ruger SBH bisley hunter trigger

[Oklahoma Rebel]

the trigger on my new SBH bisley hunter is fine, but I noticed that it has some travel before it actually " breaks", now after dry firing it only 3-4 times, I have already gotten to where I can pull the trigger back to right before it breaks, to kind of "set" it, it is very consistent, but was wondering if there is and adjustment, or any tricks to reducing that "pre-break" travel, or is this something that will get better as it breaks in. now this is with the stock trigger spring, I was going to consider lifting one leg of the spring off, but honestly, the trigger pull weight is fine. but would that make any difference in the long travel before releasing the hammer? ( that's what I mean when I say "breaking" thanks guys, cant wait to update you all on how she shoots! theres a pic in favorite loads, in the 265 keith and W296 thread, in case you care,lol- thanks again!-Travis

[newton]

One of the first things I did was the "poor man's trigger job". I figured it couldn't hurt. I tested the trigger before I put the grips back on just to make sure it was good. I think it helped.

But I still do notice that slight bit of creep you do. It's not as noticeable until you are actually trying to focus on the target and squeeze the trigger - then it seems like forever before it breaks, moving ever so slightly until it does. I'm hoping it will wear in, but I am sure a good smith could fix it up fine(not in my budget).

I'll be interested to hear the guys who have had these for a while relating their experience.

[gray wolf]

Hammer notch travel is to long, the trigger sear is sliding on it.
Nothing but a trigger job of sorts will fix it.
You might get it a little smoother but the creep will not go away.

[contender1]

Either a good action job,,, or lots of shooting with a good lube in the action will help smooth things up a bit. I know a lot of folks do it,,, but I'm not a fan of lifting a leg of the trigger return spring off to make an action feel better. Why? Because I have personally bought GOOD guns cheap because they were binding up when cocked. All that was required was a return of the leg to the hook. (My best one to date was a 357 Maximum,, for $260.00 because of this.)
I totally prefer a proper action job.

[gray wolf]

Smoothing out the parts DOES NOT remove trigger creep.
you have to reduce the travel of the parts.

[gnostic]

I had the trigger done on my 3 screw SBH and it was the best money I ever spent...

[Dale53]

Every Ruger I have shot, seen, or owned (and I own a number of them) has required a trigger job. I have done some myself, and had some professionally done. I am NOT slamming Ruger, just stating a fact.

So, first thing to do is have a trigger job done. I, fortunately, have a good pistolsmith who is also reasonable, and I truly appreciate it.

You only have to do it once and your shooting will improve almost immediately.

FWIW
Dale53

[lefty o]

Smoothing out the parts DOES NOT remove trigger creep.
you have to reduce the travel of the parts.

travel is the takeup, creep is the actual gritty feeling between the hammer and sear, and yes stoning those parts is what will remove creep.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

it really is smooth, considering that it is a new revolver. I kind of figured that it was something that could only be done by a gunsmith, but thought I'd ask anyways, and since that's not in the budget, I can just get used to it. as someone with not so much money, I have learned to live with these kind of things, and it isn't dampening my spirits anyways! like I said, after only a few dryfires, I have already gotten a good idea of how much to pull before it breaks, so unless I go into competition ( not gonna) its fine! thanks guys!-Travis

[454PB]

Either a good action job,,, or lots of shooting with a good lube in the action will help smooth things up a bit. I know a lot of folks do it,,, but I'm not a fan of lifting a leg of the trigger return spring off to make an action feel better. Why? Because I have personally bought GOOD guns cheap because they were binding up when cocked. All that was required was a return of the leg to the hook. (My best one to date was a 357 Maximum,, for $260.00 because of this.)
I totally prefer a proper action job.

This is exactly what happened to mine. I bought it from my Son, who had done the "poor man's trigger job". As soon as I returned the spring to it's normal position, the hang ups went away.

[newton]

Either a good action job,,, or lots of shooting with a good lube in the action will help smooth things up a bit. I know a lot of folks do it,,, but I'm not a fan of lifting a leg of the trigger return spring off to make an action feel better. Why? Because I have personally bought GOOD guns cheap because they were binding up when cocked. All that was required was a return of the leg to the hook. (My best one to date was a 357 Maximum,, for $260.00 because of this.)
I totally prefer a proper action job.

This will be good info to tuck into my mind. Thanks. I had never heard this before when doing research, but it makes sense it could happen.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

new springs are cheap enough that its worth it to me, if I ddecide to get a new spring i'll go for the 40 oz, which is 2.5lbs, 30oz seems a tad too light

[oldhenry]

A Wolfe trigger return spring will help, but the engagement notch on the hammer must be reduced to get a truly good trigger w/o the travel. I do my own & have the stones & a 3"X6" plate glass for the stones to slide on & the hammer to rest on to assure everything remains square. I realize this not for everyone.

May I suggest DougGuy of this forum: I believe he can alter your hammer properly. To me his charges are very reasonable.

You'll fall in love with that Ruger.

Henry

[dubber123]

They are very easy to do properly, the notch on the hammer is much too deep on almost all Rugers. Don't fall for reduced power mainsprings, the lock time on a Ruger S/A is slow as it is, and a soft spring makes it worse.

I won't do the leg off thing either, I can feel the leg dragging every time, and its just a hokey way of doing business. The return spring alone is responsible for a few pounds of weight. Its easy to re shape the factory return spring so both legs are used. It really isn't hard to get a crisp 2 pound, (or whatever weight you want) Ruger S/A trigger for free using all factory parts. I have a couple I did that are lighter, but generally I set at 2.5#. The internal parts are not hard. Once you see the amount you need to remove, you can take the bulk off quickly with a common file before finishing with stones. Once you feel a crisp trigger, you are spoiled. :)

[Bazoo]

you can try marrying the parts. Cock it, run a couple drops oil down the hammer front so it'll get on the sear,
then , use your off hand thumb to put pressure on the underside of the hammer, or use a pencil if need be, so that it snaps harder, and dry fire it. Put about 10 pounds pressure on it. Do this about 10 times, then check it normal a couple times and repeat if desired.

[DougGuy]

I have heard every suggestion possible, EXCEPT the one that works. You send the hammer and I remove some of the pad ala David Bradshaw and send it back. Most if not all of the creep is gone and you still have a safe crisp break. Most will include the hammer with cylinder work as this is an option I offer. I do recommend the Wolff 30oz. trigger return spring I have used a ton of them and with a standard mainspring they are about perfect.

[dubber123]

I have heard every suggestion possible, EXCEPT the one that works. You send the hammer and I remove some of the pad ala David Bradshaw and send it back. Most if not all of the creep is gone and you still have a safe crisp break. Most will include the hammer with cylinder work as this is an option I offer. I do recommend the Wolff 30oz. trigger return spring I have used a ton of them and with a standard mainspring they are about perfect.

Actually, it appears nearly everyone said the hammer notch needs reducing.

[wildcatter]

This is what he will be doing when you send your hammer to him, reducing the distance the trigger sear rides to release the hammer. You can get used to it but it will keep you from getting the best accuracy from your revolver. I agree also the 30 oz spring is the one I would and do go with.

[newton]

I got out and sighted my scope in on my bisley hunter yesterday afternoon. Man, talk about the trigger creep being even worse when you are trying to focus in on a shot and squeeze one off. It's crazy how you do not realize just how much of an issue there is when just dry firing. Something about trying to be precise makes the problem accentuate.

Doug, how much does just the hammer work you offer cost a guy? Showing my ignorance here, is it ok to do this kind of work without having the trigger also to check the process as you go along? I've never worked on one, or had one worked on, so I am I right to assume that there is some sort of jig that will prevent over doing the hammer?

[DougGuy]

I got out and sighted my scope in on my bisley hunter yesterday afternoon. Man, talk about the trigger creep being even worse when you are trying to focus in on a shot and squeeze one off. It's crazy how you do not realize just how much of an issue there is when just dry firing. Something about trying to be precise makes the problem accentuate.

Doug, how much does just the hammer work you offer cost a guy? Showing my ignorance here, is it ok to do this kind of work without having the trigger also to check the process as you go along? I've never worked on one, or had one worked on, so I am I right to assume that there is some sort of jig that will prevent over doing the hammer?

I use a feeler gauge and file until it feels smooth when running my finger over the gauge and the hammer pad. Send a PM for details.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

when I next have the available money, I am planning on sending my cylinder to you anyways, so if you could pm me a quote I would appreciate it!, my only question is, once you remove the metal, will those parts wear out any sooner? it just seems that once you reduce the surface, and it starts to wear, there would be less metal to " wear through" before having problems..... I am probably worrying too much, I usually do, I know that the components are very hard, and even if they ever wore out it would be a cheap replacement part/parts.... thanks dougguy~!

[wildcatter]

I do my own triggers and they are 2.5 to 2.8 pound with all creep removed, and fired 1000's of rounds and have not changed. Some have over 5000 rounds on them. If properly done it will actually wear less because it will be a better polished finish on the hammer than it comes from the factory. This means less friction, and that means less wear. You will be soooo much happier with your purchase,, feeling is believing.

[newton]

I do my own triggers and they are 2.5 to 2.8 pound with all creep removed, and fired 1000's of rounds and have not changed. Some have over 5000 rounds on them. If properly done it will actually wear less because it will be a better polished finish on the hammer than it comes from the factory. This means less friction, and that means less wear. You will be soooo much happier with your purchase,, feeling is believing.

I spent most of the day yesterday searching the web for how this job is done on Rugers. Seems pretty straightforward, as long as you FULLY understand how the sear/hammer interface and how the action works. Once I got that down, then the way people described how to do it made perfect sense.

I fully believe that a trigger job will help, especially with a gun like the super blackhawk hunter. I could understand not worrying about a plinking/point and shoot type gun, but one that you will be aiming very carefully and squeezing off a round HAS to benifit from getting rid of the rough trigger creep.

I'm going to tear mine down starting tonight and take a look. I can see where it is intimidating to tackle. I've been there. But after seeing how the action works I am positive it is something I can tackle. The way I see it, if I am going to rebuild the transmission in my truck(hopefully soon) then I should be able to handle a trigger job. :)

How do you do it wildcatter? I know there are two different ways that people get rid of the creep.

[oldhenry]

Newton,
The best way to proceed is in stages. A little removal at a time, then reassemble & test.

I'd also suggest that the actual hook surface not be altered in any way: just reduce the depth of the hook (in stages).

Also: make sure your screw diver bits are hollow ground & fit the screw slots perfectly (my Bisleys also have some hex head socket screws).

Good luck
Henry

[Two Barrels]

I have done a couple of triggers on my personal 1911s. It was not terribly difficult, but the first one was a little intimidating. It went well and so did the others. Let us know how it goes. I have a Ruger too that could definitely benefit from some work.

[wildcatter]

Newton,
The best way to proceed is in stages. A little removal at a time, then reassemble & test.

I'd also suggest that the actual hook surface not be altered in any way: just reduce the depth of the hook (in stages).

Also: make sure your screw diver bits are hollow ground & fit the screw slots perfectly (my Bisleys also have some hex head socket screws).

Good luck
Henry

Solid advice, I use a dremel with a buffing pad and jewlers rouge to lightly polish the surface the sear rides on, but never touch it with a file or a stone. I stone the hamer to shrten the depth, like oldhenry said,, a little goes a long a way, for the first one, tiny steps are important. It is easy to take back apart and take a little more, but you can't tear it down and add once you go to far! Patience can't be stressed enough here, and one other thing, never weaken a hammer spring!

If you have any doubt's, a $60.00 action job from the likes of David Clements is pretty cheap compared to an unsafe job! Good Luck!