Trapdoor is .357 mag?

[tbx-4]

I've read where someone converted a Springfield Trapdoor to 38-55. Was wondering if anyone has tried .357 magnum.

I did some bolt thrust calculations and come up with 3948 psi for .357 mag and 5041-5644 psi for 45-70 Gov. (Range is based on 25-28k psi for 45-70 because I find both these listed for max pressure.) That puts .357 at least 1093 psi inside the 45-70 Gov. bolt thrust. So it's doable as far as bolt thrust.

Just wondering if anyone has tried it? I have a barreled receiver I got from a member here almost two years ago that had two divots ground at the breech of the barrel yet the receiver is undamaged. The barrel could be repaired but I thought "what if"? Oh... and Numrich has Star rolling block barrels in .357 for $40! ...Hmmm...

Here's what the barreled receiver looks like.
https://i.imgur.com/09PZruQ.jpg

And unscrewed.
https://i.imgur.com/6EVaAzK.jpg

Good receiver.
https://i.imgur.com/fuNAHut.jpg

[Moleman-]

Sounds like a sweet idea! Would the extractor have a little sideways leg on it to reach the smaller rim?

[tbx-4]

Yes. One would have to be made like an original but with L shape to reach under the rim of the small case. It wouldn’t have to be much of an extension. One could buy a drill rifle extractor and do a little TIG welding on it, they’re inexpensive. I happen to have a friend with a TIG welder. Or, one could just hack something from a piece of steel.

[Char-Gar]

I would not do it. The Trapdoor lockup is a very weak sister.

[Moleman-]

The bolt thrust is about 1/5th less with a 357Mag than with trapdoor 45-70 loads so it will be easier on it than shooting it with a 45-70 barrel. About the only thing I'd be concerned about would be the firing pin dia/clearance/protrusion.

[oldred]

I've read where someone converted a Springfield Trapdoor to 38-55. Was wondering if anyone has tried .357 magnum.


Numrich has Star rolling block barrels in .357 for $40! ...Hmmm...



Sounds like a great idea -except for your choice of a barrel! Numrich has a reputation for selling some really poor quality barrels, some decent ones sometimes also but it's a ****-shoot. For just a very few dollars more you can get a really GOOD quality barrel blank from Green Mountain and make a real shooter out of that thing.

http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/bx357-25-38-cal-1-06-od-4140cm-1-20-turned-bbl-blank/

I have used GM barrels on several projects and I couldn't be happier with them, top notch all the way. My little "Baby" HighWall scaled down 1885 used a $39 Gun Smith Special raw blank in 22 Mag and it's a real tack driver, those Gun Smith Special deals they have are some of the best deals anywhere!

[uscra112]

AMEN! Numich buys reject lots to sell, I am totally convinced. Been there, burned the T-shirt out of sheer embarrassment.

[firebyprolong]

I have one if those Baby rolling block barrels from numeric. They are basically a contoured blank with a 1/4 inch cone breach unchambered. Outside is rough turned but the bore is great, minimal tool marks and smooth. If you need dimensions let me know I'll take some. The thing about numeric is to be willing to call and talk at someone till you get a return label to ship JUNK back occasionally. I've only had to do it 3 or 4 times. The last being a new 357 that had one whole side of the bore rusted out while full of cosmoline. I like the green rivers gunsmith blanks too, only problem is they don't make them in 358 at a price I can afford for my dink-around projects.

[tbx-4]

fireby,
I ordrerd one and have it in my hot little hands now. It’s just as you say, a little rough on the outside but very good bore. Nothing a few turns on a lathe and a little emery cloth can’t fix as far as the out side goes.

I have measurements of the TD barrel shank and the damaged barrel with another good barrel to compare as well. Thanks for the offer.

Just need to take it over to a friends place to turn it down and cut some square 10 tpi threads.

Here’s the TD barrel and the .357
https://i.imgur.com/6uP5pRD.jpg

[Deadeye Bly]

If that original barrel has a good bore it can be salvaged. I've done several over the years by cutting off the torched part, sleeving part of the chamber with an extension to bring it back to the original length then rechambering. The relief for the hinge and extractor cut have to be made. My best shooting trapdoor was done that way and it's a winner.

[Jedman]

A 357 trapdoor sounds really cool. :goodpost:

[webfoot10]

Hi tbx-4: I think you got that barrel from me awhile back. If I remember right it had a nice
bore, but a screwed up chamber from someone trying to make a lamp. You could drill it out
and put a stub chamber in it. Or maybe cut the chamber off and recut the threads and rechamber
it back to 45/70. Then make a 357 barrel and make a switch barrel rifle. A lot of possible combinations
to try. I'm not a machinist or I would have played with it. but it was beyond my capabilities so I
sold it. Keep us posted on this project as I like to see these old guns put back in shape.
webfoot10

[tbx-4]

webfoot,
Yes sir, I got this from you! Finally getting around to doing something with it.
I like the idea of a switch barrel but how would you do that? Unscrew the barrel every time you changed calibers?

But then fixing the old barrel is just the seed for another TD build!

[tbx-4]

Deadeye,
The damaged barrel has a bore that looks unused. No kidding... but it’s been cut down to 27.5”! Would make a nice carbine barrel though.

[tbx-4]

Deadeye,
Sent you a PM.

[Deadeye Bly]

PM answered.

[Ecramer]

About 25 years ago I saw a beautiful Trapdoor cav carbine that had been converted to .357 on the shelves of a now-defunct gun store in Kansas City (CR Specialties, if any of you remember it). It looked like it worked, but I never saw it fired.

[tbx-4]

Well, I'm pursuing the .357 Trapdoor project but I forgot about this thread so I'll up dated it.

After getting the Numrich barrel I needed a a little tool to make this happen... a lathe. So I started looking on craigslist but didn't see anything I liked. Called some machinist buddies and one thing led to another. I ended up with an old Atlas/Craftsman 12" lathe for $300. I cleaned it up and fixed a few things then started making chips.

Digging through the box of old HSS tooling it came with I found one that looks like it was used for cutting square threads. Practiced cutting square threads on some scrap stock till I broke the tip. Had to re-grind the tool and it came out ok.
Using another tool that I sharpened, turned down the .357 barrel shank to match the Trapdoor. Then started cutting the threads. The lathe is over 75 years old yet it still does a decent job.

The lathe. I added the chip pan.
https://i.imgur.com/zhUOHD9.jpg

Setting up change gears for 10 TPI.
https://i.imgur.com/MCUbQri.jpg

Threads finished, parting barrel stub.
https://i.imgur.com/zlXdc1X.jpg

Taking the edge off the breach end with file and emery cloth.
https://i.imgur.com/IXqupLQ.jpg

Not too bad.
https://i.imgur.com/5ZV2VKA.jpg

[tbx-4]

After filing the relief for the hinge I marked location for extractor.
https://i.imgur.com/hq96SN8.jpg

Trial fit to receiver.
https://i.imgur.com/3aY1WVU.jpg

Found that the extractor is offset to the outside, if I made one a mirror image that is offset to the inside it will engage the .357 rim.
I just need to whittle a piece of 1/4" plate down to a new extractor. Using a little bench grinder and files I did just that.
https://i.imgur.com/slbTEwi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/G6sYYqa.jpg

And done. Trying to hold that little piece and file on it is hard on the 'ol fingers!
https://i.imgur.com/n38V9VZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ldyptwc.jpg

Here you can see the offset.
https://i.imgur.com/id6Rntx.jpg

[tbx-4]

Ordered a .357 reamer and cut the chamber.
https://i.imgur.com/Sts09Kz.jpg

Before I cut the relief for the extractor, but with the chamber cut, I put it all together and went out back and shot some .38 sp through it. Sound like a quite .22 with about same recoil. Tried some .357 mag and now it sounded and felt like a rifle. The .38 will be great for plinking and those who are "recoil sensitive". The rifle is coming out on the light side at 6.5 lbs. I like that.
Stay tuned there's more to come..
https://i.imgur.com/6HRzsUY.jpg

[tbx-4]

Cut the relief for the extractor and went out back and tried it out. Seems the extractor spring is too stiff to work with the narrow rim of the .357. Tried a softer spring but it worked just as good with out a spring.

My apologies for the blurry photos.
https://i.imgur.com/WkkWUcI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CHNAMBp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6CBiDdY.jpg

[tbx-4]

If the extractor was a little longer it might work with the spring but then I'd have to chase the shell as it flies out. With no spring I can just tip up the barrel and let it fall out or flick the rim with my finger and it's in my hand.

May experiment with a different extractor in the future but for now it works and I need to solder on a front sight and make a rear tang mounted sight.

And so far I've shot 20 rounds of .38 sp and 15 rounds of .357 mag with no signs of any problems.

[Bazoo]

Thats awesome man. Thank you for sharing.

[Wolfer]

Well done and a good write up.

[tim338]

Good job... very cool.

[Nueces]

Very nice work and I appreciate your showing your lathe setups. I expect we both agree with Hamilton Bowen that a lathe and drill press are essential elements of a man's household.

Your last photo shows the imprint of the huge OEM firing pin, which will tend to limit your pressures before flow back occurs. Also, just to be complete, those early black powder firearm metals are soft by modern standards, so you'll want to watch for breech face damage from primer setback.

Someone with your talent and git-after-it might choose to bush the pin and reduce it's diameter and protrusion. If you do that, I hope you'll show your setups here.

[tbx-4]

Guys, thanks for the kind comments!

Nueces,
I’d like to say that a lathe is essential but I never owned one till now. And hadn’t used one since vo-tech school in 1974. Bought my first drill press 7-8 years ago. What metal working I’ve done has been by hand.

About the firing pin, the primers on the .357 cases show a slight deformation but no set back is observable. Will keep an eye on it though. Thanks for the caution.
No deformation at all on the .38 sp.

I might find another firing pin and turn down the very tip to a more appropriate size.
I was also thinking the hammer spring may be too heavy too.

[Nueces]

Nueces,
I’d like to say that a lathe is essential but I never owned one till now. And hadn’t used one since vo-tech school in 1974. Bought my first drill press 7-8 years ago. What metal working I’ve done has been by hand.


I have a similar history. Graduated from the USAF machinist's course in 1969, but did not own a lathe for some years afterward. I love the little bugger and the WWII Walker Turner drill press, but hand tools are still king. I would love to take a life sabbatical for a couple of years and be an apprentice at Holland & Holland, learning the art of the file, saw and chisel.

[robg]

Great idea great skill.

[Moleman-]

Good job on the barrel, extractor and lathe! It won't be too long till you'll be wanting a mill and another lathe, and..... Your lathe is a little older than my oldest one a 1952 Sheldon lathe, but I have a 1880's E.E. Garvin horizontal mill that was repowered from line shaft to a scrap electric pump motor and a transmission off of a 1920's lathe at some point. Even the power feed on it still works.

[Wolfer]

My lathe is an 1894 Porter Machine works. I don't have the spindle that went in the ceiling but everything else is there. A frame above holds an electric motor and a model A transmission. The Babbitt bearings need to be recast but as long as I don't crowd it too hard it does pretty good work.
It would really be helpful if I was a machinist but I am not!
It's a lot of fun though.

[Dutchman]

I like the way you just jumped into this and did it. I've bookmarked this thread.

Dutch

[tbx-4]

Thanks Dutch,
Sometimes things just fall together like there were ment to.

You all are seeing this in a time compressed manner but there’s obviously more details and planning than I’m showing. Some thought went into how to perform certain operations but ended up being figured out on the fly. Like I said, it just seemed to fall together.

But I do appreciate everyone’s kind comments.

Moleman,
I’m looking for a milling machine now.

Eventually I’d like to build a complete action, even for .22 lr.

At the moment I’m waiting for parts to arrive so I can continue with this project. Then there’s every day life to deal with, gotta keep priorities straight. Gotta keep momma happy too. :smile:

[oldred]

Trying to hold that little piece and file on it is hard on the 'ol fingers!


What I do when filing small parts, which I do quite often, is to hold them with a pair of long nose Vise-Grips and sometimes I even then hold the Vise-Grips in a small vise on my work bench for an even more sold hold. Sure makes it easier on the fingers and the part finishes quicker with a more "crisp" look to it because of sharper corners, etc.


I sure would like to find some detailed drawings of a Trapdoor, anyone know of any? I have searched on the 'net but so far found nothing with much detail to it, dimensions would not be necessary but a clear and detailed parts schematic of the working parts would be nice.

[Larry Gibson]

tbx-4

You might try shortening the extractor spring or using a weaker one so it just pops the case back into the action. I've done that on my target TD so I don't have to chase/pu cases during a match but can just pick them out of the open action.

[Speedo66]

Coming together very nice! That's a perfect round for that gun. I had an original Trapdoor Carbine that beat the heck out of me, I wasn't reloading for it, so just factory rounds. No joy shooting it, couldn't even get through a full box, so out the door it went.

[tbx-4]

oldred,
I need to get some needle nose vice grips. That would sure help.
For some of the filing I have an old Palmgren angle vice but for the fine work it was all by hand.

Larry,
I tried a lighter spring but it didn’t work any better than no spring. I’ll look at trying another spring once I get sights on it and it’s dialed in. It’s good enough for now though.

Speedo,
I made a cavalry carbine out of a sporterized Trapdoor. Looks just like one with all the right dimensions and it don’t beat me up at all. In fact it’s enjoyable to shoot. I use a 405 gr cast boolits over 22 gr of IMR4198... I’m leary about shooting factory ammo in a Trapdoor, even if it does say 45-70 Gov.

[Texas by God]

You did an awesome job on that gun. Since Star made the barrel, I wouldn't worry about quality. Threads like this inspire me. Thanks for sharing and a big ten four on keeping Momma happy.

[Larry Gibson]

oldred,

Larry,
I tried a lighter spring but it didn’t work any better than no spring. I’ll look at trying another spring once I get sights on it and it’s dialed in. It’s good enough for now though.

Probably because the 357 is a straight taper case and the 45-70 is tapered......that would make the 45-70 pop out and eject easier. Texas by God is right....awesome rifle, well done
:awesome:

I love shooting my TDs, was out last week shooting my H&R Officer's Model which I put a Beech front sight and original M1879 rear sight on. I was shooting out to 1000 yards with the M1879 sight.....what a hoot.....hostiles to the front!

[woodbutcher]

[smilie=s: Very nice Sir.Thanks for posting.Please update as you are able.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[tbx-4]

Aww shucks, you guys are too nice with all the comments! :oops: :)

Here's a little more progress.

I was going to make a tang mounted sight but why reinvent the wheel? Not one of the older folding ladder sights but just a small peep sight. I've used the Skinner sight on my CZ 527 and like it a lot. It's pretty small and streamlined, the size is perfect for the Trapdoor except it needs a little riser.

Skinner sight and a chunk of 1/4" plate for riser. I used my cheap Chinese drill press with my cheap Chinese x-y vice with my cheap Chinese end mill bits to square it up.
https://i.imgur.com/kc2leQC.jpg

Using my cheap Chinese belt sander and cheap Chinese moto-tool and Portuguese made files it turned out ok.
https://i.imgur.com/Jdog8aX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/I1GNeqx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zf3MOKe.jpg

It actually fits flusher than it appears.
Not sure if I'm going to use silver solder or epoxy to get it to stay put.

[woodbutcher]

:grin: If you REALLY want it to stay in place,use some Brownells AcraGlas(R).
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[Larry Gibson]

I wouldn't solder or glue it in place.....not enough recoil to loosen the front screw if Loc-Tite is used. If you do I'd make sure the rear screw is free to move so the windage feature isn't lost.

[tbx-4]

woodbutcher,
I was thinking JB Weld.

Larry,
I was referring to the riser, how to attach it to the tang. Sorry for not being clear. Yes, the sight will be screwed down.

Here's what I got done today

The muzzle of the barrel had a step for setting up in a lathe. I cut that off and crowned the barrel. A 1/4-20 brass stove bolt covered in valve grinding compound spun in a cordless drill motor makes a nice crown.
https://i.imgur.com/gbDh1Z4.jpg

For the sake of expediency I ended up cold bluing the barrel. Figured while I was at it I might as well re-blue the receiver, breach block and lock.
https://i.imgur.com/HAkxvwj.jpg

Putting all together it's looking pretty good.
https://i.imgur.com/cV44shw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6p1zStX.jpg

Next will be setting up the front and rear sights.

[ulav8r]

Looking much better than "pretty good".

[Jedman]

That is really cool ! perfect choice of rebarreling the trapdoor. Like your sight also.

Jedman

[Texas by God]

It looks amazing. Well done sir!

[KCSO]

How are you getting around the pressure problems? A trapdoor won't hold a 22 hornet for long they are rated for 18000 PSI Max and I don't use any hot 32-20 loads.

[vzerone]

How are you getting around the pressure problems? A trapdoor won't hold a 22 hornet for long they are rated for 18000 PSI Max and I don't use any hot 32-20 loads.

KSCO, if I'm correct a modified Springfield Trapdoor was one of the first rifles the 30-40 Krag was tested in. I'd think if that was okay then the cartridges mentioned would be alright. I know the original poster said he figured up breach face thrust for both the 45-70 and 357 Mag if that give you an idea of maybe how he came to the conclusion.

[Moleman-]

If this was done in 9mm no one would question it. 9mm has slightly more bolt thrust than 357Mag and run at a similar pressure. A 22 hornet at 43Kpsi has around 3038 ftlbs of bolt thrust which is less than 45-70, 9mm or 357Mag. I would reduce the size of the firing pin tip and put a bushing in the breach face.

[vzerone]

If this was done in 9mm no one would question it. 9mm has slightly more bolt thrust than 357Mag and run at a similar pressure. A 22 hornet at 43Kpsi has around 3038 ftlbs of bolt thrust which is less than 45-70, 9mm or 357Mag. I would reduce the size of the firing pin tip and put a bushing in the breach face.

Moleman, isn't the cartridge thrust figured by the internal web floor area inside the case, not that cartridge head. Thus I understood it the smaller that area the less the thrust.

Formula

F → b o l t = P m a x ⋅ A i n t e r n a l . {\displaystyle {\vec {F}}_{bolt}=P_{max}\cdot A_{internal}.} {\vec {F}}_{{bolt}}=P_{{max}}\cdot A_{{internal}}. [1]

where:

Fbolt = the amount of bolt thrust
Pmax = the maximum (peak) chamber pressure of the firearms cartridge
Ainternal = the inside area (of the cartridge case head) that the propellant deflagration gas pressure acts against

[Moleman-]

Radius squared times 3.14 times the PSI. Yes, the actual measurement is the widest ID of the case head, but it's easier to go by the base diameter (not the rim) and gives you a slight bit of a safety factor as you are erring on the high side. For the 357 I used .19 x .19 x 3.14 x 35,000= 3967.39 ftlbs. 9mm, .1955 x .1955 x 3.14 x 35,000= 4,200.4 ftlbs (wiki has it at 4012 ftlbs). 22 hornet (above I used .150"), .149 x .149 x 3.14 x 43,000= 2997.6 ftlbs or at 25Kpsi= 1742 ftlbs.

It is important to look at both bolt thrust and chamber pressure when considering a rebarrel.

[tbx-4]

How are you getting around the pressure problems? A trapdoor won't hold a 22 hornet for long they are rated for 18000 PSI Max and I don't use any hot 32-20 loads.

My Lyman reloading manual has the Trapdoor loads rated at 18000 psi too but SAMMI rates 45-70 Gov at 28000 psi. I’ve also seen 25000 psi quoted. Now modern 45-70 Gov. is supposed to be equivalent to the original 45-70-405 load for the Trapdoor... not to mention the long range Trapdoors used 45-80-500 compressed loads with the same receiver and barrel as the standard infantry Trapdoor. (Correction: same steel but tighter twist on the rifling)

But to answer your question “How are you getting around your pressure problems?” Well, so far there’s no indication of any problem.

Please read post #1.

BTW, I’ve shot 70 rounds through the Trapdoor so far with 30 being .357 magnum. Federal 158 grn soft points. Still dialing the sights in. They shoot about 4” higher and to the right compared to .38 sp... But since I don’t own a .357 revolver I’ll be shooting .38 sp mainly and sight in for them. Which is like shooting a .22 rifle, incredibly light recoil and report. Heck, even .38 sp+P wouldn’t be an issue but nice to know that I can shoot .357 mag if I have to.

[tbx-4]

vzeron,
Yes, there were Trapdoors made for 30-40 Krag. They experimented with different barrels but the receivers were not noted for being any different than 45-70. Now, I could be wrong so if anyone knows any better please chime in.
http://www.trapdoorcollector.com/cal30.html

[fivefang]

Tbx 4, as they would say in Chinese DING HOW! ( Very Good) Fivefang

[vzerone]

vzeron,
Yes, there were Trapdoors made for 30-40 Krag. They experimented with different barrels but the receivers were not noted for being any different than 45-70. Now, I could be wrong so if anyone knows any better please chime in.
http://www.trapdoorcollector.com/cal30.html

Yes...thanks for putting up the link.

VZ

[pworley1]

Great job on the conversion. I really enjoyed the read.

[Bill*B]

Bravo! I am in awe. I predict that you will really enjoy this little rife - YOUR rifle!

[Larry Gibson]

tbx-4

"My Lyman reloading manual has the Trapdoor loads rated at 18000 psi too but SAMMI rates 45-70 Gov at 28000 psi."

I've measured the psi of several Lyman loads (they are based on the C.U.P. or L.U.P. method of measurement). They are close (25,400 to 27,600) to the SAAMI MAP using the Transducer method of 28,000 psi.

With the 357 cartridge in your TD I wouldn't worry about the minutia........ I've seen one rebarreled to 44 Magnum and a couple in 45 Colt and they had no problems. TD actions Mostly let go at the front with the soft iron/steel barrel expanding. You've enough quality steel barrel around the chamber that normal 357 loads won't expand it. Consider how thin a revolver cylinder is over the chamber compared to your barrel. As to bolt thrust......not enough to be a concern.

My most used loads in my 45-70 TDs are a 210 gr HB at 950 fps and a 275 gr at 1050 fps. More fun than a guy should be allowed....... your TD should give you lots of pleasure......you do have multi cavity moulds and a progressive press? If not you're gonna need 'em as it's always amazed me how many rounds a fun single shot like yours can devour......:drinks:

[tbx-4]

Thanks Larry for the clarification on the pressure.
I have a bunch of 158gr cast already to go but only a single stage press... well two single stage presses. I'm making use of what I have on hand. It's all fun.

Further progress.
Had to remove the front sight, it was canted to the left making it shoot to the right. Reinstalled it, now I can hit a 6" steel plate at 60 yards. Didn't have the time to get it dialed in better but its close. I shot Remington .38sp 130gr jacketed flat nose, Magtech .38sp 158gr hard cast and Federal .357 mag 158gr soft point. They all hit the plate. The .357 is high, the Rem 130gr is low and the Magtech 158gr is almost dead center. Made no adjustments, not bad for bore sighting.

I got frustrated at first trying to bore sight with one of those cartridge type lasers. It was all over the place depending how it was rotated in the chamber. This is what caused the canted front sight.
I ended up using a small inspection mirror. With the breach open, insert the inspection mirror and look down the bore at a white board with a 1" black dot 25 yards away. Now try to hold the mirror steady while moving rifle in padded vice till the black dot is centered in bore. Then set front sight on barrel and carefully look through rear sight (already affixed) and align front sight, mark location. I used JB weld epoxy to hold front sight on. Will see how long it lasts. After 25 rounds today it's still holding.

Setting up sights.
https://i.imgur.com/wmVO1Hn.jpg

Rear sight dwarfed by hammer.
https://i.imgur.com/E1XA26L.jpg

Front sight filed to shape and blued.
https://i.imgur.com/miK5SvT.jpg

Now where's that rear sight?
https://i.imgur.com/t5Eazj7.jpg

[oldred]

I never tire of seeing Trapdoors, especially the carbines! I don't own one and never have but I have always loved the classic lines of the Trapdoor and fully intend to own one of my own someday -soon I hope. Good job and great looking gun, also the 357 seems like a great choice and all things considered that is definitely going to a fun gun, thanks for sharing this with us.

[Silvercreek Farmer]

Sweet conversion! I look forward to seeing some paper!

[Cmasailor]

stunning. did you bed the barrel and make a bushing for the band? aesthetics really, but curious nontheless

[popper]

If you use the muzzle type laser sighter, just rotate it to see the pattern (circle) and find the middle.

[Cmasailor]

Well I drooled on the keyboard enough and finally jumped on the wagon, probably not going to be as pretty as yours, but I'll give it a shot. I bought one of those $40 barrels for a receiver I have lying around. gonna have to barter with the neighbor to let me use his lathe for a few afternoons. I think I'll go with the shorter 38spl chamber though, it's plenty for what plinking/varminting I might do.

[tbx-4]

stunning. did you bed the barrel and make a bushing for the band? aesthetics really, but curious nontheless

An old peace of gun stock was shaped to cradle the barrel and glued in the barrel channel of the carbine stock. It’s only a couple inches long and positioned where the barrel band goes.

The barrel band has a piece of black vinyl trim glued inside the upper portion. There is a little bit of compression to the vinyl and it makes a very snug fit.

When I get time I’ll post some photos of the stock inlay and barrel band bushing.

Actually, .38 Sp is real fun to shoot. It’s like shooting a .22 only bigger. This would make a great youth or training rifle too. It’s not too heavy at 6.5 lbs. With almost no recoil, quite report whats not to like?
It’s more fun than .357, which, out of a carbine is quite loud like a regular rifle and has some kick.

[tbx-4]

Ok, finally got to do some half serious shooting with the .357 Trapdoor.

I was at 50 yards shooting from my little folding table with ammo box and towel for rest.
https://i.imgur.com/fkaetTx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DYXOysa.jpg

Shot the upper target first and was pleasantly surprised. Now the lower target was ok but for the two fliers. The high one was me but the low one was the ammo. It sounded different than the other shots, a little quieter and kind of a loud "pfft". Ammo was Remington 130 gr. FMJ in the white box. It's different then the 130 gr. FMJ in the green and white box. The white box ammo is canullard and crimped but the green and white box isn't.