Anet A8 printer - Making it print the Bullet collator

[HATCH]

I have had some questions asked to me so I thought I would post some upgrades that I recommend

The printer in question is the 2017 Anet A8
216055
They have a new model Anet A8M which has a metal frame and dual extruders (so you can print 2 colors at once)
There are also different clones that have the popular upgrades already built in.


We will talk about the A8 specifically

Prior to assembly, I recommend that you source this item. It is 3d printed.
A8 fan spacer
216056
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1798669

You can assembly your printer and print this but its just as easy to shoot me a PM and I will print one for you for just the cost of some first class stamps.
I really don't know why they don't include it as you need it for assembly. If you want to print it later then use 2 spacers from the display and some washers.



Hot Bed Mosfet
216057
https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1520601714&sr=8-6&keywords=mosfet
The problem with the A8 printer is that the connectors on the controller (motherboard) are of poor design and will fail over time. Plus there isn't a current limiter so it will cause another problem which I will mention in a minute.
This item is VERY easy to install and easy to hook up.

Hot bed connector
It is recommended that you solder the hotbed wires directly to the hotbed.
The connector will fail and it is easier to just do it now during assembly vs doing it later once it has failed.
I just screwed mine directly to the frame (frame is acrylic anyway). If you get the Anet A8m then you will have a metal frame and will have to use spacers.
You can assembly the printer without it but it is such a inexpensive safety feature.

Install a basic on/off toggle switch.
Get something that is rated for 10 amps. Any auto parts store sells them.
Use 14ga wire. Buttsplice the incoming power wire and run it to the switch and then back to the power supply.
This allows you to turn off the power via switch vs just pulling the plug.

Micro SD extension
https://www.amazon.com/LANMU-Extension-Flexible-Monoprice-Raspberry/dp/B01D9JIUU0/
This is a MUST HAVE. Cost is $7 shipped.
I stuck mine on the top left z axis support using double side tape.

Purchase some filament tubes for spares
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0776NRHRY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They aren't expensive but if you are like me you might need one the first time you try to switch filiment and get it stuck in the tube.

Build plate - Blue tape or Glass or ????

Well this will be a long discussion.
I was recommended this mat - Mamorubot build plate
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075JKCMRV
Basically it is suppose to allow PLA to stick really good when warm (60-70C) and then be very easy to release when cold.
I haven't had much luck with this.

Blue tape - this is just painters tape. Your printer comes with standard beige masking tape on the bed. It works well and will last several prints.

Glass - this is the best that I have heard about. It does require a glue on the glass each time you print but the glue can be removed after each print with a alcohol wipe.
People use either glue sticks or common hair spray.

Filament -
I have used this >https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUBEAD9
And it works great. Its cheap and I have successfully printed the Collator base and the 9mm collator plate.
There are other choices and for the most part they are about the same.
There is a company in NC that makes and sells -> http://www.makeshaper.com/
They sell the larger 5kg spools as well as the typical 2.2kg and 1kg spools as well.


There will be more stuff added later.

Download your files -> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314
Make sure you always have the latest files.
The designer (AmmoMike83) is a member on here. He is in Germany so its +6 hrs to EST
He is a great guy to work with and seems to be very knowledgeable.

Download Cura
https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software

The default settings are for a Ultimaker.
But you can change the printer in the software
You need to make sure that you have the correct setting for the diameter of your filament (1.75). The default setting for me was 2.85
I had issues printing.
Well this post is long enough. Will add to it later

[AmmoMike83]

For me it's reading like...


bla bla bla bla.....
The designer (AmmoMike83) is a member on here. He is in Germany so its +6 hrs to EST
He is a great guy to work with and seems to be very knowledgeable.

bla bla bla bla bla

hehe. Just kidding. So. Very well written article. Thank you, Charles!



Build plate - Blue tape or Glass or ????

Well this will be a long discussion.
I was recommended this mat - Mamorubot build plate
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075JKCMRV
Basically it is suppose to allow PLA to stick really good when warm (60-70C) and then be very easy to release when cold.
I haven't had much luck with this.

Blue tape - this is just painters tape. Your printer comes with standard beige masking tape on the bed. It works well and will last several prints.

Glass - this is the best that I have heard about. It does require a glue on the glass each time you print but the glue can be removed after each print with a alcohol wipe.
People use either glue sticks or common hair spray.

I am 3D printing for more than seven years now. And after a few month I switched to a heated glass bed. I wrote heated, because in the beginning of 3D printing, they were not. I am doing so until today. Just glass and a glue stick. I use glue stick because my bronchia are sensitive to hair spray, but go and try yourself how heated hair spray tastes like ;)

We should publish a do and don't list here, maybe with pictures to prevent others from Tony-ing (printing ****).

Mike

[Recordingwhiz]

The recommend on the green build plate is 100%

I use it and it works like magic, no glue! no Hairspray! and no tape !

Highly recommended from me that is for sure.

Also recommend as your firsts builds from Thingiverse to print out an air nozzle first ( I did the half circle ) and Belt tensioners of some sort, as loose belts are one of the printers challenges.

Some sort of spool handling device that puts the filament spool above with a filament guide helps quite a bit and reduces footprint.

There is an Anet A8 group in Thingiverse that will show you plenty of projects to improve your printer, oh yeah a Filament release button will help tremendously to save your thumb..

CHeers

Gerry G

[Handloader109]

Gerry, How thick is the build plate? Appears to be a polypropylene sheet, but is it thin and flexible or fairly rigid?
Thanks

[6bg6ga]

Older people like myself need pictures to go along with links.

[jmorris]

I don’t know much at this point but with the filimant it comes with tape works great. With Shaxon PLA it wouldn’t stick at all.

I had a mirror I taped to the bed and sprayed with Elmer’s spray adhesive at lunch and that did the trick.

When you open the box there is a leaflet that shows what fasteners to use where and I have a bunch leftover from the build. After I put it together and went to load my first print file, I discovered there is an instruction file on the SD card, that I’ll read someday after I clean up the wiring and make it look pretty.

Anyhow here is a picture for the less than young.

Oh, and the spool holder is a lot smoother when the spool is centered, I am sure there are printable attachments but I just turned some 3” plastic to 2.925” OD and drilled a 5/16 hole down the center and looped the filimant over the light fixture over the dining table. Works until my wife sees what I am doing and makes me move it out to the shop.

I would have already done so but I don’t know how environmentally controlled these need to be. Anyone have one in a non HVAC shop or garage?

[HATCH]

I am not sure it matters to be honest about be in a CC building.
You are controlling the extruder and the bed with a PID program.

I have learned a bunch over the past few weeks.
Lost a bunch of hair for sure.

(1) LEVEL THE BED - this is critical. 1/2 your issues come from your bed being not level.
(2) Check the default settings in Cura - For me the default settings were 2.85 filament size. Cause major voids in the print. It should be 1.75
(3) Not all PLA uses the same temp settings - One each roll there is a recommended temp range. Generally speaking 190-210 on E and 50-60 on B

Now for the bed mat.

I installed auto level on my printer. It required flashing the firmware to Marlin and then installing the Anet style sensor.
Problem with the non-contact sensor is that you can not use a thick bed mat or glass. The green mat was too thick for the sensor range.
I ended up going back with blue painters tape.

I level the center of the bed with a piece of paper.
Once its centered then I go do each of the corners twice.
You have to do it twice because when you make adjustments on one corner, the other corner on the same Z axis will shift slightly.

Something I have learned with the auto level sensor.
No matter how level you think your bed is, its not.
The auto level program starts at the center of the bed.
Then it moves and checks 9 points.
3 points across and 3 points deep.
it displays on the screen what the Z axis measurement is for the sensor at each point.
On my printer its a 1/4 mil across the entire bed.
The problem is the bed itself isn't a perfectly flat piece


I am printing a Z- axis upgrade piece. I have already done the upgrade on my machine but I am putting together a little care package for those who get a A8 printer.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2436455
216209
It requires 2 bearings -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Y9IRNA
There are other bearings being sold that will work for cheaper but these are what I purchased and they work. Plus they are cheap.

Now for my care package

Fan spacer
Z-wobble upgrade (you need to order bearings)
toggle switch with 14ga tffn wire
Filament tube (spare)

I sent one to Jmorris (minus switch and zwobble)

[jmorris]

I sent one to Jmorris

And thank you again for your help! :)


The problem is the bed itself isn't a perfectly flat piece

That was one reason I tried the glass, it didn’t seem to matter printing small parts but I swapped before I printed the bullet plate that takes up most of the bed.

[Recordingwhiz]

Gerry, How thick is the build plate? Appears to be a polypropylene sheet, but is it thin and flexible or fairly rigid?
Thanks

It seems about 1/16th (calipers say .09 or lil over 2mm) of an inch or so , fairly rigid, smooth as glass but when hot the PLA likes to stick to it.

GG

[jmorris]

Those that have had success, what does this photo tell you?

I made an assumption that I needed more heat.

Maybe a list of parameters for the different parts you have successfully printed would be a good idea?

This is what I used on the attached photo, that didn’t work.


v2 base plate mrbullet feeder

layer height .1
Shell thickness .8 for Wall and bottom/top
Infill 80%
Printing temp 190
Plate temp 45
Diameter 1.75
Flow 100
Speed print 50
Travel 120
Cooling enabled
No support
Adhesion brim, 8mm

[Mark2215]

Why did you abort the print?

I find the most crucial part of the entire print is the first layer. I aborted many first layers trying to figure out my printer. The key is perfectly level and getting the right gap. On mine I set it with a piece of paper, the paper is tight under the nozzle but can be pushed and pulled in and out. Set your initial layer to .09 to get it to squish onto the plate. I run my temps at 200 and 70, other than that the same settings as you. I'm printing onto glass sprayed with aqua net.

[jmorris]

I stopped it because the “feet, ears or legs” began pulling off the bed, narrow one was worse and started to close the screw hole (that locks the turn plate in position), figured I would stop wasting time at that point as I didn’t see any way to make things get any better. FWIW I had to pry the rest off, why I thought I might have been too cold on the bed at 45, because the remaining seemed adhered pretty well. I raised it to 70 and took the hot side to 210 and printing the turner now.

I have my gap set at .0035” or .0889mm they didn’t have aqua net at the Walgreens I stopped into today will check in a larger store when I get a chance. How would you describe your application of the hair spray on the glass?

Also when I printed my first few parts with the supplied filament I could take the first layer brim and fold it over on itself (with the “grain”) and it wouldn’t break, had to trim it off. With the new filament that looked too cool or not melted together enough, cracks or separates when bent. How pliable or not should it be?

[Mark2215]

I spray across the glass about 4 or 5 times, making different rows as I go, holding the can about a foot way. Just like you would spray paint. Try not to overlap the rows too much so you don't get any puddles, just a light coat, when the bed heats up it should all look uniform. In between small parts I'll scrape off the brim and part and just give it a quick shot to touch up the spots I scraped. If I'm starting a long big part I'll clean the glass with windex and apply a new coat of aqua net.

Also, from what I've read it really does matter that you get aqua net. Apparently it has a certain chemical that causes it to work so well. I picked mine up at wal-mart.

[jmorris]

Thanks, I’ll try and find it tomorrow.

I printed the rather small turn plate and could see the change in color in the brim, when it began lifting, the top is flat but that means the edges are thinner than the center.

Might not matter on this part but didn’t want to waste a day on the body.

[Mark2215]

You said you printed with a brim. Did the brim lift too or did the part separate from the brim? Are the parts all lifting from the same place on the bed?

[jmorris]

On the turn plate, the outer part of the brim was still stuck to the glass (printed in grey and darker in color) and part but I could see near the edge of the part, in the brim, it was lighter in color because of a gap. All the way around the edges to some extent but more in the corners.

On the body (printed it in black) I couldn’t see it was pulling off until it lifted the brim too, on the legs not on the round portion.

Added: see photo attached:

Then something that I figured would be pretty simple to print still doesn’t come out right. What causes some random layer in the middle to not stick? Not like anything could get on the material between the extruder and reel. I am guessing this should be a 100% part vs 80% fill?

[Mark2215]

I did all my parts at 80%. What brand PLA are you using? Are you using Cura? If you are, make sure your printer settings for nozzle and material size are correct.

[AmmoMike83]

Maybe that helps a bit:
https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-printing-in-pla

[AmmoMike83]

Plate temp 45


Why!? Recommended bed temp for PLA is 65-70 °C.

[gsdelong]

I am getting ready to take the plunge, does anyone know if the 8-M is worth the extra $100 and the wait from china, or is it just the 8 with the metal parts that can be purchased separately already installed?

[jmorris]

Why!? Recommended bed temp for PLA is 65-70 °C.

Because when I asked what settings needed to be changed in cura other than infill, this is what I was told.


Layer Height 0.15 or 0.10
Infill Density 80% or 100%
Wall Count: 4 or 6
Generate support: off
build plate adhesion type: brim
brim width: 6 mm or 8 mm

cooling: enabled
retraction: enabled

Not knowing what I am doing didn’t want to change things that were not suggested by the designer at first. ;)


You have to assume that you are talking to a fellow that knows about as much about 3D printing as he can glean from the cardboard box, because that is who you are talking to.

Trying another one with

v2 base plate mrbullet feeder

layer height .15
Shell thickness .8 for Wall and bottom/top
Infill 80%
Printing temp 200
Plate temp 70
Diameter 1.75
Flow 100
Speed print 50
Travel 120
Cooling enabled
No support
Adhesion brim, 12mm

Using cura
Shaxon PLA
Glass bed
Aqua net extra super hold unscented
.0035” gap

[AmmoMike83]

Because when I asked what settings needed to be changed in cura other than infill, this is what I was told.



Not knowing what I am doing didn’t want to change things that were not suggested by the designer at first. ;)

Oh. I am sorry. There are hundreds of parameters you can change :) Please take a look at that site I posted. That should clarify most doubts and issues. Sorry again.

[Mark2215]

Because when I asked what settings needed to be changed in cura other than infill, this is what I was told.



Not knowing what I am doing didn’t want to change things that were not suggested by the designer at first. ;)

Every different type of PLA should have a recommended temperature range on the package. You should be sure you're within that range.

[AmmoMike83]

Every different type of PLA should have a recommended temperature range on the package. You should be sure you're within that range.

Filament/Printhead Temp ... true
Printbed Temp ... no

[AmmoMike83]

other interesting video to this topic:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmEaNAwFSfI&list=WL&index=33

[jmorris]

Oh. I am sorry. There are hundreds of parameters you can change

Not a problem at all, I understand, it’s not like I can autocad something, run it through mastercam and hit the start button on my CNC mill either, lots of other details involved.

That said this thing is fairly “plug and play”, you just don’t know what you don’t know, until you realize you don’t know something you need to know.

The print temperature range on the filament i am current using is 180-230. I don’t know if it’s the 10deg bump in print temp or the 25 bump in bed temp but this one is looking a lot better, at least to the untrained eye.

[jmorris]

I would like to thank everyone for guiding me, Mark with the nugget that made it work for me, providing parts and the direction to head in Hatch, and Ammomike83 for the development and program (I know how much work that is even if it’s not easy to see) files that got me out of my comfort zone and into learning something new, I really appreciate it.

It is a night and day difference when you do something new and have folks that have “been there, done that” helping.

Looks like the collator body print is a winner this time, didn’t even knock the brim off yet.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216551&d=1521259735

FWIW the pattern is the 2L00”X” pattern. I have a case of the Dayton 2L009 motors and they fit perfect. I did order the much cheaper MBF motor to see if it holds up as well, I suspect it is the same.

Would have been cool to have one of these 30 years ago. Even neater if I could live long enough to see one working in ER70S as a CNC TIG, that’s what I envisioned a couple decades ago when the 3D wax machines came out.

[6bg6ga]

Thats one nice looking collator there jmorris. I wish mine looked half that good. Wait, I bought mine and I should have just bought the 3D printer.

[AmmoMike83]

I would like to thank everyone for guiding me, Mark with the nugget that made it work for me, providing parts and the direction to head in Hatch, and Ammomike83 for the development and program (I know how much work that is even if it’s not easy to see) files that got me out of my comfort zone and into learning something new, I really appreciate it.

It is a night and day difference when you do something new and have folks that have “been there, done that” helping.

Looks like the collator body print is a winner this time, didn’t even knock the brim off yet.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216551&d=1521259735

FWIW the pattern is the 2L00”X” pattern. I have a case of the Dayton 2L009 motors and they fit perfect. I did order the much cheaper MBF motor to see if it holds up as well, I suspect it is the same.

Would have been cool to have one of these 30 years ago. Even neater if I could live long enough to see one working in ER70S as a CNC TIG, that’s what I envisioned a couple decades ago when the 3D wax machines came out.

Great looking print!!!!!!!! I am proud of you!!!!!!!

[6bg6ga]

Looking at the collator...mine that I purchased from Tony is an older design in which the bullet drop is into the side of the ramp. Oh, how I wish I had waited.:cry:

[AmmoMike83]

Looking at the collator...mine that I purchased from Tony is an older design in which the bullet drop is into the side of the ramp. Oh, how I wish I had waited.:cry:

That was an own interpretation by tony. Did not make any sense, because the bullet never goes beyond the inner ring. Had the same wrong thought in the beginning, but it should work the same as the new one.

[Mark2215]

I would like to thank everyone for guiding me, Mark with the nugget that made it work for me, providing parts and the direction to head in Hatch, and Ammomike83 for the development and program (I know how much work that is even if it’s not easy to see) files that got me out of my comfort zone and into learning something new, I really appreciate it.

It is a night and day difference when you do something new and have folks that have “been there, done that” helping.

Looks like the collator body print is a winner this time, didn’t even knock the brim off yet.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216551&d=1521259735

FWIW the pattern is the 2L00”X” pattern. I have a case of the Dayton 2L009 motors and they fit perfect. I did order the much cheaper MBF motor to see if it holds up as well, I suspect it is the same.

Would have been cool to have one of these 30 years ago. Even neater if I could live long enough to see one working in ER70S as a CNC TIG, that’s what I envisioned a couple decades ago when the 3D wax machines came out.

Great job, looks nice. What was the setting that made the difference? Now you'll have a couple hours swearing at it getting it to run right, especially if you're going nose down. I enjoy tinkering with things so the whole process has been fun for me. In fact, I'm already trying to decide what to make next!

[AmmoMike83]

Great job, looks nice. What was the setting that made the difference? Now you'll have a couple hours swearing at it getting it to run right, especially if you're going nose down. I enjoy tinkering with things so the whole process has been fun for me. In fact, I'm already trying to decide what to make next!

I am working on the bullet feeder pro /ultimate edition. 2 times as big as the original one 🤣https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180317/f4acaee9aa1bc4e1cc5a3ad958da7f6e.jpg

[razorfish]

I am working on the bullet feeder pro /ultimate edition. 2 times as big as the original one 🤣https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180317/f4acaee9aa1bc4e1cc5a3ad958da7f6e.jpg

Ugh. I just started putting together my A8 and I already need a bigger 3D Printer. :)

What 3D software are you using to design with?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AmmoMike83]

Ugh. I just started putting together my A8 and I already need a bigger 3D Printer. :)

What 3D software are you using to design with?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

🤣🤣

I am designing with openSCAD. My goal is to change one variable (base plate diameter) and it sets up all other dimension by itself.

[HATCH]

I have had problems recently with printing correctly.
With the assistance from Mike, I have pretty much pinpointed it down to the gap between the bed and nozzle.
I had installed the touchless auto level sensor and had it setup.
It seemed to work ok but I wanted to play around with the bed mat that was suggested earlier.
After a hr of messing with it I went pack to blue tape.
I couldn’t get the gap set right. Ended up cracking the mount that held the sensor either by over tightness or the sensor hitting the print

I ended up lowering the nozzle two turns (out of the extruder) and releveling again using the auto sensor (prior to seeing the crack)
So long story shorter, went back with the factory switch.
Leveled the bed twice and was able to print again.

On printing on blue tape or any material.
80% of your print problems have to deal with nozzle/bed gap
10% is temp settings and 10% has to deal with code/cura settings

[J. DIEGO]

Thanks for your work AmmoMike83
It would be possible to take more advantage of my tavola tarantula print 20x20 I have two feeders of their own and I would like to be somewhat larger for the capacity
of my printer, if it makes bigger files ... maybe I can not print them
because my printer capacity is 20x20 so alone.
Thanks again for your dedication.
regards
Diego

[jmorris]

What was the setting that made the difference?

It was the temperature, the settings in #21 are what I am using now.

The Aquanet/tile mirror cut down to fit the bed is another suggestion that makes for a good starting point.

Gap setting at .0035” is where it’s working for me and this takes a few minutes because you have to do it over and over until you can go to all 4 corners and they are the same. You change one and it effects the others,so it’s a bit like “sneaking up” on the correct gap.

My current bullet collators can hold more bullets than my case feeder can and collate correctly.

So I add bullets every two hundred, cases and primers every hundred. I use cups to get close to the right amount and always have a bit more in the collators than needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WTZ-_v6Mks

[AmmoMike83]

It was the temperature, the settings in #21 are what I am using now.

The Aquanet/tile mirror cut down to fit the bed is another suggestion that makes for a good starting point.

Gap setting at .0035” is where it’s working for me and this takes a few minutes because you have to do it over and over until you can go to all 4 corners and they are the same. You change one and it effects the others,so it’s a bit like “sneaking up” on the correct gap.

My current bullet collators can hold more bullets than my case feeder can and collate correctly.

So I add bullets every two hundred, cases and primers every hundred. I use cups to get close to the right amount and always have a bit more in the collators than needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WTZ-_v6Mks

Cooooool setup. I tried to build such a primer feed pistol on my own. The printer isn’t capable of printing that fine ring structure to flip the primers. Even with a 0.25mm nozzle it fails. You are probably right about the dimensions. MBF came up with the MBF pro yesterday, and I was hagged off, and tried to build a variable openSCAD script. Hatch wanted thicker walls and so on. Is the print stable enough for you now?

[jmorris]

Is the print stable enough for you now?

Everything is looking good now printed off a couple small parts this morning and starting the case feed side of the hanger now.

How does the spring attach to the part that screws to the bottom of the base plate?

[AmmoMike83]

Everything is looking good now printed off a couple small parts this morning and starting the case feed side of the hanger now.

How does the spring attach to the part that screws to the bottom of the base plate?

I printed the large spring housing and sanded the hole down until I could “screw in” the spring. Or you can try to make a cone of the first few rings.

[Tazza]

I'm still considering a printer, but as you are working on a bigger fancier collator, i may need a bigger printer :)

Awesome job guys.

[6bg6ga]

I'm waiting to see how big this new one is going to be.:coffeecom

[AmmoMike83]

I'm still considering a printer, but as you are working on a bigger fancier collator, i may need a bigger printer :)

Awesome job guys.


I'm waiting to see how big this new one is going to be.:coffeecom

I changed the openSCAD script so it's variable in base plate diameter, wall height and wall thickness. There is just a problem with the flipper at a certain size an wall thickness. Maybe I should switch to a rubber version. Any suggestions?

Is there a need for this? as jmooris mentioned correctly in my eyes, the "small" one can hold 400 9mm bullets.. so?!

[AmmoMike83]

216696
200 mm in diameter and 120 mm wall height.

I am really uncertain to go this step further :/

[jmorris]

Printing the other stuff I ran into another snag and wasn’t thinking, just runnng through them.

The printer doesn’t seem to want to print on air. Surprisingly it did make it on the round portion of the mount but there was no way it could do the rectangle that forms the hook portion of the mount.

How does one orient the part so it’s printable?

[AmmoMike83]

Printing the other stuff I ran into another snag and wasn’t thinking, just runnng through them.

The printer doesn’t seem to want to print on air. Surprisingly it did make it on the round portion of the mount but there was no way it could do the rectangle that forms the hook portion of the mount.

How does one orient the part so it’s printable?

Use support structure, or print it like in your second picture. Printing in mid air is not possible ;)

[AmmoMike83]

Printing the other stuff I ran into another snag and wasn’t thinking, just runnng through them.

The printer doesn’t seem to want to print on air. Surprisingly it did make it on the round portion of the mount but there was no way it could do the rectangle that forms the hook portion of the mount.

How does one orient the part so it’s printable?

216699

[AmmoMike83]

Printing the other stuff I ran into another snag and wasn’t thinking, just runnng through them.

The printer doesn’t seem to want to print on air. Surprisingly it did make it on the round portion of the mount but there was no way it could do the rectangle that forms the hook portion of the mount.

How does one orient the part so it’s printable?

Cura marks the surfaces, that will need support during print in RED.
216700

lay it flat (90° rotation on Y-axis) and activate support. you can drill that out later.

216701

that way.. hope this helps.
Mike

[J. DIEGO]

anmoMike83
the biggest problem I found so when making the wall that will keep the bullets
in my opinion it could be made thicker, because the one that is now me is taking off even with 0.2 layers, abs material.
I unfortunately do not understand this to create a thicker wall on the outside.
regards
Diego

[AmmoMike83]

anmoMike83
the biggest problem I found so when making the wall that will keep the bullets
in my opinion it could be made thicker, because the one that is now me is taking off even with 0.2 layers, abs material.
I unfortunately do not understand this to create a thicker wall on the outside.
regards
Diego

Hi Diego,

if the wall comes apart it's a printing issue. See here to get rid of that issue: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#some-layers-are-missing

you can't change the wall thickness, because the base plate isn't public.

Mike

[J. DIEGO]

Ok thank you, I'll read everything that escapes me for 3d printing
I've only been with the printer for a month!

[jmorris]

I found the support box and checked it, how do I rotate it 90 deg?

[AmmoMike83]

I found the support box and checked it, how do I rotate it 90 deg?

There is a rotate button on the left black bar. Click the object, then click rotate, then select the green axis and rotate it by 90 degrees. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/17117b8d7b8507db9ebb925a4d91e04e.jpg

[AmmoMike83]

I found the support box and checked it, how do I rotate it 90 deg?

I changed the orientation of the parts and uploaded them to thingiverse.

[Tazza]

I agree with Jmorris, for most people, 20o x 9mm would be enough, it doesn't take much effort to grab another hand full to top up the collator.

The only reason my ears pricked up over the larger unit was the fact i do fairly large resizing batches, but when i think about it, i need to be there when it runs just in case there is a jamb with the sizer, so putting more into the smaller collator isn't a big deal.

[Handloader109]

I sprung for a tevo Tarantula and just got it printing, similar except for the use of aluminum rails, still acrylic supports that most replace. If you gave the $ get a tornado supposed to be a much better, but what's half the fun.?making it work for cheap.

Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

[jmorris]

I changed the orientation of the parts and uploaded them to thingiverse.

Thank you!

It seems like the feature is locked on my free download of cura, or quite possibly I don’t know what I am doing, the icon is there but does not seem active.

No problem though because I down loaded the laid down version you uploaded and just started it off.

I’ll see what we have around lunch tomorrow. The MBF motor came in today and it’s not the same as the Dayton motors but obviously a copy. 10-32 nuts work on the studs but there is not enough room in the counter bore for a socket, I’ll see if I have something that will work or just make the counter bore a bit larger.

[AmmoMike83]

Thank you!

It seems like the feature is locked on my free download of cura, or quite possibly I don’t know what I am doing, the icon is there but does not seem active.

No problem though because I down loaded the laid down version you uploaded and just started it off.

I’ll see what we have around lunch tomorrow. The MBF motor came in today and it’s not the same as the Dayton motors but obviously a copy. 10-32 nuts work on the studs but there is not enough room in the counter bore for a socket, I’ll see if I have something that will work or just make the counter bore a bit larger.

My pleasure, Joe!

What do you mean by "counter bore"?

To your question concerning the spring housing. I added 6 different types of spring housing with an ID from 10 to 15 mm. Hope that helps.

[jmorris]

The spring housing I printed with the perfect ID to run a 1/2-13 tap into and thread the extra MBF spring I have into. FWIW that’s the same thread that’s in the factory MBF parts.

A counterbore is the larger diameter above the through hole. Looks like the ones for mounting are for socket head cap screws the ones in the base allow the nut to fit in there but won’t allow a socket to tighten them.

[jmorris]

You can see the difference in diameter on one of the other one’s I have made, where there is more than enough room for the socket to fit around the nut.

[AmmoMike83]

You can see the difference in diameter on one of the other one’s I have made, where there is more than enough room for the socket to fit around the nut.

OK. Thank you. I changed the design. And vocabulary is updated ;)

[J. DIEGO]

Hi, what material are you printing on?
The abs is giving me problems !!
I'm going to try with Pla, the use of abs is because it's supposed to
It is harder than any other material.

[AmmoMike83]

Hi, what material are you printing on?
The abs is giving me problems !!
I'm going to try with Pla, the use of abs is because it's supposed to
It is harder than any other material.

I am using standard PLA

[J. DIEGO]

I'm going to try PLA
Thanks, I will comment

[J. DIEGO]

For me it's reading like...



hehe. Just kidding. So. Very well written article. Thank you, Charles!



I am 3D printing for more than seven years now. And after a few month I switched to a heated glass bed. I wrote heated, because in the beginning of 3D printing, they were not. I am doing so until today. Just glass and a glue stick. I use glue stick because my bronchia are sensitive to hair spray, but go and try yourself how heated hair spray tastes like ;)

We should publish a do and don't list here, maybe with pictures to prevent others from Tony-ing (printing ****).

Mike

Hello ammoMIKE
I need a drop_tube light file with the measurements;
16mm outside and inside about 10mm for the 9mm parabelum.
It is for the rcbs tip feeder.
Is it possible to create it?
Thank you
Diego

[AmmoMike83]

Hello ammoMIKE
I need a drop_tube light file with the measurements;
16mm outside and inside about 10mm for the 9mm parabelum.
It is for the rcbs tip feeder.
Is it possible to create it?
Thank you
Diego

bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_rcbs_id10mm_large_sp ring.stl

uploaded. print it upside down. next time you are trying to contact me, ONE way is enough. gunloads post, gunloads PM, thingiverse comment is way to much!

Mike

[J. DIEGO]

Sorry to cause discomfort
thanks for everything.
regards
Diego

[AmmoMike83]

Sorry to cause discomfort
thanks for everything.
regards
Diego

Hope it is what you want, your description was a bit short :)

[J. DIEGO]

I hope so, mate too.
I bought another bullet feeder dock different from the one you use.
The one I bought measures 14mm outside, I do not know what the measurement will be
to which is now.
If you can arrange the file for my combination, I would be very grateful.
regards
Diego

[J. DIEGO]

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B06XGFXZ2X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hope this pier serves me .....

[AmmoMike83]

I hope so, mate too.
I bought another bullet feeder dock different from the one you use.
The one I bought measures 14mm outside, I do not know what the measurement will be
to which is now.
If you can arrange the file for my combination, I would be very grateful.
regards
Diego

Or use some sandpaper [emoji23]

[AmmoMike83]

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B06XGFXZ2X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hope this pier serves me .....

15.5 mm for large spring
12.5 mm for small spring

[J. DIEGO]

It can also be done, it's not too much trouble
I'm pretty handy!: razz:

[J. DIEGO]

If they are 15.5 it will be worth it, only there is a difference of 1.5mm:goodpost:

[AmmoMike83]

Coming up next:
Hollow base WC collator.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZ9-5IXuuIY

Thanks to J. DIEGO for printing and testing!

[Mark2215]

Coming up next:
Hollow base WC collator.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZ9-5IXuuIY

Thanks to J. DIEGO for printing and testing!

Am I missing something? It doesn't appear the bullets are going anywhere.

[AmmoMike83]

Am I missing something? It doesn't appear the bullets are going anywhere.

It is a test and I did a mathematical mistake in the construction for the slot. Instead of
Slot_length=bullet_height +1
It must be slot_height=sqr(bullet_height^2+bullet_caliber^2)+ 1

[chaoticmachinery]

I'm going to try PLA
Thanks, I will comment

Just wanted to add that you could try PETG. It is easy to print with like PLA but has the strength of ABS. Just read up on what is required to prep your print bed otherwise you could damage your print bed.

I've got half of the parts printed out so far. Hoping to have the rest printed out over the next week or so.

Great job AmmoMike! I am really looking forward to getting this add to my RCBS.

CM

[jmorris]

I printed mine in PLA, the one that failed to print (I think the dog got on the table and “played” with it while printing but that’s another story) and even the low fill plate are strong enough to do the job. I could bust an “ear” off the failed body but it would never see that kind of load in use.

[InfringedNSocal]

I am not sure it matters to be honest about be in a CC building.
You are controlling the extruder and the bed with a PID program.

I have learned a bunch over the past few weeks.
Lost a bunch of hair for sure.

(1) LEVEL THE BED - this is critical. 1/2 your issues come from your bed being not level.
(2) Check the default settings in Cura - For me the default settings were 2.85 filament size. Cause major voids in the print. It should be 1.75
(3) Not all PLA uses the same temp settings - One each roll there is a recommended temp range. Generally speaking 190-210 on E and 50-60 on B

Now for the bed mat.

I installed auto level on my printer. It required flashing the firmware to Marlin and then installing the Anet style sensor.
Problem with the non-contact sensor is that you can not use a thick bed mat or glass. The green mat was too thick for the sensor range.
I ended up going back with blue painters tape.

I level the center of the bed with a piece of paper.
Once its centered then I go do each of the corners twice.
You have to do it twice because when you make adjustments on one corner, the other corner on the same Z axis will shift slightly.

Something I have learned with the auto level sensor.
No matter how level you think your bed is, its not.
The auto level program starts at the center of the bed.
Then it moves and checks 9 points.
3 points across and 3 points deep.
it displays on the screen what the Z axis measurement is for the sensor at each point.
On my printer its a 1/4 mil across the entire bed.
The problem is the bed itself isn't a perfectly flat piece


I am printing a Z- axis upgrade piece. I have already done the upgrade on my machine but I am putting together a little care package for those who get a A8 printer.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2436455
216209
It requires 2 bearings -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Y9IRNA
There are other bearings being sold that will work for cheaper but these are what I purchased and they work. Plus they are cheap.

Now for my care package

Fan spacer
Z-wobble upgrade (you need to order bearings)
toggle switch with 14ga tffn wire
Filament tube (spare)

I sent one to Jmorris (minus switch and zwobble)

Odd as it seems - constraining the Z leadscrews at the top is NOT an upgrade. It typically introduces z wobble banding into your prints as the leadscrews on these machines are never cnc quality perfect and will wobble. Having the top ends open and un constrained introduces LESS z wobble and allows the X axis to ride along the smooth rods "better" ... now if u add the z wobble reducer part to you x idler and x motor mounts - then you may end up better off with those bearings in there. It drove my OCD bonkers for the longest time watching those leadscrews twist in the wind up there ... It will show itself as odd bands on the perimeters of your prints and can cause you needing to slow your speeds way down.

[razorfish]

Based on this thread, I built an Anet A8 but couldn’t get the X axis and Y axis square. I finally gave up and ordered some aluminum extrusions from Misumi to build a “real” frame. It’s perfectly square and much more stable now.

I’m not too sure about using anything that restricts the top of the Z axis to correct for Z Wobble as long as you’re using the stock flexible coupling. Just make sure you have only 5mm of the motor shaft and 5mm of the Z screws in the flexible coupling so it can do its job.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180413/a421d155be99f475933d9570030636b9.jpg

[InfringedNSocal]

Nice lookin printer razorfish ... Im all Misumi too - based off the Zaribo groups i3 interpretations ...

Ive got a lot of upgrades printed that need installing yet - the y rod holders are the last of em ....

218404

[shibbykins]

My A8 arrived yesterday. Im slowly putting it together between knocking out stuff on the "honey do" list.

[Lakehouse2012]

Hi Guys, I've got my printer setup and running, printing one of Anet's calibration blocks now. I've downloaded Cura, but dont see the Anet A8 printer as a choice, which device is most similar?

[jmorris]

I’m using the Prusa I3 setting for my Anet 8/Cura.

[takiniteasy88]

New here, this is a awesome forum! I just ordered a printer and will be making the bullet feeder, does anyone know how much filament I should have on hand? I will be printing the whole assembly and will have 5 different calibers.

[jmorris]

When you save the files out of Cura, it will tell you not only how long it’s going to take to print them but how much filament it will take.

[takiniteasy88]

Thanks!