PID Pictures

[jcourson]

Because function isn't always the only thing that matters (I prefer my projects to look clean):
While I am waiting on my final few components to arrive, does anyone want to show off their finished PID projects?

[Mike W1]

I could but of my 4 units I have to admit they're not particularly items of beauty. But all functional. Don't forget to install the little K type panel so you can switch TC's easily when called for though you could add one later on of course. Mine differ from most in that I like that panel on the front side of unit as well as the outlet and prefer an attached power cord which is on the back side. With 4 of them I have no need to move them around!

[jcourson]

Even "ugly" boxes can provide ideas for layout. For instance, I had already planned for the outlet to be on the face of the box and panel mounted instead of a cable so seeing how your's turned out couild reinforce that idea (or change it completely - how ugly are we talking here? ;) )

[Yodogsandman]

Here's mine, made the case from an old metal, file card box. It's the tan colored box in the top, left.

[HATCH]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/e6f1d91d819a446e310231d42c8ea357.jpg

[Mike W1]

OK here's one of them and they're all on this order. Not pretty like I said and my photo skills not that wonderful either. One other thing I did on 3 of em' was put a SPDT switch in there so the outlet could be always hot or controlled by the PID. I mostly found that feature only really useful in getting a hot plate up to temperature a bit faster. In reality not that useful I guess but gave me something to do!

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[Mike W1]

Here's the last one I built which actually only ever gets used on my luber heater. Little smaller dimensions and w/o the SPDT switch and this one just has a standard 15 amp outlet on the rear side. FWIW I used a Auber PID on the 1st one I built but the last 3 all use the Rex C100 at about $34 less. Have had fine results with them and don't even miss not reading in F °. Also found I really never set the alarms on the Auber anyhow so didn't wire extra indicators on the Rex units either.

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[dikman]

Mike, I also fitted a PID bypass switch. My Promelt heats up quicker initially if I use this.

[pressonregardless]

214753

[lightman]

I think it would be useful to use a SPDT switch wired to bypass the PID and the outlet and only get the temp read out.

[Mike W1]

I think it would be useful to use a SPDT switch wired to bypass the PID and the outlet and only get the temp read out.

I'd have to double check but I think my SPDT swtches have the middle section as OFF which would do that chore. See lower reply of mine.

[HATCH]

I think it would be useful to use a SPDT switch wired to bypass the PID and the outlet and only get the temp read out.


Thats easy to do.
All you need to do is run the SSR Postive feed (control side low voltage) thru the switch.
You don't need to do anything with the outlet feed or anything crazy like that.

I have yet to see a SSR fail in the closed position (making contact and providing voltage out).

[Mike W1]

Thats easy to do.
All you need to do is run the SSR Postive feed (control side low voltage) thru the switch.
You don't need to do anything with the outlet feed or anything crazy like that.

I have yet to see a SSR fail in the closed position (making contact and providing voltage out).

Think I gotta go with Hatch on this, but mines already wired and probably not gonna change it/them now. My middle position OFF shuts the power to PID entirely. On the other hand if you want to just use the PID as a thermometer just unplug the load from the outlet. PID will still have it's power on to read the TC signal.

[stumpjumper]

Here is mine boxes came from lowes214791

[stumpjumper]

Pressonregardless good lookin piece of equipment

[bbogue1]

Looking for an enclosure I came across a kids lunch box. I wanted two PIDs in one box. One would control the mold hotplate and other would control the bottom pour pot. Works great. Both RexC100's. In the picture I was still testing them and had not secured either into the lunchbox.

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Not pretty, very functional and sure is a conversation starter.

[desiko]

214753
Hey pressonregardless, nice job. Very clean.

[pressonregardless]

Hey pressonregardless, nice job. Very clean.


Pressonregardless good lookin piece of equipment

Thanks guys, friend of mine came up with this design. Really easy to program & maintains temperature
really well. Trying to figure out if it makes sense to start offering them for the Lee pots. Have to order
a substantial quantity of the PID unit due to the simplified program. Still kicking the idea around.

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[jcourson]

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No issues with the tinsel fairy damaging the PID screen?

[Grmps]

pressonregardless that is definitely a space-saving clean look.

No offense meant, but to me, it also kind of resembles a toilet[smilie=s:

[pressonregardless]

No issues with the tinsel fairy damaging the PID screen?

Well if the tinsel fairy were to pay a visit there is always a possibility of some lead landing on
the face of the PID & everywhere else for that matter. Really try my best to avoid visits at all
cost. Guess I have used mine about 6 hours give or take & so far it looks like new. Being a bottom
pour, haven't really seen a bunch of splashing going on. Learned early on to be careful when dropping
rejects back into the pot to do so gently.


pressonregardless that is definitely a space-saving clean look.

No offense meant, but to me, it also kind of resembles a toilet[smilie=s:

You know, I think your right, it does kinda' look like one now that you mention it !!

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[woodbutcher]

[smilie=s: Well,at least it`s stainless.It should be easy to clean:redneck:.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

So I was casting today. NOE 358-128-SWC and took a photo of the batch, then I thought of this thread and took the PID unit off the shelf and took a few photo's.

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[Grmps]

That is one well vented PID Jon :)

[jsizemore]

As it should be. I used a Oneac power conditioner case about 3x larger then Jon's made of 1/8" thick aluminum. It also acts as the heatsink for the SSR. Lots of ventilation.

[lar45]

Here's a few pics of mine.
http://www.lsstuff.com/pics/pid/mypin-front.jpg

http://www.lsstuff.com/pics/pid/mypin-back.jpg

http://www.lsstuff.com/pics/pid/pid-back-01.jpg

http://www.lsstuff.com/pics/pid/pid-01.jpg

http://www.lsstuff.com/pics/pid/mypin.jpg

http://www.lsstuff.com/pics/pid/pid-04.jpg

[Rizzo]

Here's a few pics of mine.


Good job lar45.
Looks nice and tidy.

I see you used a thermocouple probe receptacle in the rear.
That makes it easier to store the unit.

On the three that I have built I chose to wire the probe directly on to the PID.
I read that every termination point creates some error to the PID due to some voltage drop at each termination.
With the receptacle, I count three termination points compared to the one point when connecting directly to the PID.
How much error with three?...I don't know.
It's just something I read on the internet. (grin)

Well done.
Thanks for taking the time to post your pics.

[luis7]

Hi. That´s mine.
Greetings from España215193 215194.

[jcourson]

Done for now. I may add a thermocouple connector to the front at some point. I have the SSR mounted directly to the aluminum case, so some testing is in order to see if I need to add a heatsink to the back or not. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/48a91630c060bfd28d924d24677bde08.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/8855d72496f86b6c4c34f3505abcfc25.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/f616fd16fdb5aba95a5bb839fe8135f1.jpg

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[tward]

Luis7
That is a very clean looking build! Very neat wiring job, mine looks like I used a mixer to assemble it. Tim

[Taterhead]

These are some great photos. Lots of creative approaches. I never really thought about getting a PID for my ProMelt, but now I'm starting to have a little temp control envy.

[retread]

Good job lar45.
Looks nice and tidy.

I see you used a thermocouple probe receptacle in the rear.
That makes it easier to store the unit.

On the three that I have built I chose to wire the probe directly on to the PID.
I read that every termination point creates some error to the PID due to some voltage drop at each termination.
With the receptacle, I count three termination points compared to the one point when connecting directly to the PID.
How much error with three?...I don't know.
It's just something I read on the internet. (grin)

Well done.
Thanks for taking the time to post your pics.

I have heard that too. I would be interested to know if that is a concern. I am presently building two PIDs and have the plug assemblies but wondered if they might be a problem.

[Rizzo]

I have heard that too. I would be interested to know if that is a concern. I am presently building two PIDs and have the plug assemblies but wondered if they might be a problem.

Perhaps wire the probe directly and check temp at boiling water (212 F) and then repeat with your finished PID with receptacle and terminations.
Actually, checking it at your desired casting temp (725 F?) would be more of a test to see the difference, if any.

I'd check it but do not use the receptacle method.

[dikman]

While there may be a voltage drop at each termination point, it is going to be miniscule and for our needs irrelevant. We are not working to laboratory precision. Don't over think things.

[dragon813gt]

Mine was built by "He who must not be named". Could easily build one myself. But he was selling them for so little over cost it made no sense to take the time to build one myself.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/35818451303_7017929eb3_b.jpg

And yes, the high and low alarms are set up to trigger the lights. I like having them as all it takes is a quick glance and you know if things are good. I use the PID on my smoker as well. I can see the lights from inside my kitchen while the smoker sits 40' away.

[Mike W1]

Below is from Auber Instruments description of their panel/jack product. FWIW

"For accurate temperature measurements, thermocouple cables can’t be connected with connectors made with copper contact, unless both ends of the copper have the same temperature and identical chemical purity. This can be difficult to achieve sometimes because the temperature inside the project box is different than the temperature outside. The contact pin in each side of a connector probably has different chemical compositions because there is no requirement for them to be identical for regular applications. Using connectors specially made for thermocouples will avoid this problem. The contacts of this pair of connectors are made of the same material as the K type thermocouples. Using it will not introduce error to the measurement. This is the best quality connector on the market. The panel jack is held in location by a spring lock. The mating connector contains a cable clamp that helps to secure large diameter cables."

[glockfan]

you guys are well versed into electronics....if i was that talented i would built one for my lee 4-20.

[Mal Paso]

Just finished mine today. Probably wouldn't have bothered with the switch or fuse if it weren't for all you guys watching.

SSR is mounted to the box with thermal paste. Should be a night light's worth of heat until it gets to temp, then much less.

My Pro Melt parts should be at the post office but there is a gale blowing outside and I may just stay next to the heater, to make sure it's operating properly.

[luis7]

Hi this is my second hand made pid, 2ª versión.
It´s for mould pre heating burner.215537215538215539

[razorfish]

I use my PID temperature controller for both casting boolits and smelting lead so I added a high temperature alarm with a bypass switch. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/53be26867a6c8dcbee1df9f67a6b6d0d.jpg


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[razorfish]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/974275775daa666dc7d0c1a8f986d0ca.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/6d60fc3e4e7f2e3146d849d92f77a3da.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/a616eaab9902011d15539e1f25486517.jpg


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[HATCH]

what are those two rectangle boxes on the bottom left of your 1st picture?
are those terminal strips?

btw - love the probe mount

[fralic76]

Here is a dual PID that I built for my melting pot and hot plate.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/6b9fc2e5e8372f31c7f20e0d45669ef9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/1f0dc70c8a99bcd47ca589f5417221e9.jpg

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[razorfish]

Yes, those are terminal strips. One for Line, the other for Neutral. It was getting a bit crowded in my little enclosure so to free up some space, I fab’ed an aluminum L bracket so they could mount on their sides.


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[razorfish]

Nice Fralic. What are the one amp fuses used for?


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[HATCH]

I know it most likely doesn't matter, but i was taught the line goes in on term 1 and load on term 2.
The SSR's I have don't specify but the ones I had back in the early 2000's did.

His fuses.

Each PID has a 1 amp fuse
Each Output has a 10 amp fuse

[fralic76]

Nice Fralic. What are the one amp fuses used for?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThe 1 amp is for the pid and the 10 amp is the main fuse before the switch.

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[razorfish]

I know it most likely doesn't matter, but i was taught the line goes in on term 1 and load on term 2.
The SSR's I have don't specify but the ones I had back in the early 2000's did.

His fuses.

Each PID has a 1 amp fuse
Each Output has a 10 amp fuse

Ah. I didn’t think about fusing the PID. I would think you would need a much smaller fuse to protect it.


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[Mr_Sheesh]

It's pretty hard to find fuses under 1 Amp unless you get fancy or don't mind paying a lot; A PID that goes south would likely blow a 1A fuse pretty fast. (Or the PID will explode, thus saving the expensive fuse from being blown.) You could use a polyswitch (acts as a self-resetting breaker, though a disabled friend, Roy, had some excitement when his 3d printer's control board had one go up in flames, setting everything on fire in the wiring harness of his 3d printer. He was a smart guy & had a couple electronics type fire extinguishers on hand fortunately.)

You can find electronics parts if you want other parts at findchips.com or just look at Digikey, Mouser, Element 14 / Newark, or oh so many others (but in the US those are the big 3 really.)

And safety tip - I would suggest a fire extinguisher on your reloading bench, PLEASE; Maybe one for electrical fires, like Roy had, plus a regular Dry Chem one, just because fires suck, near reloading components or human beings!

[Cast10]

Used a larger box for easier build access. Front panel comes off so made it super easy to add components.



https://imgur.com/a/wdGOtA1