Mold temp variables between 2 and 4 cavity NOE moulds

[Wm Cook]

The two cavity NOE mould I want isn't in stock but it's available in four cavity. I wanted your opinion on keeping mould temperature consistent with the aluminum 2 cavity versus the 4 cavity molds. Thanks, Bill.

[fredj338]

IMO, gonna depend a lot on bullet diameter. My 9mm molds take longer to heat & & hold the heat longer than my 45 molds, regardless of maker btw.

[Wm Cook]

Good question. This will be for 165 grain .308's. And again, the question is it a plus or a minus to maintaining mould temperature 4 verses 2 cavity or vice versa. Thanks, Bill.

[gwpercle]

I'm not sure if a 4 cavity mould is a plus or minus to maintaining mould temperature because there are about half a dozen other things besides the number of .308 cavities that can affect mould temperature .
I do own one ,two , three and four cavity moulds , it seems I have to cast slightly faster with the one and two cavity moulds and at a slightly slower pace with the three and four cavity moulds to maintain proper mould temperature .
I guess what I'm trying to say is you can cast good boolits regardless of the number of cavities in the mould. .308 aren't big holes anyway.
My favorites are three cavities....but my hands get tired after a few hours.
Split the diff and get a three cavity or go for the four cavity and make lotsa boolits.
Gary

[popper]

My 4 hole Al. 30 cal from accurate has no problems.

[bangerjim]

I have 4, 5, and 6 hole molds with no problems! In cals from 223 thru 45/300gn

Are you using a hotplate to preheat your mold to FULL casting temps? That eliminates the temp problem trying to heat up on edge the pot! Use a hotplate and forget about mold temps from cavity to cavity. Besides, this is not rocket science. Just cast’em and shoot ‘em.

[winelover]

I find it much easier to maintain the heat, with an aluminum mold, if it has more than 2 cavities. I bottom pour. For instance, I had a NOE 2 cavity 160 grain thirty caliber mould that was giving me fits, after multiple casting sessions. Break in was not the problem. I've been casting for over 40 years. Bought the same mould in a 4 cavity and was dropping good bullets during the first session. Gave the 2 cavity to a friend that strictly ladle casts. Smallest number of cavities, I will buy in aluminum, is three.

Winelover

[stubert]

I have a 5 cav. brass NOE mold in 350 gr. .460 diam. it holds heat fine, the hotplate is the key.

[mongoosesnipe]

the bigger molds hold heat better but also tak a bit longer to heat up but i typically set the mold across the top when i turn pot on and its just about perfect for casting once the alloy is to temp do this when bottom pouring cleaned range scrap and when ladeling pure lead for hunting bullets holding heat is not an issue with the bigger aluminum molds all of my noe molds are 4 and 5 cavity the 458 hp mold gets going quicker than the 6.5 and 308 as there is more lead going into the mold and the diamiter vs length is less dramatic but once casting temp is up its gravy till i need to add more lead

[Wm Cook]

Thanks. I do have a good hot plate so having the mould at x temperature is no problem before starting. Questions:
- What temperature should the 4 cavity 165 grain aluminum mould from NOE be at before casting?
- Once I start dropping bullets should I proceed a little slower than I would with a two cavity?
- Other than when stopping for a bathroom break or adding lead do I ignore the hot plate?

Thanks, Bill.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Each mold will have it's own ideal temp., somewhere in the area of 300 to 350 (maybe more, maybe less).
There are many factors, including your technique...so only you will be able to answer your question.

I've never measured mold temp.
I use an old coil type hot plate with a metal can to create an oven effect (to hold the heat effectively), I have the hotplate set to one 'click' above LOW. (there is 4 clicks between LOW, MID, and HIGH.

[bangerjim]

I use the “sizzle” method to measure mold temp:

I waterdrop everything just to cool them off fast, so - - -

Low/no sizzle = too cold mold - bad boolits

Sharp quick sizzle = just right mold temp - perfect boolits every time

Long hard sizzle even below the surface = molt too hot - could have deformed boolits

This has worked for me for many years. I get perfect drops from the 1st one - using a hotplate.

Experience is the best teacher, not just reading and worrying a ton about it. You will learn rapidly what works and does not work. And this is much easier than haveing t/c wires running all over the heck around your casting station!!!!!!!

Just get out there and do it!

[sigep1764]

Jim, that's funny I know when I get sizzles its dropping good frosted boolits! I thought I was the only crazy one. Cook, cast as fast as you want. When you start smearing lead while cutting the sprue, touch the bottom of the mold on a damp sponge. Brings those big molds down temp wise. Then keep the pace somewhere slower than that for good consistency. You don't have to do it this way, just another cat skinning technique.

[Hossfly]

Learned a lot from this forum, found an old hot plate in my shop, had a plate of aluminum 1/2” thick by 6”X 12” laid on top and set to high. On one end is hot and other is warm, turned on Lee pot and hot plate at same time, when pot got to 720’ the mold was at 400’ started casting on towel, boolits looked good so dropped about 6# .356 projectiles in water all looked good from the start, very few rejects. Had cold 2# ingots sitting on warmer and when added to pot temp remained up and didn’t stop till had to stop for coffee. No wrinkled boolits to remelt very good method will continue to do this. Only tried this on 6 cavity lee aluminum so far will try other type molds later but think will work for all molds.