HP release

[Jeffjmr]

I’m embarassed to ask, as a search for an answer came up with nothing which means I am the only one having this problem.

I cannot get my Lee HP molds to release the boolit from the HP pin. I tried polishing it (not too much to change diameter and have alloy leak past), smoking, commercial mold release, banging it, and grabbing it with gloved hand. The gloved hand worked but had to twist and manipulate so much that the hollow is crooked. Same story on two different molds, .45 230 and .358 158.

Surely there is a trick I have failed to read about. I feel a ‘Doh! coming on, but I give up. Let me have it.

Jeff

[Time Killer]

I have a mold that is hollow base and is a challenge to cast with also. Try taking a pencil and rubbing the lead an the pin.

[Bzcraig]

The key is heat. There is a huge learning curve using molds with pin. The pins because of their low mass dissipate heat much faster than the mold blocks. When I first tried using a HP mold I kept a propane torch close by to heat the pins. Did I mention a huge learning curve?

[stubshaft]

+1 - When I cast HP I cast as fast as possible to keep the pin hot. Cull boolits later!

[MyFlatline]

Yep, what they said, hot and fast. If you have any fat pine, try smoking the pins with that. It's better than anything I have found yet..Best of Luck.

[Lloyd Smale]

I sometime even take a propane torch and heat the hp pin up.

[brass410]

fat pine???? not familiar with that type is there a more formal name for this type of conifer

[s mac]

I just dip the pin in the alloy in the lead pot when it needs a bit of heat, it's right there at hand.

[rintinglen]

I sometime even take a propane torch and heat the hp pin up.

+1 the key is heat which means cast fast, preheat the mold to hotter than normal temperatures raise the pot temperature 25-50 degrees and add a little extra tin to the melt. Your boolits should be frosty and you should dump them as fast as possible Ideally with 4 seconds or less between boolits. As soon as the sprue changes color, cut it and dump the boolit.

[Grmps]

Coat/cover the pin with #2 pencil lead (graphite)

[MyFlatline]

fat pine???? not familiar with that type is there a more formal name for this type of conifer

I could not figure out how to describe it so I did a google...

Fatwood, also known as "fat lighter," "lighter wood," "rich lighter," "pine knot," [1] "lighter knot," "heart pine" or "lighter'd" [sic], is derived from the heartwood of pine trees. The stump (and tap root) that is left in the ground after a tree has fallen or has been cut is the primary source of fatwood, as the resin-impregnated heartwood becomes hard and rot-resistant over time after the death of the main tree.

[William Yanda]

Mold release, or a graphite spray might help.

[country gent]

One thing that can affect release is if the pin isn't truly straight has a low spot in it or ring in it. Polish lines running around it can cause grip also polish lines should be parallel to the pin to aid release. A light polich with tooth paste flitz or simichrome by hand working parallel to the pin may help here.

The above issues arnt a sticking or heat issue but are a mechanical lock from the leads close fit to the pin.

[Gtrubicon]

I don’t have that problem with my map hollow point molds

[Gtrubicon]

Mp molds, darned auto type!

[Jeffjmr]

Thanks all. I have tried mold release spray. No help. I did polish the ring away, no help. I am curious how one would dip just the pin into the melt given it is sandwiched by the mold halves pretty closely even when fully open.

Gonna try the graphite and speed up the process if I can get one to release. Also will add some tin. Using mostly magnum shot as my alloy. Makes nice reasonably hard boolits.

Jeff

[s mac]

Dip the pin and then insert. Edit to add, maybe I misunderstand what style of pin you have. I am referring to a pin you pull out of the bottom All mine are that style.

[Beagle333]

Graphite (shade it good with a pencil) and then cast fast. Don't stop to look at them, don't stop to cull them, just cast like your arm was on fire and that'll keep the pin hot, since it isn't a removable pin. Faster casting is the key. Dump and go... just to the point before smearing the top of the blocks.

[Jeffjmr]

213147
Dip the pin and then insert. Edit to add, maybe I misunderstand what style of pin you have. I am referring to a pin you pull out of the bottom All mine are that style.

Lee HP molds don’t work like that.

No way to dip the pin assembly alone, it is attached to the handles between the mold halves.

[Moonie]

Preheating on a hotplate is how I work with all my hp molds, NOE and Mihec, I do not have a Lee HP but it works for my 1oz lee slug mold as well.

[country gent]

Set a propane torch where its comfortable and at the correct angle and warm the pin with it. A hot plate works well to warm everything and may get it where you need to be.
otherwise its cast hard and fast, dipping the corner of the mould into the molten lead may also transfer enough heat to the pin the problem is the part of the pin that does the work isn't going to be in contact with the blocks but in open air meaning heat has to transfer thru the pins mass itself.

As said above when casting cast don't sort or cull.,cast and at a brisk pace.

[Smoke4320]

Lighty polish pin with 600 grit sandpaper or valve grinding compound. If its a lee hollow base pin smoke with a lighter if a NOE or MP mold lightly lube with sprew lube or even better get a lube pen from goodsteel
As lothers have said run tou pot hotter and use a hotplate to get mold hot . cast quicker
All these tips together will help

[gwpercle]

Follow the advice given, polish pin, get hot, keep hot and cast fast as you can.
Another trick is , when the mould and pin are cool , give the pin and cavity a light coat with Liquid Wrench Dry Lubericant. I have a bottle of the liquid and apply a thin coat to pins and cavities, it will act as a mould release and does not contaminate. I coat my moulds with it before storing away.
Sprue plate top and bottom, top of block, cavities and pins. Next session...heat and cast...boolits seem to jump out....just try it one time.
Gary

[Smoke4320]

gwpercle Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant Which one are you using .. There are 3 formulations

[Smoke4320]

gwpercle Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant Which one are you using .. There are 3 formulations

Liquid Wrench RVL512/6PDQ RV Dry Lubricant
Liquid Wrench L512 Dry Lubricant with CERFLON
Stens part #752-922, Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant

[brass410]

soon as the snow go away, I will go away, to find a pine heartwood or stump and find fat pine and try it. Never heard of it before, learn something new everyday

[Gunslinger1911]

Sprue plate lube. Goodsteel has it in a "felt pen looking thing" lol

I can't for the life of me remember who makes / sells the lube, hope someone will chime in.

Smear on alum, steel, brass mould - hot lead doesn't stick.

Over time you will get a carbon surface coating that nothing will stick to.

[gwpercle]

gwpercle Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant Which one are you using .. There are 3 formulations

Holey Moley....I didn't know they made 3 dry lubes ! More than likely any one will do.
The stuff I've been using is the SDS #L512...label says "Dry Lubricant" and below that it says "resists dust and dirt ". I have a 4 oz. bottle for Q-Tip application and a spray can for large surfaces.
I use the Q-Tip application and the liquid most on moulds , easy to controll and the bottle will last for years.
For sprue plate lube synthetic two-stroke oil works great , apply with the Q-Tip.