoot .38 Caliber Molds

[Good Cheer]

For a small bore muzzleloader to shoot .38 revolver molds...
Paper patched or lubed lead?
What would you go with as far as bore diameter, rifling geometry and twist?

[Squeeze]

What kind of action do you plan on using? and just BP barrel, or a centerfire conversion?

[Squeeze]

I have a 14 twist .36 (oregon barrel) that shoots better than I can with a GG 270 grn. I have only shot it to 200 so far. It also shoots 100 grn .311 XTPs in a sabot very well. It was a testing prototype, kind of done on the cheap. Im now about 3 months into the wait for a Krieger 9.3 barrel in 14 twist (.358/.366) I plan on trying the same GG bullets sized down a bit, or shoot .35 whelen as bore riders. This one is going on a TC omega action, and will be smokeless compatible, but I plan on shooting Blackhorn.

I have seen White rifles built in .338, .375, and .38 used by the team for friendship matches. The shooters there say they fell short at longer ranges.. Im hoping the .35s in J word sabotless and speed helps, but its all in fun. I just like to tinker, and love smallbore muzzys

[NoZombies]

I think to fit a .38 revolver mold, I'd want a sabot in about a 2.5" bore, the halves would probably separate in flight, unless you leave the handles attached, and I'm not sure how the accuracy would be, especially with the handles.. Iron or brass molds would carry more down range energy than aluminum, but the aluminum molds could probably be pushed to a decent velocity and require less windage for the sabot.

All joking aside, I suspect a 1-16 twist with a .357 groove would be a good place to start. I think the trick might be getting a bullet with enough lube capacity.