Ruger Old Army

[shell70634]

I bought a ANIB Ruger Old Army revolver yesterday. It's unfired but came with Pyrodex P, .457 balls, lubed felt wads, caps, and a brass powder measure. It didn't come with a manual but I found that online. And I've read alot, here and elsewhere on the net.
Questions: Should I grease the chamber even with lubed wads? What is my range of loads? Is 25 gr of P or FFFg correct? Does accuracy change with powder adjustments? Do I wait until I feel loading resistance to stop shooting and clean? Would polishing the cylinder walls before shooting be beneficial?

The gun is blued except for the handle frame, which is painted I think, maybe duracoat type stuff. There are some imperfections in the paint from the factory that makes it unattractive. Would the handle frame be aluminum? Maybe I could strip it and powder coat.

I hope I didn't start ANOTHER addiction.

Shelly

[rodwha]

Did you get the nipple wrench too? If not a 3/16 nutdriver works perfectly, which is what I did. Same with a ratchet.

Greasing the chambers just makes a mess from what I've read, though I've come across a couple of guys on forums who make their lube much more stiff and claim it stays put better. But if you use a wad there's no real reason to use over ball lube also. Lube wasn't even used in these types of guns then when using a ball. But then they also weren't shooting them as much at one time.

I'm not sure what the lowest range one can go without using some sort of filler/wad. I never went below 25 grns of energetic powder as my guns are intended for hunting and below that there's just not much power to make me feel comfortable. With that in mind my guns are quite possibly more accurate than what I've found as I worked from there on up and found what was more accurate. My Ruger told me it likes 35 grns of 3F with every projectile I've used, though I don't recall the charge I used when shooting Kaido's 240 grn bullets. Initially I was using Triple 7 which is much more compressible (Pyrodex compresses fairly well too) and found 45 grns was near max with a ball. I had to pull my ball when I tried that with real black powder. The powder measure I use is an adjustable rifle measure. It seems to be set for 2F measurements which is fairly typical. When I measure my black powder load and then weigh it (Olde Eynsford) it weighs about 3 grns more. So my load is 38 grns in reality.

Accuracy most certainly changes by varying the powder charge.

I use Gatofeo's #1 lube (an authentic late 1800's lube easily and cheaply made) and find my gun just keeps running. I wipe the exterior down a bit here and there just because but it has never begun to bind up. There's a ferrule at the end of the cylinder that keeps powder residue away from the base pin. Maybe eventually it would begin to bind but I've shot as many as maybe 10 cylinders without issues. Using a good lube helps keep the accuracy as well as it keeps th fouling softer in the barrel itself.

It sounds as though you may have an older model with an aluminum grip frame.

You most likey began another addiction I'm afraid. Will it stay with revolvers? Go on to include muzzleloading pistols? There's a revolving carbine made from the Remington. Or there's a tremendous variance of muzzleloaders. Maybe you'll eventually find flintlocks intriguing. Match type rifles that shoot 1000 yds? I have 3 guns and need about 10 more at the least...

[45 Dragoon]

Rodwha is correct!
There's no such thing as too much black powder or any of the substitutes. Find what your revolver likes and you're good to go! The ROA has a gas ring or bushing so all day shooting should be the norm (a little Mobile 1 grease on the cylinder pin will keep it easy!!).
Don't forget to lock the cylinder pin when shooting, it will bend.

Mike

[rodwha]

Rodwha is correct!
There's no such thing as too much black powder or any of the substitutes. Find what your revolver likes and you're good to go! The ROA has a gas ring or bushing so all day shooting should be the norm (a little Mobile 1 grease on the cylinder pin will keep it easy!!).
Don't forget to lock the cylinder pin when shooting, it will bend.

Mike

Oh, good point Mike! Forgot that one. I bent mine the first trip out! Luckily it wasn't too bad and I was able to bend it back straight enough. I looked and found there were no replacement parts back then (someone had someone else make a run of some - costly I'm sure).

[GEOMETRIC]

I strongly suspect, but can't document, the Ruger Old Army is made of the same steel they use on their "Black Hawk" revolvers. They will withstand any BP charge you can get in the cylinder with ease. The trouble with the substitutes is they are hard to light. I prime the load with a little "FFFFG" when I want to be absolutely sure it will go bang.

[Outpost75]

I strongly suspect, but can't document, the Ruger Old Army is made of the same steel they use on their "Black Hawk" revolvers. They will withstand any BP charge you can get in the cylinder with ease. The trouble with the substitutes is they are hard to light. I prime the load with a little "FFFFG" when I want to be absolutely sure it will go bang.

This is true, same steel, but not heat treated, as 4140LS is much more strong than necessary even with annealed. I was present at the factory when Old Army's were being proofed and they weren't shooting black or Pyrodex in them....

[rking22]

I bought several lbs of 777 at Walmart at 5$ a can. Cap is 80% on lighting it off. Personally wish I'd left the stuff there, but I couldn't pass up a deal. It goes 100% with a pinch of fff underneath a cylinder full of 777 and RB. 35gr fff shoots best in mine topped with wad and rb.

[kaiser]

Shell - great pistols, congrats! I've found that 35grs with Pyro "P" or FFFg Triple 7 with a "wonder wad" (no grease) and a "ball" is the most accurate of loads in my Old Army. I also have a .45 Colt conversion cylinder that shoots 6.0gr of Red Dot load behind a 255grSWC shooting to the same POA. What a "hoot-to-shoot" and what a well made pistol that Ruger made!

[rodwha]

I've never had an issue igniting Pyrodex P or RS, or 3F T7 in any of my guns. I've used Rem #11's (just one tin with Pyrodex), CCI #11 mags for a few tins as these didn't fit well either needing two strikes often, and Rem #10's for hundreds of shots without issue ever. But these days I use mostly 3F Olde Eynsford and a little 3F T7.

[fcvan]

I haven't shot a Ruger OA in 40 years but it gave me the bug to buy a percussion revolver. CVA 1858 copy has many happy rounds down range. It liked 30 grains of Pyrodex with grease to prevent chain fires, never had one. I bought a Lee round ball mold, a conical mold (200rn), and I found a HP conical that was sitting on a shelf in a BP mountain man shop. It had been there since the 1970s and was marked $12.95 so I couldn't pass it up.

One of the old timers taught me to load 25gr of Pyrodex, top the cylinder with corn meal (give the cylinder a quick spin to reduce evenly) and seat the ball flush with the cylinder face. It shot like 30gr, helped blow out some of the carbon, and prevented chain fires. Lubed conical boolits need no corn meal. The CVA was inexpensive ($100 at the time) and very accurate. I could keep 6 in the spade of the ace card at 21 feet all day long. Good times!

[ShooterAZ]

Congrats on your "new" ROA. I love mine. My favorite load is 35 grains (by volume) of Goex 3F, with an ox-yoke 45 cal wad and a .457 round ball. Mine was NIB also, but I did buy new nipples from Track of the Wolf. They are #11 nipples, but Remington #10 caps are a perfect fit for them. It's superbly accurate and fun as heck to shoot. I mostly use a blend of olive oil/beeswax to top the cylinders to keep the fouling soft. In winter I mix in a little Bore Butter to keep it a little softer. I use STP on the cylinder pin, and make sure to lightly grease the nipple threads. Both the Lee and RCBS .457 RB molds have been excellent. Enjoy!

[shell70634]

Thanx for all the info. Plan on trying it out tomorrow with BP first, then Pyrodex.
Haven't even fired it and now I'm thinking about new molds. This is the most expensive forum I have ever been on.

Shelly

[rodwha]

Don't get into an ultralight backpacking forum then!

What kind of molds are you considering?

Oh, be certain to clean your gun once you get home. If for some reason you just don't have the time use some form of oil. Swab it liberally down the barrel, in the chambers, along the exterior and in the interior as best as you can. WD-40 would probably work just as well.

I was told to use Ballistol, which I use and love, and tested it by leaving two pistols in my humid summertime Texas garage for a couple of days and it works.

[shell70634]

Don't get into an ultralight backpacking forum then!

ZERO percent chance of that happening. I'm trying to forget all the heavyweight backpacking I did.

[rodwha]

ZERO percent chance of that happening. I'm trying to forget all the heavyweight backpacking I did.

That's what I did until the ole lady taught me something. I was dumb but determined!

I'm curious what molds or designs you are considering.

[winelover]

Pyrodex "P" is all I use in my ROA. Approximately 35 grains, by volume.....about what will fill the cylinder, with felt wad and ball. Use Remington #10 caps, never had a ignition issue. I found that the CCI #11 do not fit well and small pieces will occasionally, break off, and tie up the cylinder. In Arkansas, we are required to use conicals for deer hunting. I load the 200 grain Lee conical with the same charge but instead of a felt wad, under the bullet, a OxYoke "lube cookie" goes over it.

Winelover

[shell70634]

Molds considered so far are the Lee 90384 220 gr and the Lee REAL 200 gr. They're inexpensive. I really don't know enough about cap and ball to make a decision yet. I will probably just buy some different design boolits to play with before I buy molds.

Shelly

[shell70634]

I shot it today. 28.3 gr FFFg grouped about 6 inches at 18 yards. Same volume Pyrodex P felt hotter and grouped about the same. Bumped it up to 35.8 gr FFFg and grouped about 4 inches. I'm not a good pistol shooter.

Stripped it down for cleaning. Made 2 mistakes:
1. don't do it on a deck with 1/2 inch gaps between the boards. I was holding over a plastic square tub but the cylinder lock spring got away from me. Luckily it didn't fall in a crack
2. I put all the parts in the tub with hot water and soap. When I removed the frame and barrel, there was an ugly scratch thru the bluing. I should have cleaned it separately.

It was great fun to shoot. I love the smell of BP.

Shelly

[rodwha]

Nice!

I'm not a great shooter either. I get 3-3.5" groups with whatever projectile I use at 15 yds shooting in a sort of Weaver-like stance.