How to calculate clicks for down range distances?

[Survival Bill]

I have a 30-06 with J and Cast bullets and want to figure out the clicks for distances I have it zero'ed at 100 yards for 180gr and would like to know how many clicks for 200 300 400 500 600 yards and so on how do I do the math my scope does 1/4 inch a click at 100 yards It cant be that hard can it? :veryconfu

also an attachment with the ballistics info for 180 grain bullet if needed...

if you can help me figure out how to calculate the clicks for one then I can figure out what I have to do for PC CB just to get me in the ball park for when I can go to the range and do some long range shooting with them where I can then fine tune things as I will be doing 150gr flat nose 180gr 200gr and 230gr all are lee molds I will have to try and find the Ballistic Coefficient / Velocity for them still or do I?

[country gent]

Scopes can be 1/8 moa, 1/4 moa or 1/2moa click adjustment. This translates for the 1/8 moa to 1/8" at 100yds, 1/4" at 200 yards, 3/8" at 300 yards, or 1.25 at 1000yds. In order to get what you want you need to know velocity and BC for the bullet being used. A online ballistic program will give you the drop for various ranges then depending on sights adjustment you can figure the number of clicks needed. The above used 1/8 moa. With the 30-06 and military load the 200-300 yd drop is around 9" or 3 min of angle so at 8 clicks to the min you need 24 clicks up from 200 to 300yds.

[John Boy]

I have a 30-06 with J and Cast bullets and want to figure out the clicks for distances I have it zero'ed at 100 yards for 180gr and would like to know how many clicks for 200 300 400 500 600 yards and so on
Bill, let me get you started:
* First you need to know the velocity of the round. Hope that you used a vendor's data base that has the velocity. If not, the velocity should be determined with a chronograph
* Ballistics Co-efficient (BC) is needed for the bullet ... http://gundata.org/ballistic-coefficient-calculator/
* You said you have the zero for 100yds, so now you need a trajectory table to plug in the needed elements using the table for Zero Range at 100yds ... http://www.shooterscalculator.com/ballistic-trajectory-chart.php
* Set the table "Chart Range" to 600 yds for 100 yard increments or if you want to 1000 yards
* Run the trajectory table that will be in inches or you can add MOA
Then based on the # of clicks for your scope, use the numbers that country gent posted:

Scopes can be 1/8 moa, 1/4 moa or 1/2moa click adjustment. This translates for the 1/8 moa to 1/8" at 100yds, 1/4" at 200 yards, 3/8" at 300 yards, or 1.25 at 1000yds.
>>>>>>>>>Print the table for your range box
Now, Point of Impact (POI) is variable to the day's weather elements so POI may change for X hits. A good method without expending a lot of rounds to get on the X is:
* Fire 2-3 round at a given distance. Determine the mid point of the holes. Holding the barrel steady, put the cross hairs on the mid point you just shot and move the cross hairs to the X for windage and elevation. Fire a couple of rounds to confirm you on the X
* PENCIL ADJUST your trajectory table settings for that yardage and your Good to Go
Next day at the range, your in the X ballpark and just make the minor scope adjustment(s) for the weather conditions on that day

Okie Dookie? Gut Zeil

[Survival Bill]

Yup that helps I got it figured out by clicks now and have lots of numbers by clicks now for all the bullet weights I want to setup I am also going to make a nice big/tall custom scope turret so I can mark it just to make it easy on me once I have it all setup...

I did this for my .22 but for a fixed distance 25 yards but with different ammo standered velocity and subsonic so going to try and do that
for the 30-06

The numbers/clicks will help me be in the ball park for trajectory were I can fine tune at a range and then mark it on my turret.
OK so it was not as hard as I made it out to be in my tiny brain LOL....

180 gr 300 yards 49 clicks
" " 350 yards 80 clicks
200 gr

230 gr 300 yards 98 clicks
350 yards 151 clicks

I think this will get a bit tedious after a while counting clicks...
but worth it in the end for me.

and so on and once I have it dead on after fine tuning I mark that range on the turret
and again with each different bullet weight I will use a different color pen to mark turret


well that's the plan I will let you all know how it works out it will be a while till I get to this project I have to put on the turret and cast allot of bullets and powder coat and load em up but its not like I dont have the time to do it I already have a couple locations I can use for a range I think I will max it out at 500 yards as I don't know how many clicks max I can get out of a scope as its what 80 clicks around at 1/4 how many full rotations could a scope have I am just guessing I will have 2 rotations I will have to test that just to see...

[BK7saum]

I never bother counting clicks. My turrets are marked in MOA. The table should give you the MOA adjustment for the yardage. Just spin the dial the correct amount of MOA and you are there. Some turrets are 12MOA per revolution, some are more or less. Depends on the scope. Just read the MOA value of adjustment and dial away.

[Cap'n Morgan]

Most scopes are somewhere between 60 to 80 clicks for a full turn of the turret - once you know how many it's easier to count full turns + clicks. You may have to use an angled scope mount not to run out of adjustment at the longer ranges.

[high standard 40]

You also need to factor in the height of the scope above the line of the bore. Most published ballistics tables use a standard of 1.5" above the bore. If your scope is markedly higher than 1.5" it will alter your downrange adjustments.

[John Boy]

... and if you didn't that should be done after getting base line setting - unscrew the E & W plates and set them to zero. Then when you spin the 60 or 80 clicks + the extra, going back to base line is easier if you do the reset to base line before you leave the range and forgot the last distance you shot at :oops:

[John Boy]

The table should give you the MOA adjustment for the yardage.
FYI ...The posted trajectory calculator has the provision to add an extra column for MOA or MIL in addition to inches
Might add: Both programs that I posted can be downloaded to you computer also

[Survival Bill]

my clicks calculations are flawed above I think what I did was take the drop in inches and convert them to clicks so for the 12.3 inches it was x4 to give me the 49 clicks which is wrong right I would have been shooting way to high.. but at the time this seemed correct still does but its to many clicks right?

zero 100 yards

180 gr 300 yards 49 clicks 12.3 inches
" " 350 yards 80 clicks 20 inches

Finally after getting my brain wrapped around this MOA thing I got it figured out now right?
300 yards 15.6 clicks for -3.9moa
350 yards 22 clicks for -5.5moa

My problem is also I have to make a larger custom turret for my scope it does not have moa printed on it I only have the option of counting clicks once I have the new turret on the scope I can then mark zero for each bullet weight and mark clicks on it. time consuming sure but once done its done.

[BK7saum]

Your math doesn't seem to be adding up. You're getting on the right track but not there yet.

Think about it like this
For a 1 click = 1/4 moa scope
1 click at 100 = 1/4 inch
1 click at 200 = 1/2 inch
1 click at 300 = 3/4 inch
1 click at 400 = 1 inch

The bullet path is an angle (minute of angle) 1/60th of 1 degree. As you move further from the muzzle, the amount of distance 1 click equals gets larger.

14 inch drop at 350 yards = 14 / 3.5 = 4 moa or 16 clicks with a 1/4 moa scope.

It is easier to think in 100 yard increments though.

If you have a smart phone a ballistics calculator is a great tool. However if you can pull up an online ballstics calculator and input your info, then print a range card to put in range bag or tape to stock.


Hope this helped.

[BK7saum]

After pulling up the drop chart, all you need to worry about is the MOA column if you have an MOA scope. If the adjustments are 1/4 moa, then just dial up that amount.

350 yards is 5.5 moa. That is 22 clicks of 1/4 moa each.
For 100 yards there is 44.1 moa of drop. That is 44 x 4 = 176 clicks

If you scope is 1/4 moa the individual marks are 1/4 moa units. If the scope has numbers marked at 4 click intervals then those are the whole number MOA values. Just dial the MOA and shoot.

[Survival Bill]

I used the moa that the printout gave me so it should be moa x4 for clicks.

This is all that I have for a turret no marking nadda its an old scope but works well for what it is so what I am going to do is glue on a new large turret that I can use to mark on with all the info needed. I am going to use a copper pipe cap as they are cheap and large enough to mark all the info I want on it.

214711

OH the ideas that are floating in my head right now..
What would be real handy right now is one of them 3D Printers oh the possibilities with one of those think of all the things one could make for your bang stick...
How about a 20 or 30 MOA scope mount that would really get one to shoot out their and less chance of running out of clicks at distance ..

[dk17hmr]

I'd tall target your scope to see if 1 click actually moves your point of impact 1/4" and to make sure it moves impacts straight up, and returns to zero, before getting carried away. You might find 80 clicks moves your impact 17" up and 3" right instead straight up 20".

After you do that it might be worth digging deeper.

[Survival Bill]

Yes you have a point their I will try and get out and test that.

But one can compensate for that too once known right.. or reset the scope in the mounts if bad enough.

[rking22]

May be just the way my head works, but I have ZERO confidence in my rifle hitting poa if I've been fiddling with the turrets on a hunting scope. Need to know what I last had it set for and did I put it back to " base" or not , I cant handle it. I am not organized enough. I do have 2 loads for my hunting rifles, and if its scoped I feel an overriding desire to shoot at least a check shot every time I take it out. On guns I zero and leave be , I have much more confidence. Talking hunting not target shooting here. Last miss was a coyote over the top cause my rifle was zeroed for a cast linker and I chucked in a fast jacket! Forgot about zeroing it for the cast! Takes some organization and discipline to keep it all straight, I dont have it. Some obviously do, heres hoping you have that gift :)

[UKShootist]

If you are blessed with owning an Android mobile phone then I strongly recommend an app named Strelok. I have it and I think it's one of the best aids to shooting you can get at the price, which is free for the basic version, and very little for the slightly more advanced one. I zero my rifles at 110 yards but shoot at longer ranges at events. Every time Strelok has got me on the paper and usually in the black on the first shot. It's also fairly easy to use.

[Survival Bill]

May be just the way my head works, but I have ZERO confidence in my rifle hitting poa if I've been fiddling with the turrets on a hunting scope. Need to know what I last had it set for and did I put it back to " base" or not , I cant handle it. I am not organized enough. I do have 2 loads for my hunting rifles, and if its scoped I feel an overriding desire to shoot at least a check shot every time I take it out. On guns I zero and leave be , I have much more confidence. Talking hunting not target shooting here. Last miss was a coyote over the top cause my rifle was zeroed for a cast linker and I chucked in a fast jacket! Forgot about zeroing it for the cast! Takes some organization and discipline to keep it all straight, I dont have it. Some obviously do, heres hoping you have that gift :)

I have no problem with that at all I like to tinker with stuff I always end up learning stuff good or bad ....
It helps one think outside the box...

[Survival Bill]

If you are blessed with owning an Android mobile phone then I strongly recommend an app named Strelok. I have it and I think it's one of the best aids to shooting you can get at the price, which is free for the basic version, and very little for the slightly more advanced one. I zero my rifles at 110 yards but shoot at longer ranges at events. Every time Strelok has got me on the paper and usually in the black on the first shot. It's also fairly easy to use.

Yes I have that program and others but I like to play with the MOA clicks I think it will give me more versatility in what I want to do shooting all different manner of bullet weights and I think it also will be a faster way to get zeroed in at distance when hunting by the time one would pull out and play with a program the opportunity could be long gone. I may be wrong but I will find out in the end for myself if it works or not.

[dk17hmr]

I carry an Applied Ballistics Kestrel when hunting. I have no problem getting a firing solution and range if the distance is far enough to warrant the use. You have to understand environmentals will make your predetermined click value not work in every situation.

The best thing I have found to do is build your own trajectory curve based on actual values you see in the field. When I an validating trajectory I'll get a solid 100 yard zero and a solid 800-1000 yards impact. With those known values any number of programs will spit out a custom curve.

The app Shooter gives clicks also.

[wonderwolf]

Get comfortable with MOA and its mathmatical values. You will find like others have stated you will need to verify, Just a 1%-2% error at 100 yards can mean a missed target at 600 yards. Recently I was working with a less than ideal scope set up that had 1/2 MOA adjustments.

I zeroed the gun at 50 yards as was recommended, all my data said I should be dead on at both 50 yards and 207 yards, Imagine my surprise when I found out I was low and to the right a whole foot when I moved to the line. After some mental gymnastics I realized that even when zeroing at 50 yards you're not giving yourself enough room for error for a reliable zero at a distance.

The rifle which I'm still working on for another match here in less than a month will need re zeroed since I obtained correct rings. I plan on zeroing it at 200 yards first (bore site at 100) and then going to 50 yards and seeing how off I am there. The further shots count more than the close ones, the less you are off at the further distances the more precise you are closer in.

[country gent]

If you want to zero at 50 yds for distance quick and easy the army had a "thermometer" target for this. 50 was zero then 100 yds and 100 yds increments after to 1000 yds. Rhese were set up for 30 calibers.

Get your trajectory table from a good ballistics program using accurate BCs Sectional Densities and velocities. SEt to 50 yds zero and longer ranges you want. the chart will show how high each is at 50 yds. Make a target with a bull low and a line up the center and a cross line at each yardages height. zero at fifty on the bull. come up aim at bull and adjust to the next yardlines cross keeping track of the number of clicks you came up.

[Survival Bill]

I realize that MOA will not be perfect but it will get me into the general ballpark I hope to where I can fine tune at that time and mark it on the turret is what I am planning.
Then when hunting I just need to use the range finder turn the turret to distance marked on turret and shoot again that's the plan I am thinking about.

[dk17hmr]

I hope it works out for you but don't be surprised when your known data in the summer doesn't match results in the field in the fall.

[wonderwolf]

If you want to zero at 50 yds for distance quick and easy the army had a "thermometer" target for this. 50 was zero then 100 yds and 100 yds increments after to 1000 yds. Rhese were set up for 30 calibers.

Get your trajectory table from a good ballistics program using accurate BCs Sectional Densities and velocities. SEt to 50 yds zero and longer ranges you want. the chart will show how high each is at 50 yds. Make a target with a bull low and a line up the center and a cross line at each yardages height. zero at fifty on the bull. come up aim at bull and adjust to the next yardlines cross keeping track of the number of clicks you came up.

I've done this before when setting up a zero for a 1000 yard iron sight gun for camp perry, if your bullet speed is accurate it works REALLY well......that being said the chrono I've used the past few months (borrowed) must be off because the holes in paper do not agree with where the math says they should be.

[Survival Bill]

Ah yes I do want to get a chrono very soon as I am just **** curious about what my cast reloads will be doing and their not that bad a price for what they are..

I doubt I will be doing much hunting at 1000 yards just want to do it so I have the knowledge on how to do it shooting at paper.
I think my ranges max for hunting will be 500 yards that is if I can even find those kind of open spaces to hunt...

[Survival Bill]

I hope it works out for you but don't be surprised when your known data in the summer doesn't match results in the field in the fall.

OH yes I do understand I will be doing testing in fall conditions and at altitude just for my own information on how things work out and change..

[Cap'n Morgan]

Not wanting to hijack the thread, but this is one way to make an adjustable turret:

I believe things should be as simple as possible when the going gets tough and the hunting fever sets in. I'm not good at counting clicks under stress, so I made this turret for my .270 with a Swarovski scope. The turret replaces the original turret cover (which holds the illumination unit for the cross hairs) and can be switched without changing zero. The turret is blocked from making more than one turn - that way I can turn it down to the stop and the zero will be set to 100 meters. Max range is 450 meters before hitting the stop in the other direction - more range than I'll ever need for hunting. The turret is calibrated for my favorite hunting load of which I only have one - Again, keep things simple!

http://i.imgur.com/eJ5Uuyi.jpg

The small screw holds the upper part of the turret in place and act as a stop and zero-marker at the same time. Once the bottom part has been screwed on the scope, the top part is pushed down, engaging the splines on the scope's adjustment knob (while making sure the setting matches the scope's). The screw is then tightened and you can now dial-a-range, nice eh?
Two o-rings provide a slight friction between top & bottom part and seals the unit at the same time.

https://i.imgur.com/RCBfFeg.jpg

[Survival Bill]

If you are blessed with owning an Android mobile phone then I strongly recommend an app named Strelok. I have it and I think it's one of the best aids to shooting you can get at the price, which is free for the basic version, and very little for the slightly more advanced one. I zero my rifles at 110 yards but shoot at longer ranges at events. Every time Strelok has got me on the paper and usually in the black on the first shot. It's also fairly easy to use.

After taking a close look at things and how long it really does take to pull out the phone and look at info it is very doable and very versatile it will give fast shooting solutions at what ever distance or at least as far as my range finder will do.
And it will save me the time and energy to mark my turrets for all the different bullet selections I will be using and making a mess of my turret markings

I did get my turret marking all figured out it has 60 clicks for one revolution and I have 120 clicks to play with so I get 2 revolutions or 120 clicks to play with took me a bit to lay it out on paper and print it out but I printed out a few extra as backup and the new turret that I will be putting on is 1" and I am happy with the setup I also made a printout for windage I have never played with windage before so more stuff for me to learn and try out.

Thanks to all that are helping me out sometimes advice from others is hard to take from this hardhead but in time I see it guys and it sinks in...

[Survival Bill]

Not wanting to hijack the thread, but this is one way to make an adjustable turret:

I believe things should be as simple as possible when the going gets tough and the hunting fever sets in. I'm not good at counting clicks under stress, so I made this turret for my .270 with a Swarovski scope. The turret replaces the original turret cover (which holds the illumination unit for the cross hairs) and can be switched without changing zero. The turret is blocked from making more than one turn - that way I can turn it down to the stop and the zero will be set to 100 meters. Max range is 450 meters before hitting the stop in the other direction - more range than I'll ever need for hunting. The turret is calibrated for my favorite hunting load of which I only have one - Again, keep things simple!

http://i.imgur.com/eJ5Uuyi.jpg

The small screw holds the upper part of the turret in place and act as a stop and zero-marker at the same time. Once the bottom part has been screwed on the scope, the top part is pushed down, engaging the splines on the scope's adjustment knob (while making sure the setting matches the scope's). The screw is then tightened and you can now dial-a-range, nice eh?
Two o-rings provide a slight friction between top & bottom part and seals the unit at the same time.

https://i.imgur.com/RCBfFeg.jpg

Ya I looked online for after market turrets I could put on but no luck not that big a deal gave me something to do today making my own custom printed bands for the new turrets I am going to hot glue on was going to go with epoxy but the hot glue I can adjust if needed and I will be able to remove the turret in the future if needed..

[Survival Bill]

I can see now that I will need 20 or 30 MOA angled scope mount if I want to get out to 1000 yards I will have to see if I can find one that fits my scope setup right now I can get to 800 yards max good enough really for what I want to do....

This has been an interesting endeavor for me I have the info now for when I really want to build a custom long range rifle and I will have the skills to go with it.

The rifle I am using is nothing special at all its just one I like to hunt with I am comfortable with it in the bush and just want to upgrade my skills.

[Artful]

You can put a shim under your existing scope mount base to elevate if you can't find a mount - if you do buy a mount I recommend a one pcs.

[country gent]

For several years I helped out the night before the Bob Wright memorial put on by ORPA at Camp Perry. My job or help consisted of working with the new shooters. I had my laptop plugged in and the sierra infinity program up and running. If they came to me I crunched the numbers for them as to velocity, temp, sight height, BC, SD and the other information. It only took a few minutes to do. I only ask that they caught me there the next day and let me know where their first shot was at. If given good numbers as to velocity sight height zero range and a good zero and bc Sierras program usually put them inside the 9 ring. A lot of times inside the 10 ring. Fed good accurate numbers these programs get you very close, I wouldn't depend on them for live game with out test firing at distance or on a thermometer target though.

I shot the M1A/M14 to 1000 yds in 7.62 X 51 / 308, with 175 grn sierras and the NM rear sight had plenty of elevation. My 243 with 105 JLK VLDS wouldn't zero at 200 with a 20 min base. But the reticle was much closer to optic center at 600 and 1000 yds.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Personally I don't mess with the scope once it's properly zeroed; If you change the clicks and get distracted or forget you set it for 400 yards or whatever you can end up missing a shot, so I learned long ago to do the windage and holdover in my head, it's very doable and works pretty well. Just remember (if you have a zoom scope) to compensate for the zoom. It helps to shoot that particular rifle a LOT, of course :)

[tdoor4570]

I gave up counting clicks when I learned how to use a mil-dot scope. I have shot the dots and know where to hold for what ever distance .

[Mauser 98K]

first of all, make you a rifle data book.. put into this data book the range corrections for your rifle and particular ammo combination. also write into this book the performance of your rifle/ammo combination per different shooting conditions. write into this data book the calculations needed to correct range,wind, angled shot, etc. note the direction of the light also because that can heave a bearing on your POI. you will not believe how many people will start cussing the rifle because their POI changes when the direction of the light changes because they do not know what is going on or how to compensate. also get you a cheek piece or make one. you might not think it would make any difference but a differentiation of cheek weld can move that POI over a foot depending on the range you are shooting. also you can do like a real sniper data book and go around measuring every day things and writing down the dimensions in the back of your book for more accurate ranging. this can be road signs, milk jugs, 55gal drums, car rims per particular make and model vehicle, etc. be as detailed as you can be. obviously if your not in a tactical situation or are never planning on using your rifle for tactical purposes this step can be skipped.

but as for calculations.. one good one to know how far your POI moves per click value is Estimated range divided by 100 multiplied by the number of clicks on the turret will give you the amount of movement per click at that range. so at 500Yards you would end up with something like this. 500 divided by 100 = 5... 5 multiplied by .75 MOA (3 clicks on the turret for a 1/4 MOA scope) = 3.75 MOA movement of the POI at 500Yards..

another good one is the ranging for your scope. if you have a mill-dot scope then. size of target in yards multiplied by 1000 divided by mills read = range. or for smaller objects. size of target in inches multiplied by 27.8 divided by mills read = range.

now if your a lazy bugger you can skip most of everything and get what is called a Milldot Master http://8541tactical.com/mildotmaster.php and then all you would need to know would be the range, bullet drop, and environmental conditions. it is a slide rule calculator that does the adjustment calculations for you.

[Survival Bill]

I did find and printed out a few pages worth for my personal Rifle Data book data logging as well as printed out reloading logs lots of great info online once you know what your looking for.
Unfortunately I do not have a mill dot scope but I may upgrade the scope along with a 20 or 30 MOA mount if I end up really enjoying this part of our sport enough to do it or build up a new rifle just for long distance shooting I am reading that short barrels are more accurate less barrel acoustics/vibration or some such thing we are allowed short barrels here if made from the factory. I don't know about going to a more powerful round as I really did not like the recoil of a 7mm mag I once owned although one rifle does pull my interest now the Alaskan 50 I am gathering what info I can on this one along with what reloading and casting dies and molds are out their and if they are available to me here in Canada but think we have a ban on 50 cal and above here but one can dream the dream right that they cant take away from us...

[country gent]

Look at the 243 Winchester with a 1-7 twist barrel also. The long VLDs Shot very well for me at 1000yds with very light recoil. For awhile here the "hot" caliber for 1000yd position shooting was the 6.5 X 284 did very good and lighter recoil than the big magnums.
In my 243 I shot 105 jlks, 107 sierras, and 107 grn starke flat base, Also 105 and 115 grn bergers.

[John Boy]

now if your a lazy bugger you can skip most of everything and get what is called a Milldot Master http://8541tactical.com/mildotmaster.php and then all you would need to know would be the range, bullet drop, and environmental conditions. it is a slide rule calculator that does the adjustment calculations for you Mauser: Thanks for the post with the Milldot Link. This 'cheat sheet' will be better than cranking and calculating. One of my scope mounted rifles is a 300 Win Mag with a Hi-Lux M-1000 'Camputer' that has a Mill-Dot reticle. It will used to shoot known size steel silhouettes at 200 to 500 meters and known size steel silhouettes from 700 to 1000yds. Have the trajectory tables for the reloads so distance drops are known. The Milldot Master is going to be a great aid for faster group adjustments. Again - Thanks - I just ordered one

[jmorris]

If you have a good rest, good rifle and good load, you don’t need to calculate, just count.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PG13s1bj-jw

[Survival Bill]

Look at the 243 Winchester with a 1-7 twist barrel also. The long VLDs Shot very well for me at 1000yds with very light recoil. For awhile here the "hot" caliber for 1000yd position shooting was the 6.5 X 284 did very good and lighter recoil than the big magnums.
In my 243 I shot 105 jlks, 107 sierras, and 107 grn starke flat base, Also 105 and 115 grn bergers.

The Wife has a 243 she loves hers and they are all DRT shots.. Its a great Caliber.

The 30-06 has spawned off a fare number of other cartridge calibers I wonder if it wins the prize for that!

[country gent]

Those bullets mentioned in the fast twist barrel ( it is a custom endeavor I don't know any factory 1-7 243 barrel rifles. But the blanks are available) do very well in the wind and downrange. Definitly not hunting bullets but very accurate and easy shooting. The only draw back to the 243 for over the coarse and target use is barrel life is short. My first hart barrel went 2300 rds when I started loosing X count at 600yds. The next Krieger Barrel went 2600 rds. The model 70 now wears a Krieger barrel with 1200 thru it. My AR10 243 upper is a Krieger 1-7 with roughly 1000 rds gone. As a side note The other upper is a fast twist 22-250 ( 1-7) that's deadly at 600 with 80 grn JLKs ( one evening I put 11 of 20 rounds in a 1 1/2" spotting disc at 600 yds. But I'm only expecting 1800 rds from this kreiger barrel. But if recoil is a real concern a 22-250 with a 1-7 twist might suit your needs also. As a long range gun only the short barrel life isn't as big a issue since there arnt as many long range matches a year.