Question on Lee REAL 50 Cal Casting bullits

[Rsixta]

Hey guys. pretty green at handloading, and casting, and pretty much everything to do with bullet and cartridge loading. along with starting with a difficult cartridge, I also bought a CVA Wolf muzzleloader to see if I was interested in black powder shooting, and so far I enjoy it. after firing my first shots of cheap shot sabots, I decided to try making my own projectiles for my CVA wolf. I did my research on the Lee real and a lot of people have mixed feelings about the bullet, but most positive reviews came from people who had rifle with fast twist rates (the wofl has 1:28) and 50 caliber rifles so I figured itd be worth buying. as I'm casting them, I am having the common issue of the bullets coming in undersize (last rib is .509-.508). I read that heating the pot would help, so I did which brought my diameter put it up to .514-.515. I'm using a Lee bottom pour pot and turnig he heat up the "6" setting which I'm not sue how hot that it but the top of my lead was red so I figured it was hot enough, which may also be a mistake. anyone had any luck getting the REAL bullet to advertised diameter? the bullets ive shot that were .509-.514 shot OK but felt like it lost oomph compared to the cheap sabot I'm used to shooting, but that may be normal. I have no clue. I'm using 80 grains of American pioneer FF.

[Rcmaveric]

Been eye balling but haven't gotten it yet for my knight but here, I have this thread book marked for when I do: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?57692-Lee-R-E-A-L-bullet-mould

REAL bullets from my understand are for moderate twist rates like 1 in 48. They can be shot in faster 1 in 28 but you have tune for accuracy with out over powering and skipping the lands. Dimensions.... whats you alloy? Try adding some tin, run it hot, or both. I would be fine with those dimensions in my riffle. Try starting with a lower charge also. You don't need a lot oomph or recoil. you just need a heavy bullet to hit what you are aiming at 100 yrds away. Chrono the load once its accurate to make sure its leathal enough for you.

[Edward]

Mine is 502-514 and if you want them to shoot (Try real black powder 2F /3F) and put a card behind , it over your powder and pure lead is what you want and run the pot hot ! Works for me /Ed

[Rsixta]

I dont have any set target where im shooting, just objects, i may go to a range and try it on actual targets. Thats why i asked if i was running it hot enough to get it to fill properly. I hoped someone who had a lee pot could tell me approximately how hot the 6 setting on it was. I dont have any good way to measure the tempature but the lead is discoloring when at that setting so i figured it was pretty **** hot enough for it but i have no clue. I may try a powder in the future but ill use up what i have. Cant beat 10 dollars for a pound of black powder subsitute.

[nagantguy]

Mine is 502-514 and if you want them to shoot (Try real black powder 2F /3F) and put a card behind , it over your powder and pure lead is what you want and run the pot hot ! Works for me /Ed
This is very sound advice that I can't improve on

[Edward]

I dont have any set target where im shooting, just objects, i may go to a range and try it on actual targets. Thats why i asked if i was running it hot enough to get it to fill properly. I hoped someone who had a lee pot could tell me approximately how hot the 6 setting on it was. I dont have any good way to measure the tempature but the lead is discoloring when at that setting so i figured it was pretty **** hot enough for it but i have no clue. I may try a powder in the future but ill use up what i have. Cant beat 10 dollars for a pound of black powder subsitute.

Yer right only if it works ,but if it isn"t $10.00 dollars is wasting time/powder and lead when its a given BP works every time /just sayin /Ed

[centershot]

Mine is 502-514 and if you want them to shoot (Try real black powder 2F /3F) and put a card behind , it over your powder and pure lead is what you want and run the pot hot ! Works for me /Ed

Edward is spot-on! As far as powder, American Pioneer is a very poor substitute for real black powder, IMHO. I've used it, I found it to shoot accurately and cleanly. BUT, once you break the seal on that can it's life is limited. If you're going to hunt with it buy a new can immediately before hunting season. Use the new powder to hunt with, Or, just use real black powder and don't worry about it!

[Chill Wills]

I hoped someone who had a lee pot could tell me approximately how hot the 6 setting on it was.

The numbers on the LEE lead pots are not calibrated to specific temperatures. If they intended them to be, they failed. I have a lot of their lead pots and they are all different, ...all over the map in fact! But, I think LEE only meant the numbers to be reference for setting it up. Use a lead thermometer to be sure if you feel the need to, or trial and error will work, and use a marker on the number dial to indicate what works for what.

[725]

I shoot REAL's in a couple guns. They are good boolits. Some prefer bare bottom against the powder and some like a lubed felt wad under the boolit. Pretty much, you should just experiment around some. Let us know which works best for you.

[Jniedbalski]

I have had good luck with the real's also.most of the modern inlines use a 1/32 or 1/28 twist . I found out that the most accurate load in my riffles was between 60, and 85 grains of real black but pyrodex worked good also. When I went up in powder groups got bigger. Never used a wad under the real but need to just to see if it helps. The number on the dial is just a reference point. Each pot will be a little different. I do know when casting the real that my bands where not as sharp at a lower temp. I cranked up the heat and they started to look really good nice and sharp

[Wolfer]

While my CVA wolf shot powerbelts very well I never did find a suitable cast load for it. The only molds I had were the lee real and mini. My best luck was with the mini and 70 gr of pyrodex. I'm a black fan and shoot it almost exclusively but that gun didn't do well with it. Guess that's why it went away.

I never tried paper patching that gun but it works well in my H&R 50 I have now.

[GoexBlackhorn]

Unless you live near a desert, get rid of your American pioneer FF. It draws moisture easily, probably even if you were to leave the jug on your bathroom sink when flushing your toilet.:mad:

[Maven]

Rsixta, Several suggestions for you: As Chill Wills mentioned, you need a good casting thermometer. (Tel Tru is the brand I use.) Second, my REAL's were undersized as well, but you can increase their diameter by paper patching or by "beagling" the mold. (Google it!) I tried the former, which improved accuracy significantly in my 1:28" twist bbl., but a T/C Maxi-Ball, which I also cast (pure lead in both instances) was much more accurate than the REAL. Also, a felt or card stock wad under the projectile may help you squeeze a bit more accuracy out of your bbl.

[triggerhappy243]

In regards to the real..... The bands must be sharp and defined if it is correctly cast. If they are rounded off, then the dia. Is undersized. A little tin will aid in good fill out without adding hardness. And i too, have heard an over powder wad aids in improved accuracy.