Pacific DL 150

[jessdigs]

I picked up a Pacific DL 150 at a reloading estate sale. I do cast and load for rifles and pistol but have never loaded shotgun before. It looks like this press is missing something in the front left station of the press, and the old scanned manuel that found is not clear enough to make out what it is or what it does.
I would like to get this press going and play around with it. Any help indentify missing parts would be appreciated. Thanks, -jessdigshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/7c71774f4992f793f44f9f29f49d370f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/1e3162645ff0a73f17cdded9f808c4a3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/bab08f93de7ef337404a7e9e0351418a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/c7d5c72ceb0c51f4cd2801f665f37b22.jpg

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[jessdigs]

I found this picture online and it showed something in that spot.
A description or part number would really help me to attempt to find a part for it.
Also, if anyone knows of the Hornady 366 parts are interchangeable with what does go there, that would really help. Thanks. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/88c70fe4d2e7d3c27c75e706f0b23100.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/4451925366b3e4a0a4c5ff09f77abbc0.jpg

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[M-Tecs]

https://www.hornady.com/support/user-manuals#!/


http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?227841-Pacific-DL150-DL250-and-DL350-Shotgun-Presses-when-were-they-made

[jessdigs]

Thanks for the link, I looked there before and they do not have this model.
They have the 105, 155, and 266, 366. No 150 as I believe it was discontinued before Hornady bought Pacific.
This site has a parts list, but it is not clear at all.
http://pacificreloaders.awardspace.com/Pacific%20DL-150.htmhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/a451c667ab73cab7ae1d398a61be62ca.jpg

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[LUBEDUDE]

I believe that is an extra station for adding a different crimp die. For example, if you have a six point crimp on the right side, you could install an eight point. That way you are set to load paper or plastic hulls. Or it may already have an eight point on the right.

I appears to me that you have the 5 necessary stations needed, assuming your decap die has the sizer as well.

This being an older press, not everyone loaded plastic at the time. However paper hulls have made a comeback with some shooters so having both is of benefit nowadays.

[jbohio]

deprime w/o sizing ,, no the 366 parts will not fit .. 215221

[W.R.Buchanan]

That station is the pre crimp station and there is nothing that goes there. You simply put the hull under it in the place provided and run the ram down to pre crimp the hull, then you go back to the station behind it and finish the crimp.

That's all there is to it.

Randy

[William Yanda]

There is one for sale in a LGS, looks very much-almost exactly- like your pictures.

[DonMountain]

The Pacific DL-150 I have in my collection works very well. But it is an older version than yours as I only have one precrimp station on the left front and there is no threaded hole on the right front for the other precrimp like your later model has. So I have to swap out the 8-point precrimp in my left side for the 6-point precrimp. And I just purchased the three crimp set from Hornady for the 366 press. They are a set that has the threaded aluminum shaft with a taper crimp die, 6-point die and 8-point die that swap out on the threaded shaft with the set. And it screws right into the holes on your press. I run a normal 6 or 8-point precrimp die on the left side, and the taper crimp die on the right rear side so that the shells fit better in my tightly chambered Winchester 101 in 12 gauge.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/233441/hornady-crimp-starter-assembly-12-gauge

[TNsailorman]

Thanks for the info Don, I like your idea. james

[jessdigs]

Thank you all for the information.
Does your press have a spring in the back like the 155?
Mine looks like it has a place for the spring to attach to.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[DonMountain]

Thank you all for the information.
Does your press have a spring in the back like the 155?
Mine looks like it has a place for the spring to attach to.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

There is a return spring that pulls the handle back up to the top stop. It goes from the hole in the rear extension of the actuating arm down to the hole in the back point of the flat casting of the base. Its about a 1/2" in diameter and not real heavy. Its probably the same one as the 155 has. You could probably get one that will work at the spring display at an Ace hardware store or some place like that. I see in your pictures that yours is missing but I can see the holes there. Also it looks like your wad insertion guide is way too low. When that is in the correct position you should be able to take a 12 gauge hull and slide the open end up under that guide and slip the base up onto the flat base. In the position its in I don't think you could do that. When the hull is in position to insert the wad, the tips of the plastic fingers of the wad guide should be positioned so they are maybe 1/4" down below the top of the hull so that when you put a wad in there and push it down by lowering the handle it should slip right in. I think the DL-150 is a better design and works better than the later Hornady 155 was. More versatile, stronger, and you can mount more precrimp and postcrimp dies in it. The standard Hornady/RCBS shot and powder dies also fit the DL-150.

[jessdigs]

Great info. I have some empty hulls that I can play with. I need to get some wads and shot. Maybe some powder as well, I'm not sure is the stuff that I have will work.
Rotometals is right next to my yard in oakland, and they have raw reclaimed lead shot as well as cleaned and graphited shot. I will pick some up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[jessdigs]

What's funny, is I made an account and posted about this in trapshooters. About 100 views, and not one reply.
There is only one reloading community, and it's right here at cast boolits.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[DonMountain]

What's funny, is I made an account and posted about this in trapshooters. About 100 views, and not one reply.
There is only one reloading community, and it's right here at cast boolits.

Either nobody over there reloads shotgun shells or nobody collects antique shotgun shell reloading presses. They all use the new progressive presses if they even reload. But over here we all prefer the antique presses. I happen to constrain my shotgun shell press collection to 1960's Pacific presses. And they all work really well. My DL-150 was the first one I acquired and used it a lot. Then I expanded my collection to a DL-260, DL-350 and a DL-110. When I run the progressive DL-350 I always have the DL-150 set up right next to it with the same powder and shot dies to fix mistakes coming off the DL-350. You know, like forgetting to stick a wad in before pulling the handle? Things happen. I noticed in your pictures that you shot tubes are kind of broken around the mounting holes. I sometimes just take them out and go to the woodshop and trim them off on the coping saw with a fine toothed blade so they don't shatter, and then mark the holes after inserting them back on the press and drilling them out with a drill press a appropriate bit.

[John J]

Greetings
I think this might help you.
Ebay links are prohibited
check out the pics.

John J

[MOA]

Jessdigs, go www.pacificreloaders.awardspace.com that should help. You are not missing anything at that station. The only things I see you are missing is the empty spent primer catcher box that goes in the slot on the left side of the base underneath the depriming station. Your wad guide is adjustable for the hull length by way of set screw or bolt on left side of main support shaft. Yes, you need a new return spring.

I just looked at the website I posted for you help. Click on the photo gallery for good images.
I just picked up a DL-155.

[DonMountain]

Greetings
I think this might help you.

check out the pics.

John J

I wouldn't pay much attention to the locations of the dies in this add. They are not in the right positions and the primer insertion parts on the cast aluminum deck are all missing. Yours I think has the center piece that pushes the primer up into the bottom of the shell casing, but you are missing a spring and a flat ring that fits down around the primer pusher piece in the center. Originally the primer was placed down into the primer seater ring and as you set the shell on top and pushed up on the handle the upper pipe like piece went down inside the shell and pushed it down to insert the primer, while pushing the spring loaded ring down to the surface of the aluminum casting. I am missing the ring on mine also so I just bought a piece of spring that fits down in the slot and I set the primer inside of it so the spring gets pushed down when I seat my primers. I got all my original info from Pacificreloaders also. Good site.

[MOA]

Jessdigs, I'll get some images and take some measurements of the flat donut that goes over the spring and post in the priming station tomorrow so in case you need to make up the missing pieces, you will have something to go on. These will be from the 155. I will measure the post at that station that the spring goes over an then the flat metal donut sits down on top of the post and spring. Will get spring dia and spring length too.

[jessdigs]

Thank you gentleman. There is not a lot of info on the 150. 155 sure, but 150 is nearly nonexistent. I was born in '81 so I didn't get to see the good days when manufactures made quality products meant to outlive generations, and I really like the older presses also.
I picked up an older Pacific c press same day, and just ordered a ram from C&H tool that takes modern shell holders for it. It is the one where the ram rises on the upstroke. I didn't need it, I have a Dillon, a rockchucker, and a little Lee C press. I bought it because I'm hopelessly addicted, it was in front of me, and I thought it was cool.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[jessdigs]

Jessdigs, go www.pacificreloaders.awardspace.com that should help. You are not missing anything at that station. The only things I see you are missing is the empty spent primer catcher box that goes in the slot on the left side of the base underneath the depriming station. Your wad guide is adjustable for the hull length by way of set screw or bolt on left side of main support shaft. Yes, you need a new return spring.

I just looked at the website I posted for you help. Click on the photo gallery for good images.
I just picked up a DL-155.
I found that awardspace website at
pacificreloaders.awardspace.com/Pacific%20DL-150.htm
It is the only site in the bowls of the internet with any info on the 150.
And as previously posted, the parts Diagram is not really legible. I would love to find a more clear version.

pacificreloaders.awardspace.com/Pacific%20DL-150.htm
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[MOA]

Ok Jessdigs,

Images and measurements.

This is the spring that goes in my DL-155 and the measurements. Your part number on the 150 manual seems to be a 120-22.
https://s19.postimg.org/7lrs1q2k3/20180301_080144.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Inside diameter of my spring.
https://s19.postimg.org/sio06eg0j/20180301_080257.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Return spring anchor locations on my 155. for the return of press handle.
https://s19.postimg.org/790dvjs03/20180301_080316.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

This is what my metal donut disk looks like on the 155. Your part number for the 150 is 120-21
https://s19.postimg.org/cygmfoy4j/20180301_080557.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

This is the measurements on the inside of the disc.
https://s19.postimg.org/k2yfop2sz/20180301_080645.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

This is the measurement of the inside diameter in the base where the re-priming donut disk and spring go.
https://s19.postimg.org/rixpaolf7/20180301_083442.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
If I can be of any more help, please let me know.

[DonMountain]

Ok Jessdigs,

Images and measurements.

This is the spring that goes in my DL-155 and the measurements. Your part number on the 150 manual seems to be a 120-22.
https://s19.postimg.org/7lrs1q2k3/20180301_080144.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Inside diameter of my spring.
https://s19.postimg.org/sio06eg0j/20180301_080257.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Return spring anchor locations on my 155. for the return of press handle.
https://s19.postimg.org/790dvjs03/20180301_080316.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

This is what my metal donut disk looks like on the 155. Your part number for the 150 is 120-21
https://s19.postimg.org/cygmfoy4j/20180301_080557.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

This is the measurements on the inside of the disc.
https://s19.postimg.org/k2yfop2sz/20180301_080645.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

This is the measurement of the inside diameter in the base where the re-priming donut disk and spring go.
https://s19.postimg.org/rixpaolf7/20180301_083442.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
If I can be of any more help, please let me know.

Your ring and spring is identical to the one in my DL-150. But I think he may have the one that is identical to the one on my DL-110. And they are different.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Don't give up on Trapshooters.com they are the single place where there is more info on shotshell loading other than BPI.

Lots of times they don't like guys who's first post is a question about something they feel is obvious or could be answered by searching the site with the search function. Your question has probably been answered 100 times before and even here lots of guys will look but not reply even when they know the answer.

When I got my DL266 in 12 ga. I got a DL150 with it both for $100. I turned around and sold the DL150 on the same site a week later for $100 so I got the DL266 for free. The DL266 is arguably the best single stage Shotshell press ever made and Hornady dropped it after they took over the line. I have one in .410 that I had to pay $250 for off Trapshooters.com. It is the only place to look when looking for Shotgun related stuff.

I also got 1000 OF .410 Hulls offTS.com as there isn't any other place to get stuff like that. I have bought two shotguns, 2500 12ga hulls, sold Spolar and a Dillon SL900 there.

To give you an idea how much traffic that place gets My Browning Citori Sporting Clays edition in .410 was on the site for exactly 7 minutes before I got it. There was an identical 28 ga. gun from the same seller on for exactly 1 minute before it sold!

Lastly if Don Verna had not told me about the Cast Boolits site when I was posting about the reloading.40 S&W cartridge over at TS.com, I never would have known about this place.

Give them another try or search your topic in the search function and you'll get some response.

Randy

[jessdigs]

Don't give up on Trapshooters.com they are the single place where there is more info on shotshell loading other than BPI.

Lots of times they don't like guys who's first post is a question about something they feel is obvious or could be answered by searching the site with the search function. Your question has probably been answered 100 times before and even here lots of guys will look but not reply even when they know the answer.

When I got my DL266 in 12 ga. I got a DL150 with it both for $100. I turned around and sold the DL150 on the same site a week later for $100 so I got the DL266 for free. The DL266 is arguably the best single stage Shotshell press ever made and Hornady dropped it after they took over the line. I have one in .410 that I had to pay $250 for off Trapshooters.com. It is the only place to look when looking for Shotgun related stuff.

I also got 1000 OF .410 Hulls offTS.com as there isn't any other place to get stuff like that. I have bought two shotguns, 2500 12ga hulls, sold Spolar and a Dillon SL900 there.

To give you an idea how much traffic that place gets My Browning Citori Sporting Clays edition in .410 was on the site for exactly 7 minutes before I got it. There was an identical 28 ga. gun from the same seller on for exactly 1 minute before it sold!

Lastly if Don Verna had not told me about the Cast Boolits site when I was posting about the reloading.40 S&W cartridge over at TS.com, I never would have known about this place.

Give them another try or search your topic in the search function and you'll get some response.

Randy
I know people do not like obvious questions. I searched for two days for info on this particular press before I posted over there. I only found the one site I linked above, which has some instructions but no manual or info on parts list or anything.

I won't give up on them. I have about 12 forums all linked through Tapatalk on my phone, and I use all of them. Thanks for the heads up.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[jessdigs]

This has instructions that are a little more clear. http://pacificreloaders.awardspace.com/Pacific%20DL-150.htm

Are the powder and shot bushings compatible with any other manufacturers?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[MOA]

Jessdigs,

Your charge bar looks very much like my dl 155. If so, you can use the same bushings as Hornady or Ponsness Warren. I will measure the inside diameter of the shot and powder holes in mine and post it for you today. If they are the same and depending on what gauges you plan to reload for, cause that will determine what size shot bushings you need you can get them from whoever has them in stock and or the cheapest. I got #'s 4,5,6,7,8 from Ponsness Warren direct from Idaho, they also fit my DL-155 and my Ponsness Warren model 375. Both of my machines also use the same powder bushings, but since I already had about 35 powder bushing from having four MEC loaders in four different gauges I just went to BPI and got their adapter bushing holder that allows me to use the MEC bushing in both the DL and the PW machines. Now just a heads up for you, when you get started reloading these shot shells, keep in mind that the powder charts are a GUIDE ONLY!!!!!! As an example if the load data call for 18 grains of Alliant Red Dot, and the powder chart tells you it is bushing number 23, the correct way to go about setting up the correct bushing is to start with the number 23 in the bar without any shot loaded yet in your shot hopper, fill up your powder and then cycle the powder seven or eight times into a bowl and then return the powder to the hopper, then drop another load of powder and weigh it, only then do you go up to the next powder bushing if it measures under the specific load data amount. Same with if it is high, then you pull the bushing out and go to the next number down. THE BUSHING CHART IS JUST A GUIDE. You must weigh the powder drops in order to get the correct powder bushing in the setup. If the guide tells you #23 is the one, but your machine with bushing #25 is what gives you the correct amount of powder in grains, that is the one you should use. Also, always keep a static free small diameter cylinder handy, a once fired paper hull with fired primer still in it is handy. There will be times when you want to drop some powder and weigh it while you are loading shells just to check the powder drop weight, having a non static container handy is nice, use it to dump powder into for the weight check and then dump it back into the hopper, you are then going to want to put it back under the drop tube so you can then cycle the shot into the empty paper hull also so you can get the machine back to the starting cycle of having the charge bar over at the powder side of the cycle process. And then of course pour the shot back into the shot hopper and you are ready to resume your loading.
Here is a picture of the powder bushing adapter from BPI. and my plastic organizer for my shot and powder bushing for all my reloaders, MEC, PW and the DL.

Bushing Converter: MEC to PW, RCBS or Hornady
https://s19.postimg.org/nc6zc4deb/2018-03-11_05_32_14-_Bushing_Converter_MEC_to_PW_RCBS_or_Hornad.png (https://postimages.org/)

https://s19.postimg.org/r9u91hahf/20180301_130143.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/c14bnpgsv/)

[DonMountain]

jessdigs, did you ever get your primer setup squared away? I just use a short piece of spring that fits in the slot around the center primer anvil to hold the primer on the center, but compresses when you push the hull down to reprime it. Then the spring expands so you can drop another primer in.

[jessdigs]

Jessdigs,

Your charge bar looks very much like my dl 155. If so, you can use the same bushings as Hornady or Ponsness Warren. I will measure the inside diameter of the shot and powder holes in mine and post it for you today. If they are the same and depending on what gauges you plan to reload for, cause that will determine what size shot bushings you need you can get them from whoever has them in stock and or the cheapest. I got #'s 4,5,6,7,8 from Ponsness Warren direct from Idaho, they also fit my DL-155 and my Ponsness Warren model 375. Both of my machines also use the same powder bushings, but since I already had about 35 powder bushing from having four MEC loaders in four different gauges I just went to BPI and got their adapter bushing holder that allows me to use the MEC bushing in both the DL and the PW machines. Now just a heads up for you, when you get started reloading these shot shells, keep in mind that the powder charts are a GUIDE ONLY!!!!!! As an example if the load data call for 18 grains of Alliant Red Dot, and the powder chart tells you it is bushing number 23, the correct way to go about setting up the correct bushing is to start with the number 23 in the bar without any shot loaded yet in your shot hopper, fill up your powder and then cycle the powder seven or eight times into a bowl and then return the powder to the hopper, then drop another load of powder and weigh it, only then do you go up to the next powder bushing if it measures under the specific load data amount. Same with if it is high, then you pull the bushing out and go to the next number down. THE BUSHING CHART IS JUST A GUIDE. You must weigh the powder drops in order to get the correct powder bushing in the setup. If the guide tells you #23 is the one, but your machine with bushing #25 is what gives you the correct amount of powder in grains, that is the one you should use. Also, always keep a static free small diameter cylinder handy, a once fired paper hull with fired primer still in it is handy. There will be times when you want to drop some powder and weigh it while you are loading shells just to check the powder drop weight, having a non static container handy is nice, use it to dump powder into for the weight check and then dump it back into the hopper, you are then going to want to put it back under the drop tube so you can then cycle the shot into the empty paper hull also so you can get the machine back to the starting cycle of having the charge bar over at the powder side of the cycle process. And then of course pour the shot back into the shot hopper and you are ready to resume your loading.
Here is a picture of the powder bushing adapter from BPI. and my plastic organizer for my shot and powder bushing for all my reloaders, MEC, PW and the DL.

Bushing Converter: MEC to PW, RCBS or Hornady
https://s19.postimg.org/nc6zc4deb/2018-03-11_05_32_14-_Bushing_Converter_MEC_to_PW_RCBS_or_Hornad.png (https://postimages.org/)

https://s19.postimg.org/r9u91hahf/20180301_130143.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/c14bnpgsv/)
Thanks for the advice. I wouldn't dare of loading any cartridge without triple checking the powder weight. It's good to know I can still get the bushings.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[jessdigs]

jessdigs, did you ever get your primer setup squared away? I just use a short piece of spring that fits in the slot around the center primer anvil to hold the primer on the center, but compresses when you push the hull down to reprime it. Then the spring expands so you can drop another primer in.
Yes, I did what you said and used a HF spring in the recessed circular space around the priming stationhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180323/d6c7237c06fd022f75c745127de0f6e3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180323/6d5bb03aa0693e1dd01d8262c525d6fe.jpg

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[jeepwm69]

Don't give up on Trapshooters.com they are the single place where there is more info on shotshell loading other than BPI.

Lots of times they don't like guys who's first post is a question about something they feel is obvious or could be answered by searching the site with the search function. Your question has probably been answered 100 times before and even here lots of guys will look but not reply even when they know the answer.

When I got my DL266 in 12 ga. I got a DL150 with it both for $100. I turned around and sold the DL150 on the same site a week later for $100 so I got the DL266 for free. The DL266 is arguably the best single stage Shotshell press ever made and Hornady dropped it after they took over the line. I have one in .410 that I had to pay $250 for off Trapshooters.com. It is the only place to look when looking for Shotgun related stuff.

I also got 1000 OF .410 Hulls offTS.com as there isn't any other place to get stuff like that. I have bought two shotguns, 2500 12ga hulls, sold Spolar and a Dillon SL900 there.

To give you an idea how much traffic that place gets My Browning Citori Sporting Clays edition in .410 was on the site for exactly 7 minutes before I got it. There was an identical 28 ga. gun from the same seller on for exactly 1 minute before it sold!

Lastly if Don Verna had not told me about the Cast Boolits site when I was posting about the reloading.40 S&W cartridge over at TS.com, I never would have known about this place.

Give them another try or search your topic in the search function and you'll get some response.

Randy

Necromacing an old thread here, but I just bought a set of 410 dies for a 266 and was curious on setting them up.

I loaded quite a bit on a 266 when I was teenager. My best friend's grandfather had one set up in the basement of his store, and we loaded a lot of shells on that 266.

I'd always kind of had my eyes out for a 266, and finally got one about a year ago. I have since picked up 16 ga dies and a couple of weeks ago, 410 dies. The 410 final size die is a 3". Is there any way to "modify" that to work for 2 1/2" shells? I've already contacted Hornady, and no luck there. If it works like I think it does, I'm thinking I might be able to trim the 3" die by 1/2" and that would load 2 1/2" shells, but then can I back the final size die up 1/2" and load 3" shells or am I stuck trying to find the proverbial needle in a haystack 2 1/2" 410 sizing die?

I also have a 105 with 20 gauge dies on it, and thought I might be able to use those on the 266, but looks like most of the bits there are going to be slightly different, so I've added a set of 20ga 266/155 dies to my search list.

I got a set of 28ga dies with the 105, and sold those and recouped my initial expense in buying the presses.

[15meter]

Haven't owned a Pacific press in years, but I still have MEC's in .410, 28, 20, 16 and 12. I've only been concerned about resizing the brass or steel head to get shotgun shells to chamber. I would think that would be the same with the Pacifica.

I would think that getting the wad guide, crimp start and final crimp to the right height might be more of a challenge.