Remington 700 Rebarrel ?'s

[boatbum101]

Have a 70's vintage BDL in 30-06 . Throat is getting about worn out & am considering another barrel .
If I can find a new factory takeoff barrel in 30-06 or any other caliber based on same case will this be better ie feeding problems etc ? I'm also thinking it'd allow me to keep same stock which I'll probably bed with pillars & Devcon . I've been told factory barrels shoot better with forend pressure Other than truing reciever face & lapping bolt lugs / recoil lug is it really necessary to go beyond that for a hunting rifle ? To have an action blueprinted adds considerably to project expense . Maybe I was lucky but in its original form rifle has been very accurate ( 1 MOA or better with select loads ) . I've seen in past threads that most here don't care for takeoffs & reccomend a new barrel . If I go that route best deal best deal I've found is on Wilson ( Cooper rifles ) barrels . This is a hunting rifle & for me costs are a consideration . If money were no object then yes I'd go a different route . Anyway tell me what you think or what you'd do if it was yours .

[lefty o]

wilson makes a very good barrel (before people jump, not the same as wilson combat).

[M-Tecs]

For a hunting rifle no need to replace until it starts grouping poorly. Unless you have over 4,000 rounds on it or it is shooting poorly I would not worry about it. Even if it's shooting poorly a really good cleaning with copper and carbon removing agent and a abrasive cleaner should help greatly.

[Hickory]

wilson makes a very good barrel (before people jump, not the same as wilson combat).

No first name?
No web address?
No email address?

I'll bet if you were to Google Wilson 30,000 would come up and
you'd spend hours looking for this mysterious Wilson.

[M-Tecs]

No first name?
No web address?
No email address?

I'll bet if you were to Google Wilson 30,000 would come up and
you'd spend hours looking for this mysterious Wilson.

Googled Wilson barrels first hit.
http://wilsonarms.com

[Texas by God]

For a hunting rifle no need to replace until it starts grouping poorly. Unless you have over 4,000 rounds on it or it is shooting poorly I would not worry about it. Even if it's shooting poorly a really good cleaning with copper and carbon removing agent and a abrasive cleaner should help greatly.

THIS- and seating the bullets out a bit more and you should be good to go. Try it first because it's free. BTDT......

[Safeshot]

Might consider keeping your rifle "as is" and purchasing another Rem. 700 in .30/06. Your present rifle would be a fine "back up rifle", "bad weather rifle", or "loaner rifle". A good cleaning "might" work wonders. Loading the bullet to a longer cartridge overall length (as previously mentioned) might help, a longer, heavier bullet also might help. Just an opinion.

[rockrat]

Sometimes you can pick up a new take-off like is on your gun for $75 or less. Its having it fitted to the action that gets $$. Plan on $150 or so minimum, unless you get lucky. sometimes a take-off will screw right on and headspace OK, but sights usually won't line up, its the luck of the draw so to speak.
You could always send it to JES for reboring and turn it into a 338-06 or a 35 whelen if you want. $250 IIRC

[lefty o]

No first name?
No web address?
No email address?

I'll bet if you were to Google Wilson 30,000 would come up and
you'd spend hours looking for this mysterious Wilson.

not my thread, sorry if you dont know who they are.

[country gent]

Since your rifle has already "proven" itself to be accurate the blue print job probably isn't necessary. A take of barrel will work nicely but with factory barrels it can be luck of the draw as to its accuracy. I believe Douglas, Shillen, and some others have the same contour to match the one on your Remington, or very close to it. One of these fitted and chambered might be a better option. Depending on how far you want to go, you could have the chamber throat and leade you want this way. Check Brownels they may have some short chambered barrels in the Remington contour also.

[boatbum101]

It's a 1973 vintage & has been shot a bunch . I've always seated bullets out to 3.400 OAL with 150 & 165's as that's where she shoots best . Gun still groups good as ever but barrel is fouling worse & worse . I clean with a regular solvent first & then 5 - 6 passes with Sweets to remove all the copper . As I stated first 15 rounds are as good as its ever shot , but after that it's a shotgun not a rifle . Yes I was speaking about Wilson Arms barrel as Cooper uses them on their high $$$ rifles . Rifle has been scoped for years , I took the factory sights off & put plug screws in their place . If I am able to get a brand new / very lightly used factory takeoff I'd jump on it . Have a local guy who builds all kinds of match / long range rifles & folks bring him brand new 700's still in the box for him to build on , so I'm hoping he can come up a suitable donor be it '06 , 270W or 280 Rem . Plus he's got all the tools , lathe , etc. I believe he do a good job & be cheaper than others . Now if I wanted a 308W , 7mm Mag , 300 Win Mag etc he already has them . Would have to open bolt face or buy a bolt body for the mag calibers that I really have no use for . Added plus is I have another '06 Springfield '03 Sporter with a 4 grove 1942 Rem barrel that's my Cast Bullet gun , so having a 270 or 280 wouldn't hurt my feelings . Also have a 358W built on a Model 70 action with a Douglas # 4 barrel so no need for a 35 Whelen or 338-06 .

[dk17hmr]

I have a Wilson barrel machined by raggedhole barrels in Nevada, its setup as a Remage and chambered in 25-06 Ackley Improved. It is an absolute hammer, running 100gr Barnes TSX at 3500 fps it has shot several sub 5" groups at 800 yards.

Probably my best cheap barrel.

If your going to rebarrel you might as well use a good barrel blank, if you are going to use a take off you might as well just buy a new rifle because the price will be comparable.

280 Remington is an excellent hunting round if your looking for something different than an 06. I have used a 280 mountain rifle to kill several elk and deer.

[EDG]

New Rem 700 take off barrels in both .270 and .30-06 are very common and very cheap.

[Texas by God]

Or a take off .243, .260, 7-08, or .308. Throat them out and use that long action. Just a thought.

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[just bill]

If a 300 win mag interests you, PM me.
Bill

[pertnear]

For a hunting rifle, go the take-off barrel route. I bought a Win 670 .30-06 (think Win mod 70 ADL) for $150 with a ringed barrel. I bought a Win XTR .270 take-off barrel on gun broker for $40 shipped. My local gunsmith unscrewed the old & screwed on the new for $25. I was lucky & the barrel writing lined up for a good match. I picked a good basic load with H4350 & the first group was 3/4". I was more than pleased!

FWIW YMMV...

[Budzilla 19]

IT&D Custom Guns in Minerva, Ohio sells take off Remington 700 barrels for cheap! Google them,call them up, and they will fix you up! ( and no, I don’t work for them!) bought several barrels from them and am verrryyy satisfied with the products! Example; .308 Win. 700 Sendero barrel unfired,$98 shipped to Louisiana ! Can’t beat it. Just my .02

[B R Shooter]

Wilson is a bulk barrel seller, they don't sell individual barrels. The problem with factory Remington barrels is the chamber, not so much with the rest of the barrel. On some, the chamber isn't any where close to being in line with the bore. Some come out good, as yours did. It's a luck thing. Any of the aftermarket barrels will give hunting performance and better. Aside from the big names, Shaw, A&B make and chamber barrels that will match or beat factory performance.

[Hardcast416taylor]

A less expensive, yet a good shooting barrel job, is E.R. Shaw for a re-do.Robert

[Texas by God]

A less expensive, yet a good shooting barrel job, is E.R. Shaw for a re-do.Robert+1 on ER Shaw.

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[Budzilla 19]

Got a couple E.R. Shaw barrels myself, just giving my opinion on costs as opposed to custom barrels, that’s all! While we talking barrels, don’t forget Shilen. Got a blueprinted Rem. 700 SA benchrest gun with a Shilen barrel. It will shoot. Good luck however you decide to go.

[roysha]

It's a 1973 vintage & has been shot a bunch . I've always seated bullets out to 3.400 OAL with 150 & 165's as that's where she shoots best . Gun still groups good as ever but barrel is fouling worse & worse . I clean with a regular solvent first & then 5 - 6 passes with Sweets to remove all the copper . As I stated first 15 rounds are as good as its ever shot , but after that it's a shotgun not a rifle . Yes I was speaking about Wilson Arms barrel as Cooper uses them on their high $$$ rifles . Rifle has been scoped for years , I took the factory sights off & put plug screws in their place . If I am able to get a brand new / very lightly used factory takeoff I'd jump on it . Have a local guy who builds all kinds of match / long range rifles & folks bring him brand new 700's still in the box for him to build on , so I'm hoping he can come up a suitable donor be it '06 , 270W or 280 Rem . Plus he's got all the tools , lathe , etc. I believe he do a good job & be cheaper than others . Now if I wanted a 308W , 7mm Mag , 300 Win Mag etc he already has them . Would have to open bolt face or buy a bolt body for the mag calibers that I really have no use for . Added plus is I have another '06 Springfield '03 Sporter with a 4 grove 1942 Rem barrel that's my Cast Bullet gun , so having a 270 or 280 wouldn't hurt my feelings . Also have a 358W built on a Model 70 action with a Douglas # 4 barrel so no need for a 35 Whelen or 338-06 .

If you are actually getting your barrel copper free with that few patches, you have one of the slickest barrels I have ever heard of. Even my very best match barrels take 10-12 patches of Sweets after a string of 40+ shots. I'm wondering if you are having a bit of copper fouling towards the muzzle that is not being completely removed. I have a 17 REM that exhibits the exact same thing you are describing and it is the fouling in the last 3-4 that inches of the barrel that is the culprit.

[M-Tecs]

Sweets is great on copper but not too much on carbon. Fouling tends to build up in layers. Wipe Out does both. Until you get all the layers you can have issues like you described.

[boatbum101]

First I clean with bore solvent to get rid of carbon fouling . Then I have to do 6 to 8 applications of Sweets . I throughly coat bore & let it soak 10 mins . Then patch the Sweets out & follow with bore solvent to kill the Sweets . Have to do this 6 - 8 times . Once copper is removed , 3 wet patches with bore solvent , patch dry & followed by 2 oily patches to coat bore . Next time out run 2 dry patches to remove oil left in bore . So it's taking 2 - 3 hours to clean & decopper existing barrel . Anyway found & bought 2 factory takeoffs from 700 SF riles . Both stainless & 24" . Was able to borescope both & still have reamer marks in the throats so they aint been shot much . One in 270 & other in 30/06 . 2 Sendero takeoffs for $ 130 .